TheFishMan65
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Yes, meter in series for current.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
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TheFishMan65
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The HLG(?) series shows a driver after the HLG module. I wonder if this it. If it is I wonder if it is compatible. The HLG can use 0-10 volts, a resistor , or PWM (not sure of the range) for dimming. The HLG drives multiple string and I wonder if this will dim one string. That is why I was wondering about a data sheet. Jay does the datasheet say it will work with your driver?
TheFishMan65
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I have heard good and bad about cutter - I am still holding on a decision. I searched for MW PWM Dimmer no luck. Got a part number? Anything else to go on?
Jay1982
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Unfortuantely there isn't any other marking on this besides a URL at the bottom of the dimmer "www.tecy.com.au" but when I go to the site the page doesn't open, a google search of the URL has "coming soon" listed under the URL.
Here is the PDF file http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=501b26e55f98f25b46d57f46dd67f0f1
Here is the PDF file http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=501b26e55f98f25b46d57f46dd67f0f1
blasterman789
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Sorry guys, but I have to throw my $.02 into all of this.
First, I rarely use Cree for fixed lighting projects, and I build some pretty big stuff. While Cree leads the efficacy envelope, they are an expensive solution. Bridgelux, Satistronics, etc., are all viable options that get you there a lot cheaper. I've got some 10watt 440nm's coming that a manufacturer is allowing me to test, but they aren't Cree so you guys will be losing out. So sorry.....
Next, who died and declared that we have to use a 50/50 mix of cool white and RB? Are we in North Korea or something and have to do what one guy tells us? Seriously.....try a neutral white flanked with two RB's sometime. Wow....notice you can actually see the color purple and your coraline algae doesn't look like car bondo anymore? That's cuz neutral whites aren't dominated by cyan-green and actually have some broad spectrum that halides have. Don't believe me? Well then...turn off that little part of your brain that causes fan-boy-itis and actually try it. Wow! Some of those colors coming back!
Seriously...one reason some of you aren't getting growth with SPS is because you're blasting your corals with white light dominated by green-cyan, which turns off some growth triggers.
Last, why are DIY LED threads dominated 90% with discussions about dimming circuits and such? Why is it our halide and T5 based tanks didn't have dimmers, but we need them for LED?
First, I rarely use Cree for fixed lighting projects, and I build some pretty big stuff. While Cree leads the efficacy envelope, they are an expensive solution. Bridgelux, Satistronics, etc., are all viable options that get you there a lot cheaper. I've got some 10watt 440nm's coming that a manufacturer is allowing me to test, but they aren't Cree so you guys will be losing out. So sorry.....
Next, who died and declared that we have to use a 50/50 mix of cool white and RB? Are we in North Korea or something and have to do what one guy tells us? Seriously.....try a neutral white flanked with two RB's sometime. Wow....notice you can actually see the color purple and your coraline algae doesn't look like car bondo anymore? That's cuz neutral whites aren't dominated by cyan-green and actually have some broad spectrum that halides have. Don't believe me? Well then...turn off that little part of your brain that causes fan-boy-itis and actually try it. Wow! Some of those colors coming back!
Seriously...one reason some of you aren't getting growth with SPS is because you're blasting your corals with white light dominated by green-cyan, which turns off some growth triggers.
Last, why are DIY LED threads dominated 90% with discussions about dimming circuits and such? Why is it our halide and T5 based tanks didn't have dimmers, but we need them for LED?
Jay1982
New member
haha, Stu, I think I have it pretty down pat (I think) in your diagram where you have the break in the line, is that where your leds are?) , I'm searching my house for an extra 9V battery so I can test it out. Here is how I have it connected before I read your post:
When I find that 9V battery I'll put it where the black and white wires are. The picture doesn't show the rest of the wiring...ugh. So basically its like this Driver>>Red wire connected with the meter probe>>current runs through the meter where the other probe is connected to the wire that leads to the leds, the current goes through the leds back out to the wire that leads back to the meanwell where I have it taped together. Thus forming a series.
Is this good?
Also, about the PWM signal that is causing a stir. My lights do fire up when using it, is the issue here that it could fry my LEDs over time?
When I find that 9V battery I'll put it where the black and white wires are. The picture doesn't show the rest of the wiring...ugh. So basically its like this Driver>>Red wire connected with the meter probe>>current runs through the meter where the other probe is connected to the wire that leads to the leds, the current goes through the leds back out to the wire that leads back to the meanwell where I have it taped together. Thus forming a series.
Is this good?
Also, about the PWM signal that is causing a stir. My lights do fire up when using it, is the issue here that it could fry my LEDs over time?
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akindbro4u
New member
The reason most of us a using cree is just for the efficiency factor. If I wanted to save money on the initial investment I would have gone t5. It is a long term efficiency issue for me. While 10watt leds are an option, you also have to consider thermal management. 10 watt leds running at the same current we are using would produce tremendous heat, that we would have to manage.
We stopped using the 50/50 ration, when we switched to the xp series from cree. And most of us are mixing cool, with warm white on a regular basis.
Green/cyan does not "turn off" growth triggers per say. It only reduces the efficiency of the absorption of the red spectrum. Also with proper bin selection we can reduce if not eliminate these effects. hence the choice of cool white shifted farther into the blue spectrum.
because we can. If dimming was available to this degree with halides, we would have beat that horse to death too.
Do you have pics of your rig, I would love to see what you came up with.
akindbro4u
New member
trying not to side track the thread too much with a silly argument with someone who obviously has not read the thread.
TheFishMan65
New member
I have to do it - just becuase of his tone - sorry
Seems like he has tried quite a bit of CREE for someone that doesn't use them.
Stu,
Where are you getting your information. I am not diesagreeing, but how do you know he needs a separate 10 volt supply? For $160 dollars this board must be more just a PWM. Or maybe I found the wrong one at cutter.
Seems like he has tried quite a bit of CREE for someone that doesn't use them.
Stu,
Where are you getting your information. I am not diesagreeing, but how do you know he needs a separate 10 volt supply? For $160 dollars this board must be more just a PWM. Or maybe I found the wrong one at cutter.
akindbro4u
New member
did you intend to say are not coning on?
if so check the battery. Are you sure it's good?
Then I would check youre wiring. give us some pics, and we will help.
Or you could go to rat shack, and get the part to build a proper pwm generator on the cheap.
kcress
New member
Jay, youre killing me ;-)
Stu
Nice drawing stu! You should probably change the 10V PS to a wall wart for the dimming control to show the "typical" solution.
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