TheFishMan65
New member
I would just use batteries (or a fixed PS and some resistors) for a test case - it will be much cheaper. You won't have fine control, but you should be able to see the color change.
DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)
- Thread starter TheFishMan65
- Start date
S2minute
New member
LEDs
LEDs
I've gone from NEVER doing any soldering to becomming a solding madman. I'm almost done with that part though..i hope. ATM, i'm soldering the string wire connectors and placing the wires in cable organizers :wildone: I find that when i discover a short to screw, it's most of the time not because the screw is touching the star so much as the solder joint SUCKs..and when i resolder a pictular joint, it solves the problem. Does that make sence? lol
I could prob use a slightly more pwerful station than a 40W. Anyway, i added an updated album to my profile if anyone is interested. You can see the new LED fixture there as well, as it's being built.
LEDs
I've gone from NEVER doing any soldering to becomming a solding madman. I'm almost done with that part though..i hope. ATM, i'm soldering the string wire connectors and placing the wires in cable organizers :wildone: I find that when i discover a short to screw, it's most of the time not because the screw is touching the star so much as the solder joint SUCKs..and when i resolder a pictular joint, it solves the problem. Does that make sence? lol
I could prob use a slightly more pwerful station than a 40W. Anyway, i added an updated album to my profile if anyone is interested. You can see the new LED fixture there as well, as it's being built.
TheFishMan65
New member
Try and orient ths starts and screw such that the solder location is not adjacent to the screws. Since most of use 2 screws there are 2 connection that are not near a screw.
joegoersch
New member
tagging along
Can someone point me to or explain how to know where to set the drivers at?
I have them set the way they came right now and just used the dimmer to dim them. I read a few places where people talked about using a volt meter and setting them around 700? Can someone explain how to check this after I have wired everything up and if that number is a good goal or if I should be shooting for something else.
Thanks!
I have them set the way they came right now and just used the dimmer to dim them. I read a few places where people talked about using a volt meter and setting them around 700? Can someone explain how to check this after I have wired everything up and if that number is a good goal or if I should be shooting for something else.
Thanks!
TheFishMan65
New member
Search for meanwell in the DIY section. There was a good right up in one of those with meanwell as the title. If you can't find it I will search for it - sorry I can't remember what it is right now.
Maine_fisher
New member
Nano Tank LED Build
Nano Tank LED Build
Hi All:
I would like to begin doing a DIY LED project. It will be a small 15" X 11" x 11" nano tank. I would like the fixuture to be approximately 4" off the water and placed in the wood aquarium cover that I am building. It is a fish only tank so I think it is good place to start with DIY LEDs. Some of the questions I have are as follows:
1. How many 3 watt LEDs do I need? I sort of resolved that only three LEDs (two whites and one royal blue) might be enough power but not enough spread of the light.
2. Would it be better to go with 1 watt LEDs and more of them to get the spread? not sure want opinions on this.
3. I would like to the LEDs to be designed well enough such that I can eliminate the need for dimming. Is this a miskate?
4. Is my distance of 4" too low considering this project? If so, what should I use?
Thanks,
Rick
Nano Tank LED Build
Hi All:
I would like to begin doing a DIY LED project. It will be a small 15" X 11" x 11" nano tank. I would like the fixuture to be approximately 4" off the water and placed in the wood aquarium cover that I am building. It is a fish only tank so I think it is good place to start with DIY LEDs. Some of the questions I have are as follows:
1. How many 3 watt LEDs do I need? I sort of resolved that only three LEDs (two whites and one royal blue) might be enough power but not enough spread of the light.
2. Would it be better to go with 1 watt LEDs and more of them to get the spread? not sure want opinions on this.
3. I would like to the LEDs to be designed well enough such that I can eliminate the need for dimming. Is this a miskate?
4. Is my distance of 4" too low considering this project? If so, what should I use?
Thanks,
Rick
TheFishMan65
New member
1) Pick a driver and then decied. (Assuming an ELN) I would go 12.
2) Will you ever go to a bigger tank and expand? I would use the 3w as they tend to be more efficient and use less electricity. Age old question go cheap not and pay forever, go expensive and save later.
3) IMHO yes, initial acclimation will be much harder and you may need acclimation later
4) Probably Ok with no lenses. May need 6 inches.
2) Will you ever go to a bigger tank and expand? I would use the 3w as they tend to be more efficient and use less electricity. Age old question go cheap not and pay forever, go expensive and save later.
3) IMHO yes, initial acclimation will be much harder and you may need acclimation later
4) Probably Ok with no lenses. May need 6 inches.
Maine_fisher
New member
Okay...so I understand you are saying 12 3w LEDs with an ELN driver. This tank will also be served by these LEDs. My next project will be bigger for my other tank (57 gallon rimless). I am thinking dimmer and no lenses. Would I then keep everthing in the center of the heatsink to avoid spill over light? Please also recommend a dimmable driver for this project? Given FOWLR, what LEDs would you guys recommend?
With 12 LEDs now do I need to incorporate a fan into this project?
Thanks!!!!
TheFishMan65
New member
IMHO start about 4 inches in. A lot of light will hit the glass, but if not the upper corners maybe dark. I would look at the ELN-40-48D unless you have a controller.
I would do 4 XP-G NW and 8 XT-E RB.
Probably no fan unless you decide you want a lot of light, but plan on one and then if needed you are covered. It can probably ruin off the same supply as the dimming circuit.
I would do 4 XP-G NW and 8 XT-E RB.
Probably no fan unless you decide you want a lot of light, but plan on one and then if needed you are covered. It can probably ruin off the same supply as the dimming circuit.
ctreefer
New member
Question on temperatures. I'm hoping I didn't overpack my heatsink. I've got a total of 36 Cree LED's (mix of xpg whites (12) and royal blue (24)) on a 6" x 16" heatsink.
I'm running them on meanwell 64 48Ds. The whites are at about 850 mA and the blues about 750mA when maxed. I just did a temperature check after running the lights one hour in a room temperature of 60F. The highest temp I read was 150F using one of those point and shoot temp readers. I had to place some black tape over the areas being read as it wasn't picking up the right temp I guess due to reflection.
That seems really hot. I will be installing this heatsink into an old light fixture that's oversized (16"x24"x2.5"). I will be using 2 fans in the unit each claiming about 30CFM. Do you think this will be adequate to keep the temp down? What is the max acceptable temp?
thanks
I'm running them on meanwell 64 48Ds. The whites are at about 850 mA and the blues about 750mA when maxed. I just did a temperature check after running the lights one hour in a room temperature of 60F. The highest temp I read was 150F using one of those point and shoot temp readers. I had to place some black tape over the areas being read as it wasn't picking up the right temp I guess due to reflection.
That seems really hot. I will be installing this heatsink into an old light fixture that's oversized (16"x24"x2.5"). I will be using 2 fans in the unit each claiming about 30CFM. Do you think this will be adequate to keep the temp down? What is the max acceptable temp?
thanks
TheFishMan65
New member
150F is probably ok. The junction can run at 150C, but it won't last long. My rule of thumb is if you can't touch the heat sink it is too hot. This puts the heat sink at about 110-120F. Probably two fans will take care of it. I was surprised how little flow was needed to keep them cool.
OK, I am almost ready to start installing LED's.
My array is 7 rows of 7 LED's. There will be 3 banks like this over the tank. They will be mounted about 10 in above the water surface.
My tank is primarily SPS and is 24 in wide by 72 in long by 32 in tall. I am thinking I will use a 1:1 mix of neutral white and royal blue with a set of other colors mixed in to fill out the spectrum. These will be 4 Turquoise, 4 Deep Red and 4 Deep Violet.
My question: For these fill in colors should I go with the same 60 deg optic or go for wider spread with a 120 optic?
Opinions?
Thanks,
Mark
My array is 7 rows of 7 LED's. There will be 3 banks like this over the tank. They will be mounted about 10 in above the water surface.
My tank is primarily SPS and is 24 in wide by 72 in long by 32 in tall. I am thinking I will use a 1:1 mix of neutral white and royal blue with a set of other colors mixed in to fill out the spectrum. These will be 4 Turquoise, 4 Deep Red and 4 Deep Violet.
My question: For these fill in colors should I go with the same 60 deg optic or go for wider spread with a 120 optic?
Opinions?
Thanks,
Mark
Mixing LED's on one Driver
Mixing LED's on one Driver
Hello,
Here is a basic question, if I have a single Meanwell 60-48P can I run a combo of XP-G's, XT-E's, XP-E's or other 3w LED's on it?
My current build is 36 LED with 12 white XPG on one driver and 24 RB XTE on two other drivers and eventually I would like to add another 12 leds to the build but I don't really want to add two drivers to make this happen or go back and wire them in parallel. So I'm wondering as long as I keep the amps below the limit of the lowest LED am I ok to mix the types?
Dan
Mixing LED's on one Driver
Hello,
Here is a basic question, if I have a single Meanwell 60-48P can I run a combo of XP-G's, XT-E's, XP-E's or other 3w LED's on it?
My current build is 36 LED with 12 white XPG on one driver and 24 RB XTE on two other drivers and eventually I would like to add another 12 leds to the build but I don't really want to add two drivers to make this happen or go back and wire them in parallel. So I'm wondering as long as I keep the amps below the limit of the lowest LED am I ok to mix the types?
Dan
Yes. Also, keep in mind the total forward voltages required by the LEDs. Should be fine if you don't exceed 12-14 LED's depending on LEDs.
I'm looking at the idea of removing my mh's that has small spider reflectors and replacing it with cree leds. I have just enough room for a 1.1" wide heat sink like one of Rapid leds. I have a 4" fan on each end of the fixture. If I use there good 4 fin heat sink with fans for cooling. How close together can I space them.
Thanks
Sent from mobile
Thanks
Sent from mobile
Last edited:
reeferdale
New member
252 LED rig - Dimming?
252 LED rig - Dimming?
Hi all,
Hope I am not hijaking here. was advised this is a place we can post ?
I bought 4 of the meanwell HLG-240-48b drivers and I finally have 2 of them wired up to my LED array. I have 1 running 6 strings of 11 (66) XP-G cool whites and the other driver running 5 strings of 12 XP-E royal blues (60). This is half my led array. I have the reefled dimming kit (2 pots in the case). I have these wired up and when I put a meter on the pot outputs, I can see the volts go from 1 - 10, I also see the voltage change on the wire that I am running to the blue (+) wire of the driver. When I turn the pots up and down, the LEDs get brighter and dimmer but my concern is that each string is running about 600 to 1000 mA and I can not get them to turn down any lower than 600. I know I need to balance my strings but my concern is that these do not dial down to the 200 or 300 mA range. I do not think I will ever want to run these up in the 800 - 1000 mA range. Can anyone throw me any suggestions on why they will not dim below 600mA?
I have my driver leads running to wiring blocks. wire in , fuse, 1ohm 3 watt resistor and then out to the first LED of the string. I measured vf across the resistors and they are all over the board, 600, 800, 800+, etc. I know I need to start swapping some LEDs to get the strings balanced but it just seems odd that even when these are dialed all the way down, the vf across the resitors is never lower than 600 mA.
I have not measured from first LED to last LED and I have not measured the vf of each LED yet. I did not want to let them run that high and that out of balaance for long, plus it is almost impossible to work on them at 600 mA. I could post some pics of the wiring and such, just wondering if there may be something I missed inthe build. internal pot on the driver, etc.?
Here is the basis for my parallel wiring layout.
252 LED rig - Dimming?
Hi all,
Hope I am not hijaking here. was advised this is a place we can post ?
I bought 4 of the meanwell HLG-240-48b drivers and I finally have 2 of them wired up to my LED array. I have 1 running 6 strings of 11 (66) XP-G cool whites and the other driver running 5 strings of 12 XP-E royal blues (60). This is half my led array. I have the reefled dimming kit (2 pots in the case). I have these wired up and when I put a meter on the pot outputs, I can see the volts go from 1 - 10, I also see the voltage change on the wire that I am running to the blue (+) wire of the driver. When I turn the pots up and down, the LEDs get brighter and dimmer but my concern is that each string is running about 600 to 1000 mA and I can not get them to turn down any lower than 600. I know I need to balance my strings but my concern is that these do not dial down to the 200 or 300 mA range. I do not think I will ever want to run these up in the 800 - 1000 mA range. Can anyone throw me any suggestions on why they will not dim below 600mA?
I have my driver leads running to wiring blocks. wire in , fuse, 1ohm 3 watt resistor and then out to the first LED of the string. I measured vf across the resistors and they are all over the board, 600, 800, 800+, etc. I know I need to start swapping some LEDs to get the strings balanced but it just seems odd that even when these are dialed all the way down, the vf across the resitors is never lower than 600 mA.
I have not measured from first LED to last LED and I have not measured the vf of each LED yet. I did not want to let them run that high and that out of balaance for long, plus it is almost impossible to work on them at 600 mA. I could post some pics of the wiring and such, just wondering if there may be something I missed inthe build. internal pot on the driver, etc.?
Here is the basis for my parallel wiring layout.
