D40 newbie, my photos suck - need settings recommendations...

[MisterTang]

Ok, I'm man enough to admit that my photography skills suck, which is probably a function of both being profoundly colorblind (and therefore generally disinterested in most art), and getting through a few pages of my D40's manual before becoming frustrated with all the obtuse instructions (tells me HOW to adjust ISO speed, but not enough of WHY or WHEN I should adjust it).

I have seen some really incredible pics on RC during the seven or so months that I've lurked here. I am now humbly asking that you (1) Bash my photography skills (2) Tell me what settings I could adjust, or what technique I could use to improve.

I did read an older article in ReefKeeping mag that was supposed to be a primer for photography newbies, but it didn't click very well. I guess I'm looking more for specific recommendations (do this and this and this), and less of "first, study the subject and determine which aperture setting to use based on a gazillion different variables."

Here are some of the more recent travesties I've inflicted upon the world of photography:

 

[maxalmon]

First off, not bad images, you just need to do some pre-photo work and follow some basics.

1) clean your glass!!! It's impossible to capture good images when you have a coating of algae on the inside of the tank.

2) Use a tripod for macro work, use the camera's selftimer or get the $10 remote, this will help to reduce image blurr.

3) Use manual focus

4) shoot at eye level with the subject, don't shoot down thru the tank glass, have the lens parallel with the tank glass. This may mean you'll have to move some corals around inorder to get the correct shot, but well worth the effort. The image below took me about 30 minutes to stage, as I had to do all the prep work, then move the coral to a correct position in the tank and then makes sure that when the polyp opened that it was also parallel with the glass inorder to get the full depth of field for the entire polyp

Here is a basic way to understand how to use the fstop.
Clean the glass on the inside and outside, use a tripod, use a remote or self timer, use manual focus and pick a subject in the tank. Set the camera to "A" mode then dial the fstop down to 2.8 or 3.5 (whatever is lower on your lens) take a shot, then adjust the fstop up 1 setting, take another shot, adjust up 1 more setting and continue to do this till you run thru all the fstop ranges. You'll notice that the shutter stay open longer with each adjustment of the fstop. Don't move the camera or change anything else while doing this. Then review the images on your PC and you'll see how this changes the depth of field.

hope this helps

 

[MisterTang]

That photo is incredible! Holy crap. Thanks for the advice.

Did you take that with your macro lens?

 

[NikonGuy]

For a first-time shooter period, those shots aren't as bad as you may think. I've held a few seminars and classes where some students would make you look pro lol. Anyhow, I'm not too good at shooting a reef tank environment yet either, but one day I'm going to take it a little more serious to gather wonderful results. If you want to understand depth of field like stated above, maybe just go from your largest aperture(lowest f/stop) - smallest aperture(highest f/stop)... that way the image are dramatically different and you could understand its purposes. The higher your ISO setting the more noise you will receive, but it also depends on the situation. In your fish tank, its possible to shoot at noise levels up to 3200 given the correct composition. I do reccommend you use a tripod and remote with mirror lock up and low ISO setting for your coral shots. You don't neccessarily have to stage the coral parrallel to the glass or shoot at eye level(but maybe its best if you're that inexperienced). Other than that, great shots you got there and no bashing from me buddy! Welcome to the dark side btw. There sure is alot of nikonians here eh?

 

[klepto]

I concur with the rest- your photos are far from travesties compared to some out there.

Maxalmon gave you and excellent few tips that I would definitely recommend- especially keeping your lens parallel to the glass, otherwise getting a sharp image will be very difficult.

One thing I would add:
Learn how to use your camera's light meter. This way you can "bracket" by intentionally over and underexposing the same image- your camera's display will vary from what your computer screen will look like (not to mention that all of our screens will differ). Shoot in manual - then you can manually choose your aperture and f-stop, essentially allowing you to control exactly where in your image you want to draw peoples attention.

hope this helps.

keep shooting.

jake

 

[MisterTang]

NikonGuy,
I have found that when I shoot at higher ISO levels, I get grainy shots. I am not sure how to compensate for that.

klepto,
I never use the display on my D40 - I always shoot through the viewfinder, mostly because I was getting frustrated with the display not representing what my shots looked like until after I took them. I know my camera has a light meter, but the extend of my knowledge is that it looks like a circle with yellow in it, and that it won't let me take a picture if it says "Subject is too dark".

It sounds like everyone unanimously suggests that I use manual mode. I'm already using a tripod in many cases, so I've got that covered (you'd think I have Parkinson's with how some of my non-tripod shots turn out). It sounds like I will need to do some reading, as I know how to put my camera in manual mode, but not change the fstop (unless it's commonly called something else on the menu).

Thanks for the encouragement. I will post some photos later this month using your ideas, and hopefully get some more help

 

[maxalmon]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13857495#post13857495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MisterTang

I have found that when I shoot at higher ISO levels, I get grainy shots. I am not sure how to compensate for that.

It sounds like everyone unanimously suggests that I use manual mode. I'm already using a tripod in many cases, so I've got that covered (you'd think I have Parkinson's with how some of my non-tripod shots turn out). It sounds like I will need to do some reading, as I know how to put my camera in manual mode, but not change the fstop (unless it's commonly called something else on the menu).

I use iso100-200 when shooting anything in my tank, really no reason to go higher IMO.

I used to have a D40 and if your in "A" mode the fstop adjustment is the thumb dial on the front right side of the camera
under/infront of the on-off control.

 

[maxalmon]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13852803#post13852803 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klepto

keeping your lens parallel to the glass, otherwise getting a sharp image will be very difficult.

Totally agree with klepto...I found that keeping the lens parallel to the tank is critical if you want to capture decent images. Even went so far as to setup a test series to see how important this was. Parallel images always looked sharper than images that were shot at an angle to the glass. I can only assume that the tank glass works like a prizm when your shooting at an angle and causes some type of deflection which cause image blur. Notice on A how the camera line intersects with the tankglass and creates the prizm effect while B doesn't

 

[MisterTang]

Well guys, I've taken the tips you've given me and tried new shots. Please don't be bashful in your critique

I am struggling with a washed-out look in some shots still. I did try the gradual aperture adjustment method, but it just never seemed to get any better on certain shots. Also, the parallel advice was great - I have a bowfront, so non-parallel shots look extra crappy.

 

[gkyle]

These latest photos are really nice. You might try forcing the camera to underexpose by one f-stop to see if that helps bring the colors out a little better. I have a D90 and it allows me to adjust the contrast levels inside the camera, if yours does also you might force a bit more contrast. Here is your ricordia photo I edited using Photo-Brush; I increased contrast quite a bit, droppe exposure by 1.0, and added saturation:

 

[MisterTang]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13975134#post13975134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gkyle
These latest photos are really nice. You might try forcing the camera to underexpose by one f-stop to see if that helps bring the colors out a little better. I have a D90 and it allows me to adjust the contrast levels inside the camera, if yours does also you might force a bit more contrast. Here is your ricordia photo I edited using Photo-Brush; I increased contrast quite a bit, droppe exposure by 1.0, and added saturation:

That's pretty cool, and a lot more accurate as to its' real appearance. Is the fStop option in the menu that shows the aperture and everything?

 

[gkyle]

On most cameras you can force this by overriding it's own metering, called exposure compensation. Or, you can set it to manual mode and play with the aperture and shutter speed to get the result you want.

 

[BobCReef]

On the D40 the exposure compensation should be a +/- button next to the on/off swith. Push the button and rotate the dial to the desired setting

 

[maxalmon]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13978674#post13978674 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BobCReef
On the D40 the exposure compensation should be a +/- button next to the on/off swith. Push the button and rotate the dial to the desired setting

Until you are comfortable with editing, try a setting of -1.0 on your EC control this will darken your images.

Also, turn your pumps off and let the corals rest for about 5 minutes before photographing.

This is kinda off topic, but have you had your eyes checked in a while, I can always tell when I need a new contact Rx as my images will never be in focus, the lens will compensate for for you vision being off as it will look great thru viewfinder and then crappy on screen....Your focus is off as that's why I'm asking

Your making progess, it's all a learning curve and you'll get there, just have to take lots of photos and get a feel for the camera

 

[maxalmon]

What white balance control are you using?

 

[ngn8dogg]

Hes using AWB . Isnt it better to shoot in RAW when shooting corals?

 

[klepto]

Great improvements Mr Tang! :eek1:

Keep them coming!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13984435#post13984435 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ngn8dogg
Hes using AWB . Isnt it better to shoot in RAW when shooting corals?

For me personally, RAW is the only way to shoot.

 

[TandN]

Great thread Im looking at the D40 myself. Ill basically only use it for my tank lol and dont have the money for a D90.

 

[AkaSlyGuy]

Hi Mr. Tang. I have the D40x and love the camera. I still have a LOT to learn about it though. Sometimes I get decent pic of my tank, and sometimes I don't. The best thing I have found is to just take LOTS of pics. The more you play the more you will understand. Here are a few I am pretty happy with. They are not perfect, but for my limited knowledge, hand held, moving subject, and no post processing ....I think I did ok.

Joe

PS - I am tagging along to learn as much as possible.

 

[Doahh]

On my D300 I use an ISO 1000 to 1200...

And to the person above I'd save more money and Get the D90 rather than the D40. The bigger screen and Newer Sensor are WELL worth it.
And you can use stuff like Wireless Commander Mode for an SB series flash...