Dinoflagellates.

A little update...

I added the cermedia block 2 days ago and inoculated with the prodibio bacteria straight on to it. Today there were patches of dino free areas on the rocks... about 75% of the original population I'd say. I can't tell if this is from the dirty method (I have GHA growing as well) or from the block or from the lack of water changes.

I have suctioned out what I could thru a 50 micron sock and I've installed a 9W UV... lets hope it gets better and better. The green hair algae growth is what gives me the most hope.
 
PorkchopExpress said:
good to hear! did you go 3 day or longer blackout?

as for coralline, i've noticed the same correlation in the past when i've had blooms however i don't necessarily think they eat coralline as opposed to them creating an environment where coralline can't grow...when i've had dinos, they tend to do messed up things to your alk and throw your parameters all over the place...i think coralline likes stability as coralline is a nice indication of a healthy tank

this is my tank today...i think i'm about 10+ months dino free...notice the coralline in the back glass? :)



Click to expand...
First off WoW! Noice tank! S
Yeah did a 3 day, knocked them back a bit..then bought some phyto 2 kinds live. Bacteria various kinds and started dosing.
After couple of days the gha started showin up..also my brother trimmed his chaeto so i added it to my fuge..(pod heavy)
Also purchased another 16oz of algagen tisbe pods and added them to the fuge. Dinos only appearing on a couple of my acro but very minimal..seems like it is working so far..
Btw when can i do water change? Long after dinos have disapeared? Or can i siphon dinos out and replenish with new salt? Thanks!!
 
mannyhernz said:
First off WoW! Noice tank! S
Yeah did a 3 day, knocked them back a bit..then bought some phyto 2 kinds live. Bacteria various kinds and started dosing.
After couple of days the gha started showin up..also my brother trimmed his chaeto so i added it to my fuge..(pod heavy)
Also purchased another 16oz of algagen tisbe pods and added them to the fuge. Dinos only appearing on a couple of my acro but very minimal..seems like it is working so far..
Btw when can i do water change? Long after dinos have disapeared? Or can i siphon dinos out and replenish with new salt? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

i'm going to go against the grain here and say you can do water changes at any time as long as you are not NO3/PO4 deficient but i think you are going to get varying opinions, mostly saying you should NOT do any water changes until long after they've disappeared...it's a theory that the dinos will bloom when you replenish some sort of nutrient or mineral or whatever in that fresh batch of saltwater...however, it's my lone opinion that it's not that you are replenishing something the dinos need to thrive, it's that water changes will deplete your already ultra low levels of NO3/PO4 and hinder the growth of competing algae which is something you desperately need in your battle with dinos...water changes basically counter the dirty method

but again, that is strictly my opinion based on no facts whatsoever...to be safe, i'd recommend just keeping up with the dirty method and just let it run it's course
 
reefcentral123 said:
A little update...

I added the cermedia block 2 days ago and inoculated with the prodibio bacteria straight on to it. Today there were patches of dino free areas on the rocks... about 75% of the original population I'd say. I can't tell if this is from the dirty method (I have GHA growing as well) or from the block or from the lack of water changes.

I have suctioned out what I could thru a 50 micron sock and I've installed a 9W UV... lets hope it gets better and better. The green hair algae growth is what gives me the most hope.
Click to expand...

GHA growing is the first step to recovery...seeing green film on your glass is also a very good indication you are going down the right path...keep feeding heavy and dosing that phyto! gl
 
PorkchopExpress said:
GHA growing is the first step to recovery...seeing green film on your glass is also a very good indication you are going down the right path...keep feeding heavy and dosing that phyto! gl
Click to expand...

yeah things are looking good i just went and turned on the white lights only to get a clearer view of what's growing and there's a green film of algae on the back glass :beer:
 
My bouts with dinos makes no sense.....

3 day bloom followed by 30 day clear followed by 2 day bloom followed by now 5 day clear.

Clean and dirty method have both worked for me.....
Decreasing lights and increasing lights have both worked and not worked....
Turning off skimmer and over-skimming also worked for me the first time and against me the second time....

:facepalm:
 
seamonster124 said:
My bouts with dinos makes no sense.....

3 day bloom followed by 30 day clear followed by 2 day bloom followed by now 5 day clear.

Clean and dirty method have both worked for me.....
Decreasing lights and increasing lights have both worked and not worked....
Turning off skimmer and over-skimming also worked for me the first time and against me the second time....

:facepalm:
Click to expand...

that sucks...i don't recall but have you identified your dinos and has the strain always been the same? i suppose it's possible different dinos can coexist that are immune or susceptible to different treatments...it seems UV works for some but not others and dirty works for some and not others
 
Slow flow UV users poll:

Karim. ++ (killed dinos every time)
Porkchop. +- (sometimes killed dinos)
Fishkeeper82. +0 (controlled & halted dinos)

Need more votes... I'm calling it +3/-0 for now :)
 
Dinos have receded to about 5% of the original bloom. Very small patches here and there. GHA and green film algae growing on glass.

Dirthy method, no skimming, cermedia block, prodibio bacteria, pods, and now UV and mechanical removal thru 50 micron was what I did. :bounce3:
 
karimwassef said:
Slow flow UV users poll:

Karim. ++ (killed dinos every time)
Porkchop. +- (sometimes killed dinos)
Fishkeeper82. +0 (controlled & halted dinos)

Need more votes... I'm calling it +3/-0 for now :)
Click to expand...
How about those that got rid of it with out UV? Though I do see the idea behind it running at night. I don't like though that's also when a lot of other critters hiding from the light come out and play.

One may want to, if not already due to harvesting algae, run some lights in the sump at night while the UV is on. Give them a chance to scurry away to hide from the light before getting sucked up by the pump supplying the UV (again assume it's not fed by a drain).
 
Karim. ++ (killed dinos every time)
Porkchop. +- (sometimes killed dinos)
Fishkeeper82. +0 (controlled & halted dinos)
reefcentral123 +0 (controlled & halted dinos)

+4/-0

Yes. It can work quickly if you use low flow + during the dark (extended is best) + export (skimming, etc ...)
 
I ran a 9W / 800 g/h UV for months and it had no effect on my ostis.
Monty ran a 55W / 1600 g/h UV for his ostis with same results.

For the tenth time....
Name you dinos.

I'd think dinoflagellates, dead or alive, do not stand a chance against a trip through a good skimmer.
I would also presume it to be much more effective than UV.
That leads to an assumption that if UV is putting a dent in dinos it would be because of something else than it's dino killing abilities.
To be true to my own theories that would be the release of palytoxins into the water column. Dead dinos in the skimmer cup can't do this.
Theoretically speaking...
 
DNA said:
I ran a 9W / 800 g/h UV for months and it had no effect on my ostis.
Monty ran a 55W / 1600 g/h UV for his ostis with same results.

For the tenth time....
Name you dinos.

I'd think dinoflagellates, dead or alive, do not stand a chance against a trip through a good skimmer.
I would also presume it to be much more effective than UV.
That leads to an assumption that if UV is putting a dent in dinos it would be because of something else than it's dino killing abilities.
To be true to my own theories that would be the release of palytoxins into the water column. Dead dinos in the skimmer cup can't do this.
Theoretically speaking...
Click to expand...

My Dinos are ostreopsis by comparison of the teatherball motion from PANTS website and UV worked for me. Skimming alone did not lower their numbers during regular photo periods and UV has. I had long strains and now that UV is running only dusting no stringers at ll. although i never tried extended lights out and skimming so i dont know what effect that would have had.
I also note my Dinos are not toxic so what "strain" of ostreopsis IDK. Looks like UV is working for some to different degrees.

I agree we need to id our specific type. Maybe different treads need to be created based on type. Either way me and you would be on the same ostreopsis and UV is working for me to keep them at bay so IDK.
EDIT: There is one ther possibility i just thought of. There could have been multiple types of dinos and UV only affected a certain type and i only saw ostreopsis under the scope. I'll look under the microscope again tomorrow since i have not looked at them since UV killed the initial 95 percent.
 
Last edited:
DNA said:
I ran a 9W / 800 g/h UV for months and it had no effect on my ostis.
Monty ran a 55W / 1600 g/h UV for his ostis with same results.

For the tenth time....
Name you dinos.

I'd think dinoflagellates, dead or alive, do not stand a chance against a trip through a good skimmer.
I would also presume it to be much more effective than UV.
That leads to an assumption that if UV is putting a dent in dinos it would be because of something else than it's dino killing abilities.
To be true to my own theories that would be the release of palytoxins into the water column. Dead dinos in the skimmer cup can't do this.
Theoretically speaking...
Click to expand...

800 gph and 1600 gph would have zero effect on anything, especially something as big as dinos. At 9W? 900gph? That's less exposure than my double ended 400W MH bulb. Try again at 200gph with more UV.?
 
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