Did I goof my Bean Animal plumbing

mr9iron

15& Over Club
Premium Member
My external box has 3/4 inch uniseals so I exited the box a few inches then up sized my pipe to 1 inch. Then I placed my gate valve right below that.

Will this cause my Bean Animal to not work as it should?

08e5f0c26e351d6fade369422cada14b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Personally I would try to use bulkheads over uniseals in that application


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Personally I would try to use bulkheads over uniseals in that application


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I understand your concern, however Modular Marine ensures me they will be fine.

What do you think about the rest of the plumbing though?

Over the last 20 some years in reefing I have used Dursos and Herbie but never a Bean Animal. And I've certainly never used different sized plumbing.

I was horsing around with the parts I had when I plumbed this tank and as an afterthought discovered it could be a potential problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Uniseals are totally fine.. I prefer them over bulkheads now..

As to whatever you have screwing up your bean.. Nope.. I don't see anything that would do that..

What problems are you actually having?
Can you post more pictures showing everything else not shown? (whats inside the overflow box.. where the pipes go in the sump,etc...)
Or maybe you are just asking to prevent issues before they arise and don't have a problem (yet)?
 
Uniseals are totally fine.. I prefer them over bulkheads now..

As to whatever you have screwing up your bean.. Nope.. I don't see anything that would do that..

What problems are you actually having?
Can you post more pictures showing everything else not shown? (whats inside the overflow box.. where the pipes go in the sump,etc...)



I haven't actually finished the plumbing yet. I was tasked with cooking dinner on the grill by my lovely wife. So, I am hoping to complete it this weekend.
9db48fb3652f4c1db45e3caa72b29e99.jpg
b4ee84e4f777ee6227b977228ba657c1.jpg
89b4ed00e7db382beb5867134d891179.jpg
079d5d65d5efd110b7500dfe36dc069f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mcgyvr,

I'm not having any problems as it's not actually running. I just wanted to check in with others before I started gluing things together.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can't see with the reflection of the sump. But you need to make sure the siphon line is below the running water level in that chamber. This will make it difficult with the socks but the siphon needs to start to work properly and it wont without the output being submerged

Also what you're running is a Herbie and not a bean. You need three drains to be a bean

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I can't see with the reflection of the sump. But you need to make sure the siphon line is below the running water level in that chamber. This will make it difficult with the socks but the siphon needs to start to work properly and it wont without the output being submerged

Also what you're running is a Herbie and not a bean. You need three drains to be a bean

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk



My main drain will be an inch or two below the water line but that is yet to be determined as I haven't done the wet test.

Also, I am not running a Herbie, I am running a Bean Animal. You just don't see the third drain ad I'm waiting on a new unit seal.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm a big proponent of having the gate valves closer to where the water leaves. Not sure if there's any physics behind making things work better, but it tends to make things easier to fiddle with if necessary.

A couple things I do see however is that gate valve might be a bit difficult to adjust facing the wall like that.
-Is the image some how reversed in the top down shot? I see another gate valve? (this time pointing more sideways), I thought the Bean only did a gate valve on the primary drain (I may be wrong on this though).
-Where is the emergency drain? I see a hole(?) in the overhead picture, but it's not centered at all (My MM overflow had the holes all centered). I assume it's coming through the hole on the back of the stand from the sump pic? If not rethink criss crossing the pipes around.
 
I'm a big proponent of having the gate valves closer to where the water leaves. Not sure if there's any physics behind making things work better, but it tends to make things easier to fiddle with if necessary.

A couple things I do see however is that gate valve might be a bit difficult to adjust facing the wall like that.
-Is the image some how reversed in the top down shot? I see another gate valve? (this time pointing more sideways), I thought the Bean only did a gate valve on the primary drain (I may be wrong on this though).
-Where is the emergency drain? I see a hole(?) in the overhead picture, but it's not centered at all (My MM overflow had the holes all centered). I assume it's coming through the hole on the back of the stand from the sump pic? If not rethink criss crossing the pipes around.



The gate valve next to the wall is no problem. I have enough room to adjust it as needed. I only have one ball valve. I do wish I would have put it down lower as suggested.

The holes on the MM are not centered. Two on one end and one on the other. I had to cut the bulkheads to make the emergency drain and secondary drain fit.

My next problem is balancing the drain. I've tried every configuration I could think of and it will not work.

What did work was when I pulled of the internal drain box. Then the Bean animal balances nicely. However, I'm left without an internal overflow and just bulkheads.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When you "balances" what do you mean?

Unless I'm thinking wrong, I seem to recall most all of the flow goes through the primary drain, there should be no sound, gurgle or bubbles in your sump from this, restrict the flow on your valve until that happens. The secondary drain should have a trickle of flow going down it, as a result won't be very loud either. If too much water goes down it means your standpipe in the overflow box should be taller.
 
Back
Top