DAS skimmer club

[carlos_fb]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10855036#post10855036 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DarG
Sounds like the Octopus. My Dual recirc. Octopus overskimmed until I lowered the output T fitting and it didnt draw near the air of the DAS EX-2. I've already modded the DAS and I just got it yesterday. I'm using the stock valves right now but they are wide open. Wide open there is still a restriction of about 1.5 LPM of air over running with the airline open. What I did was drop the output T about 2 or 3 inches lower. I installed a 1 1/4" gate valve reduced down for the 1" stock pipe. I used the larger valve for 2 reasons. One was that the opening in a 1" is slightly smaller than the actual inside diameter of 1" pipe. Also, you have finer control with the larger valve. Now I have a bunch more leeway to control water levels which allows more leeway in how much air I can allow the pumps to pull and how much flow into the skimmer I want. It was a no brainer for me to do the mod.
I also put a drain in the collection cup. Drilled through the bottom of the cup which is easy and not very risky at all because it's ABS, not acrylic. I used the drain from an old Top Fathom skimmer cup. It has a gasket and a plastic nut (instead of threading the ABS and screwing a barb fitting in).

Anyway ... I highly recommend the gate valve on the output. You dont need it but it allows for more air if you want it and also higher flow rates into the skimmer if you want to try that. Just gives more flexibility. Plus, there is no way that it wont work.

Still cant get over how small and quiet these pumps air compared to the usual Sedra, GenX and Octopus pumps ... and how much air they draw for the size, again compared to the much bulkier pumps I mentioned.

This is a real nice skimmer and the price compared to the skimmers they are designed after is great, even with the DAS price increase.

Can you post some pictures?

 

[DarG]

Carlos, these are the best I can do without taking the skimmer down. Sorry they arent great. It is pretty easy though. All I did was get a 1 1/4" gate valve. Glued a 1 1/4" to 1" reducing bushing in each end of the gate valve. Unscrew the stock union and remove the output pipe. Cut the pipe a couple of inches above the union. Glue that into one end of the gate valve. I used new pipe and fittings from here but you can use the existing grey pipe. You now have a left over piece of pipe with the output T and the vent and whatever piping that you attached to the output T. Cut that so that when you glue it into the gate valve and screw the union back together on the skimmer, the output T fitting will be about 2 - 3" lower than it was before. Now glue the end of the pipe into the other end of the gate valve. Make sure you glue it in so it is oriented at the angle that you need it to be to return to your sump or tank. You can also use threaded fittings so you can change things around or adjust the position of the return piping in relation to the gate valve.

The pictures arent that great but all you really cant see is the gate valve glued above the union.

 

[carlos_fb]

I get it now, it really makes sense. I will wait until I get mine and see if I actually need the mod.

Thanks for the pictures!

 

[PaintGuru]

Ok last of my stupid questions. Recall I have a 92 gal mixed reef (mostly zoas/palys at this point). With the size of my sump, I can fit the EX-1 into it, but not the EX-2. I could setup the EX-2 next to my tank without too much trouble, but then the question is how to plum it. I assume this is easy to do. I was thinking having a Maxijet or something pump water in from the sump vs. figuring out how to get it off of my overflow. What other considerations would I need to have when running it externally? Or would you just get the EX-1 and leave it in the sump? Thanks in advance.

 

[rishma]

PaintGuru -

I love big skimmers and tend to oversize them on my tanks (which I often regret), but really I think an Ex-1 will handle your tank very nicely. Ex-2 is likely overkill unless you had a heavily stocked SPS dominated reef. For your set-up, the Ex-1 will do very nicely.

there are some significant advantages to taking flow directly from your drain to your skimmer. You are skimming raw overflow that is richest in organics and it is more efficient because you do not have to add another pump. I do not know your set-up, but taking a branch off the overflow usually is not too much trouble.

 

[PaintGuru]

Thanks rishma. It would probably be easier to do if the skimmer was in the sump, which the EX-1 would be. I was just worried about more points of failure if the skimmer was outside the sump area.

As for which model, I just don't want undersize it and regret it later on. I don't see myself ever going back to SPS, so perhaps you are right that the EX-1 would be sufficient. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[USC-fan]

I would go with the ex-1 also.

 

[USC-fan]

Here is some info for the new DAS owners here....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8712700#post8712700 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by UCanDoIt
There are 3 controls on the skimmer:

1. INPUT controlled by gravity feed from overflow with ball or gate valve "or" pump feed with a correctly rated pump

2. OUTPUT controlled by ball or gate valve at skimmer's drain

3. AIRFLOW controlled by air valve


To set your skimmer correctly:

1. first you must be sure the water flow through rate is matched to your skimmer. most of the time, for gravity feed, one would need to tailor the rate back by ball or gate valve in control #1 as the water turnover rate is usually much stronger than your skimmer can accept. or you can feed skimmer with a correctly rated pump or powerhead.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Gravity_Feed_Plumbing.jpg">

2. next, with the water flow through rate adjusted correctly, the water level within the skimmer must be at the right level for the skimmer to perform optimally. water level should just at the bottom edge of the bayonet connection between the collection cup and skimmer body. the highest water level you should have is no higher than the top edge of the bayonet top edge and the lowest is no lower than 3/4" below the bayonet connection. i like the skimmer water level on the high side, so even when the water flow through rate is correct, the water level is too low for me. so, in order to tailor back the outflow from the skimmer drain and to raise the water level within the skimmer, i use a ball valve or gate valve on the output, which is control #2, and the drain does terminate underwater in my sump. so, the comment that the outflow should not be underwater is a preferred situation, but works great even if you terminate underwater (unless with the correct water flow through rate, the water level in your skimmer is already at the top edge of the bayonet). all that happens when the exhaust terminates underwater is puts a little backpressure on the system, but that just increases the water level in the skimmer, which in my situation is on the low side when the water flow through rate adjusted correctly. the benefit of having the drain terminate underwater is no splashing noise at all, but your sump water level must remain constant or the change can put variable backpressure on the exhaust. i found that the best sump water level is within an inch below the exhaust T-fitting.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Deltec_Water_Level-med.jpg">

3. adjust the air valve for maximum foaming with control #3. on both my Deltec and H&S skimmers that i own, it is tailored back approximately 1/4 - 1/3 which gives me the finest bubbles and good foaming head. if the bubble breaking level isn't correct, close down the exhaust valve a little to raise or open up to lower.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Deltec_Bubble_Break_Level-med.jpg">

HTH, this is just one example of how it can work. many others have different ways that they setup their skimmers.

 

[DarG]

I have a 90. EX-1 would do the job, I'm sure. Probably with a heavyily stocked tank as well. I went with the EX-2. It's oversized but I dont think it's too much skimmer for a 90.

As far as feeding it from the overflow directly, mine is plumbed externally and I have no real feasible way to do it because of where I have to locate the skimmer.

Paint Guru ... as far as plumbing it externally, it's easy. You have the feed figured out with a MJ. For return you can use flexible hose or Vinly tubing off of the return to get it back to the sump. or just overhang the return over the sump with hard PVC. You just need to make sure that the return from the skimmer doesnt have to travel upwards. A fairly short horizontal run and then a vertical run downwards intom the sump. Mine is on a shelf above the sump and In use flexible hose down to the sump. Actually it dumps into a 100 micron filter bag to eat up all the bubbles.

 

[PaintGuru]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I think I'll go EX-1 then. If I ever get a larger tank, I'll get a new skimmer, but I think I will likely always have a tank this size so the skimmer will stick around a while. Plus, I can save a little $$ getting the EX-1!

 

[DarG]

Good post USC-fan. If I may add one thing for the DAS users who are still using the stock air control valves. I know I'm repeating myself but ... the stock valves do restrict airflow even fully wide open. So, you probably wont need to back off on the air flow as much with those valves vs the ones used on the deltecs. The stock DAS valves restrict flow, again, about 1.5 LPM, maybe a little less compared to running the airlines without any valve. I measured with a Dwyer guage.

Also, for the type of complete control posted above, you would need a gate valve on the DAS output other wise you are limited to adjust water height by the input valve only. Also, by how much you submerse the output underwater but IMO that is not a reliable method unless your sump level never varies.

 

[USC-fan]

With the stock valves i still leave them at 1-2 o'clock to get the best skimming. I use a mj1200 wide open and don;t need a gate valve at all.

After you set it up the way you like it to skim you shouldn't have to mess with the valves again.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10861918#post10861918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaintGuru
Thanks everyone for the tips. I think I'll go EX-1 then. If I ever get a larger tank, I'll get a new skimmer, but I think I will likely always have a tank this size so the skimmer will stick around a while. Plus, I can save a little $$ getting the EX-1!

DAS ex-1 can handle a 180gal tank. There was a guy in the other DAS thread who was running a 180gal display with 20 fish with the ex-1. And that was a SPS dominated reef tank!

 

[USC-fan]

well after 6 months of ozone use my air valve stop working. So i went ahead and order the ER valves. There has to be a better place to order them from. It cost me $20 with shipping for 2 valves.....

 

[rishma]

I actually prefer the clamp from H&S. It is not as intuitive as a valve, but allows you to go fully open without the valve restriction on air intake. once you figure out how the clamp works, metering air is easy. Ozone will not damage the clamp because it is on the outside of the hose. You can also use the clamp on larger diameter tubing.

 

[USC-fan]

Talking about this?

 

[rishma]

yes

 

[GreenUku]

So has anyone gotten their skimmer in from Orca? I'm still waiting....

This is really ridiculous, considering I placed an order in JULY!!! And if I wanted to cancel and go with Petorama, the price on the EX-1 is now $26 higher than it was...



My patience astounds me

 

[uhuru]

Your patience is astounding...

 

[GreenUku]

Second only to my laziness...

 

[kodyboy]

I second the laziness