CT 400 Build

Oooooh, that's a good point - the cord is set back from the drive face a bit, but not 1/4". I think if I have them do the recess at 3 1/2" there'll be enough room to route it properly. They're sending me a CAD of the tank in the next couple of weeks, so nothing set in stone (or in this case, acrylic, yuk yuk). Good catch though, thanks.

Tank is due to ship out around July 10, so my plan is to get it into the garage on a knock down stand initially so I can dry fit all the new plumbing. Then sometime towards September, when it gets cooler, do the swap over. Got to get the 265 out (at 400 lbs. empty) before the new tank goes in - all in the same day. Asked the builder how heavy the 400 would be and he said nominally about 500 lbs. Thought it would have been less, but what's a few hundred pounds :lol:

Well you decided to go ham and get 1" acrylic, so I'm not too surprised it's heavier than normal. Do you think the MP40s will provide enough meaningful flow to customize the tank for them?
 
I have been using dual MP40 for cross flow and like them. Plus I have them :lol:. Tank builders says it's a trivial effort so what the heck.
 
Thinking Out Loud - Fish Plan

Thinking Out Loud - Fish Plan

My current system consists of the 265 main display, a 5' 120 gallon refugium, a 60 gallon frag tank and the sump. System is pretty much maxed out with fish and, of course, I'd like to add more.

Refugium contains polyzona tang, gem tang, small Naso, quoyi parrot, a trio of leopard wrasses and an orchid Dottyback. How is it a refugium you are thinking? No coral nippers so it's where most of my LPS has ended up along with a very large gorgonian.

Frag tank contains a pair if Banggai and a 'runt' scopas tang for algae control (a task beyond him though).

Current display is the problem as I'd like to add a large Naso, possibly vlamingi or blue spine. Plus at some point the regular Naso is going to need more space. I'd also like to add to my group of Bimaculatus anthias, and maybe a few more bartletts. Fish tanks are like closet space - crap expands to fill the available space.
 
BTW, I have had a number if folks ask me if the 265 will be for sale. The answer is yes once the time comes. It will be just the tank, stand and cap; no other equipment. Also, the stand does not have any room for a sump since I operate a separate fish room for that.
 
So in discussions with the tank builder, I'm going to have them route a 1/4" deep circle on the outside of the back panel where the two MP40s are going to go. It will mean I cannot subsequently move them, but that's ok. The 1/4" ledge will also provide support for the dry side.

Simon I would suggest that they rout the depressions with radiused inside corners. This will help control cracking and crazing. Sharp inside corners are a no no with plastics and other various materials. Cracks tend to form at the corners and radiate outwards. You may have to increase the diameter of the depression slightly to allow for the radius so the dryside sits flat.
 
I guess I assume they would do the depressions that way, but it's a good point that I need to make sure that the diameter is adequate for the 3 3/8" flat spot necessary for the vortech motor.
 
What if you just attached the powerheads to a strip of acrylic that could be suspended into the tank instead of trying to modify the sides? That would make the powerheads easier to remove for cleaning and avoid any future problems, i.e. if you change powerheads in future and the replacements don't fit your routed depressions.

Dave.M
 
yeah was going to say, "that might void the warranty on those Vortechs"

(not that there probably is much of one considered their old)
 
Not much happening on the new tank front at the moment. Still need to work out the best magnet cleaner to use on an acrylic tank as well as whether I will need another light. Got quite a lot of business travel over the next few weeks, but I do need to get moving on building the stand.
 
Looks exciting Simon. If I am around for the nice day I'd be happy to help. Also I could probably come up with a couple suction cups from work to make it easier. Following along.


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Been thinking about how to use the new optical sensors now available from Neptune. I'm not necessarily replacing traditional reed floats (I have had a few fail over time, one recently, but redundant switches catches them) but thinking about applications where a float won't fit. I'm considering, for example, mounting one in the top of the overflow skimmer box that will alert me if the water level in the tank rises too much, and another in the dry emergency of the external box to alert me if it sees any water.
 
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Not much happening on the new tank front at the moment. Still need to work out the best magnet cleaner to use on an acrylic tank as well as whether I will need another light. Got quite a lot of business travel over the next few weeks, but I do need to get moving on building the stand.



Mighty Magnets. Magnavore 8s will work too but they're small and sink like bricks.

I like the mighty mags because they float and they have a larger cleaning surface so one grain of sand isn't as likely to scratch. They also make a dozer pad which has a triangular strip of (softer than acrylic) plastic attached to it which is great for coraline and spotty algae.

I don't believe you said you've had an acrylic tank before so pardon me if this is "been there done that" info to you :) - They key with acrylic tanks is to be very diligent about using new pads and always watch where you've been. You'll scratch it eventually, I promise. You just want to notice quickly and pull the pad before you drag back and forth across the panel multiple times. You can sand/buff everything but gouges out of it. It can be tough to take sandpaper to an otherwise perfect panel - I'm happy to give to a tutorial if (when) you put one in it. Cleaning near the sand line is also a PITA. I can show you some techniques there as well.
 
Yep, will be my first acrylic tank so any tips on avoiding scratching the tank are most welcome. I'm leaning towards the MM, just no need to pull the trigger yet, so plenty of waffling to be done :lol:
 
simon, one thing i did with my acrylic tank(also my first) is went with less sand and kept it in the middle of the tank for the most part. there is some near the front and sides but not a lot. since my tank is a cube and the pumps are on the back wall, eventually the flow moved all the sand into the center part of the tank or along the back. this worked out perfect for me! and helps keep the sand from the front viewing panel.

corey
 
Yep, will be my first acrylic tank so any tips on avoiding scratching the tank are most welcome. I'm leaning towards the MM, just no need to pull the trigger yet, so plenty of waffling to be done :lol:

Do not leave any magnet cleaner in the tank.Coralline algae will grow on it and one day....it will scratch!
Also, put a piece of cloth on the wet side, and clean the cloth after use.
 
I've been thinking about building the stand so that the front and side come 4" or so up the tank. That way I can stay away from the sand and not see the grubby line.
 
I've been thinking about building the stand so that the front and side come 4" or so up the tank. That way I can stay away from the sand and not see the grubby line.

That's how the front and side panels of my 450g stand were...Only about 2" higher, with a removable ~1" molding, kept magnet away from sand
 
Ha, it may well have been you who gave me the idea. Not beyond stealing the goods ones :lol:. Got your new tank yet?
 
Ha, it may well have been you who gave me the idea. Not beyond stealing the goods ones :lol:. Got your new tank yet?

The 500 is done, the 200 should be done this week and both will ship at same time... Have to start planning the stands!
 
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