Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[Cujo13]

Hello, I have a simple question. Do you use water from from the DT for the transfer tanks or new? It would seem you would run a risk of reinfecting if the DT tank was known to have ich. Thank you in advance.

 

[snorvich]

Hello, I have a simple question. Do you use water from from the DT for the transfer tanks or new? It would seem you would run a risk of reinfecting if the DT tank was known to have ich. Thank you in advance.

Unless you have always quarantined and your tank is known to be ich free, it is best to use new salt water.

 

[Spar]

Unless you have always quarantined and your tank is known to be ich free, it is best to use new salt water.

+1

I use DT water since I have had QT procedures since the beginning. To the best of my knowledge my tank is ich free.

 

[Cujo13]

Thank you for responses that makes perfect sense to me.

 

[Brando457]

I plan on doing the tank transfer method for my new incoming fish, but had a question/wondering if this would work.

I was thinking what if I put 5 separate packs of ceramic media or 5 separate sponges in my DT to build a biofilter. Then when I'm ready to QT fish I move the filters to the QTs each tank transfer and no worries about the ammonia/etc.?

Does this seem like it'd work? I know it'd be a waste of resources, but after losing my entire display to velvet and wanting a few tangs I am QT-ing EVERYTHING!

Also I was thinking once the fish are in their final QT after the TT then I could possibly wash the ceramic media in bleach or even in pure RO water to kill any possible remaining ich?

Thanks

 

[Spar]

I plan on doing the tank transfer method for my new incoming fish, but had a question/wondering if this would work.

I was thinking what if I put 5 separate packs of ceramic media or 5 separate sponges in my DT to build a biofilter. Then when I'm ready to QT fish I move the filters to the QTs each tank transfer and no worries about the ammonia/etc.?

Does this seem like it'd work? I know it'd be a waste of resources, but after losing my entire display to velvet and wanting a few tangs I am QT-ing EVERYTHING!

Also I was thinking once the fish are in their final QT after the TT then I could possibly wash the ceramic media in bleach or even in pure RO water to kill any possible remaining ich?

Thanks

It would work, yes, but you wouldn't get the maximum benefit out of it. Ammonia detoxifiers like Prime or AmQuel will accomplish that task even better and much cheaper.

Put it this way, I am WAY over stocking a TTM 29g tank process right now with 5 large yellow tangs AND a medium sized purple tang. I get readings of almost 1ppm ammonia after the first day of my 3-day periods. I use Prime each night, do a 50% water change at the end of day 2, and the fish seem happy as can be.

That said, worrying about ammonia when doing TTM really is overkill.

As for reusing some of the sponges and bio media. If you bleach it and let it dry for at least a week, if not longer, then I can't imagine that being a problem. I personally just throw them out (air stones, sponge filters, etc), but there is no science behind this decision.

I am not sure that pure RO would do anything for you though. When it comes to killing tomites/cysts, water of any salinity (zero or above) is your enemy.

 

[Brando457]

Isn't the benefit to have a biological filter to process the ammonia, which in case the sponge filter would do, be it for a short time period, but still assist.

 

[NTP66]

Isn't the benefit to have a biological filter to process the ammonia, which in case the sponge filter would do, be it for a short time period, but still assist.

Yes, but the less you have in the tank during TTM, the greater your chances of success (IMO). Prime is cheap and will negate the issue for you. Personally, I'd save the ceramic media for your QT post-TTM - I did the same thing, and it worked well. Keep it simple.

 

[Spar]

Isn't the benefit to have a biological filter to process the ammonia, which in case the sponge filter would do, be it for a short time period, but still assist.

yes, as I mentioned it would work. i'm just saying it isn't necessary. i've done TTM dozens of times and never had ammonia build up to the point of even needing ammonia detox, until this recent TTM and the ammonia detox is doing the job just fine. i have 2 seeded sponge filters in my DT right now waiting to move over to the QT for the observation period.

but if cost isn't an issue, then may as well do it. won't hurt anything, and if it gives you extra security that you are treating the fish well, then it is a good idea.

 

[Spar]

I do agree with Nick's point about "keep it simple". one other reason I stick to just airpump and air tube/stones, PVC and a heater. quick and easy transfers.

 

[snorvich]

Yes, but the less you have in the tank during TTM, the greater your chances of success (IMO). Prime is cheap and will negate the issue for you. Personally, I'd save the ceramic media for your QT post-TTM - I did the same thing, and it worked well. Keep it simple.

This.

 

[m0nkie]

I have a noob question.. I had a brain fart and transferred my tank 1 day too early. This is for the 2nd transfer. Instead of waiting 3 days, I transferred on the 2nd day in the morning.

Shall I add another transfer to the total amounts? or is this sorta ok? I haven't seen any ich or stress on the fish.

I still plan on observing the fish for 2 more weeks after the TT is complete. And a side question, do you suggest I dose medication on the last 2 weeks? or just observe?


lesson: never work on the tank at 2am...

 

[snorvich]

Too short is no problem. Too long is a problem (greater than 72 hours). Just add another transfer or two so the total process is at least 12 days.

 

[kentwo]

Snorvich,
I am impressed that you are still contributing to this topic for such a long time. Kudos to you for helping grow this hobby and save some fish.

So I had a few fish in a QT for a couple of weeks with no signs of ich, but the notorious white spots showed up after they went into the DT. I'm pretty sure my DT is contaminated (as opposed to the fish) since I still have a couple more fish in the QT that have not gotten any parasites.

I've tried the hypo and copper methods before, but they always seem to fail. Hypo was too difficult in maintaining the proper salinity and it took forever. Copper just seemed to make things worse for the fish. So I'm glad that I stumbled across the TT method to try since it seems right up my alley.

I read up to page 11 on this thread, and kind of skipped some stuff but here's my plan:

Use two 5 gal buckets, pvc, air pumps, heater and perform the TT method for 12 days, transferring the fish in the morning on every fourth day. Then using a bleach solution (1 part per 20 was mentioned) to sterilize the equipment. Dry everything and repeat.

After the transfer period is over I put the fish into a longer term QT tank to watch for any other outbreak as well as give time for the ich to die out in my DT. So with the 12 days from transferring, I guess they would be living in the QT for a little over six weeks.

I need some advice on how to properly set up the QT for the post TT process. I was going to use a 20 gal tank, with a small skimmer. If I set up this QT now, it will not be cycled by the time the fish are ready to join in. My normal though would be to add some rocks/water/sand from the DT to start up the system, but I think that would counter productive to the TT system.

Should I use a HOB to add additional filtration to the system? How should I proceed?

 

[kentwo]

Also, how do you use prazi as a dip? Just mix per instructions and leave the fish in for a little while? I wanted to do this at the end of the TT session.

 

[kentwo]

what is the opinion on TT in buckets ?

also, Prime to control ammonia during the 2 days is fine ?

How often do you add prime? Everyday during TT?

 

[snorvich]

I try to keep up with this thread but my time is not unlimited. Critical success issues:

+no more than 72 hours in a given transfer cycle, but less is fine
+total of 12 days so 3x3x3x3 or 2x2x2x2x2x2 are equally fine
+ammonia badge to monitor ammonia and prime or equivalent added towards the end of a cycle if doing 3 days
+at least 3 weeks of observation after TT in case fish were obtained from a system which had copper in it
+prazipro x 2 a week apart

 

[Spar]

How often do you add prime? Everyday during TT?

depends on how crammed your tank is and how messy (poopy) the fish is. i generally just do as Steve recommends and dose Prime at the end of Day 2 each transfer cycle. my last batch of fish I added it after Day 1 & 2.

the labels generally just say to not dose more than once per day.

 

[snorvich]

depends on how crammed your tank is and how messy (poopy) the fish is. i generally just do as Steve recommends and dose Prime at the end of Day 2 each transfer cycle. my last batch of fish I added it after Day 1 & 2.

the labels generally just say to not dose more than once per day.

Exactly. Since I never add more than one fish at a time, that is the maximum in the process. Some fish that eat a lot and poop a lot would require slightly more attention in the ammonia prevention scheme.

 

[kentwo]

depends on how crammed your tank is and how messy (poopy) the fish is. i generally just do as Steve recommends and dose Prime at the end of Day 2 each transfer cycle. my last batch of fish I added it after Day 1 & 2.

the labels generally just say to not dose more than once per day.

Thanks. How about the prazi? Do you does it like a normal tank? Can I do this in my bucket on the last day?