imcosmokramer
New member
thank you
Cosmo's 75G Build Thread
- Thread starter imcosmokramer
- Start date
thank you
imcosmokramer
New member
Right now, this is my setup: I have my tank, with a sump in the stand. I have the ATO to the right of the stand, and then a calcium reactor on the floor next to it.
What I am planning on doing is adding a stand to the right of the existing stand, a larger sump that will house a new skimmer (Euro-Reef CS135) and a calcium reactor, return chamber with a new pump (Eheim 1262) which will be quieter and hopefully won't add to much heat, and a larger refugium. I will then remove the existin sump and replace it with an ATO reservoir. I will mount a new controller (either an ACIII or Apex) on in the corner, and will be able to hide/mount all of the wires/cords.
I'm also adding a frag tank on the new stand and will be T-ed off from the return to the main tank, and then returned back to the sump.
Any suggestions/ideas will be much appreciated.
What I am planning on doing is adding a stand to the right of the existing stand, a larger sump that will house a new skimmer (Euro-Reef CS135) and a calcium reactor, return chamber with a new pump (Eheim 1262) which will be quieter and hopefully won't add to much heat, and a larger refugium. I will then remove the existin sump and replace it with an ATO reservoir. I will mount a new controller (either an ACIII or Apex) on in the corner, and will be able to hide/mount all of the wires/cords.
I'm also adding a frag tank on the new stand and will be T-ed off from the return to the main tank, and then returned back to the sump.
Any suggestions/ideas will be much appreciated.
tazzmanian123
Premium Member
Always running out of room to, I know how you feel.
imcosmokramer
New member
The reactor has a reaction chamber which is 6"x18" (21" overall height),
it's an Aquatic Systems Design CaRx 6.18.1
Marc, thank you!
Do you think I can set up a small tank to be used as a q tank for new corals as follows:
A tank that is 15x15x15 that is plumbed into the new sump with (I would have a powerhead, lights and a heater waiting). The tank would not be running at all times. When I get new corals, I would fill the tank up with new saltwater, then open the T on my return so that it is now "in line". I would let the tank run for a few hours or a day to make sure that the water from the tank has fully integrated with the fresh saltwater. I would then turn off the return from this tank and would add the new corals to it (after dipping them in Revive), then dose the tank with interceptor for 6 hours (do your whole routine). Once I am confident that the corals are "clean", I would move them over to the display tank, and simply drain the water out of the tank. This would essentially do a 12g water change (assuming I keep that size) except for the "new" water that would be drained out. Although, I suppose I could first fill the qt with tank water, then close off the return, then add fresh water to the sump.
What do you think?
jb61264
New member
Maroon Clowns are my favorite...that is so cool that you've been rearing them from birth...did you get them from someone else or did you also breed them from other maroons?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15022875#post15022875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tazzmanian123
Have a scooter blenny in 75g. & all fish except clowns from 55g are moving over. Yellow tang, 6-line, & 2 cardinal fish. Clowns love the zenia, so a couple stocks of zenia & false clowns over to 40g. in garage. Have a pair of maroon clowns that I have been rearing since their birth, & a yellow watchman, blue hippo tang, still to small, but growing, going to 80g. setup.
imcosmokramer
New member
Interesting, what if it's an independent loop. So I can turn it on, fill the tank, then turn off the pump and the two ball valves (return/drain). Or should I be worried that some water may "leak back" through it. Is that what you said you would be uncomfortable with?
imcosmokramer
New member
Alright, so the way I see it. In the beginning, the tank would be "clean", so as I hook it up to the system, I would only be filling it up with water from the system. I would then remove the pump/feed, dip then qt the corals as described, then discard the qt water. Once the water is discarded, the tank is kept dry until it is used again, so there is no way for the "dirty" water to ever go back into the system. The advantage you have is that your QT is always up. I just don't have a place to keep it up and out of the way.
I guess now that I think of it this way, it's no different than just taking old water from the system and pouring into a remote tank, since they are never really connected. Not as "sexy" as I first proposed, but probably safer.
I guess now that I think of it this way, it's no different than just taking old water from the system and pouring into a remote tank, since they are never really connected. Not as "sexy" as I first proposed, but probably safer.
Bill14
Member
I'm looking forward to seeing the vision of your new sump setup come into being. I've considered doing something very similar when I plumb a frag tank into my setup, so I'm very interested in seeing how you do it.
As for your coral QT, I like your idea of keeping it remote and filling it as needed. No reason to take any risk with it plumbed into the system. You'd be one mistake away from contaminating your tank.
As for your coral QT, I like your idea of keeping it remote and filling it as needed. No reason to take any risk with it plumbed into the system. You'd be one mistake away from contaminating your tank.
imcosmokramer
New member
Bill - I was just so limited by the space I have under the 75. I use an Iwaki WMD40 as my return which is just huge, and takes up the rest of the space in the stand. I was going to switch to the Eheim 1262 anyways, so that I can free up some more room in the stand, however, things would just get to tight in there. I hope that this new setup will just make things more convenient and neat. The added water volume is a nice bonus, although it wasn't really part of the decision.
Basically this would allow me to keep my frags out of the DT and still keep them growing with good water params. I'm trying to decide what light I want over the frag tank. Probably just some T5's.
Basically this would allow me to keep my frags out of the DT and still keep them growing with good water params. I'm trying to decide what light I want over the frag tank. Probably just some T5's.
imcosmokramer
New member
I'm supposed to get the 1262 tomorrow, so I will test it with the current setup. The WMD40 is rated for 750gph and the 1262 is rated for 900. Ultimately, that "extra" power will go to the frag tank, for now, I'll just tone it down with a ball valve. I can't wait to see the difference an internal pump makes, noise-wise.
tazzmanian123
Premium Member
Hows pump working for you?
imcosmokramer
New member
I have not had the chance to go get the fittings I need to plumb it into my existing return line. I'll get to it this week end and update the thread. I am told that the frag tank is ready, and the sump should be completed soon. Once that and the stand are complete, it's game on.
purplereef
Active member
Hi imcosmo, can we get a shot of that awesome rainbow Monti you have? How is it growing for you?
imcosmokramer
New member
PR - I'll try to get a photo of it. It's not in a good place to photograph, but I'll be able to show you the size.
Here is the before:
Here is the before:
imcosmokramer
New member
thanks.
So, the frag is now in my frag tank with a 10k ushio and no actinics or blue supplements. (It looks really yellow/ugly, but again, this is only to show the size difference). I outlined the original frag size.
