critique my DIY stand plz...
- Thread starter Devaji108
- Start date
Devaji108
New member
dont have access to jointer or planer. 
i watched a vid on youtube where they said glue does not make pocket holes any stronger..i'll see if i can find it.
yeah i can redo it. and just might. but the hole point of using the pocket jig was so i would not have to do that. guess maybe i should have just not bought it and made it wider from the get go..in the end its not that big of a deal just want it to be right.
if I make it wider tho the tank will not set on the back rim? there will be a 1" ply wood top so that might no be that much of an issue?
hmm i think i will try the hardwood corrnor supports beams. I am pretty sure that will work dont you guys? if not i will go smaller sump or just rebuilt it.
i watched a vid on youtube where they said glue does not make pocket holes any stronger..i'll see if i can find it.
yeah i can redo it. and just might. but the hole point of using the pocket jig was so i would not have to do that. guess maybe i should have just not bought it and made it wider from the get go..in the end its not that big of a deal just want it to be right.
if I make it wider tho the tank will not set on the back rim? there will be a 1" ply wood top so that might no be that much of an issue?
hmm i think i will try the hardwood corrnor supports beams. I am pretty sure that will work dont you guys? if not i will go smaller sump or just rebuilt it.
Devaji108
New member
another thought i am having after Apotack said was the spacing of the pocket holes...I just just the kref R3 2 hole jig and assumed that was right. you do 2 holes side by side. that was the reason to buy the double holer VS the single hole version. did I screw up?? and are the to close?
here a pic:
<a href="http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/devaji108/media/20160213_104107.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g480/devaji108/20160213_104107.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160213_104107.jpg"/></a>
here a pic:
<a href="http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/devaji108/media/20160213_104107.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g480/devaji108/20160213_104107.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160213_104107.jpg"/></a>
don_chuwish
Member
They have a wide variety of jigs for different size boards. The one I used had three holes with slightly different spacing, so you can come up with whatever is best for your particular task. With that one, you could do one hole and then move the jig over a bit to do the next. Looking at yours I too thought they were a bit close.
Do you not plan to skin the stand at all? Because I really think you'd be fine as is just by adding plywood skin on sides and back. When I did mine I also used LiquidNails wherever plywood met lumber. Glued, screwed or stapled (sometimes both). The stand feels like ridiculous overkill now.
Do you not plan to skin the stand at all? Because I really think you'd be fine as is just by adding plywood skin on sides and back. When I did mine I also used LiquidNails wherever plywood met lumber. Glued, screwed or stapled (sometimes both). The stand feels like ridiculous overkill now.
Devaji108
New member
yeah we tend to over build in the DIY stands right. but it a good thing. I will skin the stand with cold roll steel. front will be magnetic to easily removed for sump access. right will be screwed in as well as left. it will add a bit of twisting support but not much anything else i believe.
man if I had know i needed to move the jig I would have saved the 20 bucks and bought the one holer..haha this might come in handy when/if I make other projects.
SO the question is with the pocket holes this close does it offer the support the tank will need?
man if I had know i needed to move the jig I would have saved the 20 bucks and bought the one holer..haha this might come in handy when/if I make other projects.
SO the question is with the pocket holes this close does it offer the support the tank will need?
davocean
Active member
If you ran the side rails longer and cut the front ones so they travel your stand frame dims stay the same, just both land on a vertical post, this is optimal.
pocket screws, yeah, would have spaced wider.
Some compomises are no big deal but at some point they do add up.
Glue, this is one thing so many new to woodwork can't seem to buy, and I'll include myself in that way back when, but just FYI, a properly glued joint will never come apart, you will tear wood off before breaking a well glued union.
High end cabinet shops will use glue and only glue, no nails.
I only skip glue when I plan to take it apart, if I use glue it will never come apart.
All in all, yeah, probably fine as is as long as you support those side rails vertically, but if probably does not sit well and you want yes it will, then some redo is in order.
pocket screws, yeah, would have spaced wider.
Some compomises are no big deal but at some point they do add up.
Glue, this is one thing so many new to woodwork can't seem to buy, and I'll include myself in that way back when, but just FYI, a properly glued joint will never come apart, you will tear wood off before breaking a well glued union.
High end cabinet shops will use glue and only glue, no nails.
I only skip glue when I plan to take it apart, if I use glue it will never come apart.
All in all, yeah, probably fine as is as long as you support those side rails vertically, but if probably does not sit well and you want yes it will, then some redo is in order.
don_chuwish
Member
You probably got more feedback than you really wanted! I'm thinking 3/4" plywood triangles as corner braces, pocket screwed and glued is really enough. Then when you get the metal on it that will stop it from racking too.
Devaji108
New member
ha feedback is good ,I welcome it! after all that whats these forums are all about..we dont have to be expert in everything but know how to ask those who are eh?
so I talked to the kregs jig guys the said the pocket screws would be fine. but prob. best to glue as well.
so my plan tomorrow is cut some 1x1.5" hardwood support the the corners and then glue everything up.
best wood glue?
off to google it. I think i can a can of liquid nails..maybe
so I talked to the kregs jig guys the said the pocket screws would be fine. but prob. best to glue as well.
so my plan tomorrow is cut some 1x1.5" hardwood support the the corners and then glue everything up.
best wood glue?
off to google it. I think i can a can of liquid nails..maybe
don_chuwish
Member
Yeah, Tightbond II or III. Like daveocean says, III is more waterproof.
http://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/KregPlus/Images/june14/pocket-hole-placement-large.jpg
I use kreg or everything I build, just recently bought the HD version for beefier projects like this one. Are you using the HD screws? I don't think spacing is as critical since the width of boards aren't too large. Glue up and clamp everything, agreed.
Sorry I can't reply to your PM from yest until I have 10 posts. Will get back to you.
I use kreg or everything I build, just recently bought the HD version for beefier projects like this one. Are you using the HD screws? I don't think spacing is as critical since the width of boards aren't too large. Glue up and clamp everything, agreed.
Sorry I can't reply to your PM from yest until I have 10 posts. Will get back to you.
+1 on titebond. You can just add another pocket hole at each joint for wider spacing. The two holes on the jig are spaced fine for narrow stock on wider stock you need to move the jig for better spacing. By the time you are done adding the suggestions from everyone here your stand will be very solid.
