Dinoflagellates.

Red rock.


Red Rock pic 2.


Slime on snail shell.


Slime and bubbles on new wavemaker installed 6 hours ago.


Sand bed near torch coral. Lights were off until I turned them on for photos, which is why he's kinda sucked in.
 
Please give me your input on whether these are dinos. The wavemaker was installed 6 hours ago. IMG_9904.jpg
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Are these pictures showing dinoflagellates?

Are these pictures showing dinoflagellates?

CLJ94104:

The picture of the rock does look like dinoflagellates. To be sure, you might want to go ahead and treat the tank for cyanobacteria. I prefer using chemiclean and you can even use it at less than full strength with good results in a reef tank. I have used it at half the normal dosage but in this case I would use 75% the normal dosage for 1 week, then hit the protein skimmer to get it all out. Make sure you treat the tank with the UV and skimmer off for 1 week. After a few days, a strong skimmer should have removed most of the chemiclean. It really makes the skimmer foam up when you first turn it back on so your skimmer will overflow if not dialed back down.

Also I have a friend who had rock very similar in appearance to yours in his 600 gallon reef. He went out and bought a bunch of turbo snails. He bought various kinds and they really did the trick in mowing the stuff down.

Good luck!
 
I haven't tried anything other than running blue/violet lights only. I have Dino X but am unsure of the product. Never used it. Should I give it a go? I've calculated the proper dosage.


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I'd give it a shot, although I'd try to siphon out any large mass of dinoflagellates I could reach, and I'd add some fresh carbon. Dying dinoflagellates might release toxins. I don't remember any horror stories, but I would be cautious.
 
If those are indeed Dino's which they appear to be -- it is a long tough battle. No chemicals on the market will treat it. Chemicals only make the situation worse causing so many other issues throwing the eco system out of balance. The only treatment that seems to make a dent is elevating N03 & P04 levels along with pulling out your sand bed. A UV works depending on which strain of dino you have.

If your N & P levels are zero i would start by boosting up those levels. Avoid chemicals if at all possible. Just my $0.02
 
Dino X worked for me after 4 treatments with reduced light period. Blues only for 4 hours per day during treatment. No casualties.


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If i were a betting man....and i am....the dinos will be back. Especially if you have a sand bed. Dinos have a way of forming a protective barrier and hiding to wait out the bad times (chemicals) and come out a visit when the time is right.

Ive had the dinos receed for several months after chemical treatments and then out of nowhere the dinos blow up once the N & P levels bottom out.

If you beat it with dino x....thats great and your the first person ive met who beat dinos with this product.
 
If those are indeed Dino's which they appear to be -- it is a long tough battle. No chemicals on the market will treat it. Chemicals only make the situation worse causing so many other issues throwing the eco system out of balance. The only treatment that seems to make a dent is elevating N03 & P04 levels along with pulling out your sand bed. A UV works depending on which strain of dino you have.

If your N & P levels are zero i would start by boosting up those levels. Avoid chemicals if at all possible. Just my $0.02


Imo, that's absolutly true except i kept my sandbed.

Added O3 2 hrs a night

Started feeding a LOT MORE

Exported tons of those buggers siphoning those little buggers into the dino trap in my video above

Gone in about 2 weeks.
 
If i were a betting man....and i am....the dinos will be back. Especially if you have a sand bed. Dinos have a way of forming a protective barrier and hiding to wait out the bad times (chemicals) and come out a visit when the time is right.

Ive had the dinos receed for several months after chemical treatments and then out of nowhere the dinos blow up once the N & P levels bottom out.

If you beat it with dino x....thats great and your the first person ive met who beat dinos with this product.


DinoX seems to be hit n miss depending on strain.
 
Guys I need some advise; I'm thinking about adding more cuc like some snails. I have a lot of denitrus buil-up every couple of days on my rocks that I think maybe adding fuel for the dino"s. But after fighting almost a year with dino's my water has seen dinoX, phycoEx, dinoxal, H2O2 and I didn't do a water change for months, I'm afraid this wil fuel more dino's. Has my water become dangerous to snails or other micro-fauna? I have GFO bags in the water for a couple of weeks now, does this remove al the toxins from the dino's and dino-treatments? Thanks for the help!
 
GFO will remove phosphate and silicate, but it won't remove much in the way of organics. Some fresh carbon will help remove organics. You might need several batches, if there's a lot of organic content in the water. Unfortunately, we have no practical way to measure that parameter.

When you say "detritus" do you mean leftover food and the like, or some sort of microbial growth?

I'd probably do a few water changes, although they might fuel a bit of growth, to keep the ionic balance in line.
 
I believe I have ostreopsis dinos. They are primarily on the sand bed but I've lost two acropora. I started running carbon and vacuumed the sand every night. Po3 was 10 and Po4 was .1 They kept coming back every day for about a week. I bought a UV Sterilizer and it had an immediate impact. It didn't get rid of the problem but slowed it down so I only have to siphon about every third day. Not sure where to go from here but I might try adjusting the flow rate on the UV sterilizer then give it some time to see where the tank goes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o2alraNmsY
 
Hi. I'm having brown "dusty" cyanobacteria, diatom or dinoflagellates. It seems to me now that it is dinoflagellates. Here's a couple of pics of how they look under the microscope. Can you help he ID it?

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