akindbro4u
New member
hope that helps
DIY LEDs - The write-up
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akindbro4u
New member
Where do the screws go when I drill and tap?
1,2,4,5?
or
1,4?
1 and 4, 0r 2 and 5
depends on your wiring
CJO
New member
Thanks everyone. Yes, I did mean counter-clockwise. Looks like it's too late to edit the post as well. Here it is again, this time in the correct form.
How to adjust your LED driver
1. Make sure your driver is connected to power and turned off.
2. Connect the V+ output of the driver to the positive (+) terminal of the first LED in the string.
3. Connect the negative (-) terminal fo the last LED in the string to the positive (+) test lead for your multimeter.
4. Connect the negative (-) test lead for your multimeter to the V- output of the driver.
5. Make sure that the test leads of your multimeter are connected properly (usually the positive [+] test lead needs to be connected to a different jack in the meter than normal) and set the meter to the proper range for testing amps.
6. If you have an adjustable potentiometer inside your driver (such as the eln-60-48d), make sure that it is turned all of the way counter-clockwise!
7. If your driver is dimmable, connect the Dim+ and Dim- wires to the appropriate control source (i.e., connect the eln-60-48d Dim+ wire to a +10V source and Dim- wire to ground).
8. Turn on the power source for the driver. Your lights should turn on and your meter should read the amps being provided by the driver.
9. Slowly turn the potentionmeter in your driver clockwise until your multimeter reads the correct output. For most LED's, this will be between 700mA and 1A.
10. Do not turn off your meter or disconnect it! This could easily blow all of your LEDs. Instead, first disconnect the power to the driver.
11. Now you can turn off your meter and disconnect it. Be sure that you return the leads on your meter to the proper place(s) for reading voltage so that you don't blow your meter the next time you use it!
CJ
How to adjust your LED driver
1. Make sure your driver is connected to power and turned off.
2. Connect the V+ output of the driver to the positive (+) terminal of the first LED in the string.
3. Connect the negative (-) terminal fo the last LED in the string to the positive (+) test lead for your multimeter.
4. Connect the negative (-) test lead for your multimeter to the V- output of the driver.
5. Make sure that the test leads of your multimeter are connected properly (usually the positive [+] test lead needs to be connected to a different jack in the meter than normal) and set the meter to the proper range for testing amps.
6. If you have an adjustable potentiometer inside your driver (such as the eln-60-48d), make sure that it is turned all of the way counter-clockwise!
7. If your driver is dimmable, connect the Dim+ and Dim- wires to the appropriate control source (i.e., connect the eln-60-48d Dim+ wire to a +10V source and Dim- wire to ground).
8. Turn on the power source for the driver. Your lights should turn on and your meter should read the amps being provided by the driver.
9. Slowly turn the potentionmeter in your driver clockwise until your multimeter reads the correct output. For most LED's, this will be between 700mA and 1A.
10. Do not turn off your meter or disconnect it! This could easily blow all of your LEDs. Instead, first disconnect the power to the driver.
11. Now you can turn off your meter and disconnect it. Be sure that you return the leads on your meter to the proper place(s) for reading voltage so that you don't blow your meter the next time you use it!
CJ
CJO
New member
akindbro4u
New member
Jay1982
New member
Thanks akindbro and CJO. You've taken time to help me out, and I thought i was following your steps properly and I was getting a reading of .04, so I tried turning the trimpot (SVR2) which according to the meanwell datasheet for the 60-48-P that is the one that controls the current. Well I tried adjusting the current, turn the trimpot all the way down and all the way up until it wouldn't turn anymore and the current NEVER changed from .04.
I'm getting a bit frustrated because it seems like something so simple and yet I'm just not understanding it. So I took a picture of my wiring and if someone can just circle where I have to put the positive probe and the negative probe I hopefully won't screw that up either.
The red circle is my PWM dimmer signal and according to its datasheet I have it hooked up correctly with one wire not used and that will be capped. The positive sign is where my LED string starts and the negative is where it ends.
Again, sorry CJO and akindbro, its just not sinking in for me.
I'm getting a bit frustrated because it seems like something so simple and yet I'm just not understanding it. So I took a picture of my wiring and if someone can just circle where I have to put the positive probe and the negative probe I hopefully won't screw that up either.
The red circle is my PWM dimmer signal and according to its datasheet I have it hooked up correctly with one wire not used and that will be capped. The positive sign is where my LED string starts and the negative is where it ends.
Again, sorry CJO and akindbro, its just not sinking in for me.
depresed34
Premium Member
led question
led question
for 36lx24wx30deep ,total surfase 864 sqinch,all sps right now lid by 400w 20k should I go with on e led for every 10 15 or 20sq inch?
led question
for 36lx24wx30deep ,total surfase 864 sqinch,all sps right now lid by 400w 20k should I go with on e led for every 10 15 or 20sq inch?
TheFishMan65
New member
Parallel Strings,
Going back to one of yesterday's discussions. I thought about this last night and maybe kcress or someone more knowledgeable will chime in. If you use the meanwells (or other driver cable of limiting voltage) does this work. Assume 3 strings with 3.5 Vf of 700 ma for all LEDs and 12 LEDs per string. Adjust the max voltage to 42.5 volts (12 x 3.5 + .5) and the current for 2100ma. Now if you loose a string the voltage will increase to 42.5 volts to try and drive 2100 ma (this might not matter if the voltage was set at 42 volts); but the string will only take 700 plus a little at 42.5 volts. This is really using the meanwell as a constant voltage source rather than a constant current source. So where is the problem in this?
I think constant voltage sources were mentioned way back somewhere and the problem was that they usually are not constant enough or cost way to much for that feature. So how good is the voltage cut off on the meanwells?
I am not saying this will or will not work; just trying to find a solution for big LED fixtures.
Going back to one of yesterday's discussions. I thought about this last night and maybe kcress or someone more knowledgeable will chime in. If you use the meanwells (or other driver cable of limiting voltage) does this work. Assume 3 strings with 3.5 Vf of 700 ma for all LEDs and 12 LEDs per string. Adjust the max voltage to 42.5 volts (12 x 3.5 + .5) and the current for 2100ma. Now if you loose a string the voltage will increase to 42.5 volts to try and drive 2100 ma (this might not matter if the voltage was set at 42 volts); but the string will only take 700 plus a little at 42.5 volts. This is really using the meanwell as a constant voltage source rather than a constant current source. So where is the problem in this?
I think constant voltage sources were mentioned way back somewhere and the problem was that they usually are not constant enough or cost way to much for that feature. So how good is the voltage cut off on the meanwells?
I am not saying this will or will not work; just trying to find a solution for big LED fixtures.
FW fugitive
New member
Could be a great idea...
One possible problem is the precision needed. The XPG takes only 0.3V difference between driving at 1000 mA and 1500 mA (its maximum); the XPE only about 150 mV between 700mA and 1000mA (its maximum). So the difference between normal running and maximum output on a string of 12 would be between 1.7 - 3.5 V approx.
So the PS would be regulating constant current at, say, 700 mA and 42 V on three strings. One LED fails open, and now it wants to sink 1550 mA (average) to the remaining strings and let the magic smoke out. But (using XPE's as an example) the voltage only rises to 42.5 V and now the PS is in constant voltage mode, which, looking at the XPE datasheet, should take you only up to ~800 mA.
:idea: :beer:
akindbro4u
New member
Thanks akindbro and CJO. You've taken time to help me out, and I thought i was following your steps properly and I was getting a reading of .04, so I tried turning the trimpot (SVR2) which according to the meanwell datasheet for the 60-48-P that is the one that controls the current. Well I tried adjusting the current, turn the trimpot all the way down and all the way up until it wouldn't turn anymore and the current NEVER changed from .04.
I'm getting a bit frustrated because it seems like something so simple and yet I'm just not understanding it. So I took a picture of my wiring and if someone can just circle where I have to put the positive probe and the negative probe I hopefully won't screw that up either.
The red circle is my PWM dimmer signal and according to its datasheet I have it hooked up correctly with one wire not used and that will be capped. The positive sign is where my LED string starts and the negative is where it ends.
Again, sorry CJO and akindbro, its just not sinking in for me.
Ok i'm gonna give this a shot. some questions for you. What is that thing you have connected between your driver, and your led string? From the photo it looks as though you have the red V+. and the blue dim+ hooked to it. Am I seeing this correctly? furthermore there should be nothing between your driver, and your led string.. If it is your pwm generator it should be separate.
can you take some close ups?
akindbro4u
New member
also i highly recommend you get your stars properly;y mounted to the heatsink before you start toying with them. They get hot quick, and you don't want to let the smoke out.
CJO
New member
Thanks akindbro and CJO. You've taken time to help me out, and I thought i was following your steps properly and I was getting a reading of .04, so I tried turning the trimpot (SVR2) which according to the meanwell datasheet for the 60-48-P that is the one that controls the current. Well I tried adjusting the current, turn the trimpot all the way down and all the way up until it wouldn't turn anymore and the current NEVER changed from .04.
I'm getting a bit frustrated because it seems like something so simple and yet I'm just not understanding it. So I took a picture of my wiring and if someone can just circle where I have to put the positive probe and the negative probe I hopefully won't screw that up either.
The red circle is my PWM dimmer signal and according to its datasheet I have it hooked up correctly with one wire not used and that will be capped. The positive sign is where my LED string starts and the negative is where it ends.
Again, sorry CJO and akindbro, its just not sinking in for me.
Unless I'm misunderstanding the picture, it looks like have neither the PWM signal generator nor the driver connected properly. I'm not familiar with your PWM signal generator, but my guess is that you should have line voltage going into the generator to power it. The output of the signal generator should then connect to the DIM+ and DIM- wires of the driver. The V+ and V- wires of the driver should then be connected to the LEDs. If you have them connected correctly, there should not be an extra wire from the driver, they should all be connected.
CJ
CJO
New member
Based on what I've read, you would probably want to look at closer to every 10-15 square inches, more for coverage than PAR since you will need to use fairly narrow optics to reach 30 inches deep. Also, this is assuming that you are using good LEDs.
CJ
TheFishMan65
New member
FW fugitive,
I think you had a type if one opens the other two will try and split 2100 or 1050. And you are correct the voltage limit save you. However, you made me think what if one shorts? That string will be at 38.5 volts so it will try and hog the current (maybe enough to damage something. So we still need fuses or resistor to limit the current through the defective string. I think the web site posted earlier will allow you to find resistor values. However, I don't like them, because it just boils down to a waste of power. There advantage is all LEDS stay on in a the case of an LED shorting. Fuses cause the loss of a whole string. Any more thought folks?
Jay,
I had trouble with the PWM to, but didn't figure it out till others posted. Are you sure it is working - you would probably need a scope? Replace it with a 9 volt battery for now. Just connect the 9V to the plus and minus dimming wires.
I think you had a type if one opens the other two will try and split 2100 or 1050. And you are correct the voltage limit save you. However, you made me think what if one shorts? That string will be at 38.5 volts so it will try and hog the current (maybe enough to damage something. So we still need fuses or resistor to limit the current through the defective string. I think the web site posted earlier will allow you to find resistor values. However, I don't like them, because it just boils down to a waste of power. There advantage is all LEDS stay on in a the case of an LED shorting. Fuses cause the loss of a whole string. Any more thought folks?
Jay,
I had trouble with the PWM to, but didn't figure it out till others posted. Are you sure it is working - you would probably need a scope? Replace it with a 9 volt battery for now. Just connect the 9V to the plus and minus dimming wires.
Hello,
I have a tank which is L200cm*W80cm*H70cm (approx. 79L*31,5W*27,5H inches). It is currently lit by a Gieseman Spectra 3*250w MH/4*80W T5.
The tank is a peninsula style viewable from 3 sides and with mostly SPS concentrated along the middle of the tank.
I`m thinking about removing the 3*250w halides from the spectra and replacing them with leds. (keeping the T5)
I would be able to fit the 7.280 inches wide sink from heatsink usa in the fixture and this heatsink could run the whole length of the fixture which is about 71 inches long.
I would like to dim using a profilux controller.
I know I would need a lot of leds which probably rules out the meanwell ELN-60-48D, so the million dollar question is: is there any other options for me that does not require building diy drivers ?
I have a tank which is L200cm*W80cm*H70cm (approx. 79L*31,5W*27,5H inches). It is currently lit by a Gieseman Spectra 3*250w MH/4*80W T5.
The tank is a peninsula style viewable from 3 sides and with mostly SPS concentrated along the middle of the tank.
I`m thinking about removing the 3*250w halides from the spectra and replacing them with leds. (keeping the T5)
I would be able to fit the 7.280 inches wide sink from heatsink usa in the fixture and this heatsink could run the whole length of the fixture which is about 71 inches long.
I would like to dim using a profilux controller.
I know I would need a lot of leds which probably rules out the meanwell ELN-60-48D, so the million dollar question is: is there any other options for me that does not require building diy drivers ?
TheFishMan65
New member
vpower,
I think so. Still working on the best design (other may have it, but if so I missed it). I went with building my own driver. However if you read the last page (2) GeorgeDope, FW Fugitive, I and maybe some others are tossing around ideas. I think one of the larger Meanwell's will do it, but I am not sure of the best way to wire it up. I would think you could try 120 LEDs. That is the low end about one per 20 square inches, but you plane to keep the T5 so it might work.
I think so. Still working on the best design (other may have it, but if so I missed it). I went with building my own driver. However if you read the last page (2) GeorgeDope, FW Fugitive, I and maybe some others are tossing around ideas. I think one of the larger Meanwell's will do it, but I am not sure of the best way to wire it up. I would think you could try 120 LEDs. That is the low end about one per 20 square inches, but you plane to keep the T5 so it might work.
ok, i finally got it...i've asked for pictures, but nobody seem to have them. i hope this picture will cure some frustrations from those that was like me.
the potentiometer aka driver (i think) connects to the meanwell, and you also need a power source (wallwart) 10v 1A. I got one off ebay. then the other end of the meanwell, you just need either a 2 prong or 3 prong regular power cord. if you use 3 prongs, don't use the middle wire.
the potentiometer aka driver (i think) connects to the meanwell, and you also need a power source (wallwart) 10v 1A. I got one off ebay. then the other end of the meanwell, you just need either a 2 prong or 3 prong regular power cord. if you use 3 prongs, don't use the middle wire.
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