DIY LEDs - The write-up
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100%hydrophylic
New member
This better?
what do i do with the extra green wire on the power cord? just leave it?
also which arrangement would give me the best color blending? its on two heatsinks so i tried to keep it so that there are 3 on each.
what do i do with the extra green wire on the power cord? just leave it?
also which arrangement would give me the best color blending? its on two heatsinks so i tried to keep it so that there are 3 on each.
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sammy113
New member
Do a search for Orbitec LED patent. You'll find link to glassbox design or ************ with some info
Santoki
Shimmer Addict
Hydrophylic,
What is the spacing between emitters?
The further apart they are, the more arrangement would matter for color mixing.
Personally, if I had to choose amongst the options you provided, I would go with option #6.
If they are closely spaced, option #5 would be most symmetrical...
Another option, since you are using the Meanwell, would be to up your LED count by two, since you are using two separate heatsinks. That would allow you to put 4 per heatsink, allowing for more arrangement flexibility.
-R
What is the spacing between emitters?
The further apart they are, the more arrangement would matter for color mixing.
Personally, if I had to choose amongst the options you provided, I would go with option #6.
If they are closely spaced, option #5 would be most symmetrical...
Another option, since you are using the Meanwell, would be to up your LED count by two, since you are using two separate heatsinks. That would allow you to put 4 per heatsink, allowing for more arrangement flexibility.
-R
sammy113
New member
I have a question. How many Meanwells ELN60-48P or D can I wire in parallel in just one power cord? Lets say I have 4 MW for whites and 4 for blues. Can I put all 4 whites in one power cord and the other 4 in another one? Or too much for just one cable? The cable I have is the one provided by rapidled and has a little sticker that says "10A 125V"
MW's input is 1.4A so that's a total of 4.8A for each bank?
I'm worried to burn something but I don't want a cables mess and finish with more than 4 or 5 power cords
MW's input is 1.4A so that's a total of 4.8A for each bank?
I'm worried to burn something but I don't want a cables mess and finish with more than 4 or 5 power cords
100%hydrophylic
New member
Santoki, its just a 3 gallon tank so im kinda afraid of melting things lol. i considered getting two more lights but idk if its worth spending $20 more...
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Depends on the rating of the cord and plug you use so check them to be sure. And of course that you're not overloading the circuit that feeds the outlet you're plugging it in to. But for all intents and purposes, 4.8A is pretty reasonable; you shouldn't have a problem. For reference, a common 16 gauge extension cord is usually rated 10A or 13A depending on length.
This better?
Better. Don't know if you're using optics, but the optic holders I have might not have fit well on that far right LED the way you had it the first time.
Anemonebuff
New member
I found PAR readings for the 30 watt Maxspect LEDs and they are insane!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1817995&page=9
This makes me feel better about my recent purchase.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1817995&page=9
This makes me feel better about my recent purchase.
100%hydrophylic
New member
well i went to the giant electronic store the size of like two super walmarts and i had trouble deciding what solder to choose from out of the hundred they had.
it says Sn60/Pb40 so tin and lead. is this good solder? i couldnt remember if lead was good or not for the LEDs. lol i figured since its so bad for my health it should be good for something
it says Sn60/Pb40 so tin and lead. is this good solder? i couldnt remember if lead was good or not for the LEDs. lol i figured since its so bad for my health it should be good for something
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
60/40 is one of the more common leaded solders and it will be fine (assuming it has a resin core, not an acid core - intended for plumbing.) The only other real variable is diameter which is somewhat a matter of personal taste IME.
Leaded solder doesn't pose a heath risk unless you eat it or scrub it into your skin on a daily basis. Just wash your hands when you're done and don't worry about it.
Lead-free solder is a little harder to use and requires higher temps, so it's not really worthwhile for the casual hobbyist IMHO.
Leaded solder doesn't pose a heath risk unless you eat it or scrub it into your skin on a daily basis. Just wash your hands when you're done and don't worry about it.
Lead-free solder is a little harder to use and requires higher temps, so it's not really worthwhile for the casual hobbyist IMHO.
100%hydrophylic
New member
its 22 guage (same as my wire) and it doesnt really say what type of core, but it was in an electronics store so im pretty sure its resin core. thats what alot of the other labels said.
it says "No Clean" on it. what does that mean?
oh! your the electronic guru arent you der_wille_zur_macht? my wiring diagrams look fine to you?
it says "No Clean" on it. what does that mean?
oh! your the electronic guru arent you der_wille_zur_macht? my wiring diagrams look fine to you?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
That means it has a "No Clean" rosin core. It'll be fine.
Hardly! I stand on the shoulders of giants.
Yes, totally fine.
kcress
New member
Yes!
Crimp ring terminals on them and screw them to the heatsink. Do the same with the power cord's ground wire. The official way requires they all be under the same screw but you will get the same effect if they are all hooked the same chunk of metal.
How is 4 x 1.4A = 4.8A?
Furthermore that model MW can draw only 1.2A maximum. 8 x 1.2A = 9.6A
Which fits down your cord.
However:
I'd use a single "nice" 14AWG cord for all of them. Ditch the cord they provided and go to your local box store. Go to the extension cords and find an appropriate length one that has three wires. Buy it and cut off the receptacle end. For some reason extension cords are always way cheaper than pig-tails. (Pig-tails are pre-made cords with just the male end.)
Having multiple cords going to one appliance,(your fixture), is really amateur and I believe against code.
It means exactly that - no clean. If you try to clean it you have a disaster. It also means that it will be VERY poor on oxidized surfaces. If your stars or wire are old or have finger prints on the soldering surfaces you will have problems. It also means that as you solder you will get more smoke and lots of microscopic splattering everywhere. For most stuff the best solder is the old "44" rosin core. Kester is the big name in solder. If you have new clean stuff you can use your no-clean. I would make a small little paper hat that I would drop over the LED's lens so the spatter doesn't contaminate the lens.
sammy113
New member
Sorry I was supposed to say 1.2A each driver so a total of 4.8A for one power cord.
These power cord is rated for 10A and looks to me like 18AWG
100%hydrophylic
New member
what? lol theres only 3 cables on my cord. 2 get connected to the Driver and the green one does what? i need to figure a way to connect it to my heatsink? what does that do?
here is what i see on the powercord
sorry to be such a pain lol, told ya i was electronically incompetent.
Dannyrotorpilot
New member
I wish I had not seen them Maxspect lights. Now I am second guessing even though to buy 3 170w units and have them shipped its about $2250 ~ $2500. Ouch! Their units are all 17" x 7" x 1.7" so I think I will stay with my original plan to build 3 of the 8" x 16" x 1.5" and use very wide optics on the outer rows. They dont use any optics either. Also, anyone know if its worth incorporating those 30W LED's? How would they be wired in?
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
The 30w LEDs they're using put out a lot of light in the absolute sense, but they ARE consuming 30w! They're just nowhere near the efficiency levels you can reach with XP-Gs or even XR-Es and you're getting all your white light from a small point - which is probably far from ideal for most people. I really wish they hadn't used those 30w LEDs because now I get several PMs a day asking if people should be using them in their DIY fixtures. As far as I'm concerned, the answer is no, for most cases anyways.
Plus, for any reasonable measure (cost/watt, cost/LED, cost/lumen) those fixtures are more expensive than even the most expensive DIY options. They put out nice PAR numbers, but many DIY fixtures blow them away in that respect if you compare apples to apples.
Plus, they're locking you in to THEIR ideas about optics, positioning, etc - vs a DIY fixture which lets you pick what's best for you.
Plus, for any reasonable measure (cost/watt, cost/LED, cost/lumen) those fixtures are more expensive than even the most expensive DIY options. They put out nice PAR numbers, but many DIY fixtures blow them away in that respect if you compare apples to apples.
Plus, they're locking you in to THEIR ideas about optics, positioning, etc - vs a DIY fixture which lets you pick what's best for you.
100%hydrophylic
New member
GGGRRRRRRR! my stupid solder wont stick to the stupid stars. gr. what you guys think im doing wrong???
ugh i feel like throwing this crap all away. i get the little ball of solder on the star, then when i try and put the wire on it the ball falls off and leaves a huge black spot on the star.
ugh i feel like throwing this crap all away. i get the little ball of solder on the star, then when i try and put the wire on it the ball falls off and leaves a huge black spot on the star.
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bourbeaue
New member
I read up on the PFO law suite. So how come people like Maxspect and all the others are still able to sell their products in the USA ?
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