Delicious country water

serpentman

part time superhero
I can't see so well, is it good when iced tea comes from your faucet? Gotta love well water! This is what recently came out of my tap. We are seriously battling with our builder now.


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Before I battled the builder.
I would set up a list of cost to redrill the well, repair all landscaping involved. And I would put it across as a certified letter to indicate your requirements to the builder in this manner rather than telephone calls. This letter would be more effective close copied to local office (county or city/township) that issue permits for contractors to operate in their jurisdiction. Another effective party to close copy is the director or regional manager of the insurance company that the builder uses to insure his bond or liability if you can find out who the carrier is. Local jurisdiction that issues the permit to operate for builders would have that on file. Maybe it's different out where you are at. But in the city and burbs you can find these out with a pleasant conversation with the inspectors. (bring doughnuts and coffee).

Back to cert letter to builder and closed copies....
I would indicate a reasonable date of compliance with your request without any threats vailed or otherwise in writing. Vague language speaks more powerfully in this case.
If it goes nowhere within that time period it's time to bring in Kanwee, Dickem, & Howe Aty's. Oh yeah, on the phone things like you might consider a billboard facing the main drag you live on so others will know to avoid this builder might be a nice touch too, but only on the phone...lol

I have fought tooth and nail with HUD and contractors and have had a great track record of getting what I wanted and not have to get the lawyers into the loop. Who knows, maybe you'll be as lucky? Stinks that a property and house as nice as yours has water issues. Hope it works out without a major fight. Oh yeah you need to double check sales contract whether house had assumed new home warranty or that there are no as is or not responsible for unforseen natural phenomenon (like dry well despite their cutting the corner by not drilling deep enough).
 
Hi,
Ever think of calling one of the TV channels? I would tell your builder that if this is not resolved by a certain date that the TV station would be called.

Dave
 
Don't you miss Mentor now? :D That's some nasty water. It almost looks like they went to deep and are getting the sediment at the bottom of the aquifer.
 
I tell you what, that is one thing I do miss about Mentor. We had awesome water with a ton of pressure to boot.

My real estate agent has been excellent throughout this and has written a letter on my behalf. I have an independent company coming out this week that is going to inspect the well and all the associated plumbing to see if it can be salvaged before I pursue a new one. He seemed to think there is a solution.

I give my RO/DI unit kudos as it took this crap down to 1-2ppm. However, I already need to replace one of the sediment prefilters. Definitely can't run a reef like this long term.
 
Yeah, even if it did occasionally smell like Lake Erie. Good luck getting this resolved. I used to live in Chesterland and don't miss well water at all.
 
Curious?? Why is this the builders fault? Not saying you are wrong, just trying to figure out why the builder and not the well company? Also curious if all of the recent rain could have effected the well. Are your neighbor having similar issues? Regardless, you are right to take issue.
 
No offense taken. We bought the house (new construction) in late June 2007 and had our first episode of red water within the first 3 days. Since then, we have had red water episodes every 3-4 weeks. This is even in light of changing the sediment filters once a week when they should last every 30-90days.
 
Here's the latest chapter in my water struggle. I elevated things with the builder and were able to get some movement. In the meantime, my RO unit was roasted. After 1 week in use, the membrane was cooked and the DI resin exhausted which resulted in TDS readings around 60ppm.

However, I digress. We finally had these installed as a last ditch approach before digging a new hole in the ground. No one will be able to say I wasn't patient or open minded. Plus the well company told me there was no guarantee I would hit better water.

The good news is the pH out of the tap is now around 7.5. The bad news is for all the bad stuff these take out, they put twice as much "good stuff" back in, effectively doubling the TDS going into the RO/DI unit. Consequently, I will need more DI units in line.

From the right to the left:

Pressure tank, pH Neutralizer, Green sand iron filter, 20 micron sediment filter, water softener, RO/DI unit, softener salt reservoir, potassium permanganate reservoir.


filters.jpg
 
Hi,

Are you running your Ro/DI with water from the ouput of your softner? By your picture it looks like you pulling the water for your RO/DI right from the well. If that's the case I would run the RO/DI off of your softner output.

Dave
 
I will definitely look up AZ. I remember he helped me a long while back on an unrelated issue.

Dave, the RO/DI unit ties into the output of the softener. Before the new equipment I was getting TDS readings around 240 on the input. Now they are around 350. Its likely the addition of calcium, magnesium and salt.
 
Thats a good question. I'll let you know once they are all up and running for a while. My guess is it isn't going to be cheap.
 
Figured I would post a little update on my lovely water situation. Noticed something wasn't quite right in my frag tank, either cyano or flagellates. Just checked my source water....140TDS!!!!!! It was creaping up to ~20 a few days ago. Thankfully, my new RO membrane should be here tomorrow. I would have been better off using my pond water at this point. Now I have to scrap 55g of mixed SW :(

I don't miss Mentor much. But city water/sewer does have its advantages.
 
Do you think it might be better to pull the water from the pond. I have a friend in Lagrange that does it and his water is great.
Wayne
 
We had to get an Aqua brand iron filter. All it does is oxidize the iron which then precipitates out. It recharges every night (flushes precipitate down the drain). Then all of the other filtration. No nasty chemicals to mess with.

http://aquasystems.com/index.aspx
 
I will look into it. From what I gather, my pH neutralizer uses calcium carbonate to raise the incoming pH. The green sand filter oxidizes the iron in a Magnesium media and backwashes with Potassium Permagenate to kill any iron bacteria. Then the water softener does an ion exchange to balance hardness. By the time my water reaches my RO/DI unit, it is rich in Sodium, Calcium and Mg and still some Iron which will all dramatically reduce membrane life. Ironically, I am working to remove all these minerals just to turn around and put them back in. I figure given the sedimentation, I am also probably heavy in silicates.
 
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