DIY LEDs - The write-up

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popper,

Maybe I can't see it where is the fourth (white ?) wire on the MeanWell used for dimming? It should go to the ground of the wall wart, if I am reading the data sheet correctly.

I few suggestions from what I am reading. Go get some shrink tubing and get rid of the tape. Also it looks like you are running 2 strings in parallel. If so can the max voltage damage one string? Have you considered fuses or resistors?

What are/where those heat sinks?
 
Also it looks like you are running 2 strings in parallel. If so can the max voltage damage one string? Have you considered fuses or resistors?
The 60-48 can output a total of 1.3a which is within spec for the XPG and I believe the XPE too for a single string.
 
popper
Maybe it is just the picture, but the white should not be hooked up to the potentiometer.
It looks like your heat sink is not flat, so your star is not making 100% contact. You want as much contact area as possible.
 
I missed the white wire. I looked, but until you said under the blue...

XP-E maximum is 1000 ma (or lower for redder ones). XR-E also max out at 1000 ma. You have a good memory if you can remember what everyone has. I think the only LED capable of greater than 1000ma right now is the XP-G.
 
TheFishMan65- this would probably be some good information to add to your summary post:

In the LED thread I detailed proper soldering technique. Here's it is lifted in its entirety:

Soldering... It's a bit of an art form. It you're an expert you could probably solder the stars with anything but a torch. But if you aren't accomplished a 'just right' soldering iron is required. Something around 25 to 40watts. The biggest problem would be one too small as then you damage what you are soldering by sitting there with the heat on, waiting, and waiting for the solder temperature to be reached. Meanwhile the device is being roasted.

You need "rosin core solder." Make absolutely sure it's not 'ACID' core solder. Acid core is solder for soldering radiators and copper pipe. The acid remains and will dissolve your electronics in short order. No-core or plain solder is also very bad as there is no cleaning action which is vital to an acceptable solder joint.

You want lead solder too - NOT "lead free".

Let your iron heat up fully. Then wet it with your rosin core solder until it's blobbed up in a wad. This lets the rosin act on the tip to clean it. Wipe this blob off on a moist sponge,(not sopping wet, just barely damp). If you have no sponge use a damp folded up paper towel.

Wipe with a very fast twirling dragging motion as you are trying to clear all the solder off the tip before you cool the tip to the point that the solder freezes again.

Apply a weee bit of solder to the tip and then immediately apply the tip to the star's pad. As soon as you apply the tip to the pad take your solder and touch it to the exact point where the tip meets the pad. You are trying to maximize heat transfer from the tip to the pad. You do this by filling all the voids with a molten metal thermal bridge. Pause for, perhaps, one or two seconds move the solder to a distant place on the pad and hold it there. When the pad heats up enough to melt the solder feed the solder in at a good clip until the pad has a large mound of solder on it.

Do the same thing to your wire if it is un-tinned. (actually do this before you do the pad!) Better(superior) would be to use only pre-tinned wire in the first place.

Now once you have your mound of solder on the star pad bring over your wire, hold it on the Star's pad. Place the tip on top of the wire. You want to reheat the pad thru the wire. When the wire sinks into the blob hold the position and watch the blob. You want the entire blob to melt again. The instant the blob has remelted remove the tip while holding the wire EXACTLY where it is. No wiggling allowed! Coffee shakes need not apply. Once the solder has refrozen move on to the next connection.

CJ
 
I missed the white wire. I looked, but until you said under the blue...

He has one lead (line) from the power supply connected to the first terminal on the potentiometer. The second terminal is connected to the blue wire from the Mean Well. The third terminal is connected to both the second lead (ground) from the power supply and the white wire from the Mean Well.

CJ
 
thanks CJO consider it added. If it goes to 3 posts it is your fault:beer:

Once he said where to look I found it. What is funny is hat I knew it had to come out of that bundle from the Meanwell and I still could not find it.:hmm4:
 
Popper-

Thanks for providing pictures, I'm sure people will find it helpful. Are those stars fully contacting the heatsinks though? From the picture, it looks like they are riding on little fins or indentations or something. If that's the case, you're probably not getting good heat transfer.
 
About the selection of white LEDs. I made this post a few pages back and it kinda got buried under FishMan's excellent summary post. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I read the article about AI coming out with the new tri-color pucks for their fixtures mixing royal blue, blue and white LED's. Made a ton of sense. But I saw that they are using the warm white XP-G as opposed to the CW everyone here uses. Looking at the XP spectral plots what differentiates the three whites is the amount of relative 'lift' there is in the spectrum from about 500nm to 600nm. They all share the peak at around 450nm which is where our blues/rb's have their peak. Most MH and even T5's have 'bumps' in the 500-650nm neighborhood. If we're trying to get the same kind of spectra shouldn't we be using the warm white or at least a mix of whites to give us the same lifts in the 500nm+ part of the spectrum?
 
Alright guys, here is a picture of the dimmer, cutter makes them and I took the screenshot from their datasheet which Mark from cutter sent me (I didn't find it anywhere on their site)
dimmer.jpg



According to this it states that the white is NC which I took it as not connected. THe lights dim properly in the sense that they go to extreme brightness when the potentiometer is turned all the way up and they dim when its turned all the way down. Thanks for the tip about gluing the stars, the picture I took was one from before I started testing the leds so the leds are already glued on for good thermal transfer.
 
jtma,

I remember your post, but don't really know. IIRC Soundwave theorized that the corals needed the ddep blues (near UV) since that is what they see in the ocean. The white were to make it more pleasant to the eye and/or match the color of existing bulbs (as seen from the eye). Really what you want to match is the spectrum at depth X in the ocean, but our animal are taken from all depths so we try and guess at the best spectrum. IMHO
 
Jay1982,

You are trying to control the LED drive lines using the PWM circuit.

This "Might" work, but it is not the intended implementation for the ELN-60-48P model.

The PWM signal is just a "control signal" for the D-model it is supposed to connect to the Dim+ & Dim- lines..... where did you hook those?

You are actually using the PWM to regulate the current.

Since the Meanwell is a constant current device, every time your PWM driver turns off the meanwell voltage will spike.


Also - if you hooked up the Dim line AND the LED+ to those pins on the PWM that say +, then you should have damaged the Meanwell because you applied >30 volts to the Dim+ pin.

Stu
 
I haven't been following this thread for a while and don't know if others have had the same experience as me but, I would like to share my experience so far with the LED lighting. I built a DIY fixture that had 48 CREE whites and 48 CREE blues, used the MeanWell driver, and had very beautiful results to look at. I started off at about 15% power and slowly ramped it up over the course of a few weeks. End Result: Nothing grew, LPS started receding, SPS bleached out. So I broke down and threw a couple 14k 250 watt MH on the tank, and everything is that didn't get pulled out is starting to make a comeback. I had a frogspawn that had receeded nearly 90% that has made a near recovery. I am not totally giving up on the LEDs yet. I am going to add back some blues. I never did get to check a PAR level, but I can tell you this, my tank didn't like it.
 
Jay1982,

You are trying to control the LED drive lines using the PWM circuit.

This "Might" work, but it is not the intended implementation for the ELN-60-48P model.

The PWM signal is just a "control signal" for the D-model it is supposed to connect to the Dim+ & Dim- lines..... where did you hook those?

You are actually using the PWM to regulate the current.

Since the Meanwell is a constant current device, every time your PWM driver turns off the meanwell voltage will spike.


Also - if you hooked up the Dim line AND the LED+ to those pins on the PWM that say +, then you should have damaged the Meanwell because you applied >30 volts to the Dim+ pin.

Stu

Stu, are you saying that these aren't made for the P type meanwells? Because I asked Mark at cutter and he told me that they are specifically made for meanwells. If that is the case I don't know why he would have told me that....I'm pretty upset now if that is the case
 
Andy,

Would like to hear more. I have heard of bleaching, but everything I read seemed to fix that by turning them down. I wonder if 15% was too low and it did not increase fast enough. I think you are on the right track. Get a par reading of MH, then try and match it with the LEDs and see how the coral behave. Good Luck
 
Jay1982,

The PWM circuit will probably still work ( if you havent damaged the Meanwell ).

You need to:
1 - hook the meanwell LED+ & LED- directly to the LED string.
2 - hook +10 volts to the IN side of the PWM.
3 - hook the output of the PWM circuit to the DIM+ & DIM- control lines of the meanwell.

Try again.

Stu
 
Jay,

Can you point us to the data sheet for the PWM board? Or can you take it out temporarily and just have the meanwell drive the LEDs.? I think it is adding to the confusion and should not affect current in the end.
 
The pdf file is too large to upload, but the only other thing on the datasheet is this: (took a screenshot)

pdfscree.jpg


Since it is providing some confusion I'll take it out and swap it with a 9v battery for testing purposes only. For testing I would imagine I just put the test probes in line between the wire from the meanwell to the wires that continue to my LEDs?
 
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