Copper isn't an option at any lfs store in Maine, so I used the transfer method. I would advocate this method any day. It works just as good, if not better than copper and if you do it right, there is next to zero stress to the fish. First, they've proven ich can attach to some types of coral, glass, acrylic, plastic, filter media and a myriad Of other tank tools as well as some CORAL (for some reason, not starfish though, which I find odd since they CAN attach to sea urchins). So QT EVERYTHING YOU BRING IN. Secondly, it does not take a lot of equipment. For my two clowns I used two, two gallon tanks and a ten gallon. The tanks are not established. All start with brand new water. No sand, no filtration. Only a bubbler and a heater and a fishing net or turkey baster is required (for removing excess food and waste at the end of the day). You also need two hours fairly early in the morning so organize schedules accordingly. All tank parameters must match exactly. This was responsible for the absence of stress in my recovering fish. Saline must be exact because changes in saline, even minor ones, can really stress them out. Ph and heat can too, so stick to the same water source and have heated SPRING water ready. I use spring water to start because I use this to kill off anything that might survive the over night vinegar soaking between tank transfers. I also allow complete drying of the tank to occur. I treat my water (also helps to keep down ammonia briefly in a filter less tank). I get my parameters right. I transfer my fish (WITHOUT A NET). The net is only fir picking up wasted food four minutes after feeding. I feed twice a day and check ammonia and in the two gallon tanks they always read zero come the next day. My nitrites are zero, nitrates between five and eight (not too bad considering my DT runs around 15-20). Calcium is 425, ph might run slightly low with spring water so keep an eye on that. When I transfer my fish, they feel like they are going into the same water (according to tests) as much as possible. No stress. The tanks appear identical. Bubbler and heater are cleaned with vinegar, rinsed dried and replaced (rinse and dry WELL or you'll mess up your alk and ph with the vinegar) and are placed in the exact same place. When I tried hypo, as slow as I tried dropping the salinity and as well as I held it, my fish almost died purely from the stress of it. I do not advocate hypo, though I don't begrudge anyone who's managed to make it work for them, but I find this works better than anything else I have tried. It's chem. free, low stress and just a bit more work. If you don't have extra tanks, anything big enough to hold two gallons of water will work (not metal). Only other thing is to soak everything you use in vinegar over night to kill anything that might be on it. Even one drip of infected water can reinfect your fish so don't share tools with your DT. I transfer from two gallon to two gallon every morning for 12 days. Then they go into the QT ten gallon tank for the remaining ten or eleven weeks (yes you heard that right). Altogether it's 13-14 weeks, give or take a couple of days. For this tank I use RO/DI water and I change it out exactly as I did the two gallons, once a week (so they spend a day a week back in the two gallon) vinegar, drying and all. It sounds like a lot, but as long as your water doesn't change, they don't really stress. I use a simple hang on the back filter with carbon for the ten gallon and toss the carbon, putting in a new one every time I clean my tank and put in new water. I only have two baby clowns. I would not use two gallons for more or bigger fish than that. I stick to a one gallon per inch of fish rule (just for those 12 days). After that it's two gallons per one inch of fish. I really feel stress is a big part of fish loss during ich treatment. That, and ich on the gills. One you can help and one you can't, but I'll take what control I can for them. One last thing... I never feed more than twice a day during this. This is to hold the water more steady in such a small environment. After they are in the ten gallon, I feed three times, but I am meticulous about vacuuming out the bottom after with a piece of air line hose. You can pinch it so you don't remove too much water while you clean, just removing the detritus. This method has left me totally ich free. I hope it helps someone else. Both fish survived. Judge your fish though. If you have a particular type of fish who does not handle transfer well, you would be much better off with copper. Those are the only two methods I support myself.