Dino Problem (Water Change)

[shackman]

I have been battling Dino and have not done a water change in about a month. I am now starting to get cyno but it seems that the Dino is Clearing up. Should I now do a water change to deal with the cyno or will the Dino start up again? Also my tank has only been set up for about 2 1/2 months.

 

[joeychitwood]

You should do regular water changes. What kind of water are you using? I had problems with diatoms and other nuisance algae before I purchased an RO/DI unit.

 

[shackman]

Dino Problem (Water Change)

I use an ro/di fro the filterguys, I read not to do water changes because the Dino will thrive even more.

 

[808Rob]

If I tested my tap water for nitrates and it tested 0, would I still need an ro/di unit to prevent diatoms and cyano?
I'm pretty sure the ro/di unit will purify the tap for chlorines and other chemicals but I'm focusing on preventing diatoms and cyano.

 

[Nanz]

You have to perform water changes or the cyano will begin to thrive off the excess NO3. Dino's also thrive off of water changes. The solution is to keep the tank covered in darkness and raise the pH to 8.5-8.6. Dinos cannot survive in that pH and need light. Then you can perform reqular weekly water changes. Just make sure after the water change you check the pH and make sure its above 8.5.

 

[dcombs44]

If I tested my tap water for nitrates and it tested 0, would I still need an ro/di unit to prevent diatoms and cyano?
I'm pretty sure the ro/di unit will purify the tap for chlorines and other chemicals but I'm focusing on preventing diatoms and cyano.

No. Reverse Osmosis Deonization reverts water to nearly its purest state.

Other than using a dechlorinator with tap water, you have no idea what else is in there that can harm your reef.

People keep successful tanks with tap, but your safest route is RO/DI. Simply because you don't know what you're putting in the tank with tap. Excess nutrients in tap water can definitely lead to algae problems. There aren't any nitrates because it's full of chlorine. Aerate the tap water for 24 hours, then test it for nitrates.

 

[mihamlet]

Agree with posts...Use RO/DI if at all possible, local fish stores often carry it for reasonable price. Tap water can be scary, never know what is in it.

 

[sedor]

I use an ro/di fro the filterguys, I read not to do water changes because the Dino will thrive even more.

He used an RODI unit. Nanz provided the simple answer. The question is how to raise your ph safely... look into raising ph in a reef. Probably the simplest method is to purchase a buffer kit, but you can also use baking soda. In order for it not to affect your alkalinity, your going to want to bake it in the over at 300 for a while. Do some research on how much to add etc before you go dumping baking soda in your tank though.

 

[dcombs44]

He used an RODI unit.

I was responding to a question that was raised by someone other than the OP. I think MiHamlet was responding to my response....I think...
See 808Rob's post a ways up.

 

[808Rob]

No. Reverse Osmosis Deonization reverts water to nearly its purest state.

Other than using a dechlorinator with tap water, you have no idea what else is in there that can harm your reef.

People keep successful tanks with tap, but your safest route is RO/DI. Simply because you don't know what you're putting in the tank with tap. Excess nutrients in tap water can definitely lead to algae problems. There aren't any nitrates because it's full of chlorine. Aerate the tap water for 24 hours, then test it for nitrates.

Thanks for the tip on testing for nitrates. I never would have thought to aerate for 24hrs.

 

[dcombs44]

Thanks for the tip on testing for nitrates. I never would have thought to aerate for 24hrs.

I'm not even sure if it will end up showing nitrates, but aerating it would help with the ammonia, so I figured, you may get a truer reading on the end product that way. Either way, RO/DI is the safest bet, and not all that expensive.