Prazipro is one of the must have "stationery stock items" for aquarists.
Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method
- Thread starter snorvich
- Start date
Prazipro is one of the must have "stationery stock items" for aquarists.
DownwardDawg
New member
How should I "seed" my new 125 when I set it up? I want to use the TTM on my fish that are in my 29 now because they showed clear signs of ich 2 years ago. I treated with a "reef safe product". (Yes, I know I know:thumbdown) Nothing since then, but I want to start the 125 knowing it is ich free. I have some smaller tanks, filters, buckets, etc... Basically I have everything I need to do the TTM. I'm concerned about the fallow period. The 29 is several years old and full of coral and other inhabitants. I want to transfer all of this to the new 125 when I start it soon. I planned on using the filter material that's in the HOB filter and throw it in the sump with maybe a dead shrimp. the new tank will be started with all dead rock and dry sand. The only live rock will be transferred from the 29 after the 125 cycles.
TTM should always use new water with no contamination from a display tank. Using anything (such as filter floss) from a non-safe tank is a recipe for failure. Inverts are not able to host cryptocaryon irritans so three days of QT would be fine. Rock, sand, etc, must be removed from fish, ideally for 9 weeks.
DownwardDawg
New member
I obviously did a terrible job of explaining my question. I'll keep reading. Thank you so much for such an informative thread!!!
Please try again. I have been sick so maybe more obtuse than usual. My objection was seeding a biological filter from a tank that has ich.
DownwardDawg
New member
It's been a long 2 weeks at work and I'm not thinking clearly at all. I was gonna do the TTM with clean water and NO filters. I was going to seed the new 125 with the filter floss from the 29, so yeah, you were thinking right and I was just not thinking clearly. I was gonna let both the 29 and the 125 stay fallow for 9 weeks but then I have the problem of keeping up with the fish in the QT.
How can I seed the 125 with the bacteria I need without using any live rock, filter sponges, live sand, etc...??? I have plenty of dry rock and sand waiting. I would love to start with all "dead" stuff and when the cycle is done, I could perform the TTM on my fish and then place them in the 125. Nine weeks later, I could move everything from the 29 into the 125. (I hope that makes sense) :spin1:
jjk_reef00
New member
You can borrow rock, etc from a fellow reefer who you think has a clean tank (IMO risky).
Or you can cycle a new tank (new media) the old fashion way by adding ammonia (food etc) and letting the nitrite turn to nitrate but this takes some time. Adding the dry rock may be enough to start the cycle, but you need to test and see.
Or you can cycle a new tank (new media) the old fashion way by adding ammonia (food etc) and letting the nitrite turn to nitrate but this takes some time. Adding the dry rock may be enough to start the cycle, but you need to test and see.
Yes. Given that "tanks have ich" using anything from that tank that has not had nine weeks of fallow time is a risk. And thanks to jjk_reef00 for the assist/clarification during my time of "reduced capacity".
DownwardDawg
New member
Thank you both! I won't be using anything from any established tank to start my 125. I'll toss in a dead shrimp or something similar.
Great. Put it in a woman's nylon for easy removal.
Should I be having ammonia problems in a 10g tank after only two days?
I got a Yellow Watchman Goby (2.5") and a Blue Reef Chromis (0.5" !?!?!) from LiveAquaria. I decided to do the tank transfer method. So, I put them into a 10g tank with fresh (but aged overnight) saltwater, heater, and small powerhead. The Blue Reef Chromis died within 8 hours - chalked it up to shipping stress. The goby did fine for two days, but on the morning of the third day - he was swimming upside down and breathing fast. I had used prime the day before as a precaution. Additionally, my API ammonia test kit barely read green - meaning, to my eyes, less than 0.1ppm. LiveAquaria has been great and gave me a full credit - including shipping.
Figured, since I was quarantining anyway, I would just pick up another Yellow Watchman Goby (1.75") from the LFS. I saw it eat before taking it home. I also added a cupful of sand to the 10g tank so the goby would feel a little more at home. (The sand was dry sand from CaribSea, not live sand. I will be discarding the sand between tank transfers.) Anyway, the fish seems to be doing alright, but I am paranoid . . . The ammonia is measuring a little, but I have used Prime - twice (I know it will still show up on tests after using Prime). I just want to make it through the tank transfer method successfully, so I can get the fish into my cycled regular quarantine tank. Any help on how to get the fish through this method would be appreciated.
I got a Yellow Watchman Goby (2.5") and a Blue Reef Chromis (0.5" !?!?!) from LiveAquaria. I decided to do the tank transfer method. So, I put them into a 10g tank with fresh (but aged overnight) saltwater, heater, and small powerhead. The Blue Reef Chromis died within 8 hours - chalked it up to shipping stress. The goby did fine for two days, but on the morning of the third day - he was swimming upside down and breathing fast. I had used prime the day before as a precaution. Additionally, my API ammonia test kit barely read green - meaning, to my eyes, less than 0.1ppm. LiveAquaria has been great and gave me a full credit - including shipping.
Figured, since I was quarantining anyway, I would just pick up another Yellow Watchman Goby (1.75") from the LFS. I saw it eat before taking it home. I also added a cupful of sand to the 10g tank so the goby would feel a little more at home. (The sand was dry sand from CaribSea, not live sand. I will be discarding the sand between tank transfers.) Anyway, the fish seems to be doing alright, but I am paranoid . . . The ammonia is measuring a little, but I have used Prime - twice (I know it will still show up on tests after using Prime). I just want to make it through the tank transfer method successfully, so I can get the fish into my cycled regular quarantine tank. Any help on how to get the fish through this method would be appreciated.
For the two fish that died from Dr. F&S, SG was 1.021. I raised it to my tank level of 1.025 over the course of about an hour and a half. In retrospect, this could have been too quickly, and I should have set my tank water at 1.021 and slowly raised it during the tank transfer period or afterward.
For my new fish, the LFS water was 1.025, so it matched my water. I went and bought an Ammonia Alert and put it in there. I also changed out 50% of the water (but I think it was unneceassary). I turned off the powerhead, and he seems to be doing alot better. I wonder if too much flow was a concern. He was literally lying on the bottom before, but now he is perched up on his fins like I expected. I only have a bubble stone in there now for flow.
I appreciate all your help. I am comitted to making this tank transfer method of quarantine work.
jjk_reef00
New member
Thanks for all the great information Steve, and I hope you feel better!
Thanks! Today is day three of great antibiotics and I can almost think clearly. Brutal stuff though, writing coherently was marginal at best but I gave it my best shot.
erinangele
New member
Will the TTM also cure black ich?
I have not used it for that purpose, TTM is designed around the specific life cycle of cryptocaryon irritans. But my speculation is it will not be totally effective despite the turbellarian flatworms, genus Paravortex dropping off after about five days to reproduce.
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