Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[Deinonych]

It's been discussed that 24 hours is recommended to dry equipment without risk to carrying ich. That got me thinking. If you've been handling a tank with fish that have ich (hands in the water, on the fish, cleaning the tank, etc) does a person need to wait 24 hours before putting their hands in the new tank water, or in their DT for that matter?

No. If you wash your hands thoroughly, there is little risk of transferring parasites. The infective theront stage is easily transferred via water droplets, but it's also the most vulnerable to hand washing. The cysts are the more hardy life stage that requires the 24-hour drying period, and it's highly unlikely they would be transferred via water droplets, as they are typically affixed to hard surfaces and/or substrate.

 

[atraperegrinus]

I did my first transfer today, but the initial white dots on my clown never went away.

what does that mean? does something else show as white dots? i'll snap a picture next time i get up.

or could it just be that there's that many it wont show until second or third transfer?

 

[Deinonych]

The trophont (feeding) stage lasts 3-7 days. So, you may still see white spots through the second transfer depending on the particular strain and/or environmental factors (temperature, salinity etc.)

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164

 

[atraperegrinus]

okay, good to know.

thanks!

 

[tmz]

Picture would help. Could be ich , velvet, lymphocytus or something else.

 

[atraperegrinus]

Picture would help. Could be ich , velvet, lymphocytus or something else.

I'll snap some pictures tomorrow morning.

 

[atraperegrinus]

Well no pics one of two fish died. The lawnmower blenny seems fine, so I'll finish th ttm with him and go from there. Starting to think it maybe wasn't ich, the lawnmower doesn't seem effected at all, but it's hard to see white dots on him

 

[elagui]

hi guys i a have some redundant questions i apologize ahead of time. i have 4 fish a small 2-3in blue hippo, 2 clownfish, and a mandarin goby(which only eats copepods any advice for this fish would be appreciated?) would a 5 gallon bucket be ok for the ttm? also on day 1 do i start with fresh new saltwater or do i use dt water? also can anyone recommend a cheap air pump and air stone what they used for this. also can i use the same air pump for both buckets or do i need a 2 pumps?

thanks guy im new to this

 

[Spar]

hi guys i a have some redundant questions i apologize ahead of time. i have 4 fish a small 2-3in blue hippo, 2 clownfish, and a mandarin goby(which only eats copepods any advice for this fish would be appreciated?) would a 5 gallon bucket be ok for the ttm? also on day 1 do i start with fresh new saltwater or do i use dt water? also can anyone recommend a cheap air pump and air stone what they used for this. also can i use the same air pump for both buckets or do i need a 2 pumps?

thanks guy im new to this

you could get away with a 5g bucket for the clowns and mandarin, for the 12 days of TTM anyway. For the subsequent QT days you will want to get a larger tank (20g preferred). As for the tang, that is pushing it. A 10g TTM setup would be a lot better, if not even a 20g TTM setup.

there used to be a product called nutravar ova for feeding mandarins where pods aren't present; but i think that has been out-of-stock everywhere for quite some time. do some searches on RC and you will hopefully find a replacement food, and/or start a new post (although i am sure searches will find plenty of answers).

you can use the same air pump no problem as long as no water made its way into the pump for some reason... as long as you have the airpump above your water line (as recommended by the manufacturer) then you won't have had this as a problem. any cheap air pump, tubing and stones will work just fine, brand doesn't matter. the only thing airpumps/stones do is break the surface of the water to allow oxygen exchange, so as long as the pump works, it will work for your purpose!

 

[elagui]

you could get away with a 5g bucket for the clowns and mandarin, for the 12 days of TTM anyway. For the subsequent QT days you will want to get a larger tank (20g preferred). As for the tang, that is pushing it. A 10g TTM setup would be a lot better, if not even a 20g TTM setup.

there used to be a product called nutravar ova for feeding mandarins where pods aren't present; but i think that has been out-of-stock everywhere for quite some time. do some searches on RC and you will hopefully find a replacement food, and/or start a new post (although i am sure searches will find plenty of answers).

you can use the same air pump no problem as long as no water made its way into the pump for some reason... as long as you have the airpump above your water line (as recommended by the manufacturer) then you won't have had this as a problem. any cheap air pump, tubing and stones will work just fine, brand doesn't matter. the only thing airpumps/stones do is break the surface of the water to allow oxygen exchange, so as long as the pump works, it will work for your purpose!

Thank you. so for day 1 do i use water from the dt or fresh new saltwater?

 

[Spar]

it really won't matter if you consider the timing of the life cycle, but you are better off starting with new saltwater so that you don't have any free-swimming theronts brought over.

 

[botp2k1]

I'm not sure I've read about this but I want to bring up the topic of live brine shrimp.

As we are very concerned with introducing ich especially when we are doing the TTM, is it possible for ich to be introduced either to the main display or to our TTM methods if live brine shrimp is used to entice eating?

When purchasing live brine shrimp, we may not be 100% sure the water from which they come from is 100% free of ich or whether the equipment used in the holding tank is exclusively used only for the live brine shrimp.

I am thinking it could be a possibility and another way ich "can" be unknowingly introduced into systems.

 

[Spar]

It is theoretically possible that a theront or protomont be transferred in the water of the live brine shrimp if they were in the same water source as fish. But most brine shrimp are farmed in containers isolated to only the brine shrimp.

I'd put this possibility in the highly unlikely category personally.

You could always hatch your own brine to be sure..

 

[Jesfromdax]

Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Has anybody had experience with putting Banggai Cardinals through TTM? Have a pair going on their 3rd transfer tomorrow morning and one has not eaten anything since I bought them. I know they are picky eaters to begin with, but his mate eats everything. Could the TTM be causing him a lot more stress? I want to treat with Prazi in case of internal parasites, but I really wanted to wait until TTM was over and they go into the QT.

 

[snorvich]

Has anybody had experience with putting Banggai Cardinals through TTM? Have a pair going on their 3rd transfer tomorrow morning and one has not eaten anything since I bought them. I know they are picky eaters to begin with, but his mate eats everything. Could the TTM be causing him a lot more stress? I want to treat with Prazi in case of internal parasites, but I really wanted to wait until TTM was over and they go into the QT.

Sounds like the male is carrying babies in his mouth.

 

[Jesfromdax]

Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Sounds like the male is carrying babies in his mouth.

I hope so Snorvich. I've tried everything but live Brine, because for some strange reason no LFS I've gone to here in NYC has them (???). All I can find are the eggs. I just tossed some live Blackworms (can't believe I found those instead) and she ate them all up. He's going to have to find the will to live cause I've run out of ideas.

 

[Polkman]

Was wondering, during TTM while setting up the other clean/dry tank to be ready for the next day, is it ok to add a small amount of bacteria starter like smart start complete? I've been transferring the fish every other day right after formalin dips. Was thinking the bacteria starter would be an extra peace of mind just in case of a ammonia occurrence. (I would like to be generous when it comes to feeding everyday just to help out with the stress)

 

[Spar]

It wouldn't hurt anything to add the bacteria additive but it won't do much for you and is completely unnecessary. By the time the bacteria gets settled and starts doing its job you will be doing your next transfer anyway.

Just add prime or amquel after the 2nd day and you have much cheaper and effectively done the job of what bacteria would be doing.

 

[snorvich]

It wouldn't hurt anything to add the bacteria additive but it won't do much for you and is completely unnecessary. By the time the bacteria gets settled and starts doing its job you will be doing your next transfer anyway.

Just add prime or amquel after the 2nd day and you have much cheaper and effectively done the job of what bacteria would be doing.

Exactly.

 

[Spar]

Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Also you can get a few of the Seachem Ammonia Alert badges to use during TTM to keep a more regular eye on ammonia levels. Obviously letting them dry completely like you would any other equipment.

You are likely to never even get a reading.