DIY LEDs - The write-up

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der_wille_zur_macht said:
I have no information on what to expect from the factory - and the fact that they don't explicitly state that it comes set at some certain value would make me assume it's set "wrong" and hence I'd assume that the setting at least needs to be verified.

The max possible current is likely higher than we want to run LEDs at (even the LEDs that can "stand" 1.3A like the XP-G will run cooler and more efficiently at lower currents, and live longer lives.)
Click to expand...

good input, I'll dork around with mine to see what it's set at.
 
crvz said:
So really 2 questions. First, am I in the right ballpark for color temperature? And 2, this is a 17" square frame that will be centered over a 36" wide tank... does anyone think I'll get inadequate coverage with this approach? I'm concerned about spotlighting, or only getting half the tank covered, so I'm looking for input.
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1) Yes, I think so - it'll be hard to say though because I think there's only been one or two people who have played with the "plain blues" besides me, and my plain blues were Luxeon Rebels, not Crees.

2) Again hard to say. When you get down to a small LED count over a large area for low-level lighting, things like color mixing and spotlighting become trickier and harder to predict. I'd guess you won't get totally even coverage with that array and you'll probably have some color separation, but it's really a personal preference thing whether or not it bothers you. One thing you can do to prevent this is to stick with LEDs that have a wide viewing angle, and use no optics.

mike_cmu04 said:
i just built a led rig for my nano and i have 12 led's on a 8.5"x12" heatsink and wondered if fans were necessary?
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Run it and see. It'll depend on the specs of the heatsink, what it's enclosed in, ambient temps, LED current, etc. It's kinda hard to predict, especially since there isn't a very clear criteria to determine what constitutes "needing" a fan.
 
Got my 1/2 of my blues in the mail today, still waiting on drivers, and the rest of my blues from a different group buy. I have all my whites from DX now, and need to customize the heatsinks if I can find someone reasonable with a mill...

I couldn't resist trying one of the blues and a 40° lens... WOW! Is all I have to say. The spread is more than I thought it would be and in a 10" circle at the bottom of the tank 1 LED significantly out showed my PC actinics with some good "pop"! It made very disinct shadows, and killer ripples! With luck the Meanwells will be here next week and I can get these things assembled and up to usable power. I'm really interested now to know just what the practical lower current is... Can't wait to see what the Kill-A-Watt says!

I wasn't going to dim these now, but I'm waiting for confirmation of what I was told in another forum cancerning the Apex. Apparently all you need is the control module and you can set it up through a computer without the display head. That's the way I run my ACIII now, so if I can simply replace the ACIII with the Apex control module I may have auto dimming sooner than I intended... Anyone here know much about this?

Tim
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
I have no information on what to expect from the factory - and the fact that they don't explicitly state that it comes set at some certain value would make me assume it's set "wrong" and hence I'd assume that the setting at least needs to be verified.

The max possible current is likely higher than we want to run LEDs at (even the LEDs that can "stand" 1.3A like the XP-G will run cooler and more efficiently at lower currents, and live longer lives.)
Click to expand...

They seem to be set pretty high. One of my Meanwells has a broken trim pot for current. I thought I could use it safely to run a string of 13 XP-Gs since they can take 1.5 A and the Meanwells (so I read) max current is only 1.3-1.4 A. When I set the thing up and and slowly raised my dimming voltage, I measured 1.5 A at about 6 volts!!!! I was of course not going to go any higher to find out where the celing was. At 10 V to the dimmer, the driver surely would fry the XP-Gs!

You really need to afjust the current down.
 
rickb said:
Thanks for the info guys, I will check it.
Click to expand...


Note: When putting your meter in series with your string do all connections WITH THE POWER OFF.

You must have a meter that measures DC current and the leads must be plugged in to the correct holes on the meter - NO, the other holes!

Your meter must be able to measure at least an amp. A 200mA current measurement mode will not suffice.

Generally the MWs will be adjusted at the factory to put out the MAXIMUM CURRENT. 1.3A for a 60-48
 
hllywd said:
I wasn't going to dim these now, but I'm waiting for confirmation of what I was told in another forum cancerning the Apex. Apparently all you need is the control module and you can set it up through a computer without the display head. That's the way I run my ACIII now, so if I can simply replace the ACIII with the Apex control module I may have auto dimming sooner than I intended... Anyone here know much about this?

Tim
Click to expand...

Well... The Apex control module will work, and you can program the ramping function through the PC alone... however, there are some important features, like enabling and calibrating probes you need the Display Head for. Essentially it would be a $224 fancy dimmer with some other limited functionality as a stand alone. Some info if anybody is interested; http://reeftech.webs.com/Apex New User Guide V11.pdf
Tim
 
Maybe it's because I'm a opinionated diehard DIY'er but if you're ONLY interested in being able to program LEDs to fade on and off, that strikes me as a waste of $224 considering you can whip something together yourself for a fraction of the cost!
 
I'm not a GENIUS like you though!!!:fun2: Seriously I could probably figure it out with your (and others here) lead, it's been almost 30 years since I went to the Ohio Institute of Technology for the stuff, then became a fireman... At least the terminology isn't complete Greek when I read those threads! I can still read the schematics!

I'd like to upgrade from my ACIII, just thought this might be a short cut, but alas no free rides:sad2:

I'm just glad I'm getting close to putting this together, the RB on two triple AAs is impressive even at that power!

Tim
 
CREE Failures?

CREE Failures?

I just decided to test my Q5 LED's that I got in last month and found a huge failure rate and wondered if I might be missing something.

I had ordered 24 RB and 24 white. 20 of the white came attached together on a 5 x 4 setup. All of the RB and the 4 whites that were not attached to each other test fine when connected to 2 AA batteries. None of the other light up. I tried to reverse olarity just in case.

I had ordered from ETG in case anyone has had similar issues...

Shawn
 
Are you SURE the LEDs are failed? Can you describe your test practice in exact detail or provide photos? Any chance they were damaged?

I've never heard of anyone getting ANY DOAs from any of the reputable vendors. . .
 
akindbro4u said:
what carclo optics should I use for xpg's running them 2' above a 18" tank. Maybe 3'. I was looking at the medium ripple, but not sure if they are tight enough. All LEDs will be spaces 2.0" apart.
Click to expand...

anyone care to lend there insight?
it's 18" deep sorry for the incomplete info.
 
Well, they are not failed - they accidentally reversed teh polarity on the boards and for some reason when I initially tried to reverse to test, it did not connect completely.

Working now, but I just have to remember to "mis-wire" this set, lol...
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
My tank is 24" deep, LEDs will be about 20" up, and I'm planning on using the "frosted wide" optic about halfway down this page, by Carlco, for the 10mm MCPCBs:

http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Optics+for+XP-C/E/G

Planning on that optic mainly because there seems to be a lack of other suitable options.
Click to expand...

the ripple mediums are 19.5deg, and the frosted wide are 31.5deg on ledsupply is that correct. I can't find a proper data sheet for the optics.
 
akindbro4u said:
the ripple mediums are 19.5deg, and the frosted wide are 31.5deg on ledsupply is that correct. I can't find a proper data sheet for the optics.
Click to expand...

I'd have to look it up again to be sure, but I know that the carlco optics seem to be listed with different angles everywhere you look. Carlco has a datasheet on their webpage but it's totally buried. I posted a link several pages back so it might be worth digging up.
 
Yay!! i just got my LEDs today woo! so before i go soldering and wiring stuff i just wanted to make sure this is right. dont want to electrocute/burn/set on fire/blow up/melt/destroy anything

LEDwiringlayout.jpg


thank you yupgopotty (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1672708) for the detailed instructions.

i am completely electrically incompetent so just makin sure :)
 
As you're incompetent :) I would only suggest that on that far right LED you stick with the same wiring pattern as the rest even if you could do the way you show it. Those special little short cuts - are the cuts that go deepest.
 
Can someone reccomend a good PAR meter ? I know Grim has been recommending one for a while. Just can't find the post...

Thanks
 
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