DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)

Awesome build, but I would be careful with optics that narrow that close to the water. On my large tank I have the common white 40 degree optics on my XP-series LEDs, mounted roughly 24" up, and it's a pretty tight beam even by the time it hits the sandbed.
 
Light fixture

Light fixture

Awesome build, but I would be careful with optics that narrow that close to the water. On my large tank I have the common white 40 degree optics on my XP-series LEDs, mounted roughly 24" up, and it's a pretty tight beam even by the time it hits the sandbed.

Thanks Wille :) I have 70, 40 degree lenses and 70, 60 degree lenses and i was going to try 80s for the XM-Ls. The 40s i was going to use only on the outside edges and MAYBE if i wanted to spot something. The rest would get 60s however being as the fixture will be roughly 10" from the surface,(even closer at each end), maybe i'll just use the 60s on the outside edges and none for the rest. I am not sure if i should use 80's on the XM-Ls or just leave as is. I think what i'll have to do is take some par readings and see what happens.
 
What optics did you get your hands on for the XM-Ls? The optics I have for them are garbage. Clearly wider than advertised, lots of spill out the sides, and they have a huge flat base that makes them hard to mount to an MCPCB with wires soldered on the pads. I am on the verge of modifying the common white XP-series optics to fit on my XM-Ls.
 
Light Fixture

Light Fixture

What optics did you get your hands on for the XM-Ls? The optics I have for them are garbage. Clearly wider than advertised, lots of spill out the sides, and they have a huge flat base that makes them hard to mount to an MCPCB with wires soldered on the pads. I am on the verge of modifying the common white XP-series optics to fit on my XM-Ls.
Here is the link to the site: I believe normally the viewing angle w/o a lens for the XM-L is 120 degrees.
http://www.ledlink-optics.com/
This is the part number of the lens i was given: LL01NI-GR80L06

which i believe is this one:

http://www.ledlink-optics.com/ProductsDefault.aspx?ID=5BA934BE4A974DFBB61EC5223ED7F4DF
 
Interesting that they list them compatible with XM-L and XP (and a whole ton of other LEDs). It looks like the opening is XM-L sized so it should fit over an XP easily.

Do you have a source? If they're cheap I might get some of those vs. modifying the common XP-series optics.
 
Light Fixture

Light Fixture

Interesting that they list them compatible with XM-L and XP (and a whole ton of other LEDs). It looks like the opening is XM-L sized so it should fit over an XP easily.

Do you have a source? If they're cheap I might get some of those vs. modifying the common XP-series optics.

Here is what i have Wille:

Ledlink Optics, Inc.

Overseas Sales Department

15F,No.655,Bannan Rd.,Chung-Ho Dist,
New Taipei City,Taiwan.

Tel: +886-2-8227-6126 ex: 3131

Fax: +886-2-8227-6127

E-mail: joseph_huang@ledlink-optics.com

http://www.ledlink-optics.com/

I have not yet contacted him via phone. If you want to combine an order,i'm looking at about 30 of the ones i mentioned.
 
Fishman, the PS i'm using for the XM-Ls is a SP 100-24. If my math is correct:

sp 100-24@ 4.5A/1.5A = 3 strings of 6 for a total of 18 XM-Ls.
3.1Vf x 1.5 x 18 = 83.7Watts

18 Xm-Ls is exactly what i'm using. Your CATs are limited to 1A however the documentation for them says they can be run in pairs for 2A.

Can i run all 18 through 2 CATs or do i have to use 2 CATS for each string of 6?
 
Hi,

I am doing 4 linear bars with 24 LEDs per bar. Two bars with 24 royal blue one bar with 24 cool whites and one bar with 6 cool white 6 neutral white and 12 royal blue. I want to be able to dim the blues and whites through my apex controller. Was looking to get the Mean Well HLG-185-42B Constant Current Driver. Not sure I really understand what the parallel means, can I just run the two bars of 24 royal blue of one driver and the rest off another driver.

this is layout of leds

bar one- rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb

bar two- cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw cw

bar three- cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb ce rb nw rb

bar four- rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb rb


Is the driver I have above the correct one and will it work.

Do you think I should change the two all royal blue bars and do a rb cw rb cw patten to get proper mixing of the colors?
 
I would try to evenly spread the whites into the whole unit, some on each bars. Especially if they are separated by a few inches... Wiring won't be as neat crossing from one bar to another, but mixing will not be nearly as bad i think.

That driver will run 12 LEDs in series, so a 24 LED bar will need 2 parallel strings. But as that driver can do 2.2A-4.4A you could do up to 4 parallel strings and still max out the blues. So yes, it can do 2 bars, but in 4 parallel strings.
 
bar one- rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb

bar two- cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb cw rb

bar three- cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb cw rb nw rb

bar four- rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb cw rb rb

Does this mix look better?
 
I would go all neutral. I don't think you will get good spread with just 6 NW. I also find my CW RB fixture is missing some of the red. I did one for a friend that was NW and RB and a quick look over my tank said the color was much better. Of course color is personal preverence :)
 
Thanks guys.

The plan...
FinalLEDarrangement.jpg


The results...
(before putting the cover on the project box)
Front.jpg


Layout.jpg


I'm adding the splash shield and raising the fixture about an inch. Preliminary numbers, without optics, are as shown below. These were taken with a meter that did not have an 'electric' option. Any thoughts on how to scale these for that? Any further thoughts on how much blue PAR might not be picked up?
FinalLEDarrangementPARbmp.jpg
 
I have not redone mine (CW and RB). But I did do one for some one that was only NW and RB. A held it over the tank so I could not get a great few, but first impression is the NW and RB looked much better. That also appears to be the current recommendation from those that have experimented IMHO (you need something besides CW). So if yo don't want to go full NW maybe 50/50.
 
Ideally I think you'd have some of each flavor of white. All cool white looks washed out, for sure - neutral and cool gives better color rendering but some corals still don't look like what you'd expect. I have some dark purple corals (a bushy acro and a tricolor) that practically look black - it's cool, and I don't mind it, but something tells me most people would not like it.
 
Looking for advice on color mix by those in the know. I know that color is a personal preference but looking for something that someone going from junk lighting (stock walmart 20 watt light the tank) getting into corals softies and LPS, maybe some SPS down the road.

Over a 55g tank, I was thinking 36 leds in the 4 RB:1 CW:1 NW (whites are XP-G's)

Should I be mixing in some Warm White, Blue, or Green LED's? Other colors or is the 4:1:1 mixture going to give good color?
 
I think you'll be happy with that ratio. You may want a couple warms in place of a couple NWs just to get some diversity, but of course - personal preference.

Worst case, order a few extra, and swap ratios to get what you want.
 
fishman,

what is the color temp of the RB NW mix you are talking about. Is is more 14k or more 20k look?
 
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