DIY LEDs - The write-up

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I'd feel more comfortable using a rubber grommet for passing a wire through the hole..

One of my tricks is ( as mentioned above ) to clean all the holes with a countersink. It is quick & easy with a screwgun.
THEN when you route the wire thru the hole, put just a drop or so of the liquid electrical tape in the hole.
You can use the same stuff everywhere a wire touches a sharp edge and it keeps it from moving.

Just dont get sloppy ;-)
Stu
 
The discussion was on if grounding was necessary or not for the fixture as a whole and not specifically the driver.

I mention this as it has been a discussion that has gone both ways.

However, no the green is not used for the driver.

Yes, apparently the MW's have dorked up grounds...
But any "correct" wiring job will have any metal properly grounded. There are no valid reasons not to and several good ones to do it. Crimp on a ring terminal and screw it to your fixture somewhere convenient.
 
What is the more better idea?

I got a bunch of small heatsinks I am going to stick on the channel opposite the LED's. I am only placing 14 LED's over a 44" length of 2x1 1/8 inch channel so once I started thinking about it I don't think I need no stinking fans, even without the additional sinks, but the option is still there. I will have a couple small fans blowing air into the canopy but nothing stupendous.
 
For the past 2 days I have been reding all info that everyone has posted. So many good LED projects here. I am trying to do my 1st DIY LED project. Here is why:

I have metal halide with no T5 supplement. I want to get the coral colors to Pop. I have a mixed reef with SPS, LPS, and soft.

The aquarium is 72x18x20 125 gallong tank. I am thinking of:

Getting 4 c channel alluminum 36 inches and place 12 Royal blue 3 watts each for a total of 36 watts for each 36 inch. That will be a total of 72 watt of actinic in the front of the metal halide and the same on the back.

I am considering the following:

Cree XP-R royal blue $7.49 e http://ledsupply.com/creexre-rb.php
Luxeon® Star III Royal Blue $6.99 e http://ledsupply.com/lxhl-lr3c.php
or chinese no brand 2.34 each delivered http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360242330471&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Also a brand called Prolite for $3 http://www.besthongkong.com/index.php?cPath=19_23

Heatsink:
Heatsink usa or
or
individual heat sink 20 for $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230450153258&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
0r with integrated fan 2 for $3.50 http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-5W-10W-High-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53e07ecc93

Also is that enough actinic for the tank? I have 2 250 watt MH and 2 150 Watt MH in the middle.

Driver will be the same as everyone is using.

Sorry to be all over the place here. It just too much information on the site.
 
Get the Cree XR-E RB. It's vastly more efficient than the other options you listed. Be advised though that LEDsupply prices aren't the best and they only sell the 15 bin, while the 16 bin is about 10% more efficient. You might be able to get the 16 bin from rapidled or another source.

As far as heatsinking, it'll depend on drive current, air movement, and other factors. You mentioned channel aluminum, but then you also mentioned several "actual" heatsinks. If you use beefy enough channel and have some air movement, you probably don't need anything else for a supplemental lighting scheme like this.

"Enough" actinic is highly subjective. That's likely going to be a noticeable amount but not a vast amount. Don't think of it in terms of these being "3w" LEDs, you need to think in terms of the actual LED's spec and the current you choose to drive it at.
 
The "bin" an LED is labeled with is a way for the manufacturer to indicate slight variations between the parts that fall under a given model name.

So, Cree produces an LED called "Royal Blue XR-E" but not all royal blue XR-E are identical - they vary from chip to chip. In order to allow customers to pick the individual parts that best meet their needs, Cree "bins" the LEDs by sorting them according to variances in important parameters.

For most of their LEDs, they label each batch with a brightness bin and a color bin. This indicates the relative brightness and color of a particular LED against all other LEDs with the same model name.

Here is the binning and labeling guide for the XR-E LEDs:

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E_B&L.pdf

If you look at page 4, it shows the brightness bins for the Royal Blue XR-E. Each bin is given a range of radiant flux (brightness) at a stated test current (350mA):

bin min max
12 250 300
13 300 350
14 350 425
15 425 500
16 500 600

So, you know that if you get brightness bin 15, your royal blue LEDs will produce between 425 and 500 radiant flux per watt consumed. If you get brightness bin 16, you'll get between 500 and 600 radiant flux per watt. In other words, if you choose bin 16 instead of bin 15, it's like extra light, totally free of charge because the LED is simply producing more output per watt it consumes.

The other way that Cree bins LEDs is by color. For Royal Blue, they bin according to dominant wavelength and specify a minimum and maximum wavelength as follows:

bin min max
D3 450 455
D4 455 460
D5 460 465

So, again, you have some choice. If you want a deeper, more purple glow, use the D3 bin. If you want something a little bluer, use the D5 bin. The differences will be small but you have the choice.

This concept is foreign to people who have a background with traditional reef lighting (MH and T5) because with those technologies, you typically don't get anywhere near this level of information and choice. But, for LEDs, at least the brightness bin is critically important to understand. The 15 bin LEDsupply sells isn't the end of the world, but if you take things to extreme, two LEDs given the same model number can have VASTLY different outputs. For instance, a bin 12 Royal Blue LED will put out exactly half the light as a bin 16, despite both being the same "product" in terms of model number.
 
That is great info. I really appreciate all your help. I called them and they stated that they have D4 and the bin is 14.

Thanks a lot.
 
So where is the difference between XPE RBs and XRE RBs? Did I miss something in the data sheets? I cannot determine which is better.

Thanks
Monty
 
Monty,

They're about the same in terms of efficacy. The main differences are that the XP-E has a smaller package size and a wider viewing angle (so if you're not using optics, it might be better/worse depending on the spread you want.)
 
For the past 2 days I have been reding all info that everyone has posted. So many good LED projects here. I am trying to do my 1st DIY LED project. Here is why:

I have metal halide with no T5 supplement. I want to get the coral colors to Pop. I have a mixed reef with SPS, LPS, and soft.

The aquarium is 72x18x20 125 gallong tank. I am thinking of:

Getting 4 c channel alluminum 36 inches and place 12 Royal blue 3 watts each for a total of 36 watts for each 36 inch. That will be a total of 72 watt of actinic in the front of the metal halide and the same on the back.

I am considering the following:

Cree XP-R royal blue $7.49 e http://ledsupply.com/creexre-rb.php
Luxeon® Star III Royal Blue $6.99 e http://ledsupply.com/lxhl-lr3c.php
or chinese no brand 2.34 each delivered http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360242330471&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Also a brand called Prolite for $3 http://www.besthongkong.com/index.php?cPath=19_23

Heatsink:
Heatsink usa or
or
individual heat sink 20 for $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230450153258&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
0r with integrated fan 2 for $3.50 http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-5W-10W-High-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53e07ecc93

Also is that enough actinic for the tank? I have 2 250 watt MH and 2 150 Watt MH in the middle.

Driver will be the same as everyone is using.

Sorry to be all over the place here. It just too much information on the site.

Check nanotuners. Better price on the RB XRE but I think you will need to contact them to see if it's the better Bin. Could be the reason they are less expensive :hmm2:
 
der wille zur macht,

I will do my build with 36 deg optic from Carclo, so I hope it will be a good choice and ok with the XPE. The only think I’m not sure about jet is, if the optics should be clear, rippled or frosted?

Monty
 
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I noticed that the clear ones have the best efficiency, but at pictures of the light pattern I have seen that the LED chips are projected with the clear optics. Can somebody confirm or denied this?
 
Yes, many of those optics do project the shape of the die. But, it strikes me that the fish don't care. :D Unless you're using a really small number of LEDs on a small tank, the patterns will all overlap enough that you won't be able to tell the difference.
 
I just put on 60 degree optics from Rapid LED last night and overall my PAR almost doubled from not having any optics at all. I was running both W and B at 500 mA and was getting 240 near the top and 160 at the bottom, but with the optics I had 400 at the top and 225 at the bottom so I was able to turn them down to 350mA for whites and kept the blues at 500mA. Light spill is much less now obviously and it looks brighter at lower current, so more electricity savings as well!
 
Wesley,

interesting to hear! How deep is your tank? I am currently developing a system for my 600 litre tank, which is about 70cm/31" deep and thought of using 40° optics to focus into the depth. Plus, as my tank is viewable from 3 sides, positioning of the lights and their optic is very important. Something most manufactures do not take into account. Not all of us pile our decoration from front to back!

While I'm writing about this project, I am planning to use 48 leds, 24/24 XP-G and XP-E rbs. This tank is about 136cm/55" x 60cm/23", does this sound like enough light for sps? Better too much as too little, one can always drop the current.
 
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