DI water only

[artful-dodger]

"cati/ani" is generally used to denote separate resin beds. Same stuff, mixed together, is "mixed bed"

You can use the same cannisters/cartridges as you use for mixed bed, just placed in series.

I do the bypass valve on my setup...during the summer months, my waste water is directed outside to water shrubs. During the winter, I bypass the RO to avoid dumping all that down the drain.

I do the recharge thing...getting ready to start up again for the spring since I don't want to mess with the stuff in the closed house during the winter.

Try checking spectrapure.com for equipment and bulk resins. There are other sources, but Spectrapure has it all (even though their website is a little tough to navigate--some things are filed under non-intuitive headings. It looks like they added a search function since the last time I ordered, which is good news.)

They also offer a larger capacity cartridge that works with the standard cannisters and brackets.

 

[ReefEnabler]

thanks!

http://www.spectrapure.com/St_replac_p5.htm

I did find the spectrapure bulk resins. couldn't find it from their site (same issues u mention), but google did the trick!!


Seems like alot of options to consider!!!

I recently bought both Maxcap and SilicaBuster resins from them. I haven't even taken them out of the mylar bag yet.... are these 'cartidges' possible to open up and replace the resin??????

I notice they sell the resin needed to make up a new SilicaBuster resin, which is both mixed-bed mixed with extra Anion.

Seems like doing it that way would really complicate the whole 'recharging' part.... how would you go about separating the anions/cations for recharging?

Would it be best to forego the whole Maxcap/SB thing and just have one canister purely anion, an another purely cation? I notice they dont seem to have Resin for the MaxCap anyways.

I know the main reason for having the MaxCap in addition to the SB is so you have to replace the expensive resin less often. Seems like separate Anion/Cation resins would make recharging easier but you would lose the long life from the other combination.

This is starting to make sense but I'm still not ready to make any decisions.

Great thread (and a blast from the past!)

 

[artful-dodger]

I have found that keeping them in two separate cannisters is (by far) the simplest. I don't think you lose any lifetime at all, but I haven't tested. If you're recharging, it really doesn't matter. You can recharge one quart or one gallon of resin for about the same price.

I'm currently running 8 positions on my system (with the RO stage being bypassable)...For the final four, I use two of the Spectrapure MaxCap containers for cation and anion resins and then pass the water through my original two mixed bed cannisters. It is overkill, but I get 0 ppm for months without having to change resins.

There is an old post around here with a link to instructions for separating the mixed bed resins...I have a copy at home, but can probably find the link again. I haven't done it yet, but I have been saving all of my exhausted mixed bed to give it a shot. (My plan is to never buy resins again.)

---------------
I took a long phone call and got locked out of editing my earlier post so I'll add one additional comment:


For a pre-engineered system (especially for high production volumes), you should PM Kip (ktani) about the Aquatechnik systems...he's posted in this thread before. The solution isn't cheap but it is the one that all of our "ghetto" systems try to emulate.

 

[ReefEnabler]

interesting setup.
" and then pass the water through my original two mixed bed cannisters."

So the final two stages are just normal DI mixed bed canisters? How does this fit into your rechargable DI design? or did you mean that you're just using these until they are exhausted and then you'll refill with something else?

 

[lechee12]

malulu - thank you for the kent regeneration instruction. Can you also post the kati/ani instructions as well, i wonder is there much of a difference??

 

[malulu]

lechee12,
the steps is about the same, i have it in a booklet, too many info to retype them here... however, i found a link that someone already post the essential pages out here: http://forum.petstore.com/Topic70811-14-5.aspx
good luck.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12444045#post12444045 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lechee12
malulu - thank you for the kent regeneration instruction. Can you also post the kati/ani instructions as well, i wonder is there much of a difference??

 

[artful-dodger]

Ryan...that was sort of the original thought...I had (and still have) quite a bit of bulk mixed resin. What I've found is that the stuff is basically lasting forever with this setup...I could easily go another year at this rate.

I am saving all the mixed bed resin and plan to separate it and recharge it...eventually, I will either take those two cannisters out of service or just run two cation and two anion...we'll see...

By the way...I've used two mixed bed cannisters for years...as #1 is exhausted, I move #2 to position #1 and then move a fresh cannister into the "polish" position. It doesn't use any more resin in the long run and it does give a cushion against one bad characteristics of DI...once it is exhausted (before the color is fully changed!) it starts releasing c*** back into the output water. You can easily get a higher TDS reading than your original tap water if you don't monitor carefully.

So, the final recommendation...get one of the permanent installation TDS monitors with two inputs...I didn't use the portable TDS monitor often enough...the permanent one lets you sample both input and output water in 2 seconds. Great investment whenever you do start replumbing!

 

[lechee12]

malulu - thanks for the link

i've tried googling it, but can't seem to find a link that details how to separate mix bed resins, anybody have instructions for me before i order some pre-separated ones online??

thanks

 

[rick rottet]

i've never seen any instructions for separating a mixed bed, but i have heard a lot of talk about it. according to hearsay... the resins are different densities, so supposedly a person could put both resins into a container of water, then slowly raise the specific gravity and one resin would float before the other. then simply scoop the one that floats first off the surface.

 

[malulu]

if you think too much trouble to separate them, apart, just get a two individual ones instead, they aren;t that expensive anyway...

here is some link i corrected about a two months ago (price wise):

DEION-200 - $192
http://www.kentmarine.com/waterfilters/deionizers/deion-200.htm

0.5 Micro Cabon Filter 10" - $17.95
http://storefront.addictiveaquatics.com/products/5_Micron_Carbon_Filter_10_in-1477-184.html

Cation Resin 18 oz - $12.95
http://storefront.addictiveaquatics.com/products/Cation_Resin_18_oz-1682-184.html

Anion Resin 18 oz - $27.95
http://storefront.addictiveaquatics.com/products/Anion_Resin_18_oz-1681-184.html

18 + 13 + 28 = $59

CFRA KENT MARINE CLEAR REFILLABLE CARTRIDGE
http://storefront.addictiveaquatics...RINE_CLEAR_REFILLABLE_CARTRIDGE-1475-184.html

 

[wolfofstone]

2 Great DI units W TDS METERS

2 Great DI units W TDS METERS

AIRWATERICE.COM
AirWaterIce.com
checkout these 2 units.

This Store is great. great products and they sponsor the site!!!!!


http://www.airwaterice.com/product/...I_unit_Small_commercial_with_TDS_monitor.html

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1DOUBDIDUALTDS/Twin_DI_with_Dual_inline_TDS_Meter.html

 

[wolfofstone]

RO/DI doesnt waste water

RO/DI doesnt waste water

The DI washing sounds like it does more wasting and damage to the environment than ro/di.

If you dont like wasting water, you can lead the waste line out side to your plants and garden.

You can also pick up a ro/di unit for $$150 for a 75 gpd.

You will save that in resin withing your first few 100 gallons.

I have at least 1000 gallons on my system and havent changed a DI filter.
Not only that, you can get a combo system and have good drinking water. Why drink it if it can kill your fish!

You can even get a 7 stage 200 GPD with 3 DI anion, cation and mixed. for less than $400 priced @ airwaterice.com