Dinoflagellates.
- Thread starter DNA
- Start date
I'm trying Cuprisorb as most other methods didn't work. Well, not most - all.
I've also read several threads about Cuprisorb and dinos. It's not directly connected to copper, but rather to iron, or some other unknown that Cuprisorb seems to absorb and get out of the tank.
I just started last Thursday in high-flow area in the sump (Seachem says no reactor!) and I can see a small change. Some places like the back wall have visibly less dinos, even some totally clean patches.
However, it's still early to say if it's really due to Cuprisorb. From what I've read, it takes at least a month to see significant results - and whether it works at all.
karimwassef
Active member
If metals were the problem, a macroalgae refugium (chaeto) would have fixed it as long as the chaeto is actively exported.
karimwassef
Active member
Quiet_Ivy
New member
I can't tell what that is in the pics. The colour sure looks like dinos or diatoms, but I've currently got a cyano vs dinos battle happening and the stupid things are exactly the same colour. (Checked with my microscope. Are the dinos eating cyano and picking up the colour? I think the cyano is actually winning)
Yea, I saw that thread on cuprisorb when researching around. I'm dubious. Plants love iron, sure. But I've had enormous clumps of actively growing chaeto during the worst of the dinos. I've also run a lot of Polyfilter (to take out dino toxins), and it should have depleted any heavy metals in my tank given no water changes.
@jason Well, I'd expect a bad attack of anything algae, dinos, cyano, to take everything below the detection limit.
@karimwassef I've tried dosing Stability and it removed the cyano very well, but only if I added enough to provoke a small bacterial bloom. I got nervous about the hazy water and stopped. I *think* it reduced the dinos as well but my pics from that time don't show much of a change. You couldn't pay me to deliberately nuke my tank's microbio, that's how people get unkillable dino infestations! You'll never hit all the cysts.
hth
ivy
Quiet_Ivy
New member
Do you have any theories as to why your tank declines so fast after you add rock? It just seems awfully fast.
I'm still convinced dinos are an ecosystem problem at the micro level. All the factors you mention are interrelated and our tiny tanks just don't have redundant capacity. So perhaps in your tank you can't keep a particular strain of bacteria going because something is taking it out, while in my tank I lost that little Oxyrrhis guy and the pods couldn't eat enough dinos to stop the takeover. That's why imho various methods work, they're different approaches to the same thing: increasing microbiodiversity. Take out one leg of the stool and I'm going to fall on my behind. If I'm sitting in a dining room chair, take out one leg and I'm still good.
So I think it's not all doom and gloom, even though we're missing something, another bacteria/animal may come along to take its place. I wish I lived closer to the sea; it's 2000km to the Pacific, and the reefs out there are cold water.
ivy
Mikefromaz
New member
Back in the middle of dino paradise again....sheesh! My last outbreak was stopped through aggressive tank maintenance, UV sterilizer and a lot of phyto and pods. This time I have decided to use daily siphoning and hydrogen peroxide. Any input or personal experiences with H2O2 against dinos would be appreciated.
Jewilson83
New member
I tried to do the glass test to determine if I have Dino. I can't find the link anywhere that I found. I remember it saying that if you put a napkin on the top of the glass and add your tank water through it. With ambient lighting in about an hour the Dino will connect to each other. I'm wondering if comparing to the glass test, is the Dino?
DNA
New member
I've tried that with Ostreopsis and it's a complete waist of time.
Siphoning I still do but only when doing water changes. It will leave at big dent for a few hours.
DNA
New member
Dinos will not always react the same way so I think this test is not a good one even though it can give a good indication if they do connect. Mine used to do just that, but it's a rare sight today.
Jewilson83
New member
DNA- you have sps, right? Why do you do water changes? Have you tried carbon dosing? I want to try carbon dosing , but haven't found a good answer yet for how Dino will behave
Billy- have you tried dirty method plus daily siphoning? Put the hose into you sump in a filter sock. That worked for me - they came back less and less everyday. ... Plus over feeding and pods and phyto.
Definitely still need to stay away from water changes - they come back every time. But now I somehow got my nitrates high and unsure what to do about them. Chaeto won't grow- probably cause no po4. Thinking about carbon dosing still
Billy- have you tried dirty method plus daily siphoning? Put the hose into you sump in a filter sock. That worked for me - they came back less and less everyday. ... Plus over feeding and pods and phyto.
Definitely still need to stay away from water changes - they come back every time. But now I somehow got my nitrates high and unsure what to do about them. Chaeto won't grow- probably cause no po4. Thinking about carbon dosing still
Quiet_Ivy
New member
Doesn't look like dinos, but Sonnus' test has a few 'buts'. I know I have Ostreopsis, confirmed with a microscope, and the test doesn't work for me anymore because my dinos are in a thin film rather than big clumps. It used to be scary when I siphoned the tank. To get a really strong result you have to have about a tablespoon of suspect gunk, it has to be shaken until it's blended almost smooth, and it may take stronger light to see definite results.
Here's the link to his/her post: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2531708
hth
ivy
Quiet_Ivy
New member
Sorry to hear you're back for round 2. Do you know what brought on the attack? Peroxide didn't do squat for me, even at much higher than recommended doses, but I also have Ostreopsis. (I didn't have fish or inverts at the time I was dosing it.) It's extremely dangerous to decorative shrimp and small fish. If you still have the UV you should be able to knock them down again with your previous method..
hth
ivy
Quiet_Ivy
New member
flamehawk1613
New member
I have been fighting what I think is dyno's . A few weeks ago my sand was covered with stringy snot . I have been vacuuming the sand everyday and it has improved but the sand is still red . so after reading many of the post in here I decided to mix up 23ml of peroxide in a one gallon of RODI water and pump that solution through a coral feeding tube right onto the sand bed. my problem has improved a ton , all I have is small patches now. my plan is to continue this for a few days and see how things go.
karimwassef
Active member
Mike - do you know what triggered the relapse?
If UV isn't working, then you may need a new bulb. If the UV is in good condition, and not helping wit the dinos, then peroxide won't do much either.
something tipped the balance. It would be useful to understand what it was.
Billybatz9
New member
What is it in the dirty method that causes a reduction in them? I really don't want to have a hair algae and cyano outbreak with all my sps corals in there. Have you done dirty with sps corals? How did they react?
Fish Keeper82
New member
Following along since i now am in the same fight :reading:
