DIY LEDs - The write-up

[tahiriqbal]

Try and get some extra LEDs and swap emm around to see for yourself.

 

[tahiriqbal]

Stu, as good as always. Would love to see it over the tank thats all... I bet you got some high tech micro controller to go with this baby....

 

[bassetbros]

With the Meanwell ELN-60-48D, If I have 2 drivers for white and 2 drivers for blue, could I use one 10 v wall wart with dimmer for each color or would I have to dim each driver independently?

Man...you experts are sooooo patient with the newbs! Thanks a lot guys.

 

[TheFishMan65]

You can use one pot for white and one for blue with one power supply. If you want you could use 4 pots and one power supply and control each side differently. One 10v supply will probably power more meanwells then anyone would use.

 

[bassetbros]

You can use one pot for white and one for blue with one power supply. If you want you could use 4 pots and one power supply and control each side differently. One 10v supply will probably power more meanwells then anyone would use.

Thanks!

 

[laverda]

Just get a ELN-60-48 which is not dimable. The ELN series is the only Mean wells series that is dimable.

In regards to the meanwell ELN-60-48D, is the 10v wall wart only required if you would like to utilize the dimming feature of this driver or is it required for overall function of the driver itself?

At this point, I don't really care one way or another about the dimming features but I like the fact that the meanwells don't have to have a power supply like the buckpucks.

Thanks and God bless,
basset

 

[TheFishMan65]

They are working on a more powerful version that is designed for multiple strings (PLC maybe) at least that is the way some folks here are using them. If I remember the data sheet then it will be dimmable, but I don't think the dimmable was out or maybe just not tested.

 

[tahiriqbal]

i got the choice to choose cree led from the follwing bins, what would be your choice?

For the cree xpg white

xpgwht01000000h51
xpgwht01000000h53
xpgwht01000000h50

for the cree royal blue

xperoyl1000000a01
xperoyl1000000a02
xperoyl1000000a03

thanks for your kind input..

anyone?????????bump...

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Tahir, those are order codes, NOT bin codes. An order code specifies a very wide range of possible bin codes, not a specific bin.

All of the cool white order codes you posted correspond to R5 brightness bin, so you're "safe" from an efficiency point with any of them. You can look on the bottom of page 23 of the binning and labeling guide to see the color bins included with each of those order codes. H50 is the smallest range but still includes a pretty wide range of bins.

Same with the royal blues. Those are all "15" brightness bin codes, which is the best. The lucky thing is that for royal blue, there are fewer color bins so there's a bit more correlation. The A01 code includes all bins. The A02 code is the two lower wavelength bins. The A03 code is the two warmer bins. See the top of page 22 in the binning and labeling guide.

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP_B&L.pdf

So you're basically taking a pot shot with the whites, unless you can ask the vendor for the specific bin(s) they have available. With the blues, I'd probably pick A02.

 

[TheFishMan65]

tahiriqbal,
The XPE if I am reading the data sheet correct
A01 is 450-465
A02 is 450-460
A03 is 455-465
If so I would get the A02 since it should be bluer, but that is only an opinion. See page 22.

The H on the XPG refer the chromacity point. The H50 is a subset of the other two (if I understand this). They should have the dominant wavelength near 5700k-6500k and is what I would order. The others give a wider spread of wavelengths. See page 9 and 23.
Binning chart

 

[tahiriqbal]

Thanks to both of you, OK so what flux would be nearest to 8K to 10K? Can't seems to find colour flux chart, I am sure I have seen it some where but can't find it anymore. Which BIN would you choose from the following?

0A, 0B, 0C, 0D, 0R, 0S, 0T, 0U, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 1R, 1S, 1T, 1U, 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2R, 2S, 2T, 2U, 3A, 3B, 3R, 3

Thanks once again...

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Look at the binning and labeling guide linked above - pick a bin that's on or close to the BBL (the dotted line through the middle of the charts). Pick one towards the left if you want more blue, or towards the right if you want more red.

Many people like to go towards the blue end, but a few people have reported this gives them a "washed out" look, and have gone towards the red end.

 

[tahiriqbal]

Thanks a million for the help, I guess 0D and 1B would be good mix to get rid off any washout look. I may even add few warm XPGs, lets say 2 warm whites to every 3 cool white. Royal blue A0 BIN will be ordered and thanks for help on this too.

Tahir

 

[Psionicdragon]

whats the maximum distance between each led? or what is the optimal spacing for the led for spread and par?

 

[TheFishMan65]

The kinds of tough question. Maximum distance 10 inches I would guess for a FOWLR. Most people do 2-3 inches between LEDs. And then lenses appropriate to the height of the fixture. Pack enough in there and you don'thave to worry about spread and you could probably get PAR near 1000 on the bottom. I think you need to be a little more specific. It also might help if you go back to page 150 and read the first few posts.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I did like 3" with no optics and it seems to be about right.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Here's my latest build!

50/50 XP-G cool whites & XP-E royal blues all mounted on 3-ups.
Attached to 2" heatsinks using screws & thermal grease.
Driven by ELN-60-48s.

Here is a pic of a finished pendant (on right) with optics & acrylic cover.
The pendant on the left does not have optics or cover.

Here is the "finished" product with 3up optics (43 degree) and acrylic cover.

Here is the pendant before optics.

Here is the 3up with optics

and the star without optics. You can see the whites are kind of yellow while the blues are clear.

They should put out: 12(LEDs)*3Watts*4strings= 150 watts each for an equivalent of about ~400 Watts equivalent MH.

They are for a LFS in my area (AI).

I'll post pics once I get them hung.

Stu

Sick as usual Stu. That pig should have some crazy PAR.

 

[laverda]

Here is an interesting way to drive Leds that I have not seen before. I have not seen any drivers set up that way, So I did a search for "multi-channel led driver". I got lots of hits but did not find anything obviously suitable for our needs. Definatly some interesting stuff available.
http://www.astrodyne.com/led-drivers/multi-channel.asp

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

There are some drivers that'll do "multi channels" like that, mainly meant for stage lighting, DJs, etc. where each channel would be a different color, to allow a single controller to blend colors. I haven't seen any that were reasonably priced or suitable for our applications, though. Plus, in the end, it's really just several driver circuits in one box, so you don't have any serious advantage over just using separate drivers.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Stu,

Source for the 3-up optics? And stars, for that matter?