cynobacteria nightmare

[slow_leak]

There is a simple solution.

From years ago in keeping freshwater aquariums, blue-green algae, a type of cyano appears in sheets when phosphates are detectable and nitrates are non-detectable.

I am not saying it is excatly the same but in low nutrient systems for example PO4 < 0.03 by HANNA LR and nitrates undectable or essentially zero by LAMOTTE, then adding potassium nitrates to 5 ppm as NO3 will help eliminate the cyano by adjusting the N:K ration to preferential uptake elsewhere of the residual phosphates.

This will work in 2-3 weeks in most cases. It does not go against standard advice here. Vodka dosing can be reduced and flow can be increase. I would stop using pellets and increase nori if appropriate for you tank as well.

 

[chercm]

sorry bro what do u mean by Nori ?

 

[bertoni]

GAC isn't very useful for dealing the cyanobacteria. It can adsorb only small amounts of nutrients, at best. I'd stick with the PhosBan, perhaps raising the dose. How much is in the system?

 

[Mako72]

I had a horrible cyanobacteria outbreak after my 2 year old daughter dumped half a container of pellets into the tank.
My solution was unusual....as it turned up on the substrate I buried it.....gradually it was all gone.

 

[username in use]

My brother actually discovered that a local hermit crab by us on long island eats cyano like it is its last meal. we now both keep some, and so far havent bothered any corals, fish or invertabrates that we have seen.

 

[7hogwarts]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15466735#post15466735 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chercm
sorry bro what do u mean by Nori ?

Nori is seaweed available in many oriental food stores.

 

[Tigé21v]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15433812#post15433812 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefWreak
Has anyone tried bacteria dosing to get rid of cyano? Or used it in conjunction with vodka dosing? I've ALWAYS had a few spots of cyano in my tank, and they grew when I did vodka dosing alone. When I started zeo, and eventually switched to Microbacter7 additions WITH the vodka, the cyano slowly disappeared, and I fortunately haven't seen any in a month or so now that I think about it. I guess it took 2 months of carbon+bacteria dosing to get it to go away.

What I was thinking about trying. Finally got my Ph low enough. Now if I could just get myself to add the first vodka dose.. Afraid of creating a whole new set of problems.
Since cyano is a bacteria, it seems to make sense that it is a dominant strain in the tank right now, outcompeting others for food.

 

[chercm]

does it mean i cannot dose PRODIBIO as it is also bacteria ???

 

[slow_leak]

It's really simpler than your making it out to be.

Red cyano dominates when N:K ratio favors it. Vodka will drive down N ratio so low that cyano can dominate. Simply adding 1-2 ppm potassium nitrates spiked when necessary will eliminate problem. You might see a very slight green film on glass at these levels but that's it. I did have one coral react negatively to a 10 ppm spike but it recovered.

 

[Tigé21v]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15498311#post15498311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slow_leak
It's really simpler than your making it out to be.

Red cyano dominates when N:K ratio favors it. Vodka will drive down N ratio so low that cyano can dominate. Simply adding 1-2 ppm potassium nitrates spiked when necessary will eliminate problem. You might see a very slight green film on glass at these levels but that's it. I did have one coral react negatively to a 10 ppm spike but it recovered.

Potassium nitrate is Saltpeter, right? How do you compute the amount needed? My nitrates hang right around 5 ppm (Salifert). How high should I push them? And couldn't the same result be achieved with feeding more?

 

[slow_leak]

If your nitrates are already 5 ppm then I wouldn't add any.

Just increase flow and run GFO in a canister filter. I need to clarify that adding nitrates is only advised in very low nutrient systems right now.

Really the best thing to do is just use frozen foods, no flake or pellets. Be sure to rinse all foods in a brine shrimp net before using.

Pellets and flake are 3% phosphorous and frozen food is 0.3% phosphorous.

You can raise nitrates by feeding more too, but would raise everything else too.

 

[chercm]

why not using pellets?

 

[slow_leak]

:rollface: :rollface: :rollface: :rollface:

your spiking phosphates to feed cyano potentially

 

[Runfrumu]

try some prodibio before you dose the red slime remover. I had it bad too and it seems cyano becomes immune to the red slime remover if it isnt all killed on the first dose. I started using the prodibio bio-clean and biodigest and havent had any since. It gets rid of the cyano fairly quick to, I guess the bacteria in it out competes the cyano.

 

[underpar]

Relative to using GAC and GFO.......

Can they be used in the same reactor?

If so, should they?

 

[Tigé21v]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15508160#post15508160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by underpar
Relative to using GAC and GFO.......

Can they be used in the same reactor?

If so, should they?

Lots of people mix the two together to help the GAC from becoming compacted.

Runfrumu..
"try some prodibio before you dose the red slime remover. I had it bad too and it seems cyano becomes immune to the red slime remover if it isnt all killed on the first dose. I started using the prodibio bio-clean and biodigest and havent had any since. It gets rid of the cyano fairly quick to, I guess the bacteria in it out competes the cyano."

I ordered some Microbacter7 yesterday, maybe I'll try some Biodigest along with it.

 

[chercm]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15503481#post15503481 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slow_leak
:rollface: :rollface: :rollface: :rollface:

your spiking phosphates to feed cyano potentially

u mean feeding with pellets is causing my cyano ?

 

[slow_leak]

I think you'll be OK as is.

Wet skim and GFO will go along way. I used prodibio and a little KNO3 in a very low nutrient system. I'd say it was the combo.

I did get the white tips seen in Low nutrient systems though. Probably would go much easier next time.

Nitrates went from 15 ppm to 5 ppm without water changes in one week and cyano mostly vanished. I would just go to 5 ppm in future.


Tige- How long did it take to see results?

 

[chercm]

i have been using the sulphur reactor so my no3 have been 0

 

[underpar]

Relative to using the same reactor for GAC and GFO...

Does the placement (top or bottom) of the media matter?

If so, which placement is better?

Thanks, Fred