DivingTheWorld's Custom Leemar 80g Rimless Reef

Curious, what was your nutrient issue? Apologies if you discussed it earlier but I didn’t see it on the most recent update. I have a similarly sized tank that is doing fairly well but I am not getting the colors that I would like. I also have a history of zoas melting, both of which I am attributing to low nutrients. My nitrates and phosphates are 0 but I’m not sure I’m ready to start dosing. I may start with adding more fish and upping my feeding regimen to see how that goes. Interested to hear what your issue were.
 
Curious, what was your nutrient issue? Apologies if you discussed it earlier but I didn't see it on the most recent update. I have a similarly sized tank that is doing fairly well but I am not getting the colors that I would like. I also have a history of zoas melting, both of which I am attributing to low nutrients. My nitrates and phosphates are 0 but I'm not sure I'm ready to start dosing. I may start with adding more fish and upping my feeding regimen to see how that goes. Interested to hear what your issue were.

I've had ups and downs with nutrients over the years and have generally attributed issues to nutrients being too low. I believe part of my coral crashing episode (11/2017) was due to Nitrates and Phosphates being far too low. The other part I firmly believe was due to running my T5 bulbs too long, but there is great debate with that one, so I'll leave it there. :lolspin:

There are people with awesome acro tanks on this forum who run ULNS such as Nitrates under 1ppm and Phosphates under 0.01ppm. My tank does not do well with that. IMO, soft corals such as zoas definitely prefer higher nutrient water, but I've found acros do as well.

The first thing you need to figure out is how to properly test for them. For phosphates, the only reliable and repeatable test I have found is the Hanna HI736 Phosphorus ULR tester. For Nitrates, there are several good ones to choose from like Salifert and Red Sea. I personally prefer NYOS.

So you're now reliably testing and your Nitrates/Phosphates are still too low. There are two ways to increase them, the un-natural way and the natural way. I have dabbled in the un-natural way by dosing Nitrate and Phosphate but that was also just before my coral crash, so I would urge caution! :thumbdown

The natural way is to increase feeding. You can feed your corals (ReefRoids, etc.) or feed your fish. I prefer the latter. I'm a firm believer that corals, particularly acros do well when there is enough fish poop being released into the water. Good lighting and Fish Poop should be all they need for food. To do this method it's simple, just add more fish and feed them. I would suggest adding no more than one fish/month and test a couple times a week to see how your tank is adjusting. When you hit the nutrient level you want, stop adding fish and adjust fish feeding to maintain your levels.

I shoot for around 5ppm Nitrate but it varies between 4-6ppm. I shoot for around 0.03 Phosphate, but it's been running closer to 0.07 the past few months and the tank is doing well so I see no need to change.
 
I've had ups and downs with nutrients over the years and have generally attributed issues to nutrients being too low. I believe part of my coral crashing episode (11/2017) was due to Nitrates and Phosphates being far too low. The other part I firmly believe was due to running my T5 bulbs too long, but there is great debate with that one, so I'll leave it there. :lolspin:



There are people with awesome acro tanks on this forum who run ULNS such as Nitrates under 1ppm and Phosphates under 0.01ppm. My tank does not do well with that. IMO, soft corals such as zoas definitely prefer higher nutrient water, but I've found acros do as well.



The first thing you need to figure out is how to properly test for them. For phosphates, the only reliable and repeatable test I have found is the Hanna HI736 Phosphorus ULR tester. For Nitrates, there are several good ones to choose from like Salifert and Red Sea. I personally prefer NYOS.



So you're now reliably testing and your Nitrates/Phosphates are still too low. There are two ways to increase them, the un-natural way and the natural way. I have dabbled in the un-natural way by dosing Nitrate and Phosphate but that was also just before my coral crash, so I would urge caution! :thumbdown



The natural way is to increase feeding. You can feed your corals (ReefRoids, etc.) or feed your fish. I prefer the latter. I'm a firm believer that corals, particularly acros do well when there is enough fish poop being released into the water. Good lighting and Fish Poop should be all they need for food. To do this method it's simple, just add more fish and feed them. I would suggest adding no more than one fish/month and test a couple times a week to see how your tank is adjusting. When you hit the nutrient level you want, stop adding fish and adjust fish feeding to maintain your levels.



I shoot for around 5ppm Nitrate but it varies between 4-6ppm. I shoot for around 0.03 Phosphate, but it's been running closer to 0.07 the past few months and the tank is doing well so I see no need to change.



Thanks for the detailed response! My prior tank experienced fairly slow growth (decent color) and my zoas and mushrooms eventually all melted. I didn't test for phosphates regularly but nitrates were always 0.

My new tank has been up for about 3 months and I am not experiencing the melting but colors are drab and I feel like it's only a matter of time before my mushrooms and zoas start melting again. In the old tank new zoas would always go through an intense growth period early on (e.g new polyps every week for the first 2-3 months) then slowly melt.

I've been doing a lot of reading and though others have had success with non-natural ways of increasing nitrates, I'm just not that comfortable, especially since I know I can't keep up with the testing regiment to do it right. My tank isn't packed with fish but I have a decent number (80 gallon with a hippo tang, perc clown, 4 chromis, 4 disbar anthias, Jennifer and leopard wrasse) and will likely increase in the coming months. I IMG_9782.jpgfeed fairly heavily but just picked up an auto feeder to make it more consistent. We'll see how that goes!




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DivingTheWorld's Custom Leemar 80g Rimless Reef

Thanks for posting the par numbers. It seems to me a surprising difference in par after 6.5 months. Much more of a difference than the BRS study concluded. Could it be that a burn in period is needed for the t5? The BRS trial burned the bulbs in first before testing drop with the same bulbs over time. When you have some time in a couple weeks, maybe try a few spots again with the apogee now that some time has passed. I bet it's closer to your numbers before the change.



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Thanks for posting the par numbers. It seems to me a surprising difference in par after 6.5 months. Much more of a difference than the BRS study concluded. Could it be that a burn in period is needed for the t5? The BRS trial burned the bulbs in first before testing drop with the same bulbs over time. When you have some time in a couple weeks, maybe try a few spots again with the apogee now that some time has passed. I bet it's closer to your numbers before the change.



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That is certainly possible. Yes, I will test again in a couple weeks. I've got my hours reduced while the bulbs are new and I'm anxious to get it back on my regular schedule.
 
Those par numbers are a lot higher than I what I see usually recommended. How are they compared to what you were expecting or intending?
 
What is the orange encrustment on the left side rock of your tank - is that some kind of sponge?
 
Those par numbers are a lot higher than I what I see usually recommended. How are they compared to what you were expecting or intending?

To be honest, I don't really have a set goal and this is my first time ever testing with a PAR meter. From what I've read, acros usually do well in about 300-500 PAR. I'd say these new bulbs are a bit high which is why I reduced my photo period, but overall I'd say the PAR is about right. I don't keep any soft corals/LPS other than zoas and a couple chalices. I keep all those on a shaded back rack or all the way on the bottom. The most important thing for me is my acros.

Adam @ Battlecorals states: "My propagation tanks are only 12 inches deep and just about everything in them are getting blasted. I mean BLASTED!"

Vivid states 350-500 PAR for most of their acros.
 
Most commercial growers that have the fancy pics run radions st 100 percent all channels. Grows them fast and gives that extra glow under the blues. They'll grow with barely any light to. I've bought corals back in the day that were lightless for month and a half still had good polyp and skin just had zero color. It's the water. At the same time you had a melt down, I know a few other solid sps keepers in the area that started having problems as well, at that same time, including myself.
 
Thanks for posting the par numbers. It seems to me a surprising difference in par after 6.5 months. Much more of a difference than the BRS study concluded. Could it be that a burn in period is needed for the t5? The BRS trial burned the bulbs in first before testing drop with the same bulbs over time. When you have some time in a couple weeks, maybe try a few spots again with the apogee now that some time has passed. I bet it’s closer to your numbers before the change.



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Here's a 2 week PAR Map:

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