Dinoflagellates.
- Thread starter DNA
- Start date
Manual removal, I was blowing off the rocks and vacuuming it from the sand bed, no water changes and reduce flow, skim wet, I pumped the siphoned water back into the system through a 5 uM sediment filter, I kept the filter running in my sump so I could use it daily for about a week.
See, now I've heard mixed results. Some say no water changes while other say aggressive 50% water changes every 2-3 for a while. And eventually cutting back.
I have ostreopsis and found water changes would cause blooms, aggressive blooms. Different dino types respond differently, some can be killed with lights out treatments.
I use UV for the ones in the water column and ended up removing as much of the sand bed as possible. I've ordered 10uM filter socks to help remove them from the water column. I have them to the point where there are virtually none on the rocks and corals but still getting some on the glass and the bottom. I've also tried h202 with no success.
I'm not sure what type I have but I did a 72 hour blackout that eliminated them for about 2 weeks (now). Since then I've also been doing my regular weekly water changes with no bloom. When I tell you they are not bad right now, they really aren't like honestly if I wasn't looking for them I would not even see them. I'm just super anal about everything in my tank and look for things to fix.
However I just know what these CAN turn into. Which is why I choose to be so proactive and aggressive even though it's on such a small issue currently.
Switch off your skimmer, feed your fish heavily, vacuum everything (rocks and sand) through a filter sock, use Can(OH)2 to run high pH levels (switch off CO2) and moderate light intensity.
I have been fighting ostreopsis and amphidinum for three months and these actions worked for me. I had three blooms one week after I switched my skimmer on (it stripped the water nutrients).
Now that I have used a natural parasite I think that ostreopsis will be completely gone but will wait for a month before I switch it on again.
It is very important to encourage other microorganisms and algae that outcompete dinoflagellates and many skimmers just do not permit it as they are too oversized.
I have been fighting ostreopsis and amphidinum for three months and these actions worked for me. I had three blooms one week after I switched my skimmer on (it stripped the water nutrients).
Now that I have used a natural parasite I think that ostreopsis will be completely gone but will wait for a month before I switch it on again.
It is very important to encourage other microorganisms and algae that outcompete dinoflagellates and many skimmers just do not permit it as they are too oversized.
Amphiprion
Premium Member
When you reintroduce your animals, the dinoflagellates will return with them, even if you manage to completely eliminate them from the display. You can quarantine and treat your fish with hyposalinity and/or copper. Any corals cannot be effectively treated to kill the dinoflagellates without harming or killing the coral. Trust me in that I've tried at least as hard as anyone else to do exactly what you are thinking. I took it several steps further, even. Your plan is very, very unlikely to be effective as it stands.
Amphiprion
Premium Member
Where have you obtained Parvilucifera cells? It could be more productive to share a potential source.
I talked about that on post number 795
MJNTWise
7 Year Newbie
This is my experience, I had Dino for the longest time. what fixed it was I STOP dosing vinegar. I do run bio-pellets(half what is recommended) and gfo. I also run 200 mico socks and change them everyday. Also I run a skimmer that is rated for twice my water volume. My NO3 and Po4 is Zero. The way I understand is dino will feed off of inorganic po4, and GFO is the best way to get rid of it. Like I said this is just my thoughts and what has worked for me.
DNA
New member
.
This is from post #1 and it goes with identified Ostreopsis dinos.
Success or fail stories are not really helpful unless you post what they go with.
In this case I'm certain you did not have what I do.
Dinoflagellates are unbeatable for many and we need to step up with the quality of the information we post.
This is from post #1 and it goes with identified Ostreopsis dinos.
Success or fail stories are not really helpful unless you post what they go with.
In this case I'm certain you did not have what I do.
Dinoflagellates are unbeatable for many and we need to step up with the quality of the information we post.
My ostreopsis is 98% gone, I am getting brown patches on the tank bottom and a brown film on the glass which is 99% diatoms with some scattered ostreopsis, I have turned off my UV to encourage green micro algae (I have none now) and installed 10 uM filter socks on my drains, which I will change daily, to try to catch the remaining buggers. I have raised my po4 to .04 ppm from 0 and my no3 to 5 ppm from 0 and my alk to 11 dkh from 9. The diatoms appeared after I raised my po4 and no3.
I believe most of my success has been aggressive physical removal.
I tried lights out and lights out with h2o2 which did not help, UV which I believe helped, elevated pH which did not help, wet skimming which I believe helped, 0 water changes which helped.
I believe most of my success has been aggressive physical removal.
I tried lights out and lights out with h2o2 which did not help, UV which I believe helped, elevated pH which did not help, wet skimming which I believe helped, 0 water changes which helped.
