Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Peter, thanks for a photo update, it was much needed...

Shawn, could you elaborate a bit on ReefDragons post (on the part about GAC usage and TOC removal without the skimmer), as it interests me greatly.

Sorry for not quoting the post, i thought it would clutter the thread too much as it is very long.

As usual, great job guys!

Dainius

ReefDragon's comments are in relation to a specific field he is in. It all sound accurate to me. If we were talking about specific applications to equipment selection than I can elaborate. In our case, we haven't abandoned the skimmer at all, as we are still doing modifications. We are investigating the idea of shutting it down at night, along with the ozone and refugium in order to strike a balance between feeding and filtering. As I stated earlier, skimmerless tanks tend to look a little yellow and nutrient rich.

The problem with so called "natural systems", is they swing too far towards chaos. I think a truly natural system needs some help striking a balance. This can be achieved by more diverse organisms and respective zones. It is my personal opinion that these zones should be somewhat specialized and sized accordingly. There should be sand beds and reef rubble zones that are free of sediment and located in dark areas for benthic invertebrates. There should be cryptic zones for sponges and other non-photosynthetic reef residents. There should also be carbon rich anaerobic zones for denitrification and phosphate removal. Our mangrove wall introduces a new vertical wall of filtration and assimilation, and stepping up efficiency of the refugium is always a good practice. I'm hoping that monitoring our refugium can prove that it is best to shut it down at night during photorespiration.

If you are interested specifically in carbon in reefs, then this article will be of interest. I'm the guy with the crazy ideas, not the crazy scientist :)

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/8/aafeature3
 
That I am sure of!!! And of course I lost my link to Peter's car photos when I switched iPhones so I can't even try to snoop and figure it out!:spin2:

Maybe you should snoop in a certain persons facebook page for espionage photos. I think I still have that camera shoe :)
 
ReefDragon's comments are in relation to a specific field he is in. It all sound accurate to me. If we were talking about specific applications to equipment selection than I can elaborate. In our case, we haven't abandoned the skimmer at all, as we are still doing modifications. We are investigating the idea of shutting it down at night, along with the ozone and refugium in order to strike a balance between feeding and filtering. As I stated earlier, skimmerless tanks tend to look a little yellow and nutrient rich.

The problem with so called "natural systems", is they swing too far towards chaos. I think a truly natural system needs some help striking a balance. This can be achieved by more diverse organisms and respective zones. It is my personal opinion that these zones should be somewhat specialized and sized accordingly. There should be sand beds and reef rubble zones that are free of sediment and located in dark areas for benthic invertebrates. There should be cryptic zones for sponges and other non-photosynthetic reef residents. There should also be carbon rich anaerobic zones for denitrification and phosphate removal. Our mangrove wall introduces a new vertical wall of filtration and assimilation, and stepping up efficiency of the refugium is always a good practice. I'm hoping that monitoring our refugium can prove that it is best to shut it down at night during photorespiration.

If you are interested specifically in carbon in reefs, then this article will be of interest. I'm the guy with the crazy ideas, not the crazy scientist :)

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/8/aafeature3


Thank you for your insight Shawn,

Sorry for a little off topic (regarding size in scope). I am interested in skimmerless application for a small volume (lets say 50 gal.).

Few questions that i have:

1. Can GAC and GFO substitute the skimmer for a purpose of achieving ULNS?
2. Can GAC if used in a dedicated reactor successfully bind and remove yellowing agents from the water?
3. Can GAC and GFO be used as a substitution for a refugium regarding solely the removal of nitrate/phosphate?
4. If the questions above are answered positively, what would you see as the best way to setup the sump considering that there will be no refugium and skimmer. I mean what is the best configuration and sequence of reactors, will some kind of mechanical filtration be required etc.?

Once again, sorry for the off topic.

Dainius
 
Thank you for your insight Shawn,

Sorry for a little off topic (regarding size in scope). I am interested in skimmerless application for a small volume (lets say 50 gal.).

Few questions that i have:

1. Can GAC and GFO substitute the skimmer for a purpose of achieving ULNS?
2. Can GAC if used in a dedicated reactor successfully bind and remove yellowing agents from the water?
3. Can GAC and GFO be used as a substitution for a refugium regarding solely the removal of nitrate/phosphate?
4. If the questions above are answered positively, what would you see as the best way to setup the sump considering that there will be no refugium and skimmer. I mean what is the best configuration and sequence of reactors, will some kind of mechanical filtration be required etc.?

Once again, sorry for the off topic.

Dainius

Nothing of this nature is off topic......in fact quite timely as we are planning the setup of a small 120gal hospital tank that will not have any skimmer or refugium as part of the protocol for a true ICU environment. Mr. Wilson will be more appropriate to answer your question as I remain far too much of a novice for anything useful.

Peter
 
Looks like this guy is in the Wilson's bar. Is he going into the display? How is he going to compete for food?

You are right....they are in the Wilson's Bar and they will stay there. The tank is just the right size and we can control the light and flow should we decide to breed them. I'm pretty sure they would never survive in the display tank because of flow and competition. Again the Wilson's Bars are turning out to be a great tourist attraction as we hoped from the beginning. It makes for very interesting distractions for kids along with the Scorpion fish. Adults find them equally as fascinating.

Peter
 
The blue face hasnt decimated any of the sponges or softies yet?

The Blue Face Angel or 'DOG' as I call him has certainly shown an interest in the orange sponge but has not shown any interest whatsoever for the blue sponge. Mr. Wilson points out that the Blue Sponge is toxic and probably has a normal lifespan expectancy as a result. The orange sponge has taken a bit of a beating but interestingly does not show damage to the sponge beyond slowly getting smaller.


Peter
 
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I'm not sure if this has been discussed yet or not but is this seahorse in the main tank? With hungry anemones and corals?
 
Bongo Shrimp, This is from a Peter a few posts up.

they are in the Wilson's Bar and they will stay there. The tank is just the right size and we can control the light and flow should we decide to breed them. I'm pretty sure they would never survive in the display tank because of flow and competition. Peter
 
Mr Wilson since you give such expert advice I got a question for you. I water changes necessary on on any marine system? If one has to have the best regarding biological filteration and supplement additives to the tank such as trace elements. Im a firm believer in doing water changes. In one of the south African forums a guy told me he did not one in 8 years. The other guy say he supplements additives instead of doing water changes.

Are you sure you don't want to talk about a less sensitive subject like religion or politics? :)

In my opinion water changes are good for the following purposes, in order of importance/effectiveness.

- removing detritus
- reducing/diluting secondary metabolites (algae & coral toxins)
- reducing/diluting heavy metals, or what we call trace elements in the aquarium hobby
- reducing/diluting vitamins
- reducing/diluting nitrogen (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)
- reducing/diluting phosphate
- reducing/diluting bacteria
- reducing/diluting TOC

Water changes are limited by the percentage you exchange. A 10% water change removes 10% of the "bad stuff". The exception to this is detritus removal, if you are vacuuming the substrate, blasting out rock work and vacuuming the sump. Water changes do not effectively replenish water chemistry, as it is limited by the same percentage issue. In other words, a 10% water change only assures that 10% of the total water volume has the right proportions of calcium, carbonates, magnesium, and all the other "good stuff". While it is nice to remove some of the bad stuff, filtration devices are more efficient and calcium reactors and chemical dosing assures that 100% of the water has the proper water chemistry (good stuff).

Water changes can cause harm if they aren't carried out diligently. Some of the negative aspects of water changes are...

- reduction of pro-biotics (bacteria & plankton)
- introduction of impurities via source water, salt mix, mixing tools or hose
- introduction of excess trace elements and vitamins from salt mix
- temperature fluctuation
- salinity fluctuation
- PH, KH, calcium, magnesium etc. shock from bad salt mix
- classified/non-homogenous salt mix due to partial bucket or bag use
- old, clumped/compromised salt mix
- exposure of corals to atmospheric air
- partially dissolved salt mix
- poorly aerated salt mix
- accidental overfilling system
- accidentally over-draining system
- sand bed disturbance releasing hydrogen sulphide or depleting DSB infauna (beneficial organisms)

The main issue with water changes is they need to be calibrated to the demand. If you have "x" amount of nutrients building up in your system, then you need to do water changes according to that demand. A 10% water change will reduce your 20ppm nitrate down to 18ppm, but your residual nitrate accumulation may be at a faster rate than your weekly or monthly water changes. We aren't talking about a static amount that you can slowly chip away at, unless you have filtration devices and nutrient export of other sorts to make up the difference. If that is the case, water changes may not be necessary, and they are clearly the most expensive and least effective method of nutrient export.

We know that zero nitrates and phosphates can be maintained without water changes through carbon dosing, DSB, GFO and refugia to name a few. We also know that water chemistry can be maintained without water changes, and that there is an excess not a deficit of trace elements. Why add trace elements (heavy metals) when we statistically have too many? Most reef tanks don't require physical removal of detritus, including many of the tanks that receive major and frequent water changes. This only leaves secondary metabolites as an agent that we need to export. It is possible that this is enough justification for water changes, but it is equally possible that they are removed more efficiently through UV, ozone, protein skimming, mechanical filtration, mangrove trees, macro algae, carbon, bacterial assimilation, biological assimilation by micro organisms and coral, or simply time.

In evaluating any procedure you must first establish what you are trying to accomplish and why you are doing so. If water changes offer something that you are not getting with your current regimen, and you feel there is a demand in the first place, then by all means do so. On the other hand, if you feel that your application has all of these criteria covered and see no need for adding trace elements & vitamins, then water changes may no be a cost effective method of maintaing your reef.

The bigger the tank, the less you rely on water changes, and vice versa. A reef tank of 50 gallon or less, can be maintained with major weekly water changes at a lower cost than purchasing UV, ozone, calcium reactor, dosing systems, a refugium and mechanical filter. You can reinvest the capital and operational costs into a good source water filter, salt, and a water changing system. Once you get over 200 gallons, water changes are less appealing.

This doesn't mean you can stop doing water changes without consequence. Many people claim that their tanks look better after water changes. If you have a good system and are confident that it can be somewhat self sustaining, then slowly reduce water change frequency or volume. If you see negative repercussions, then resume water changes as before.
 
Peter I am very happy for you, you have a lot of nice fish and corals but I belive your tank deserves a lot more animals.
I thing you should have an import just for your tank.
Maybe from Indonesia or directly from a large international wholesaler. I am sure Shawn has some ideas. Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.

I still have the fish that I promise you, is healthy and in very good shape.


Is the black one:

2qalmab.jpg



I must find a way to send it, maybe mr.wilson has some ideas.


Andy :beer:
Andy the fish looks incredible!!!! I finally got a chance to talk to Mr.Wilson about the best way to get the fish here. He has to be very carefully prepared for the long flight which Mr. Wilson has assured me you know how to do. Then you need to send him and get a weigh bill number so I can track him to the Toronto Destination. Mr. Wilson has offered to help me with the arrival process and paper work at this end when you are ready. I am finally in a position where I can offer him a good home with a decent standard of living! Mr. Wilson ran a number of tests on water quality and I must say I don't think it could be better. I am looking forward to seeing your generous gift in the tank. By the way Andy, does he have a name yet?

You are right, if I try and populate the display tank with frags, I should have it filled in two hundred and fourteen years. I still haven't found a good solution yet but I think the best way to get entire colonies intact will be from the source in indonesia. I have not seen anything from the local fish stores that comes anywhere close to what I need to get me started. One possibility would be for me to go to LA which appears to be the gateway to the North American marketplace and hand pick from a special order. There really is 50 feet of seascape to fill as both sides of the tank are visible and useful to spectators. If I do a close inspection it takes me a full hour to work my way around the tank and as Mr. Wilson will tell you I still miss half the details. The fish room can take another hour on top of that.

One way or another I am going to have to get a big order. When will you be ready to stock your tank Andy, perhaps we might have a joint buy.

I am still looking for the pictures from Orlando. For some reason I have been having difficulty finding them. I forget where and which machine I used to store them. Hang in there, I will find them ......soon I hope.

Peter
 
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