DIY LEDs - The write-up

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I've spent the last 2 weeks reading through this thread and similar LED threads. I ended up buying the constant current 48 premium led kit from rapidled. The thing that I'm a little confused on is it's recommended to test the led's so you don't fry them when you hook them up to the power supply. Would I need to be worried about frying my leds if I'm just going to hook 12 of the XR-E leds in a series to one meanwell?
 
sammy113 said:
You could probably get as much light as that 250w MH with fewer LEDs than 48. Thats way too much for a 29g Tank

You could hit those same PAR leves or even more with just 24 LEDs and 40~60 degree lenses. Gotta think of coverage too. Depending on the tank dimensions, you may want to add a few more or go with more spacing between them but be careful with more spacing and tighter lenses.
Click to expand...

Agreed - a typical 250w MH is probably more closely equivalent to 24 or so LEDs. Of course, optics, drive current, spacing, etc. all play a role. On a 29g tank I'd probably shoot for mid 30's.

trentdingo said:
Is an accessory required for a dimmable driver such as this: http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-41/Mean-Well-ELN-dsh-60-dsh-48D-dimmable/Detail
or is the ability to adjust the led's built into the driver itself?
Also, what is the difference between the 48D and the 48P above
Click to expand...

P is PWM dimmable. D is analog dimmable. If you don't know, get the D version.

And, yes, you do need to provide a signal, or else the drivers won't turn on.
 
tahiriqbal said:
I would diagree with above comments!!!
Click to expand...

It strikes me as somewhat a matter of personal preference. I like drilling/screwing (tapping not required if you use the right screws). It's more secure and arguably the "best" from a thermal perspective because you can use a minimal amount of compound and get really high clamping pressure. BUT, it IS a lot of work, especially if you don't have a drill press.

okkiedokki said:
I've spent the last 2 weeks reading through this thread and similar LED threads. I ended up buying the constant current 48 premium led kit from rapidled. The thing that I'm a little confused on is it's recommended to test the led's so you don't fry them when you hook them up to the power supply. Would I need to be worried about frying my leds if I'm just going to hook 12 of the XR-E leds in a series to one meanwell?
Click to expand...

Can you link to the kit you bought? Or tell us which driver came with it? "Testing" and "setup" will vary depending on the driver you have. For instance, if it's an LPC driver, you can just wire things and go. If it's an ELN driver, then you need to make sure the internal current limit pot is set correctly. And so on.
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
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.
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Can you link to the kit you bought? Or tell us which driver came with it? "Testing" and "setup" will vary depending on the driver you have. For instance, if it's an LPC driver, you can just wire things and go. If it's an ELN driver, then you need to make sure the internal current limit pot is set correctly. And so on.
Click to expand...

It is the LPC driver: http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-25/48-Premium-LED-Do-dsh-It-dsh-Yourself/Detail

The way I figured with this setup it's very similar to wiring a new circuit in a house. Just wire the leds in a series and hook it up to the driver and I'm done.
 
Hello,

I have 2 last questions regarding the Royal blue XP-E:

1 - Should I use the D3 , D4 or D5 for the dominant wavelength range?
2 - I can only buy the GROUP=14 where the minimum radiant flux = 350. Is there a lot of difference between the group 14 and 15?

I am planning to have 2:1 RB/CW ratio. The CW LEDs are XPG / BIN=0D / Intensity = R4.

I would like to have multiple comments before placing my order tomorrow.
 
Chris,

Not sure where you are anodizing, but make sure you scrap it off it you are mounting the LED there. It makes a rotten for rotten heat transfer.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
Chris,

Not sure where you are anodizing, but make sure you scrap it off it you are mounting the LED there. It makes a rotten for rotten heat transfer.
Click to expand...

Could you elaborate a little on this? Many high performance computer and electronic heatsinks are anodized. Any info I've seen on anodizing suggests colors like black may actually enhance heat transfer to air at least...

Tim
 
I am no expert and I am repeating what I think I read. So if someone can quote a definitive source I will happily be corrected. There are two transfers taking place.

The first is from the metal clad board to the heat sink. This is better if it is bare aluminum so sand off the anodized surface. I am pretty sure on this fact.

The next transfer is from the sink to the air. I read somewhere that there is a 3% increase in efficiency if the heat sink is dark. I did a quick search and get mixed results if the dark helps trying to find a quote. However, having said that I believe the same article said that anodizing acts as a insulator. To the the 3% you need a a finish like paint.

I will do some more searching and I find a better answer will post.
 
Searching the internet and not knowing the sites to trust on this subject I can not find an answer. However a similar post was made in taqpol's thread.

jepjep13
Does anyone know if there is any problem using a heatsink that is anodized black?

der_wille_zur_macht - never hear of him so I don't know if we can trust him :)
You'll loose a little bit of efficiency in the thermal transfer from LED MCPCB to the heatsink, but gain a bit in transfer from the heatsink to the air. It's probably not a significant difference considering the "standard practice" for these LED builds tends to err on the side of overkill from a thermal management perspective.
 
Hi Folks,

I can give some more detail on the heatsink subject. By fortune one big German heatsink manufacture (www.fischerelektronik.de) has a branch manufactory in my town. So the other day I went by there and spent some time to bother them with my noob questions.

They told me that the anodized surface helps by 10 "“ 15% with heat transfer.

Further there is a big difference if the heatsink is horizontal or vertical, regarding to the fins direction. If it's horizontal it has les efficiency by 15-20%. (No fan, just convection)

And, this is important, the anodized aluminum is good heat conductive (30Wm/K) and don't need to be scraped off!! It is an electric insulator, so maybe people are mixing this.
 
Last edited:
ti-christ said:
Hello,

I have 2 last questions regarding the Royal blue XP-E:

1 - Should I use the D3 , D4 or D5 for the dominant wavelength range?
2 - I can only buy the GROUP=14 where the minimum radiant flux = 350. Is there a lot of difference between the group 14 and 15?

I am planning to have 2:1 RB/CW ratio. The CW LEDs are XPG / BIN=0D / Intensity = R4.

I would like to have multiple comments before placing my order tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Please, if anybody has comment on that I will appreciate because I want to place my order tomorrow. But I am not sure which one to buy!?!
 
I got some new optics in from etg tech today.

They sent 25, 40, & 60 degree optics.

I havent fired one up yet because I only have two XPGs and few ways to drive only one short of the 2 batteries trick ;-)

Here's a pic ( dont give me stuff about my flux residue. I'll learn to start cleaning it off someday ;-)

etg_XP_optics.jpg


They are small and dont seem to interfere with my screw method. I plan to use them on my 6X stars so I have to do the layout.

Stu
 
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