DIY Icecap...its not what you think

Thanks Bro,

Do you think the Philips is better than GE?

I looked at the daylight bulb (GE ones anyway at lowes) and they had a slighty lower lummen 2700 vs 2800 and CRI 78 vs 86 than the sunshine 5000k. So i was leaning towards the sunshine. Im running some 5000k right now they look preety good, maybe a little whiter/crisper than the 6500k ill have to try them both side by side.
 
wow, i'm suprised this practice hasn't become know here before now. check out some FW planted forums, i saw this same idea a year ago on plantedtank.net and would have tried doing this before but i can't wire a ballast to a floresent light, i've tried with a few from old fixtures but always end up putting them into the garage for later. i think the "stick all the yellows on one side and the red and blue wires on the other" is about the most helpful discription i've heard so far. anyway here is a great sticky on ODNO setups and it even has some numbers-
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/21257-odno-measurements-power-consumption-vs-light.html
 
If interested this article was for a planted tank but the wiring is shown in the photos and may be of some use to you. I've been using ODNO setups for about 4 years now and I've tried many different combinations. I've also been overdriving PCs and T6 bulbs lately with great results. The T6HO bulbs rival the T5 bulbs in my opinion and due to the use of standard end caps I feel they will eventually become quite popular. I'm currently running 48" T6HO at 110W each and very happy with them, specially now that the LFS are starting to carry T6 bulbs... However the HO versions I still have to order online.

http://www.gpodio.com/overdrive_twin_strip.asp

There are some links to other articles with some numbers but I found that over 2x OD efficiency starts to drop considerably and heat becomes an issue. At 2x I don't need any fans and bulb life seems uneffected for the most part.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8833911#post8833911 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gpodio
If interested this article was for a planted tank but the wiring is shown in the photos and may be of some use to you. I've been using ODNO setups for about 4 years now and I've tried many different combinations. I've also been overdriving PCs and T6 bulbs lately with great results. The T6HO bulbs rival the T5 bulbs in my opinion and due to the use of standard end caps I feel they will eventually become quite popular. I'm currently running 48" T6HO at 110W each and very happy with them, specially now that the LFS are starting to carry T6 bulbs... However the HO versions I still have to order online.

http://www.gpodio.com/overdrive_twin_strip.asp

There are some links to other articles with some numbers but I found that over 2x OD efficiency starts to drop considerably and heat becomes an issue. At 2x I don't need any fans and bulb life seems uneffected for the most part.

The link does not seem to work.

It seem to be a little mixed on the 4xs ODNO or to 2xs ODNO for bulb life. Im going with 5 tanks 2xs and 1 tank 4xs and see how they compare.

i have not seen any t-6 bulb yet but ill look into them also. Where did you find them?How are you running it to get 110 watts ?

I need to find a cheap light meter any sugestions?

I going to search out DIY refectors now. at a time coralife use to put alluminum or maylar tape on the back side of bulb i wonder how effective that is.
 
Sorry guys, we have a power outage in the office where the web server is :-( The link will work in the morning!
 
OK we have power again! Sorry about that!

Tanya, personally I only have "after" shots of my SPS tank as I was already overdriving bulbs when I started my SPS tank. However we're not talking about "different" lighting, just more light out of your existing bulbs. Besides the obvious changes an increase in light intensity will have, I would not be expecting any other big changes overall. The 'proof' you are seeking would most likely come from a lux meter than before/after shots.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8837755#post8837755 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
The link does not seem to work.

It seem to be a little mixed on the 4xs ODNO or to 2xs ODNO for bulb life. Im going with 5 tanks 2xs and 1 tank 4xs and see how they compare.

i have not seen any t-6 bulb yet but ill look into them also. Where did you find them?How are you running it to get 110 watts ?

I need to find a cheap light meter any sugestions?

I going to search out DIY refectors now. at a time coralife use to put alluminum or maylar tape on the back side of bulb i wonder how effective that is.

These are the T6 bulbs I have been buying lately:
http://www.naturallighting.com/web/shop.php?crn=704
More here:
http://www.naturallighting.com/web/shop.php?crn=591

These are nothing more than linear power compacts in reality. Most power compacts are T6 diameter. They just have better reflector efficiency just like T5 bulbs.

I have been running the 48" 55W 6500K T6 bulbs for about a year now on one of my main planted tanks and they are still running strong. Each bulb is powered by 2x55W circuits using workhorse ballasts.

I also have another tank running the NO version of these bulbs which are rated at 40W. I am running each bulb on a 2x32W T8 ballast identical to the one in the article above. Not quite 2x but the gain is still quite visible. T5 ballasts will also run these T6 bulbs very well, that's actually the intended ballast for these. The biggest advantage is that they don't require new endcaps.

One of our local fish stores upgraded all their lighting to T6 about 3-4 months ago. A big difference from their previous T12/T8 setups. Obviously their SPS holding tank is running MH, but everything else is T6. Several stores in my area now carry the T6NO bulbs rated at 40W for a 48" bulb. These are direct replacements for 40W T12 or 32W T8 bulbs. The 55W HO bulbs would require a new ballast and that is likely why there is less demand/availability at the regular LFS. I'm sure specialized stores, specially online stores will carry them with time.

Not sure what to recommend for a light meter. I have never needed actual readings myself so I have used camera light meters and even an old SLR with built in meter. Knowing how many stops difference the lights provide is enough info for my basic needs.

I'd try 3xOD before 4x. At 4x the temperature really skyrockets, there is always the "rated" bulb temperature where the bulb runs most efficiently. Going way over or under this temperature will cause a drop in efficiency so 4x will likely not come close to twice the lumen output of 2x. Also at 4x the bulbs usually die of filament failure when their time comes, where as at 2x the bulbs age in pretty much the same way as regular bulbs running at 1x.

Hope that helps
 
from how I understood the thread was people are using NO bulbs from home depot overdriven to run there tanks. NOT using regular SW bulbs that they already had
 
Well that's another story, if you know your bulbs or do enough research you can certainly find good bulbs to use that are not re-branded by companies that cater to our hobby. Many of these bulbs are indeed manufactured by larger companies such as GE, Sylvania and Philips.

However, if we look back to the first post, the objective is to match the Icecap ballasts using regular ballasts from hardware stores. But yes, these are two separate topics, one the use of regular ballasts to overdrive bulbs or for example to drive a VHO at regular power using a combination of ballast feeds. The other issue may be the use of regular daylight bulbs which I do use personally on my SPS tank however in combination with 20K MH bulbs so it's not fair for me to evaluate these bulbs by looking at the tank as a whole.

My experience lies mostly in planted tanks so I put some of those concepts into the reef setup too. I use daylight bulbs mostly for growth, once the tank is grown in I'll probably stick to 20K alone or in general higher kelvin ranges to enhance color and slow down growth rate.

But when in doubt, forget the HD bulbs and just overdrive your usual bulbs. That is what I'd do unless you have other reasons to want to change your existing bulbs.
 
gpodio
So you are 2xs overdriving T6 HO with good results? I found T5 HO x 2 ballast for $13. How good do the T-6 actinic work in OD.

your link works now! thanks
 
Mind sharing the source of the ballast you found? :D

The T6 bulbs I have been 2XOD are the 6500-6700K bulbs I use on my planted tanks. I am happy with them.

Unfortunately I have not tried the actinic T6 bulbs, the LFS I mentioned before is using them however on regular 54W T5 ballasts. Plus I have yet to try using a dedicated T5 ballast overdriving the T6 bulbs. I've been using the workhorse ballasts and T8 ballasts for the most part due to the difference in cost, however sounds like you just found a better deal than I have been able to find. T5 ballasts usually run at higher frequencies too so there may some differences when overdriving the bulbs with it, but it's worth a shot for $13. If you can, try it on an old T5 or T6 bulb first, some don't handle it as well as others, if you see flickering/sparking inside the tube near the endcaps, the filament is being burned out and bulb is toast. Another good option I've used in the past are 96W PC ballasts, these are close enough to 110W to call them nearly 2x on a 55W HO bulb and the nice thing is you don't need two circuits. Heat is also a little lower and the light output seems "close enough".

One thing worth noting is that ballasts usually run multiple circuits internally to run several bulbs. For example a 4x32W T8 ballast usually contains two independant circuits internally, each supplying power to two bulbs. Hence the pair of red and pair of blue wires. When combining feeds to overpower a bulb, I have always made it a rule for myself to combine only feeds from the one circuit. Therefore I never combine a red and blue lead. I haven't tried combining different circuits because my gut feeling tells me it may cause problems for some ballasts. For the same reason when I'm buying a ballast for two bulbs I always check that the two feeds are color coded the same, this usually indicates they are being fed by the same circuit. I would also not suggest combining feeds from two separate ballasts. It's been a while since I burned out a ballast but when magnetics were the norm I certainly killed my fair share playing around with this stuff.

Oh, last thing, some ballasts have protection circuits which help avoid overcurrent and detect when a bulb has reached it's end of life. These ballasts may refuse to overpower the bulbs so try to stick to "dumber" technology. I would imagine that some T5 ballasts are also using such technology.

Hope that helps, let me know where you're getting the ballasts from as my new tank arrives today and I'm planning on doing something similar with the actinic T6 bulbs.
 
Can anyone tell me how to properly wire this thing? I have read all through this post and cant figure out what im doing wrong. I have an Advance 4x32 ballast. it has 2 red wires and 2 blue wires on one side. On the other side it has a black and white and two yellow wires. i wired the black and white to the power cable, blk to blk and wht to wht. i scratched some paint off the ballast and wired the green (ground) directly to it. i then ran the two blu wires to eash side of one endcap, and two reds to each side of another endcap. i ran each yellow to an endcap, i split each yellow so it would touch both pins. I CANT GET IT TO LIGHT. I have a fish only for around 10 months and would like to try some soft corals but im kinda broke/cheap and want to try this lighting. btw, im trying to start two 17" bulbs with this, i think that is 4x overdrive?
 
oops, they are 24" bulbs, not 17"

here is my wiring:

power---blk/wht------------ballast------2red-------------,
,-----,-----2yellow-------ballast-----2blue---------, |
| | | |
| '-------------------LIGHT-------------------------' |
| |
'-------------------------LIGHT-----------------------------'


i hope this makes sense and is not completely stupid
 
ok, that didnt work, it got all jacked up after i posted it. anywho, its like i explained in the first post. i would really appreciate any help.
 
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