Dino Battle

TokiHacker

New member
Alright guys,


So i have been fighting dino now for months....

Blackouts, smaller feedings, no WC's.... I just cant seem to get it gone.


Parameters are in check (nitrate 0 and phosphates 0)

still trying to beat them....

200g tank dual reactor running GFO and Carbon 100g sump skimmer filter socks etc, chateo in sump.

let me know if there is anything i am missing?

thanks,

Toki
 
you're missing on identifying the strain and potentially causing your issues by keeping nutrients at zero which is actually a bad thing.
having nearly undetectable nutrients is what they really mean. undetectable just means your corals are suffering and you're setting up an environment for those dinos.
 
you're missing on identifying the strain and potentially causing your issues by keeping nutrients at zero which is actually a bad thing.
having nearly undetectable nutrients is what they really mean. undetectable just means your corals are suffering and you're setting up an environment for those dinos.



So shut down the skimmer and the reactor? Coral and all is doing very well



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bump. What are some solutions that might help??


I have read extensively on Dino-x and might give that a shot but I also read very effective solutions using hydrogen peroxide 3%.


Now is this something like you get at the pharmacy??

Thanks,


Toki
 
A more natural way, weird as it seems, is to let algae beat it. They are winning because you aren't giving the tank nutrients. Allowing some nutrients to get in the tank, and some algae to grow will, I believe, fight them back. Other have had success with peroxide, I don't have a bottle handy but I think any over the counter peroxide should work.
 
A more natural way, weird as it seems, is to let algae beat it. They are winning because you aren't giving the tank nutrients. Allowing some nutrients to get in the tank, and some algae to grow will, I believe, fight them back. Other have had success with peroxide, I don't have a bottle handy but I think any over the counter peroxide should work.

Thanks for the response.


I will check the hydrogen peroxide under the cabinet at home :)

I am just sick of seeing it. Id rather see coralline algae than that!!
 
A more natural way, weird as it seems, is to let algae beat it. They are winning because you aren't giving the tank nutrients. Allowing some nutrients to get in the tank, and some algae to grow will, I believe, fight them back. Other have had success with peroxide, I don't have a bottle handy but I think any over the counter peroxide should work.

This is how I beat them a couple years back, called the "dirty method". I opened the skimmer drain tube back into the tank, and fed more until green hair algae started to take over. After that I started adding pods, phyto and some fresh from the ocean live sand and live rock to re-establish biodiversity (some of the bottom of the food chain can eat dino's) that I believe I destroyed by using GFO too aggressively. After the Dino's receded a good bit of maintenance and water changes brought the tank back to a healthy balance.

Dino's outbreaks often seem to be caused by trying to make a tank too clean, too fast.
 
This is how I beat them a couple years back, called the "dirty method". I opened the skimmer drain tube back into the tank, and fed more until green hair algae started to take over. After that I started adding pods, phyto and some fresh from the ocean live sand and live rock to re-establish biodiversity (some of the bottom of the food chain can eat dino's) that I believe I destroyed by using GFO too aggressively. After the Dino's receded a good bit of maintenance and water changes brought the tank back to a healthy balance.

Dino's outbreaks often seem to be caused by trying to make a tank too clean, too fast.

Not something I would ever think could be bad. I have never in 15 years had to deal with Dino but this stuff is awful.
 
Yeah I have searched those.... Mostly all that I have read. This may work, this may work. Seems like it is a back and forth with no true answer.
I think the trick is to identify what kind you have and match your plan to their weaknesses. They have different behaviors at night for example. Ones that go in the water columb are susceptible to UV sterilization while those that go into the sandbed at night are not, just as an example.

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Well I am going to dose hydrogen peroxide and blackout and hope to god. I have been wanting to add uv sterilizer.... just don't know a good affordable brand


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I believe I got them the same way last Spring, with undetectable nutrients. Within a month I was able to get rid of them.
I had a UV hooked up to my tank 24/7 for a few months, but because it was so cramped under the stand and a pain to do any work under there I removed it. When I had the Dino outbreak I wanted to set up the UV again. What I did was hook up the UV to a spare canister filter I had laying around. The canister was run without any media, it was just to pump water through the UV. I had it on a timer to run overnight when the lights were off and the Dino was in the free floating stage in the water column. I would also take a turkey baster and blast off all the Dino from the rocks and corals before the lights turned off. I did this everyday for about two weeks and by the third week the Dino was almost gone. I continued running the UV for another two weeks before removing it from the tank.
While all this was going on I let the HA that was in the refugium take off and grow and added some Chaeto as well. I now keep the NO3 at 5 and the PO4 at .02 - .03 and feel this is the sweet spot for my tank that keeps everything balanced. When the nutrients start to climb I'll harvest some Chaeto or dose if they fall below the range I like to keep them at. This has worked for me and haven't seen a trace of Dino since.
 
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