DIY kalk reactor idea.
- Thread starter msuzuki126
- Start date
JustOneMoreTank
New member
Prugs picture/diy project is the type that I am refering to. I made one 6 months ago. A group of us in a local reef club (Atlanta Southeast Marine and Fish Society) had a meeting and put one together. For the container we used a RODI stage or container. It already has and input and an exit for the water line. The water coming in is directed to the bottom of the canister with a piece of small thin PVC or RODI line (whichever as either will work). Then the fresh incoming water percolates and mixes thru the kalk powder sitting on the bottom. Only water that is clear and fully saturated with the kalk will make it to the top of the RODI container and to the exit.
It depends on how much kalk powder you put into the container for how long the reactor will last before you need to add more kalk. The larger the container the more kalk you can add and the less you have to mess with it.
I have some pictures on my home PC. After work I could post them if anyone still wants to see how I made one.
It depends on how much kalk powder you put into the container for how long the reactor will last before you need to add more kalk. The larger the container the more kalk you can add and the less you have to mess with it.
I have some pictures on my home PC. After work I could post them if anyone still wants to see how I made one.
shelburn61
New member
kalk doesnt need to be stirred to remain saturated in an airtight container. I just run RO topoff through a single RO filter cannister half-filled with kalk. new water entering the bottom of the cannister pushes the saturated kalkwasser out the top. I give the cannister a shake every few days to keep the kalk from clumping. $10
RichConley
New member
You guys are awesome. I never thought to use a RO/DI 10" canister.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
hmmm... I posted something last night but I think that RC went down and it got lost in cyberspace!?!?! I think RC has been having some issues recently.
Anyway I posted that I did not have the pictures up on photobucket.com like I thought that I did. I guess that I just took some pictures and then sent them to a friend who wanted to build one and then deleted what I had.
I can take some new pictures today because I have an extra unit that I built just for fun. I can deconstruct it and take pictures as I put it back together. I will get them up hopefully later today after work.
Dont give up on me.
Anyway I posted that I did not have the pictures up on photobucket.com like I thought that I did. I guess that I just took some pictures and then sent them to a friend who wanted to build one and then deleted what I had.
I can take some new pictures today because I have an extra unit that I built just for fun. I can deconstruct it and take pictures as I put it back together. I will get them up hopefully later today after work.
Dont give up on me.
prugs
Moving Out
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8265650#post8265650 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prugs
Note the small 90 degree angle at the end of the RO input line.
Thinking about my design a little more.
A large improvement would be to have the bottom in a funnel (V) shape. Then you could just have the inlet water enter at the very bottom of the (V). The kalk would always settle down at the bottom of the (V).
msuzuki126
New member
Whoa! This thread really blew up haha.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
Ok sorry for the long delay. Here are the pictures even though they are not that great they show all of the pieces and how easy it is to make the unit. You can get everything at HomeDepot or Lowes or other hardware/plumbing store.
First you need the container. I spent a little extra money and went ahead and bought a big (tall) empty RODI chamber/canister. The larger it is the more kalk it will hold. The taller it is the better to only get the clear saturated kalk water leaving the mixing chamber and not any of the powder on accident into the tank.
You also need some type of ball valve type piece to easily control the rate of water leaving the unit going into the sump or tank. I got a small piece that is used for RODI size line. Of course use the RODI line I cannot remember the diameter that the standard line is. Get the connections that join the RODI line to the threaded in and out of the RODI (or whatever container you decide to use). Be sure to use the teflon tape for a drip free seal.
First you need the container. I spent a little extra money and went ahead and bought a big (tall) empty RODI chamber/canister. The larger it is the more kalk it will hold. The taller it is the better to only get the clear saturated kalk water leaving the mixing chamber and not any of the powder on accident into the tank.
You also need some type of ball valve type piece to easily control the rate of water leaving the unit going into the sump or tank. I got a small piece that is used for RODI size line. Of course use the RODI line I cannot remember the diameter that the standard line is. Get the connections that join the RODI line to the threaded in and out of the RODI (or whatever container you decide to use). Be sure to use the teflon tape for a drip free seal.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
OK
Next you have the feed fresh top off RODI water from the supply running into the OUT of the canister lid. The inside of the canister lid has this water line running into the middle. You attach a bushing or actually it is called a reducer (you can see it in the picture) and the reducer fits on the piece/nipple inside the underside of the lid of the canister. This connects to the thinnest PVC or in my case CPVC that you can find. The thin PVC should be cut to extend to just short of the bottom of the inside of the canister. Place a cap on the end of the PVC with several holes drilled into the cap. The holes allow the pure water to push through the kalk powder sitting in the bottom of the canister. As the fresh water slowly perculates through the powder it becomes saturated with the kalk and only super clear saturated kalk water leaves from the top. This will leave out of the IN and leaves thru the RODI line.
I hope that I did not confuse everyone.
Here are some pictures.
Next you have the feed fresh top off RODI water from the supply running into the OUT of the canister lid. The inside of the canister lid has this water line running into the middle. You attach a bushing or actually it is called a reducer (you can see it in the picture) and the reducer fits on the piece/nipple inside the underside of the lid of the canister. This connects to the thinnest PVC or in my case CPVC that you can find. The thin PVC should be cut to extend to just short of the bottom of the inside of the canister. Place a cap on the end of the PVC with several holes drilled into the cap. The holes allow the pure water to push through the kalk powder sitting in the bottom of the canister. As the fresh water slowly perculates through the powder it becomes saturated with the kalk and only super clear saturated kalk water leaves from the top. This will leave out of the IN and leaves thru the RODI line.
I hope that I did not confuse everyone.
Here are some pictures.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
I have made a few just for fun. Here are a few in progress. One is completed.
I used the tall RODI canisters to hold lots of kalk powder and give plenty of time for the mixing to occur and to not get any cloudy water into the tank.
Here is the long stem of thin PVC (actually it is CPVC). This takes the fresh incoming water to the bottom of the chamber to be released thru the small drilled holes in the bottom of the PVC cap.
I used the tall RODI canisters to hold lots of kalk powder and give plenty of time for the mixing to occur and to not get any cloudy water into the tank.
Here is the long stem of thin PVC (actually it is CPVC). This takes the fresh incoming water to the bottom of the chamber to be released thru the small drilled holes in the bottom of the PVC cap.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
Listed on the top of my lid to the RODI canister is OUT and I use this as actually the in for the fresh water. Dont let it confuse you... as you are putting it together you will understand. Put the ball valve on this fresh water coming in because it will not get clogged with any thing because it is 0 TDS RODI water.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
The water goes in the lid and enters the PVC tube for a ride down to the bottom of the container.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
Here are the holes that I drilled to allow the water out in different directions at the bottom of the thin PVC at the the bottom. This will force the fresh incoming water to perculate thru the kalk powder waiting at the bottom. Drill about 5 or so small holes so the water can get out pretty easy.
Here is a picture showing some of the pieces.
Here is a picture showing some of the pieces.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
Ok... Here we are at the top of the DIY Kalk Top Off. The water leaves thru the lid by way of the IN port.
I did not list the parts or show pictures of the fittings that connect the RODI line to the female threaded pieces on the lid of the RODI canister. It is pretty easy and 5 minutes in the plumbing section and you can have it screwed together no problem.
I did not list the parts or show pictures of the fittings that connect the RODI line to the female threaded pieces on the lid of the RODI canister. It is pretty easy and 5 minutes in the plumbing section and you can have it screwed together no problem.
JustOneMoreTank
New member
There! I hope you all enjoy! Super easy to make and much much cheaper than the Kalk Reactors that you can buy made from acrylic with the magnetic stir bars or the ones powered by pumps. The pumps will clog and fail in this application anyway. Or you will get an addition of the murky kalk water some day when the pump is on. 
This can be run inline with your Top Off system. I have seen some people use this type of system just gravity fed. Use the ball valve to control the rate of the drips into the sump. Works great.
You can give the entire unit a big shake if you want to but it is unnessary to stir up the Kalk powder.
Any questions just go ahead and ask away...
Do you think that I should make this into a new thread all on its own? Is it worth it so that people can see it?
This can be run inline with your Top Off system. I have seen some people use this type of system just gravity fed. Use the ball valve to control the rate of the drips into the sump. Works great.
You can give the entire unit a big shake if you want to but it is unnessary to stir up the Kalk powder.
Any questions just go ahead and ask away...
Do you think that I should make this into a new thread all on its own? Is it worth it so that people can see it?
