Well Ill probably budget for the 48 light setup. Might as well do it since it gives me more options.
If I dont have any more space to raise the distance between the lights and water then I will stick with XP-G whites.
Thanks for your help.
DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)
- Thread starter TheFishMan65
- Start date
Well Ill probably budget for the 48 light setup. Might as well do it since it gives me more options.
If I dont have any more space to raise the distance between the lights and water then I will stick with XP-G whites.
Thanks for your help.
reeferdale
New member
kcress, I finally finished balancing all my strings last night. Ready to put on the splash shields and hanging hardware. I just need to build the harness with the molex plugs I bought so I can unplug everything. I have been looking for a reference of just how close these strings need to be. Most strings are within 15 mA, but a few are +20 and -25 which is a range 45. I have seen conflicting info that they should be within 30 or 50 mA? Since I am only running them at 700 mA for the blue and white, does it really matter if some of them are at 750 ish? they can handle 1000 and 11500 mA?
I plan on posting all my final numbers later tonight
I plan on posting all my final numbers later tonight
Last edited:
kcress
New member
Volts.. ?? Your question does not compute.
I have no clue what your 15V is referring to.
Measuring the current via the 1ohm resistors should show your strings to all be within 50mA.
If you're running ELN drivers do not push that driver above about 1.4A unless you only want to run for a few months..
I have no clue what your 15V is referring to.
Measuring the current via the 1ohm resistors should show your strings to all be within 50mA.
If you're running ELN drivers do not push that driver above about 1.4A unless you only want to run for a few months..
Hmmmmm. I like your thinking. so maybe do a set of 24 lights and a cluster of 3 for the anemone.
This should allow me to have the the reefs and the anemone, Right?
reeferdale
New member
Sorry, you must have read this right when I posted it. I edited it to mA, not volts. My strings are all within 50 mA, not volts. These are the HLG-240h-48B drivers they put out 5 Amps. so I am only pushing bout 4 amps for the blues and to 4.8 amps for the whites total
my strings are all pretty close to within 15 mA of each other.
one question I did have, If I have a set point of 700 mA, is it ok for some of them to be 30 above and some to be 30 below? this would be a range of 60+mA
here are the numbers I am running:
driver 1 blue: 723, 736, 683, 706, 718 (5 strings of 12)
driver 2 white: 746, 766, 745, 711, 757, 745 (6 strings of 11)
driver 3 blue: 655, 653, 695, 665, 645 (5 strings of 12)
driver 4 white: 741, 707, 730, 715, 698, 696 (6 strings of 11)
brassmonkyballs
BMB
reeferdale
New member
thanks BMB. I am going to package this up and will post some pics.
I would also like to thank kcress, wille, and all the others I have gleaned information from over the past year. I have actually been getting emails and PM from people about their builds anbd I havebeen doing my best to provide information that I feel is accurate. If I am not sure or don't know, I refer them to the experts here on RC.
Doing this for over 18 years, I have done just about every DIY project out there, I have learned so much in the past year that I can not even put a value on it. Thanks again
Just out of curiosity what would I need if I wanted to keep a RBTA in a 90g with LED's 9" off the water, mix of Royal Bule and White 2:1 ratio (XT-E Royal Blues and XP-G (CW/NW 1:1 ratio)) so 4RB:1CW:1:NW if that makes sense. Amp's I'm open to suggestions as I have each string on its own Meanwell 60-48P. All on linear channel.
lpsouth1978
New member
I have completed an experimental build using 50w 30000K LED's, but The drivers that came with them are garbage, 3 out of 4 arrived dead. My question is would an ELN-60-24 work for this LED or would it just fry the LED?
Emitted Color : Cool White
Color Temperature: 30000 ~ 35000K
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 15.0 ~ 18.0 Vdc
DC Forward Current (IF): 3200mA
Viewing Angle: 100 ~ 110 Degrees
Intensity Luminous (Iv): 2000LM ~ 3000LM
Emitted Color : Cool White
Color Temperature: 30000 ~ 35000K
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 15.0 ~ 18.0 Vdc
DC Forward Current (IF): 3200mA
Viewing Angle: 100 ~ 110 Degrees
Intensity Luminous (Iv): 2000LM ~ 3000LM
reeferdale
New member
others can chime in on this but the driver only puts out a max of 1.2A, you need 3.2A. Even if you ran these at half the current, it seems that you would only be able to run 1 LED per driver, if this is a 24V driver and you need at leat 15V per LED, you could not do 2 LEDs. I do not know anything about this type of LED, I am I missing something here?
lpsouth1978
New member
If I read the spec sheet, http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm correctly, the ELN-60-24 puts out a max of 2.5A. While this will not run the LED at full power, I thought that it would run the LED. My real concern is with the wattage. The driver is a 60 watt driver while the LED is 50 watts. Is there an easy way to ensure that I will not burn out the LED with this driver.
Also I am only planning on running 1 LED per driver so that would not be an issue.
lpsouth1978
New member
Or would I be better off running both 50W LED's using the PLC-100-36. Here is the daya sheet for that driver. http://www.meanwell.com/search/plc-100/default.htm
brassmonkyballs
BMB
The Meanwell will adjust it's output to the required voltage to drive it at that current. So it won't drive it at 60 watts but rather 18v*2.5a=45w.
lpsouth1978
New member
One more question. If I go with a 30V driver am I risking not being able to run both LED's. With a minimum voltage forward of 15V is there a chance that only one LED will work, or would I be fine. Would it be better to go with a 36V driver even though the amperage is lower?
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Depending on what those LEDs actually run at even 36 might not be a wise choice. 30v is definitely not going to work for 2 if them. By the way I do not think the ELNs are made in these voltages anyhow. Since you are now looking running multiples off a single driver you might want to look at the LPF-90D-42
lpsouth1978
New member
I was actually looking at the LPF-90D-30 or 36. My concern with the 42 is that it is only 2.5A instead of the 3A on the 30 and 2.65A on the 36.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Unless you know what the typical Vf is in operation....with actual experience....the best rule of thumb is to take it max case times number of LEDs Plus a couple volts....the driver needs a little room to operate. So in your case that's 18*2=36 + 2 = 38v. The 42v will self adjust itself down the 36v cannot run beyond it's max ability for long.
On the other hand if you know they tend to run around 17v when driven at 2.5A the the 36v will work. Other than that you néed to plan for worse case.
On the other hand if you know they tend to run around 17v when driven at 2.5A the the 36v will work. Other than that you néed to plan for worse case.
lpsouth1978
New member
I see. I will test the one that I have working tonight and see what it's VF is and make my decision based on that.
reeferdale
New member
lpsouth - sorry, I misread the datasheet. BMB has helped me with ? in the past, what he says is good info
