DIY Apex Breakout Box Instructions/Parts List

that's what I did... an RJ-11 will plug into and correctly align with an RJ45's pins 2-7 (if you're using a 6 wire RJ-11, it will align with 3-6 if using a 4 wire, it will align with 4-5 if you're using a 2 wire)

I used RJ-11 jacks on the ends of my float switch wires to hook into the box..
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Sounds good, and also the ends and crimp tool are available
all over so you can make custom cables quickly and easily.
 
What kind of uses have everyone found for the breakout box other than ATO and water on the floor sensors? I assume most would use redundant ATO float switches hooked to two separate circuits to prevent one from sticking on?

My Apex is in the basement with the rest of the equipment and my display is upstairs. I use a iPad to kick off the feed mode that shuts down my Vortech pumps via the WMX module. I was thinking of a simple door bell switch mounted inside the display cabinet that would connect to the breakout box and when pressed, would start the feed cycle?

Other ideas? Going to make one of these in the near future and just was trying to think of all the ways I could use the six switches.
 
I have a "doorbell" set up to turn on my undercabinet/refugium light for situations where it isn't already on and I need to see/do something under the stand..

hold the doorbell for 1 second.. the light comes on.. (and stays on for 3 minutes, falling back to "auto" afterward)
 
Great thread!

I went with the cat5 version. While I was at Fry's, i also found a box, which i feel is a bit better looking.
 

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I have a "doorbell" set up to turn on my undercabinet/refugium light for situations where it isn't already on and I need to see/do something under the stand..

hold the doorbell for 1 second.. the light comes on.. (and stays on for 3 minutes, falling back to "auto" afterward)

Great idea!
 
Question, I am going to build one of these for my AC Jr. Since only switch 1 & 2 are functional on the controller, all I need is two jacks, correct? This will be running a digital Avast ATO sensor.
 
I made mine last night. Thanks for all the instructions. Here is how mine turned out.

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Fun little project.
 
You can get the float valves from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MADISON-Switch-2A554?Pid=search

Also glad to see that people still get some use from this thread. I like the new ideas!

Keep in mind from what I've read on these ones are that if it's going to be fully under water you new to add tubing and make sure it never get the top wet.

I am thinking of just cutting the plugs off my current JBJ auto top off sensors and adding them to my breakout box. Haven't decided yet. On of my current floats (fresh ro/di) it's fully under water as a backup to not let my top off pump run dry.
 
Not to sound rude, but the only time they should really be under water level in the sump is if the power goes out and your sump takes on the overflow from the tank :)

The tops of them where the wires go in are sealed with epoxy, and one of their uses is to measure specific gravity, so they can withstand the saltwater.

I've had them for 2.5 years now, been under water several times during cleaning of the sump or spot feeding corals, and power outages. I've never cleaned them and they work perfectly :)

I do have 1 in my top-off drum also, submerged for the same reason you do. I haven't had any issue there either. It's never actually been out of the water since I usually end up filling the drum before it's gets too low.

Sell the JBJ! Make a few bucks, build more stuff:thumbsup:
 
Keep in mind from what I've read on these ones are that if it's going to be fully under water you new to add tubing and make sure it never get the top wet.

You can run these underwater without tubing. The top is sealed from water with epoxy, as Daimyo68 pointed out.

Not to sound rude, but the only time they should really be under water level in the sump is if the power goes out and your sump takes on the overflow from the tank :)

I disagree. I run with a few submerged in saltwater at all times. 1 in each ATO container for a low water level warning, one in each chamber of my sump for low water warning, and another is fully submerged about 50% of the time for an ATO call. They will fail as everything does, but I have yet to have one fail on either my last tank or the new one. Ocassionaly I need to clean sponges off the floats and will give them a vinegar bath if they start getting buildup.
 
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Found some new floats in a box from an out DIY project. I'll try them out and sell off the jbj once I feel like it's setup properly.

Can one have a good test string I can use to ensure my breakout box is setup correcty?
 
Easiest way to test if you got it all correct, it code the apex for the switches, and plug a common lamp into the outlet the apex will control.

Here's my code:

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ON
Defer 000:20 Then ON
If Switch2 OPEN Then OFF
 
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