DIY Apex Breakout Box Instructions/Parts List

Does this breakout box work with Ac3 pro?

Also how do you program the float switch? I want to have 2 float switch. one for ATO, and one for overflowing
 
just what i was looking for!

just what i was looking for!

Thanks alot for this tutorial! it really helped me, there were some frustrating moments, like the color code in my cable was all messed up and i dont have a multimeter so i had to plug it in and test each and every cable manually.. but in the end everything works perfectly fine.. now just got to wonder the uses of it and ATO code..
 
If your using 2 float switches (one for when the water is low, and one for an emergenct OFF if it gets too high:

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Switch1 OPEN Then ON
Defer 000:50 Then OFF
If Switch2 CLOSED Then OFF

I added the Defer statement because sometimes I have my hand in the sump and cause waves, which will cause the pump to turn on. Defer makes it so it waits 50 seconds to confirm a low water level.

You can use the other lines for a Wet Floor Sensor, turn on/off stand lights (if you open the stand door, it will automatically turn on a light in the stand). I'm sure there's plenty of other too.

Glad some people still getting some use of this ;)
 
well this is a great in-depth DIY which is perfectly done.. well regarding the code, i have 3 float switches and would love to know how can i incorporate them in to the system, i would also like to know the code for them, once again thank you very much..


Daimyo68 said:
If your using 2 float switches (one for when the water is low, and one for an emergenct OFF if it gets too high:

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Switch1 OPEN Then ON
Defer 000:50 Then OFF
If Switch2 CLOSED Then OFF

I added the Defer statement because sometimes I have my hand in the sump and cause waves, which will cause the pump to turn on. Defer makes it so it waits 50 seconds to confirm a low water level.

You can use the other lines for a Wet Floor Sensor, turn on/off stand lights (if you open the stand door, it will automatically turn on a light in the stand). I'm sure there's plenty of other too.

Glad some people still getting some use of this ;)
Click to expand...
 
I know this is an old thread, but I need a little help. I ordered the 8 pin mini-din cable from the link that was provided in the first post. I received it today and I beleive I got a different cable than the one that the op used. The color of the wires match but not the gray. The cable that I received has a bare wire and not a gray cable. The bare looks to be connected to the outer shell thats surrounds the pins. I don't know what # pin would this be
The other problem that I'm running into, is that I do not know what pin is # 1 on my cable or on the Apex. I know that # 1 is one of the pins where it only has two across. If i go by the color pin layout that the op posted, the # 1 pin (red) on my cable is on the right side of the two pins.
Can someone please tell me if pin # 1 is suppose to be on the left or on the right?

Which one is correct?

678-----876
345-----543
.12------21
 
Here's an image from an older version of the Unofficial User Manual.

If you have a multi-meter, you can find out which pin is which color wire very easily. I am not sure if the wire colors have changed since the I originally posted this DIY.

Apex_Image1_zps2ca966d4.jpg
 
I just got done setting my float switches up and wiring my minidin connector. One thing I did that I haven't seen anyone else talk about is to wire up a jumper from pin 6 (any available pin) to ground. That way you can test if the miniDin cable has fallen out. Switch6 will always be closed as long as the cable is plugged in. Just another safe guard if you have a spare switch connection.
 
olendorf said:
I just got done setting my float switches up and wiring my minidin connector. One thing I did that I haven't seen anyone else talk about is to wire up a jumper from pin 6 (any available pin) to ground. That way you can test if the miniDin cable has fallen out. Switch6 will always be closed as long as the cable is plugged in. Just another safe guard if you have a spare switch connection.
Click to expand...

Great idea! Glad that this thread is still being used
 
Hey guys thanks for the tutorial! I am new to a controller but decided I wanted a little more control with my box. I added some mini switches to the first four of the six outlets. It makes it really nice when you simply want to reach in and empty the skimmer cup. I just flip a switch and the programming does the rest. I also keep a MJ in the sump for water changes. Flip the swith and the pump is on (or off) I only wired the switch to four of the six outlets as I could not come up with a reason in my head to use all 6.
7b4df956-8a15-41a4-940c-42939e78d34c.jpg
 
Breakout box with NC outlets

Breakout box with NC outlets

olendorf said:
I just got done setting my float switches up and wiring my minidin connector. One thing I did that I haven't seen anyone else talk about is to wire up a jumper from pin 6 (any available pin) to ground. That way you can test if the miniDin cable has fallen out. Switch6 will always be closed as long as the cable is plugged in. Just another safe guard if you have a spare switch connection.
Click to expand...

I accomplished much the same thing when I used "normally closed" 1/4" plugs.
A normally closed outlet essentially closes the circuit when something is "NOT" plugged in. Or it serves the same purpose of the ground on yours. This also serves to change the switch when one of the plugs comes loose, or out. With all of my plugs this way it requires some "thinking" during programing to utilize it as a failsafe, but I have been able to work it out. With nothing actually plugged into outlet six it serves to indicate if the mini din has come unplugged. Depending on the configuration of your switches you may also program pumps to shut down if ALL 6 of the switches become "open" which might indicate the plug coming undone.

I so much prefer the DIY side of this hobby
 
FWIW, just made one using the Belkin cable and my colors were: Brown 1, Red 2, Orange 3, Yellow 4, Green 5, Blue 6, Purple not used and Black 8 (ground).
 
Which belkin cable are you referring to? I have broke 3 mini din connectors so far - removing the pins from the 8 pin mini din connector is no easy task! Then getting them soldered in was easy, but putting them back into the connector and they would break again, frustrating! Then I worry about some of the pins/solder touching eachother since its not a large space. Wondering if there is a way to just get an 8pin mini din cable thats already connected to a wire so I just need to connect the wires together (cat5 to the wires on the existing cable). IIRC thats how I wired my tunzes to the apex.
 
Just order a couple cables from Monoprice, cut off the ends, beep it out, and be done with it.

Order a couple since they're only $2 each.
 
So I went to Radio Shack to get the parts you listed. After it was said an done, the parts cost $36 and that is with only 1 insulated 1/8 male wire. Decided to order a factory breakout box from BRS for $39.99 - $5 coupon + free shipping.
 
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