Cursed Coral Tank

Well ya, thats why I ditched the GFO and lowered the bio pellets a few years ago to see if that helps. It didnt... Now I ditched the bio pellet altogether, and using a fug.. Lets see if the N&P increase helps.



Ok tht sounds good than good luck



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Okay so far, got some good suggestions. I just ordered a new refractometer w/ calibration fluid from BRS. Hopefully its as simple as a salinity problem. I paid for expediated shpping. Will know in a few days once it arrives!

I'm looking for a chloramine test kit for my rodi, see if that is a problem!

I'm keeping an eye out for pests but don't see any yet.

And will be testing N&P daily for next few weeks to see if stopping the bio pellet help increase some N&P to detectable levels. The chaeto seems to be growing though so I think its taking out some N&P.
 
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Thanks all!!! I'm feeling it could be my RODI water.. Feeling very optimistic :) I tracked down the dates when I started using my RODI system and it was August 2011. I also did my tank upgrade in Sept 2011. The times sync up very much.

For the cholormine issue that Slief & naterealbig brought up, I reviewed the current BRS 6 stage system and my 6 stage system. It seems BRS changed to using two carbon block 1 micron filter for cholarmine while I was only using 1 of those and 1 catalytic activated carbon which was their old system was using. Not sure why they changed it, if it had to do with costs or anything.. but I might as well change my 6 stage to mirror what they're currently doing.. Maybe two carbon blocks is better at removing cholarmines? Will do a series of water changes with the new water to see if that helps.

It doesnt look like my salinty is an issue. I just went to my LFS and asked for a bag of their water. I used my refractometer and it measures exactly 1.025, which is what I've been using on my own water. Will wait to get the salinity fluid calibration and try again.

As for the plastic issue that zach brought up: No plastics other than my acrylic sump by trigger systems.
 
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Could it be chloramines in your water source? There have been many in So. Cal who have been looking at chloramines in their water source as a potential reason for issues with corals.

Well, I'm doing a 23gallon water change today with new water that should be 100% chloramine free.

I've been watching a few BRS videos on cholramine and also one from Marine Depot. According to them, even with bad carbon blocks, the chloramines will be removed by the dionization process but will deplete DI resin very fast. So as long as my di resin wasnt depleted, there should be zero chloramines in the rodi water. Thoughts?

Anyway, hope the new water helps!
 
Just a quick note on refractometer calibration:. Calibrating this device using RODI water is an unacceptable method - you must use calibration fluid. This would be something easy to check. I ran into this problem several months ago. Corals withered away, but other inverts, such as cleaner shrimp were just fine.



Well, calibration fluid came. Holy smokes! I thought I was at 1.025 but turns out I'm only 1.023. Not sure if that would cause all my coral problems but I will bring it up to 1.026 and see if new frags make it.

I just read the refractometer article on slope error . Makes total sense now!


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Invest in an ATS (algae turf scrubber). Algae is nature's natural filter, and will remove unwanted excess nutrients, metals, i.e. anything that should not be in your system.
 
Quick update!! I am very encouraged.. I've raised my salinity to 1.026 and also installed new RODI prefilters that are suppose to be good choramine removers. I did two small water changes last week and a BIG water change today. The ducans I brought three weeks ago that I thought were completely dead (looked like it was just a empty heads) have come back to life.. Some of the whiskers are starting to open again though its too soon to tell. I will post more next week when I do another big water change! Hope things start improving.

Not sure if its the salinity, the chloramine or both.
 
Reef is doing really well since the chloramine issue has been addressed. New corals have thrived so far versus before. Here's a pic of my new rodi setup:
e3834d2010b927b6e83c3246e53dccd0.jpg



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Reef is doing really well since the chloramine issue has been addressed. New corals have thrived so far versus before. Here's a pic of my new rodi setup:
e3834d2010b927b6e83c3246e53dccd0.jpg



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Good stuff


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Reef is doing really well since the chloramine issue has been addressed. New corals have thrived so far versus before. Here's a pic of my new rodi setup:
e3834d2010b927b6e83c3246e53dccd0.jpg



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If you are convinced that chloramines were your problem, I'd invest in some sodium thiosulfate from Amazon or a local pool supply. Dose your tank with ~ 5 PPM and add some to your RO water, just in case you have low level breakthrough. Sure, the carbon prefilters should get chloramines out, but sodium thiosulfate is so cheap and harmless that you can use it prophylactically with water changes.
 
Reef is doing really well since the chloramine issue has been addressed. New corals have thrived so far versus before. Here's a pic of my new rodi setup:
e3834d2010b927b6e83c3246e53dccd0.jpg



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If you are convinced that chloramines were your problem, I'd invest in some sodium thiosulfate from Amazon or a local pool supply. Dose your tank with ~ 5 PPM and add some to your RO water, just in case you have low level breakthrough. Sure, the carbon prefilters should get chloramines out, but sodium thiosulfate is so cheap and harmless at the levels you will be adding it that you can use it prophylactically with water changes.
 
Yes, all fixed! My new Duncan's have started as 2 heads and now has 3 more growing. Birds nest showing nice growth as well. My regal angel which I thought was gray belly just turned yellow belly after the improved water.


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It's a sediment filter and a Chloramine Monster.. The monster is a huge 20bb filter that eradicates chloramines :) My filter goes like this:

Sediment -> Booster -> Chloramine Monster -> Carbon -> Carbon -> Carbon -> RO -> RO -> DI -> DI
 
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