Cully's Double D's

Man awesome work - I haven't been on in while and this sounds like tank #5 for you in the last 5 years. Good luck! I wish I have the $ to rework my entire system.

Ha! More like 3rd in 7 years. Everytime we move. 72 at old appartment. 180 at our first house. 200 at our current AND LAST house. Never moving again! What a nightmare.

Making RO slowly but surely. About 60 made, only need another 180 or so to go....
 
Still trying to figure out a way to brace the upper portion of the return plumbing. Down low I have supported it, and I can snug it to the tank stand like I did with the overflow pipes. Up top though, its up against the tank and I don't really have a way to snug it or support it. I guess I could rig something on the canopy one I get that in place.

Any suggestions?

Probably don't want to tie to canopy, since you'll eventually want to pull the canopy off, and don't want the plumbing coming with it. Perhaps a piece of neoprene under the fittings to eliminate any rattles, then a zip tie around it.
 
I like that. I may actually use the neoprine idea, or some foam, and just wedge a brace butwren the tank and the wall. It wont be visible, or permanent, but it'll git er done!
 
mark we use a structural foam in the automotive industry and it hardens in 30 to 45 seconds . its bullet proof and very flexible along with zero voc,s so it wont off gas anything harmful . maybe that would work out for your purpose .
let me know if you want to try some and i can come over and see if it looks like it will work for you .
 
I like that return Cully..Think that pvc pipe will get pretty warm being so close to the lights ?? I wonder if it will heat your water a bit..

That is some peice of timber you have for a brace,I think that is an idea I will use from you, that should be able to support a mac-truck lol..
 
I like that return Cully..Think that pvc pipe will get pretty warm being so close to the lights ?? I wonder if it will heat your water a bit..

That is some peice of timber you have for a brace,I think that is an idea I will use from you, that should be able to support a mac-truck lol..

It'll be farther away from the halides than it looks so the only concern is the T5s. There will be fans blowing across the surface to cool, oxygenate, and circulate air in the hood. Truthfully I'm worried about being able to keep the tub warm enough vs too warm.

This is experimen:hmm2:tal and certainly subject to change if there's an issue.
 
its a beautiful thing

its a beautiful thing

Got the RO cooking. Collecting into the ATO bin with a gravity feed to the salt mixing bin. Both are to be hard plumbed to a drain in the existing house plumbing for overflow protect.

IMG_20110607_182606.jpg
 
Is there a reason that you have 1/4" tubing running to the salt mixing bin versus something larger? It seems to me like you would need to stand around waiting to fill the salt mixing brute with ro, though I'm probably misunderstanding some mechanics here...
 
The line from the unit is only 1/4", so a larger bore line wouldn't really get you there any quicker. Its more convenient for the size of the float valve I had available. I will do a 30- 40 gallon/week water change. It will take a day or so to fill the bin when the valve is open. It does not need to be monitored, as the float will stop flow to salt bucket. Flow to ATO bin (left) is shut off by an auto shut off. There is an overflow fail safe under construction in case of float valve failure. The valve between buckets is to prevent backflow while salt water bucket is mixing.

I don't like to mix new salt water until about 48 hrs from use. This prevents build up of mineral goop and allows enough time for testing and tweaks. Anyway, that leaves about 5 days for it to fill. Plenty of time.

I should add that the pic is a tad deceiving. The line to the bucket on the right is just lower than the auto shutoff float in the bucket on the left. There is a sweet spot where water flows to the bucket on the right before it shuts off flow on the left via auto shutoff. Once the float in the right hand bucket shuts off, there is a very short period of time, after which, the float on the left shuts down. It took a few tries to get it just right, and I did soak the floor once during said tuning.
 
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Uuuuuuugh So Close!!!

Uuuuuuugh So Close!!!

Water is just under the level of the overflow. Gotta wait another day for the RO unit to make mo. Need another 40 gallons or so til I can flip the switch.

Another $30 in PVC at Lowes and I think I'm done with the whole deal. Been doing some fancy plumbing, which I'm sure is nowhere near proper code, but easy to undo.
 
FW Test.....FAILED!

FW Test.....FAILED!

First off, Walters sealed FRP design is waterproof. So that's good. Multiple areas dripping from the return plumbing. Mostly at the connections around the ball valve unions, but not from their seals. Why wouldn't it be....they're only the most expensive pieces of the plumbing to replace. I'm not sure I trust any other type of fix other than a complete revision.

Beananimal overflow is, so far, anything but silent. Also having trouble tuning it. It doesn't seem to be keeping up with the Snapper, but SHOULD reportedly handle 2000+ GPH.
 
Glue section. Just a drip, but a good drip. 3 spots. I'm in denial. Any reliable fixes before I tear the whole section down?
 

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