DIY LED driver for reef lighting

1) I doubt that there is any point in grounding the heatsink. The transformer in the PS galvanically decouples mains and the LED circuits, so not current will flow to the ground. There is not closed cicuit there, imho.

2) But shorting i meant shorting with your own body. The body R is a lot higher than R of leds, so driver will rise voltage to rise current (like you added
tons of leds :) ) If something just short in a usual way the driver will shutdown automatically and it is no hazard to anyone or anything.
 
1) I doubt that there is any point in grounding the heatsink. The transformer in the PS galvanically decouples mains and the LED circuits, so not current will flow to the ground. There is not closed cicuit there, imho.

Yes there is still reason to ground the heatsink. You can have capacitive or inductive coupling to the metal. If for whatever reason there is a fault to the heatsink and you are referenced to Earth and the heatsink is physically bonded to EARTH then you can't be shocked by just touching the heatsink. Many switching supplies have leakage inductance that can still get you. Often the switching supply is galvanically isolated only to have it alternately coupled thru the EMI filter network.
 
Umm. Let's clear this a bit. The switching POWER SUPPLY (220v in my case to 18V) is located far away from the heat sink. About 1 meter away.
What's need the heatsink are the drivers. The drivers hardly can any capacitive coupling, not to mention at such big distance (several cm). Inducative - i don't know, but i don't it can be anything high.
Now, if there a fault to the heatsink (it is very high prob fault actually in such setup) if i touch only the heatsink and nothing else - nothing will happen. No current flow, right?
If i touch the other terminal for leds then the driver will shutdown almost instantly because of OVP.If the heatsink is grounded and and faulted and i touch only the heatsink nothig will happen too. If i touch the other termnial - i'll get shocked anyway and OVP will save my butt.

So, the PS is just too far any coupling. Though, i am not good at this area at all. I'd day i'm very bad at it :) Do you think coupling can happen at such distance from the PS and through all the drivers with high freq controlling?
 
It doesn't matter what distance you have since the coupling and fault possibilities are all in the power supply.

OVP is not in-any-way there for your safety.

You are right if the heatsink isn't grounded and there is a fault to it and you touch only the heatsink, you won't be shocked. BUT that means you are standing on two drinking glasses or suspended on silk ropes from a dirigible, I doubt this will be the case. Instead you would likely be standing on damp carpet in your bare feet.

If you touch one side of the string and the other side you might get a little shock at 24V -probably more like a discernible tingle. Do it on a 48V string and you would probably experience a painful shock. Shocks of this type are generally not serious, the bigger problem is what happens after the shock. Like how far you fall from the ladder or what your head hits when you recoil...

If you have touchable metal associated in any way with a power cord to a wall outlet, it's simple, you should ground all the various metal parts.

If you want to argue about all sorts of possible scenarios of how you could avoid proper grounding I'm really not interested.
 
kcress, sorry if it seems that i am arguing. Not, that's not what i am into. I have no problem with grounding any piece of metal around wet areas :) Actually, on another forum i offered to ground it some time ago and some people just laughed at me and that that i am being silly. No explanation followed though. And i cannot explain how it would help either. It is just automatic thing for me since i did all lights in the apartment - i ground everything and then check that the grounding actually works with a resistor connected to mains.

The thing is that i cannot really undertand what's going on in here. As i understand as a protection just from the DC voltage after and before the driver ground will not work. Right? This is the first question.

Next, i understand that the danger comes from coupling in PS. And that's totally out of my grasp of the issue. How much current can go through this coupling? Is there way to test if it is there or not?
 
I would love to see large capacity design layouts here.

I would love to see large capacity design layouts here.

Different subject but ST just released a demoboard for showcasing one of their microcontrollers as a LED driver. It's a buck design with 4 channels on the board, each capable of 10 HP LEDs (so, 40 LEDs per board). It's $85 at Mouser. The part number is STEVAL-ILL031V1. This is about twice the cost per LED as our DIY design but might be worth playing with or reverse engineering for those looking for a "larger" capacity design.

I own an Aquarium Store and am looking at converting all my T5 lighting on my Live Stock Tanks (currently 48 x 48" & 5 x 72" with more to come) to LED to save on power consumption generated both by powering the ballast and cooling the resulting heat from the ballast and the T5's, plus the cost of replacing the bulbs once a year. You cannot imagine how much power we pull here . Entergy is about to put up a second transformer for us, and is looking at putting in a third phase on our street.
I'm hoping to be able help you guy's with your purchasing and organizing efforts.

Question is, are you guy's interested in my participation since I am a retailer? What I think I can bring to the table, is Organization of the Wiki, and purchasing power.
I'm looking at converting my fish tanks from dual T5 and my Coral/Plant Tanks (HQI & VHO T12) to the equivalent in LED.
I would also like to sell the resulting LED system to other Aquarium Stores, after I iron out all the bugs, which will hopefully enable them to pass on this cost savings to you the consumer.
Additionally, I would like to put kit's together (Finished PCB's & Parts) for the less electronically inclined DIY'ers so that they can benefit from this great project.

Let me know what you guy's think of this.

--Mike
 
I would also like to sell the resulting LED system to other Aquarium Stores, after I iron out all the bugs, which will hopefully enable them to pass on this cost savings to you the consumer.
Additionally, I would like to put kit's together (Finished PCB's & Parts) for the less electronically inclined DIY'ers so that they can benefit from this great project.
--Mike

Due to feedback posted here, I would like to redact these lines and offer my apologies. I had no intention of offending RC policy.

Look forward to seeing how this thread progresses.

--Mike
 
PCB for CAT 4101

PCB for CAT 4101

Greetings,

if anyone has some leftovers, I am interested on two PCBs with the triple driver (DWZM design for CAT 4101). Please PM. Many thanks.

cheers,
MaLi
 
Safety

Safety

I just realized that i totally overlooked the safety issue. And if a boost regulator will boost up to 50V then it can possible give out 33mA through the body if everything is dry. If you are wet it can be a lot worse. 33mA.
According to this http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/4.html
it must be kept under 50mA at all costs for DC, because any higher and you will not be able to let go of the wires. It seems like 50V is too dangerous in the wet area because R of body under bad condition can drop to 100 Ohms
(see http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/4.html) that will will pass 0.5A through the body and this can kill you.

So, I think to feed everything from 12-18V PS. 12V is considered safe for wet areas in general.
The use buck-boost driver to feed 12leds per drivers and set overvoltage protection to 42V or something like that. So, if i short on PS side then it is simply safe due to low voltage. If i short after the driver then the driver will try to restore programmed current level and will rise voltage. When voltage will get to 42V OVP will shutdown the driver and release me from the current :)
And the PS must be sealed and kept above the floor.
What do you think?

Please don't kill yourself. Never use electronics that aren't fused and properly grounded! If you don't know how to do that, learn before you hurt yourself!

I have extensive examples of how to safely build LED electronics on my website at http://web.mit.edu/neltnerb/www/artwork/ and http://saikoled.com

They are not intended to deal with water environments, or open LEDs though. You should make absolutely sure that things are grounded so that if high voltage gets into the water, it shorts to ground and blows out a fuse (or even just your wall circuit breaker!) instead of going through your body. For example, grounding the water itself in a salt water fish tank should make it so that if you dropped the high voltage into the tank, it shorts out to earth ground right away.

Best regards,
Brian
 
I have some thoughts on this issues people are having here, and the increasing complexity of peoples designs versus other folks DIY skills and willingness to deal with custom PCBs, SMT parts, etc.

I recently had a discussion of the merits of CAT4101 driver on another thread, that can be summed up to "high efficiency and lower heat dissipation because it has lower dropout voltage". The thing is that there are alot of great regulators out there, better than this one by a good bit in fact, but they are limited on input voltage.

Now I'm not totally sure this will work, but I strongly think so. We can run the regulator on the low side of the circuit, having the LEDs feed power into the Vin line. By doing this, the highest voltage seen by a 6-LED string on a 24V supply is about 3 volts, meaning some really great regulators become available to us. This also open up the potential to drive more LEDs from the same driver... For instance 25 LEDs on a 90V supply is only 2.5V at the regulator, so you can use the exact same driver. (Of course this only works for LDO type regulators). I saw someone trying to do this on another thread, and would be super-simple this way.

Can anyone think of a reason this wont work? FYI I just tried it at 24V and it works perfectly... checked voltages at all pins vs ground with the multi-meter too and everything is about right.

Second, I'm not sure everyone is doing this but you should ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS run these regulators in current-controlled mode. This eliminates most of the problems are seeing with variation in LEDs voltages. LEDs are not voltage-based devices, they are current-based.
 
regulators

regulators

I have some thoughts on this issues people are having here, and the increasing complexity of peoples designs versus other folks DIY skills and willingness to deal with custom PCBs, SMT parts, etc.

I recently had a discussion of the merits of CAT4101 driver on another thread, that can be summed up to "high efficiency and lower heat dissipation because it has lower dropout voltage". The thing is that there are alot of great regulators out there, better than this one by a good bit in fact, but they are limited on input voltage.

Now I'm not totally sure this will work, but I strongly think so. We can run the regulator on the low side of the circuit, having the LEDs feed power into the Vin line. By doing this, the highest voltage seen by a 6-LED string on a 24V supply is about 3 volts, meaning some really great regulators become available to us. This also open up the potential to drive more LEDs from the same driver... For instance 25 LEDs on a 90V supply is only 2.5V at the regulator, so you can use the exact same driver. (Of course this only works for LDO type regulators). I saw someone trying to do this on another thread, and would be super-simple this way.

Can anyone think of a reason this wont work? FYI I just tried it at 24V and it works perfectly... checked voltages at all pins vs ground with the multi-meter too and everything is about right.

Second, I'm not sure everyone is doing this but you should ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS run these regulators in current-controlled mode. This eliminates most of the problems are seeing with variation in LEDs voltages. LEDs are not voltage-based devices, they are current-based.

Hi!

You are absolutely right. If you use an open-drain current sink (there are many of these, and this is the name you should search for to find similar parts), you can connect up an arbitrary number of LEDs in a chain.

The limiting factor on these is mostly in the heat dissipation. The regulator at the bottom is usually linearly regulating whatever voltage is left at the bottom of the chain down to ground at a fairly high current. For example, the 2.5V you suggest at 700mA is producing 1.75W of heat, and that's a fairly benign example.

The biggest problem you will find is that LEDs have fairly wide forward voltage tolerances. So while they might be typically at 3.2V, the *actual* Vf at 700mA might vary from 2.6 to 4.0V! Now, statistically if you had a random sampling and the parts were distributed with a normal function around 3.2V, adding many LEDs would result in a tighter average. However, for any parts you purchase you are likely to see a strong correlation between them because they will be from the same manufacturing line at the same time. So if one LED is 2.9V instead of 3.2V, they are *all* likely to be.

So instead of those errors balancing out, they will compound each other. With a 25 LED chain, that fairly small .3V error in the datasheet means a variation in the total voltage drop of 7.5V. So suddenly, the 2.5V you calculated you'd be dropping at the bottom is *10V* and now you're dissipating 7W from a relatively small SOIC chip.

Even worse, you have to design for the worst case in the *other* direction. If you don't have at least a volt or two at the bottom, you have no regulation capacity, so you have to assume the worst, in which case you're assuming a 4V drop in the design phase, but only a 2.6V drop is actually present! This 1.4V less Vf per LED means you're now dropping *35V* at the bottom, and trying to dissipate almost 25W! That will melt just about any standard chip.

So, the only way to design a system that does this reliably in practice if you are using one of these open-drain linear regulators is to do it completely custom for each system. That way you have measured instead of estimated values for the total Vf. In other words, if you happened to have 35V across that last LED to the regulator, you would just throw on another 12 LEDs, or drop the input voltage.

Another way to help with this is to put in a power resistor at the top of the LED chain to drop the current somewhere other than the main regulator. That spreads out the heat generation beyond the more fragile silicon.

Personally, I highly recommend switching regulators such as the LM3404 and LM3406 for these sorts of high power applications. They will not have any of these problems, but they do have those voltage limits that you won't see otherwise (because they are controlling a power transistor at the top of the chain).

Best,
Brian
 
I have a bit of a problem I cant seem to figure out that im hoping someone here might have an idea how to fix. Im running DWZM's cat 4101 triple drivers theyve worked great for the last 6 months but yesterday i noticed one string out of the 3 strings on my blue doesnt shut off when the pmw signal is cut. I switched out the board to my spare board and the problems still there, same string of 6 wont shut off but the other 2 strings still do. Any ideas?
 
I have a bit of a problem I cant seem to figure out that im hoping someone here might have an idea how to fix. Im running DWZM's cat 4101 triple drivers theyve worked great for the last 6 months but yesterday i noticed one string out of the 3 strings on my blue doesnt shut off when the pmw signal is cut. I switched out the board to my spare board and the problems still there, same string of 6 wont shut off but the other 2 strings still do. Any ideas?

Could be a short in the wiring, so PWM from another channel is touching the one that won't go off, or the output wiring is touching......
 
All three channels are run off the same pmw signal. I switched one of the strings that was turning off to the channel that wasnt turning off and now that string doesnt turn off, but the string that used to not turn off now turns off on a diff channel of the board if that makes any sense.
 
On an unpower boards check that all 3 PWMs are connected and are connected to the incoming PWM signal. Also check if any of them are shorted to ground.

Since it is happening on two boards its sounds like a design or manufacturing fault. Since others are using it I will rule out design. Do you have a blank boards? Check the traces on a bare board and see if they make sense.
 
The thing is I can cut the 5v power and the pmw signal completely to the one cat 4101 and the leds still stay lit. Maybe il try replacing 4101 and see if maybe thats the problem.
 
How long have you had the 5 volt off for. It could be capacitance. With no PWM (open) mine do not come on when power is applied. So if you apply 24V (or so) to the LEDs, 5 volts on the Vcc power line of the CAT and no signal on PWM it stays on? All three or just the one channel? One board or both?
 
This sounds exactly like a fault in the board or a solder bridge. With everything off and the driver board out of circuit, it should be simple to find the fault by probing for continuity.

FWIW, the LEDs should only come on when you have +24v, +5v, and a signal on the PWM pin. Take away any one of those three and they should turn off.
 
Hey guys quick question on those who've generated the Gerber files for the Triple CAT 4101 board. I downloaded the CAM file from seeedstudio and then opened the resulting Gerber files in VIEWPLOT and the holes for the 4 Corners and all the VIA openings aren't lined up. Is this normal or could I have done something wrong. Just curious if others tried viewing their generated Gerber files and saw the same thing.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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