Dinoflagellates.

Update from post 3695 and 3700

I continue to be "Dino free" since April 2016. Im still running UV during the night and dare not to stop that trend even though I have not seen a string in a very long time. I've slowly added 20 SPS frags since May and all are growing very nicely. Some already small colonies.

After a long battle of 7 months with these Dinos I am finally enjoying my tank to the fullest. I belive my year and a half reef is finally out of the ugliest.
My approach I did to beat them is in the 3695 post. I know that no one Dinos method works for all or even 2 for that matter.

I wanted to share my update sine I was encouraged myself when fellow reefers posted positive results. In hindsight I wish I would have taken more full tank pictures when the Dios was at its worst. Since this one was just the tip of the iceberg.

BEFORE:
20160325_143519_zpszvy1mkpl.jpg



AFTER:
20161013_113931_zpsttxdotbk.jpg
 
Update from post 3695 and 3700

I continue to be "Dino free" since April 2016. Im still running UV during the night and dare not to stop that trend even though I have not seen a string in a very long time. I've slowly added 20 SPS frags since May and all are growing very nicely. Some already small colonies.

After a long battle of 7 months with these Dinos I am finally enjoying my tank to the fullest. I belive my year and a half reef is finally out of the ugliest.
My approach I did to beat them is in the 3695 post. I know that no one Dinos method works for all or even 2 for that matter.

I wanted to share my update sine I was encouraged myself when fellow reefers posted positive results. In hindsight I wish I would have taken more full tank pictures when the Dios was at its worst. Since this one was just the tip of the iceberg.

Great news.

Do you continue doing the blackouts every week or after some days?

What are your parameters of your tank at this moment?

What food and what's the amount are you using to feed your fish/corals?
 
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Great news.

Do you continue doing the blackouts every week or after some days?

What are your parameters of your tank at this moment?

I have not done a blackout since early June. I'm dosing 2 part Alk and Cal at a rate of 45ml a day to keep me at my 9.1 dkH target. I'm also doing about 15 percent water changes every 2 weeks.

Temp 81-83 Apex
PH 7.84 min at night and 8.20 max during day Apex
Alk 9.0 dKH. Red sea
Cal 415 ppm Red sea
MAG 1350 ppm Red sea
Nitrate 10ppm Red sea
Phosphate 0.03 ppm Hanna Checker
Specific gravity 1.026 Refactometer
ORP min 474 max 497 Apex

I don't test or monitor anything else.
 
What food and what's the amount are you using to feed your fish/corals?

125 gallon tank. With 1 Blue tang, 2 clowns, 1 chromis, and 3 gobies.

I feed almost exclusively frozen food. I alternate between....

Hikari :Brine shrimp, Mysis, and Squid. I alternate 1 cube of Haikari every day.

Rods food: Pacific Plankton, Original, I alternate between the two and LRS.

LRS reef freenzy

And Nori from the food store

Very minimal instant Ocean Marine chips( like once a week sprinkled in with the frozen) I feel like I need to add this just to supplement and nutrition they might not be getting with just frozen. I don't want to add Selcon for supplementation because it promotes Cyano in MY tank.

I feed one cube of Hikari and about one cube of Rods or LRS a day ( Rod and LRS are flat sheets so I try to break off the equivalent of one cube).
So 2 cubes a day thawed in RODI and strained with Brine shrimp net. Along with 1/4 sheet of nori daily.
It looks like a snow storm at feeding time.

Edit: I also feed BRS reef chili about once evert 3 days. 4 scoops of the BRS provided spoon.
 
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Thanks for your reply, for what you are feeding and no more dinos in your tank I can say they are gone.

In my case if I add frozen food or reef roids with coral frenzy dinos start to appear from nowhere in just a few minutes.

Good luck and I hope you never get back this bastards.
 


Vibrant Reef Aquarium Cleaner 16oz Algae Control

I've seen the owner of this stuff claiming it will beat Dino's. Here's what he claims it contains


Vibrant Liquid Aquarium Cleaner Ingredients -

95% Cultured Bacteria Blend
1% Amino Acids (Aspartic Acid)
0.5% Vinegar - This is used as the preservative
3.5% Other Ingredients (RO/DI Water)

Doesn't appear too dangerous to try. I beat my dino's by overdosing live phyto and UV.
 
I also saw that in another forum where Jeff claim it beats different strain of Dinos, not sure about the Ostreo. will order a bottle and see what happen.

Vibrant Reef Aquarium Cleaner 16oz Algae Control

I've seen the owner of this stuff claiming it will beat Dino's. Here's what he claims it contains


Vibrant Liquid Aquarium Cleaner Ingredients -

95% Cultured Bacteria Blend
1% Amino Acids (Aspartic Acid)
0.5% Vinegar - This is used as the preservative
3.5% Other Ingredients (RO/DI Water)

Doesn't appear too dangerous to try. I beat my dino's by overdosing live phyto and UV.
 
Just thought I would add my experience with dino's. I had a pretty severe case in my reef for the last 6 months bad enough that 2 hours after siphoning out the dino's it looked like you had done nothing. Sps all began dying and I was seriously considering taking it down and starting over. After reading this thread I decided to try a multi pronged approach. I am very close with my local lfs so I took my fish and corals over to the store and began the treatment. I blacked out the entire tank sump etc dosed hydrogen peroxide daily and ran 200mg of ozone for 10 days. After opening it up there was no sign of dino's so I went and retrieved my fish and coral and everything has been great since just over a month now and 0 sign of dino's. As a side note I missed a crab or two and a couple of snails when transferring the livestock and they all survived as did the sps that was left on the rocks after pulling the colony so I believe this could be done with livestock still in the tank.
 
I've been battling this stuff for 1.5 years now. Discovered the dirty method and it works, but always overdo it and wind up then battling hair algae for an even longer time. Ugh. So I brushed up a bit by reading the last 10 pages dating back to May-ish.

- is this still the main thread? seems like its quieted down. people jump over to that other thread with the new approach (cant remember the name)

- I know the right way is to first determine which type I have. I cant see enough under my sons microscope. Other than buying a scope just for this not sure what else I can do?

- I will say my type, which just started coming back, includes a film on the surface of the water. maybe all dinos do. but that's usually my first sign that its coming back.
 
vibrant all the way, not a sight of osteo anywhere after 5 doses, 15mL/100gal twice a week. I really had a bad case where every inch of my rocks, backwall and sand bed were covered by this and killed all by acro 1 by 1. No side effect at all, though I only have RBTA, rabbit fish, picasso clown and cleaner shrimp. Sorry don't have any post picture, but this is before.


 
I felt it was time to slow the pursuit down after all those years and let others pick up the pace which seems to be happening in the other thread. Anyone got a link?

The situation in my tank has improved drastically over the past few weeks since I've removed all the sand, a third of the rocks and followed up with extensive daily cleaning.

The aim is to figure out the effect that marine snow has on the dino population and how much is being produced. I still need a few weeks, but so far it's been an eye opener.
 
Need some help... Identified as Ostreopsis Ovata under miscroscope. How to kill them? I've heard that Dino X doesn't work on them.
 
Well guys, latest victim here.

B4431096-B45F-4454-A2CA-B6F935530CB9_zpskshkpo6w.jpg


9F515032-913B-4C48-841B-3674B670C0BB_zpszutoj8pj.jpg


Been looking over this thread for a couple days. I believe to have an Amphidinium outbreak. The photos above were taken this morning when I turned on the lights prior to the evening. The brown stuff on the substrate gets more intense throughout the day, and then fades with lights out. I also note that in the areas where direct light does not hit the substrate there are no noticeable brown patches (although assume it's present). No bubbles, and it's not on the rock.

Tank History
Reefer 350, started in late July with TBS rock and Arag-Alive Special Grade substrate. No fish present, 2 frags, 1 wall hammer, 2 BTN, one pistol shrimp, one peppermint shrimp, and one cleaner shrimp, few turbos, 2 fighting conchs.

Salt to date was HW Marinemix. Recently switched to Red Sea (regular) because it was dirt cheap locally. RO is a 6 stage BRS (2 carbon and 2 DI). Lights are 2 Kessil A360WE, max intensity is 45% and max color is 30%, ramp up over 8 hours. Apex controller, RD3 50w pump, BK mini 160 skimmer. Dosing 2 part till recently (more later). Water change schedule has been ~ 10 gallons a week (more later).

There was no cycle with the TBS rock, but I did have die off. NO3 hit 50 (salifert) or so, PO4 hit 1ppm (hanna), currently I have been running some GFO to get the PO4 down to about .07 and water changes to get the NO3 down to about 20ppm. I had a patch of GHA on the rock which are now gone.

I initially thought the dino was diatoms, so I added the 2nd DI to the RO and changed out the first when I initially started seeing the brown stuff. At about this time I started the GFO (it removes silicates too).

I currently am skimming pretty wet. I empty the cup every two days and change socks about every 3-4 days.

The brown stuff on the substrate has been there for about 3 weeks, I tried lights out for three days and it went away for about 2 days (during this period I added the nems).

Kh is 8.16 or better (would dose to 8.3 if at 8.16) and Ca 420-445 and Mg 1325-1400.

Rock looks great. Target feed shrimp with some LRS chunks about 2x week.

I have a Potters angel and Yellow shrimp goby in QT right now, they have been there for 5 weeks and will stay there till I get rid of the brown stuff.

Recent Variances
My Ph was pretty much 7.9-8.1 depending on the light cycle, in the past two weeks it has went into a range of about 7.75-7.85. More brown stuff appeared. My conchs have been below the substrate I assume getting their fill of the dino. I will also note I have a number of the red worms as observed by FishKeeper82.

I recently discontinued the 2 part and started dripping Kalk at night to combat the low Ph, hopefully help with PO4 and to keep my alk in check. My Ph has improved some it's up to 8.02 yesterday with a low of 7.8 in 24 hours. My Kh is at 8.48. Was doing 1/4 tsp in a gallon of water, upping this today to 1/2 tsp in a gallon, would like to see the Kh around 9.

SWAG
My Ph dropped bad as the Amphidinium got thicker. Thinking CO2 is doing something and hoping the Kalk will lower the CO2 and possibly fix this (yea right).

I have not done a water change this week.

Game Plan
I discontinued the GFO yesterday...don't know if that is making Fe available to the Amphidinium. Will continue Kalk, doubt it will hurt.

Thinking of going for no water changes and see if it chokes itself out naturally. Also thinking of vacuuming the substrate and doing a huge water change and continuing with the no water changes to see if this helps remove the population. I don't think this will help and I will be back were I am in 2 weeks.

-Might add some Chaeto to the sump.
-Was thinking Peroxide, but don't know how that will work with the Nems and shrimp.
-Ordered some Dino-x to have on hand.
-Worse case scenario, ditch the substrate.
-thinking of ordering about 40 cerith snails to churn substrate and eat the Amphidinium.


I would appreciate anyones thoughts and ideas on how to approach this. I have reached out to a couple others on the board with this and they did not really know how they got rid of it...which leads me to believe it choked itself out on it's own.
 
Very good report and a sound plan.
Move fast through your list and do many operations at once.

When did cerith snails start to eat dinos?
 
Oops...meant cerith snails to just get some movement in the substrate. Curious if anything else would do better at this? Or would this be a waste of time?

I did read a few posts back where someone put some cheato down and it acted as a mulch of sorts to prevent their bloom? Any downside to doing that all over the entire exposed substrate (temporarily of course).

Thoughts on peroxide or Dino x with nems in the tank?

Anything I am missing?

Stop water changes or try one large change to siphon out as much of the Dino as possible?
 
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