Creature Morpheus - 3,000+ gallon multi-tank system (Canada)
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CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Display Tank Reinforcement - Proposed with Questions
Display Tank Reinforcement - Proposed with Questions
Evening All,
Main Display Tank Fabrication:
Trying to get down to the finalization on the details of the main 700g Vol/600g (wet) tank. There are a few things I am still trying to work out:
Making sure it fits through the door:
Had to tweak the irregular shape again when I double checked the maximum width (67") I could fit through my patio door wall and allowing for a little leeway making the unit no more than 65.5". Also looked at the proposed flow by the Vortechs and changing the right rear corner to match the left rear angled corner, it appears the flow would be better. So now it shall become an irregular 8-sided bow front without any 90 degree corners.
Concerns with long term Tank Reinforcement:
Another concern I have always had about a large tank which is the reinforcement and reliance on the silicone seams.
The manufacturer (Bow Valley Aquariums in Alberta Canada) has been building tanks since 1973 (over 35 years) and this configuration is a unique challenge. The custom design and specifications were mine and Bow Valley has been patient as the tank has gone through multiple revisions.
Care is being taken with different aspects:
- The glass panels are all being bevelled in another shop that specializes in bevelling. The bow front glass edges are pre-bevelled before bending
- the bow front glass bending is being done at another shop that specializes in bending and built a new custom mould for this tank. The display tank had to be sized to the maximum size of glass this company could bend in their kiln (102" with a final finish of 100" at an apex of a 8" bend).
- the bottom glass is double laminated
- the top perimeter shall have a 5" glass reinforcement
- the exterior overflow box is also oversized and an irregular shape; glass gussets have been added to support the underside of the external box.
- since the tank shall be fabricated and shipped about 1,900 miles (over 3,000 km), the tank shall sit for 30 days to allow the silicone to cure properly
- heavy duty special crating with lift points, as well as interior padding,
- the sub-straight of 1" plywood and 1" foam (to alleviate stress and cushion for shipping) is profiled and shall be the permanent base (shall not be removed on site) and slides onto the steel structure.
- A custom cart built just for the off load from the truck to move into the house and at the height of the permanent stand to facilitate the installation (tank dry weight shall be over 1,600-1,700 pounds).
- the floors shall be covered with two layers of additional plywood when rolling the tank into place
Reliance on Silicone seams:
However, even with the pre-cautions and design considerations, I am a large proponent of redundancy, especially of critical components. Therefore, I am cautious (or paranoid) of potential failure (hey I am forensic engineer who has been investigating failures in buildings and their systems for 20 years, and seen how things can go wrong even with the best of intentions). Have heard of many tanks leaking and having seam problems (even David Saxby's display tank as I understand) and the difficulty in trying to rectify after is a nightmare. As there shall be over 600 gallons (or about 5,000 pounds) of water straining to get out, glass and silicone, although work well together are not infallible, I desire to reinforce the main display tank on it bottom perimeter, vertical seamed corners and the top perimeter for long term performance. The intended or proposed ways for which I hope to achieve this includes:
Standard type quality fabrication:
utilizing an experienced manufacturer
allowing the factory installed silicone to cure before shipment
5" glass reinforcement around the top perimeter
doubled laminated bottom
black plastic euro bracing around the top and bottom and all vertical corners
Customizing Additional Reinforcement:
use of 1/8th inch rubber gasket material between the black plastic and all additional reinforcement for movement and minimize point stresses
bottom securement will nylon blocks anchored around the bottom perimeter into the plywood
at each vertical corner, custom 316 stainless steel 2" schedule 80 pipe that is lasered to match the exact angles of the glass; the bottom and top plates being anchored into the plywood and a top framework above
the top perimeter shall have a specially fabricated 3" x 3/8ths band with a welded 1" x 1" solid square bar that conforms to the shape of the tank; the front bow front profile shall also be bent to match; corners to be secured with corner plates and bolts (hidden within the vertical pipe corners)
the cross bracing (proposed at this time) shall be 3/8ths stainless steel rod, cut and threaded into the 1" x 1" ss band around the perimeter and to tensioning rings roughly midway in the tank.
Questions I have, Seeking Answers, Comments, Suggestions and/or Leads
There are more than a few concerns or thoughts I have, was wondering if anyone has had experience with or knows of someone who might have insight or knowledge that they could refer me to. Some of the questions are:
1) Does anyone have experience with stainless around the perimeter of their tanks?
There is particular interest in the connection joint, expansion and contraction of the stainless and its differential compared with the glass? There will be the black plastic and 1/8th rubber between the glass and the stainless.
2) How corrosive is the salt water to causing the stainless to rust, possible effecting the water quality?
I was thinking of possibly e-coating and powder coating the stainless rod for added erosion protection. Has someone done e-coating on the top frameworks around their tank?
My base stand shall be constructed out of mild steel and shall be e-coated for protection. Yet this stand shall not be exposed to any sump or direct salt water environment (will even be continually vented by a HRV).
Does anyone know of a "œquantitative" tension or recommended torque to the cross bracing rods for the top of an aquarium?
3) Are there any good existing perimeter reinforcement systems out there that I could look into? I would think there may be for rectangular tanks, but this tank is highly irregular in shape. Even so, I would appreciate any leads on existing systems or possibly to someone who has been creative on their tank.
4) If you have any comments or think I may have overlooked some things, please chime in.
Thanks in Advance - Joe :thumbsup:
Display Tank Reinforcement - Proposed with Questions
Evening All,
Main Display Tank Fabrication:
Trying to get down to the finalization on the details of the main 700g Vol/600g (wet) tank. There are a few things I am still trying to work out:
Making sure it fits through the door:
Had to tweak the irregular shape again when I double checked the maximum width (67") I could fit through my patio door wall and allowing for a little leeway making the unit no more than 65.5". Also looked at the proposed flow by the Vortechs and changing the right rear corner to match the left rear angled corner, it appears the flow would be better. So now it shall become an irregular 8-sided bow front without any 90 degree corners.
Concerns with long term Tank Reinforcement:
Another concern I have always had about a large tank which is the reinforcement and reliance on the silicone seams.
The manufacturer (Bow Valley Aquariums in Alberta Canada) has been building tanks since 1973 (over 35 years) and this configuration is a unique challenge. The custom design and specifications were mine and Bow Valley has been patient as the tank has gone through multiple revisions.
Care is being taken with different aspects:
- The glass panels are all being bevelled in another shop that specializes in bevelling. The bow front glass edges are pre-bevelled before bending
- the bow front glass bending is being done at another shop that specializes in bending and built a new custom mould for this tank. The display tank had to be sized to the maximum size of glass this company could bend in their kiln (102" with a final finish of 100" at an apex of a 8" bend).
- the bottom glass is double laminated
- the top perimeter shall have a 5" glass reinforcement
- the exterior overflow box is also oversized and an irregular shape; glass gussets have been added to support the underside of the external box.
- since the tank shall be fabricated and shipped about 1,900 miles (over 3,000 km), the tank shall sit for 30 days to allow the silicone to cure properly
- heavy duty special crating with lift points, as well as interior padding,
- the sub-straight of 1" plywood and 1" foam (to alleviate stress and cushion for shipping) is profiled and shall be the permanent base (shall not be removed on site) and slides onto the steel structure.
- A custom cart built just for the off load from the truck to move into the house and at the height of the permanent stand to facilitate the installation (tank dry weight shall be over 1,600-1,700 pounds).
- the floors shall be covered with two layers of additional plywood when rolling the tank into place
Reliance on Silicone seams:
However, even with the pre-cautions and design considerations, I am a large proponent of redundancy, especially of critical components. Therefore, I am cautious (or paranoid) of potential failure (hey I am forensic engineer who has been investigating failures in buildings and their systems for 20 years, and seen how things can go wrong even with the best of intentions). Have heard of many tanks leaking and having seam problems (even David Saxby's display tank as I understand) and the difficulty in trying to rectify after is a nightmare. As there shall be over 600 gallons (or about 5,000 pounds) of water straining to get out, glass and silicone, although work well together are not infallible, I desire to reinforce the main display tank on it bottom perimeter, vertical seamed corners and the top perimeter for long term performance. The intended or proposed ways for which I hope to achieve this includes:
Standard type quality fabrication:
utilizing an experienced manufacturer
allowing the factory installed silicone to cure before shipment
5" glass reinforcement around the top perimeter
doubled laminated bottom
black plastic euro bracing around the top and bottom and all vertical corners
Customizing Additional Reinforcement:
use of 1/8th inch rubber gasket material between the black plastic and all additional reinforcement for movement and minimize point stresses
bottom securement will nylon blocks anchored around the bottom perimeter into the plywood
at each vertical corner, custom 316 stainless steel 2" schedule 80 pipe that is lasered to match the exact angles of the glass; the bottom and top plates being anchored into the plywood and a top framework above
the top perimeter shall have a specially fabricated 3" x 3/8ths band with a welded 1" x 1" solid square bar that conforms to the shape of the tank; the front bow front profile shall also be bent to match; corners to be secured with corner plates and bolts (hidden within the vertical pipe corners)
the cross bracing (proposed at this time) shall be 3/8ths stainless steel rod, cut and threaded into the 1" x 1" ss band around the perimeter and to tensioning rings roughly midway in the tank.
Questions I have, Seeking Answers, Comments, Suggestions and/or Leads
There are more than a few concerns or thoughts I have, was wondering if anyone has had experience with or knows of someone who might have insight or knowledge that they could refer me to. Some of the questions are:
1) Does anyone have experience with stainless around the perimeter of their tanks?
There is particular interest in the connection joint, expansion and contraction of the stainless and its differential compared with the glass? There will be the black plastic and 1/8th rubber between the glass and the stainless.
2) How corrosive is the salt water to causing the stainless to rust, possible effecting the water quality?
I was thinking of possibly e-coating and powder coating the stainless rod for added erosion protection. Has someone done e-coating on the top frameworks around their tank?
My base stand shall be constructed out of mild steel and shall be e-coated for protection. Yet this stand shall not be exposed to any sump or direct salt water environment (will even be continually vented by a HRV).
Does anyone know of a "œquantitative" tension or recommended torque to the cross bracing rods for the top of an aquarium?
3) Are there any good existing perimeter reinforcement systems out there that I could look into? I would think there may be for rectangular tanks, but this tank is highly irregular in shape. Even so, I would appreciate any leads on existing systems or possibly to someone who has been creative on their tank.
4) If you have any comments or think I may have overlooked some things, please chime in.
Thanks in Advance - Joe :thumbsup:
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Proposed Top Reinforcement: Conceptual Image
Proposed Top Reinforcement: Conceptual Image
Here is an attempt at drawing a 3-d illustrative concept. As I am inexperienced with Googles Sketch Up software and am having difficulty getting use to it; the drawings are not great. Yet hopefully gives a visualization to what I am proposing.
Proposed Top Reinforcement: Conceptual Image
Here is an attempt at drawing a 3-d illustrative concept. As I am inexperienced with Googles Sketch Up software and am having difficulty getting use to it; the drawings are not great. Yet hopefully gives a visualization to what I am proposing.
I'm a welder by trade. Myself if I was doing it I would coat the stainless with some type of top coat. Stainless dosen't "Rust" but it does corrode. I know there's going to be someone on here thats going to say "but Rust is a corrosion" and yes they are right but talking to someone that probably dosen't deal with metal everyday...... It would probably not ever leach anything into the water but why chance it. Seems/are putting alot of money into this, whats the extra cost of getting it coated.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Coating Stainless Steel near Saltwater Enviromments
Coating Stainless Steel near Saltwater Enviromments
@mike536
Money is a major concern (as is with everyone I think)
As for doing this, I am way over budget and trying to scrap things together to do it. Yet the concerns mentioned earlier have me making the ss reinforcement an important necessity rather than option (not a place which I can or wish to skimp on). Most of the fabrication I will have to do myself with exceptions of special machining like the laser angled bevels of the vertical tubing and welding of the bow front top piece. If there are viable alternatives I am open to suggestions; just the style f the irregular tank does not lend itself to many options.
316 Stainless (where possible)
The steel selected is 316 stainless which has some resistance to corrosion, but not great, yet it is better than most and higher grades are cost prohibitive (even using this 316 ss pipe is too). When welded, the welds are highly susceptible to corroding in comparison with the bar stock and pipe.
Polishing:
After fabricating, I will be trying to polish the stainless steel to a brushed polish.
Coatings of Stainless Steel:
I am looking for suggestions with coatings used around saltwater? Those with first hand experience is appreciated.
E-coating I know would work best, but it is a black dull finish coat. To powder coat after the e-coat might be an option. Preference would be to find a clear coat after I polish the ss. I can spray clear lacquer but am unsure of adhesion, peeling and flaking near the salt water (especially once installed no way to re-treat or refinish the ss assembly.
Coating Stainless Steel near Saltwater Enviromments
@mike536
Money is a major concern (as is with everyone I think)
As for doing this, I am way over budget and trying to scrap things together to do it. Yet the concerns mentioned earlier have me making the ss reinforcement an important necessity rather than option (not a place which I can or wish to skimp on). Most of the fabrication I will have to do myself with exceptions of special machining like the laser angled bevels of the vertical tubing and welding of the bow front top piece. If there are viable alternatives I am open to suggestions; just the style f the irregular tank does not lend itself to many options.
316 Stainless (where possible)
The steel selected is 316 stainless which has some resistance to corrosion, but not great, yet it is better than most and higher grades are cost prohibitive (even using this 316 ss pipe is too). When welded, the welds are highly susceptible to corroding in comparison with the bar stock and pipe.
Polishing:
After fabricating, I will be trying to polish the stainless steel to a brushed polish.
Coatings of Stainless Steel:
I am looking for suggestions with coatings used around saltwater? Those with first hand experience is appreciated.
E-coating I know would work best, but it is a black dull finish coat. To powder coat after the e-coat might be an option. Preference would be to find a clear coat after I polish the ss. I can spray clear lacquer but am unsure of adhesion, peeling and flaking near the salt water (especially once installed no way to re-treat or refinish the ss assembly.
dave.m
Active member
Here's an RC thread of a fellow who used steel bars to reinforce his 1000 gallon rimless tank. I'd think he'd be the most experienced person around for questions on saltwater affecting stainless steel.
Dave.M
Dave.M
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Thanks Dave.m read the thread and sent a PM to him.
tgunn
Active member
Glad to see another large-scale build in Canada!
Questions about the HRVs:
1. What (if anything) do you plan to do to protect the fans from the salt-laden humid air you will be venting?
The reason I ask is on my old 140g tank I used a bathroom fan to pull air from the canopy of the tank and vent it into my fishroom (which had an intake vent for my household HRV). After a couple years of continual operation the fan seized up as it was literally a solid block of salt. I guess the salt spray from the surface turbulence in the tank got sucked up into the fan and killed it.
2. Do you know of a reasonable place to get blower fans for HRV type applications?
Thanks!
Tyler
Questions about the HRVs:
1. What (if anything) do you plan to do to protect the fans from the salt-laden humid air you will be venting?
The reason I ask is on my old 140g tank I used a bathroom fan to pull air from the canopy of the tank and vent it into my fishroom (which had an intake vent for my household HRV). After a couple years of continual operation the fan seized up as it was literally a solid block of salt. I guess the salt spray from the surface turbulence in the tank got sucked up into the fan and killed it.
2. Do you know of a reasonable place to get blower fans for HRV type applications?
Thanks!
Tyler
Haffs09
Member
SS references
SS references
These may help.
Specific to marine environments:
http://www.assda.asn.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=152
Good references:
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml
http://www.worldstainless.org/
SS references
These may help.
Specific to marine environments:
http://www.assda.asn.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=152
Good references:
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml
http://www.worldstainless.org/
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel
@Haffs Thanks for the links. They were a good reference and was finally able to get to read them this morning.
FASTENERS:
Was interesting about the fasteners and their different grades, which I had not previously realized how important their selection was.
STAINLESS GRADES:
Confirms the selection of 316 and some 304 being reasonable for the application.
The higher grades are not readily available and the cost prohibitive nature because of limited supply. make it economically not feasible. The references to "UNS S32304 (commonly known as 2304), UNS S31803 (2205) and UNS S32750 (2507)* and of these the most common is S31803.
With some of the properties of S31803 include:
- yield strength: twice that of 304 or 316;
- much higher resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion in seawater than 316; and
- twice the fatigue and corrosion fatigue strength of 316.
As recommended, "the key to obtaining optimum results from stainless steel in marine applications is the use of the appropriate stainless steel for the specific application."
I have been getting some quotes on stock 316/304 stainless for the reinforcement over the past few weeks. Will try and see what the actual difference of the S32750/S31803 SS if I can find a source distributor.
COATING:
On Friday I met up with a local Coral Farm gentleman and he highly recommended also that the stainless all be coated or there would be likely problems encountered.
So will be calling on that Permalac lacquer clear coating this week. Other than the manufacturer, I have not found many reviews of performance. Did send an email to reef_shadow who used it on his stainless, but have not heard back as he appears not to be online very often. Anyone else had experience with Permalac?
Stainless Steel
@Haffs Thanks for the links. They were a good reference and was finally able to get to read them this morning.
FASTENERS:
Was interesting about the fasteners and their different grades, which I had not previously realized how important their selection was.
STAINLESS GRADES:
Confirms the selection of 316 and some 304 being reasonable for the application.
The higher grades are not readily available and the cost prohibitive nature because of limited supply. make it economically not feasible. The references to "UNS S32304 (commonly known as 2304), UNS S31803 (2205) and UNS S32750 (2507)* and of these the most common is S31803.
With some of the properties of S31803 include:
- yield strength: twice that of 304 or 316;
- much higher resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion in seawater than 316; and
- twice the fatigue and corrosion fatigue strength of 316.
As recommended, "the key to obtaining optimum results from stainless steel in marine applications is the use of the appropriate stainless steel for the specific application."
I have been getting some quotes on stock 316/304 stainless for the reinforcement over the past few weeks. Will try and see what the actual difference of the S32750/S31803 SS if I can find a source distributor.
COATING:
On Friday I met up with a local Coral Farm gentleman and he highly recommended also that the stainless all be coated or there would be likely problems encountered.
So will be calling on that Permalac lacquer clear coating this week. Other than the manufacturer, I have not found many reviews of performance. Did send an email to reef_shadow who used it on his stainless, but have not heard back as he appears not to be online very often. Anyone else had experience with Permalac?
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
The Morphing Main Display Tank 700g (600g wet)
The Morphing Main Display Tank 700g (600g wet)
Tank Design Modifications:
The tank was slightly revised this past week for two main reasons:
(i) to fit through the patio door which has a maximum opening of 67.5"
(ii) by changing the rear right corner (angled similar to the rear left) and installing another panel of glass which the second Vortech MP60 shall be place, the flow pattern in the tank should be improved.
(iii) additionally there were minor adjustments to other sides to keep the water volume just over a 600 gallon water volume.
Considerations of the Steel Framework and Piping
Still have to determine the final locations of the bulkhead holes for production of the tank to be completed. One of the things that has to be finalized is the design structural supporting framework of the tank, plus the stainless steel reinforcement and upper hood framework too. The locations of members have to be located to not only avoid tank piping but have adequate clearances for installing the bulkhead fittings and running the piping through the floor system to the basement.
Tolerances:
There are challenges with this because the tolerance to the structure have to be very tight to the actual tank. The tank's irregularity and bow front curvature must be within 1/16th of an inch. As I am not familiar with the fabrication tolerances of glass bending, tank fabrication, I believe I must have to wait for the tank to arrive to template the actual tank before building/fabricating the base and top stainless perimeter reinforcement. I have been engineering and playing with the fine design details and how they all shall integrate, also trying to keep in mind material selection, properties, machining, welding and fastening and of course economic feasibility.
Top Reinforcement:
Earlier I showed possible a two component top band, but warpage due to welding is a concern, yet allows for threading in 1/2" SS rod possibly or flat bar stock. Am presently looking into using 3"x3"x1/2" angle for the top perimeter as an alternative. Trying also to find some others who may have constructed a stainless steel top reinforcement.
Thoughts and Comments
A rectangular tank would be much easier; its irregular shape excessively complicates things. Everyday the design rolls over and over in my mind trying to figure out a possible solution. I am not one who wants to re-invent the wheel, so open to suggestions or referrals to others who might have some experience related to this project.
The Morphing Main Display Tank 700g (600g wet)
Tank Design Modifications:
The tank was slightly revised this past week for two main reasons:
(i) to fit through the patio door which has a maximum opening of 67.5"
(ii) by changing the rear right corner (angled similar to the rear left) and installing another panel of glass which the second Vortech MP60 shall be place, the flow pattern in the tank should be improved.
(iii) additionally there were minor adjustments to other sides to keep the water volume just over a 600 gallon water volume.
Considerations of the Steel Framework and Piping
Still have to determine the final locations of the bulkhead holes for production of the tank to be completed. One of the things that has to be finalized is the design structural supporting framework of the tank, plus the stainless steel reinforcement and upper hood framework too. The locations of members have to be located to not only avoid tank piping but have adequate clearances for installing the bulkhead fittings and running the piping through the floor system to the basement.
Tolerances:
There are challenges with this because the tolerance to the structure have to be very tight to the actual tank. The tank's irregularity and bow front curvature must be within 1/16th of an inch. As I am not familiar with the fabrication tolerances of glass bending, tank fabrication, I believe I must have to wait for the tank to arrive to template the actual tank before building/fabricating the base and top stainless perimeter reinforcement. I have been engineering and playing with the fine design details and how they all shall integrate, also trying to keep in mind material selection, properties, machining, welding and fastening and of course economic feasibility.
Top Reinforcement:
Earlier I showed possible a two component top band, but warpage due to welding is a concern, yet allows for threading in 1/2" SS rod possibly or flat bar stock. Am presently looking into using 3"x3"x1/2" angle for the top perimeter as an alternative. Trying also to find some others who may have constructed a stainless steel top reinforcement.
Thoughts and Comments
A rectangular tank would be much easier; its irregular shape excessively complicates things. Everyday the design rolls over and over in my mind trying to figure out a possible solution. I am not one who wants to re-invent the wheel, so open to suggestions or referrals to others who might have some experience related to this project.
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Multiple Air Pumps (AL-120s)
Multiple Air Pumps (AL-120s)
Air Pumps:
Tomorrow I pick up my two air pumps (Alita AL-120s). Tried to find quality air pumps that would be able to run long term and perform against the demands of the 4-beckette skimmer, the moving bio-filter, plus several other pieces of equipment. The decision was to go with two smaller units than one larger one for several reasons: main one be redundancy for protection; more air flow generated by the two units; allows for better use on demand (e.g. if I turn off or down the skimmer one pump could also be shut down or because of the separation of tanks and equipment can have more flexibility of layout). Needed them to start trying to test and get my skimmer and bio-filter up and running as they will be placed in temporary service while curing about 1,200 pounds of rock. Will be able to experiment with them.
Curious if anyone else has used Alita air pumps or have rigged up multiple air pumps and manifold systems. Any advice?
Multiple Air Pumps (AL-120s)
Air Pumps:
Tomorrow I pick up my two air pumps (Alita AL-120s). Tried to find quality air pumps that would be able to run long term and perform against the demands of the 4-beckette skimmer, the moving bio-filter, plus several other pieces of equipment. The decision was to go with two smaller units than one larger one for several reasons: main one be redundancy for protection; more air flow generated by the two units; allows for better use on demand (e.g. if I turn off or down the skimmer one pump could also be shut down or because of the separation of tanks and equipment can have more flexibility of layout). Needed them to start trying to test and get my skimmer and bio-filter up and running as they will be placed in temporary service while curing about 1,200 pounds of rock. Will be able to experiment with them.
Curious if anyone else has used Alita air pumps or have rigged up multiple air pumps and manifold systems. Any advice?
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Some Images (air pumps, material gathering)
Some Images (air pumps, material gathering)
Air Pumps:
Here are the pair of Alita AL120s (heavy little suckers). Plugged it in, but would not want a pair of these running underneath a tank in living room, lol. Thinking I will place them in my cold cellar and drill a line through the wall and hook up a valved manifold for noise and because heat/ventilation is one of there worst enemies.
Now have to see about assembling my Bashsea 4-Beckette Skimmer and Bio-filter with them to see if one or both will be needed.
Other Materials:
Other materials I have been gathering have been cluttering up the garage, basement, crawl space and racks outside. Been purchasing union ball valves, fittings and pipe, even some pumps from Ebay, Craigslist and auctions in bulk lots, otherwise I doubt I could afford (when you purchase over time, it seems to hurt less). There are many things we can't avoid buying new (e.g. custom or specialized pumps, controllers, probes, etc.) or best requires the skill and expertise of others. Where possible I have tried to use used/recycled materials, or design/build ourselves. I got lucky a couple weeks ago and met someone who was cleaning out his shop before inventory and couldn't keep a bunch of new/used stuff around on his shelf, so bought a package deal of fittings, valves, pipes (schedule 80), some mag and VFD pumps (although I need to modify because they are stainless steel but would not stand up to the saltwalter environment) and commercial pump controllers, which I am going to be able to try some temporary set up and play with things to see how well they work out before selecting and/or purchasing my new ones for the main display tank.
These are 1-1/2" and 2" true union balls valves; not on the hunt for 1-1/2" and 2" diaphragm valves for balancing and throttling down flow.
Not sure why it turns the photograph. each of those boxes is full of sch 80 fittings, mostly 1" and 1-1/4". Lots yet to find at 1.5" and 2".
Have a lot of schedule 40 (white pipe left) for a planned irrigation system and collecting some grey Sch 80 pipe on the rack right. Elsewhere I have a my flexible PVC pipe stored. Rather collect it at good prices that running to HD and paying a premium on stuff.
Some Images (air pumps, material gathering)
Air Pumps:
Here are the pair of Alita AL120s (heavy little suckers). Plugged it in, but would not want a pair of these running underneath a tank in living room, lol. Thinking I will place them in my cold cellar and drill a line through the wall and hook up a valved manifold for noise and because heat/ventilation is one of there worst enemies.
Now have to see about assembling my Bashsea 4-Beckette Skimmer and Bio-filter with them to see if one or both will be needed.
Other Materials:
Other materials I have been gathering have been cluttering up the garage, basement, crawl space and racks outside. Been purchasing union ball valves, fittings and pipe, even some pumps from Ebay, Craigslist and auctions in bulk lots, otherwise I doubt I could afford (when you purchase over time, it seems to hurt less). There are many things we can't avoid buying new (e.g. custom or specialized pumps, controllers, probes, etc.) or best requires the skill and expertise of others. Where possible I have tried to use used/recycled materials, or design/build ourselves. I got lucky a couple weeks ago and met someone who was cleaning out his shop before inventory and couldn't keep a bunch of new/used stuff around on his shelf, so bought a package deal of fittings, valves, pipes (schedule 80), some mag and VFD pumps (although I need to modify because they are stainless steel but would not stand up to the saltwalter environment) and commercial pump controllers, which I am going to be able to try some temporary set up and play with things to see how well they work out before selecting and/or purchasing my new ones for the main display tank.
These are 1-1/2" and 2" true union balls valves; not on the hunt for 1-1/2" and 2" diaphragm valves for balancing and throttling down flow.
Not sure why it turns the photograph. each of those boxes is full of sch 80 fittings, mostly 1" and 1-1/4". Lots yet to find at 1.5" and 2".
Have a lot of schedule 40 (white pipe left) for a planned irrigation system and collecting some grey Sch 80 pipe on the rack right. Elsewhere I have a my flexible PVC pipe stored. Rather collect it at good prices that running to HD and paying a premium on stuff.
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
HELP on reducing photo size?
Seems my photos are way to big.
Suggestions on shrinking them for the posts?
Seems my photos are way to big.
Suggestions on shrinking them for the posts?
dave.m
Active member
It appears that you are serving up the images from your own web server. If you are not the programmer, the easiest way for you to manage the image size is to save them to a smaller size on your home PC before uploading them to your server. Usually a file size of about 20KB works well on the Internet.
But image size can also be controlled by additional programming on your server. Your programmer would then be the one who needs to do this for you. Basically what you need is an additional line of script that includes a re-size statement that your server will accept at the end of every HTML image link you create on other websites like RC.
Dave.M
But image size can also be controlled by additional programming on your server. Your programmer would then be the one who needs to do this for you. Basically what you need is an additional line of script that includes a re-size statement that your server will accept at the end of every HTML image link you create on other websites like RC.
Dave.M
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
Thanks Dave,
I am the one doing it (set up by someone else though).
I resized the images on my server to smaller ones, but the post did not change, so will do that to all future postings to help keep the file size/views down.
I am the one doing it (set up by someone else though).
I resized the images on my server to smaller ones, but the post did not change, so will do that to all future postings to help keep the file size/views down.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Easiest way to resize is to go into MS Paint and hit control-W which will bring up the resize window, you can then reduce it by an appropriate percentage (i'd go to 25% of the original size looking at the size I see)
Also be careful with PVC that's been out in the sun too long, it tends to get brittle.
Also be careful with PVC that's been out in the sun too long, it tends to get brittle.
CreativeGuy
Creature Morpheus ...
@sfsuphysics: Thanks,
The grey schedule 80 is only been out a few days and being moved inside shortly.
The white PVC for the sprinkler system and won't be used on the aquarium project.
The Flex and fittings are stored inside as well.
The grey schedule 80 is only been out a few days and being moved inside shortly.
The white PVC for the sprinkler system and won't be used on the aquarium project.
The Flex and fittings are stored inside as well.
dave.m
Active member
When you reloaded the images did you save them to different file names than the first upload? If so, you will have to edit the image links in your RC posts to reflect the new file names. You only have an hour or two to edit your RC posts so you'd better get to it.CreativeGuy said:
Dave.M
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