DIY LEDs - The write-up

[hairy_frogfish]

Hello,
I have been trying to read most of LED related posts, but I still some question remaining, anybody can help me chosing?

First of all, project is to build the following fixture: 2 separated blocks of 24 LEDS. Each block will be composed of:
- 18 CREE XP-G Cool White R5 bin on star PCB
- 6 CREE XR-E Royal blue on star PCB

So this is 36 XP-G and 12 XR-E in total. I would like to be able to dim in case there is too much blue or white.

I will NOT:
- Go for parallel strings (as I seen it is risky if one led fails)
- Solder my own driver
- Buy 8 meanwell ELN's (Price + no PFC, which seems to be heat risk for the wires as I read on one post when high number of drivers on same wires)

I am thinking about of drivers, behind one or two PFC power supply. I cannot decide between those two kind below, or if there is a better solution:

Buck types: http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Controlling/Constant-Current-Power-Supply/BUCK-Constant-Current-Power-Supply--1000mA,-30V--LT-1553_118_119.html

Or constant type http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Controlling/Constant-Current-Power-Supply/PowerLine-SLIM-Constant-Current-Power-Supply--1000mA,-30V--LT-1153_118_119.html

I have really no electronic knowledge at all, so I cannot understand the difference between those

I think I would need 6 drivers 1000mA for the XP-G and 2 drivers of 700mA for the XR-E.

Am I right? Then next question, how many powersupply for all and which recommended type?

Thanks a lot for the help

 

[TheFishMan65]

Either of those driver would work - just not as flexible as most have been doing. I would lean toward the one that suppots PWM.

I think ou will find that that combination is too white. Usually when using XP=G there are more blues than white 60/40 is common. Also the XR-E can be run at 1000 ma so I would probably get all drivers the same. I think one 30 v supply will work from a quick read.

 

[laverda]

First of all, project is to build the following fixture: 2 separated blocks of 24 LEDS. Each block will be composed of:
- 18 CREE XP-G Cool White R5 bin on star PCB
- 6 CREE XR-E Royal blue on star PCB

I think you will want more blue LEDs unless you want a real white look.

I will NOT:
- Go for parallel strings (as I seen it is risky if one led fails)

One person said this and others have repeated it, yet several people are using them with no trouble. No to mention thousands and thousands of street lights. If a string fails after 7 years, who cares? I will probably have replace it long before then, with the newer 200 lumen's per watt low heat LEDs. Besides most hobbyist are not in the hobby that long. I have been for 7 years now and have seen hundreds come and go locally.

 

[akindbro4u]

The star boards are actually designed for parallel configurations.

 

[westmoorenerd]

I'm quite confident with the durability of LEDs after I saw the LED in my dive light.... Apparently the O-rings that seal the flashlight didn't seal too well and got salt water in the flashlight....well I rinsed the outside after diving, then went to use the flashlight a week later to go spearfishing....Everything was corroded on the inside. After a quick rubbing to get most of the corrosion off, the light still works perfectly...Oh and the dome for the LED broke off too.

 

[ti-christ]

Sammy could you describes your build in detail such as LED type, LED ratio, LED spacing, LED group Spacing, optics, tank dimension ,etc)?

Is the color White/blue merge or you have a checkboard effect?

I also want to know if you can see good grow on your SPS?

Thanks!

60 degree optics are ok
For meanwells you'll have to do your own boad/ dial to dim the drivers. There is another thread which has digrams and all.

Then again, what's the point of buying more powerful LEDs if you are dimming them down to match the blues? The other option is to buy these 96 in a 50:50 ratio and then add more blues? You'll need more heatsink space and a few more bucks. At the end you will dim the whole units cause its too much light and you'll bleach some corals.

The 125G lamp I build is running right now @30% power and already bleached some birdsnest and acros. I don't really think this thing will be running @ 100% anytime soon

 

[bassetbros]

In regards to the meanwell ELN-60-48D, is the 10v wall wart only required if you would like to utilize the dimming feature of this driver or is it required for overall function of the driver itself?

At this point, I don't really care one way or another about the dimming features but I like the fact that the meanwells don't have to have a power supply like the buckpucks.

Thanks and God bless,
basset

 

[TheFishMan65]

It is required without 10 the dimming is set to 0% so no light. 10V gives 100%.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

If you REALLY don't care about dimming, get a Meanwell without the dimming circuit. There are rumors that the ELN series is available without it, or use the LPC series, which is usually cheaper anyways.

 

[bassetbros]

which one of these do you suggest?

LPC Series


What would be the maximum # of the XP-G's that could be run on one string with the recomended driver?

Thanks and God bless,
basset

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

The LPC series are completely non-adjustable with respect to current, so you pick the model based on the current you want to run. Also, they are available in different max voltages, which tells you how many LEDs you can run on each.

The LPC-35-700 is readily available and appropriate - it runs at 700mA, which is a good current for the LEDs we typically use. It has a 48v max, which means from 12 - 14 LEDs depending on the Vf of the LED you pick. It's also cheap, around $20 from most suppliers.

 

[ti-christ]

It looks like that you are using XP-G LED, which Optic are you using?

So I recieved part of my missing order today from cutter (still missing my 3 drivers other drivers....). Something that was missing from the original order were the holders for the optics. I recieved them today and a quick look at this I have no idea how these are even practical or even useable... Anyways, I took a few snap shots:

Here it looks like the optic holder is supposed to go flush and square with the emitter, but it blocks the pads, and I highly doubt its ok for the holder to be resting on the soldered pads.

And here I just put the optic on the led, its not glued, would there be a way to just get these guys to stick on without the holder? I know I read superglue but this seems pretty tricky....

 

[ti-christ]

I'm going to build one for my 24G aquapod. I really don't want to go cutting the original light up for that.

Soudwave, could you put some picture showing the coral grows of your tank?

I will be very interesting from your guys to start a new thread to show your tank from the beginning to now with LED. While the first post describes in details your DIY LED fixture.

Best Regards!

 

[sammy113]

Sammy could you describes your build in detail such as LED type, LED ratio, LED spacing, LED group Spacing, optics, tank dimension ,etc)?

Is the color White/blue merge or you have a checkboard effect?

I also want to know if you can see good grow on your SPS?

Thanks!

I used CREE XRE Q5 whites and RB's on a 50/50 ratio with a 2" spacing from LED to LED and about 3" Row to row. Used 60 degree optics and meanwells ELN 60-48P. Tanks is a standard 125G 72" x 18" x 22"
This is not my tank, is a lamp I did for other so I can't really tell you about growth. It has been set up for about 2 months now

If you REALLY don't care about dimming, get a Meanwell without the dimming circuit. There are rumors that the ELN series is available without it, or use the LPC series, which is usually cheaper anyways.

You're alive! O_O :lol:

 

[dwl]

OK guys, I need some help.

I have 12 XP-G whites and 12 XR-E RB's. I am planning on using U-channel for the heatsink and have a sample piece of the aluminum trim channel for 3/4" plywood from Lowes.
It roughly measures 15/16" wide and is about 1/16" thick.
I plan to build a canopy box and run fans across the heatsinks and have a plenum box at the side, basically as Kcress has suggested.
I can and will go to 1/8" thick and wider stock if needed.

I have a cube (ish) tank with a 24" square footprint, but it has a false back/overflow, so the front to back inside dimensions are about 18", so I need to light roughly 23" x 18" at 18" depth.


2 questions, what ratio of XP-Gs to XR-E's should be using? Should I just use all 24 leds and dim the whites if/when needed, or use only about 8 or so of the whites and all of the blues?

Also, any suggestions as to how to orient the whites and blues?

Thanks.

if it was me I would do a shoebox sized fixture say 16x10, and mount it about 18" up. I would do all the blues, and eight of the whites. just my 2¢

Thanks to all for the replies, it is appreciated.

I did go out and get different channel for the heat sink which is 1" wide and is 1/8" thick so it should do better with the cooling. It is 1" x 1/2" x 1/8".

I was thinking about trying to use 8 of the white XP-G's and all 12 of the blue XR-E's but for whatever reason I cannot seem to get them layed out where they look OK to me.

So now I am thinking about 3 16" long strips with 7 leds on each strip using 4 blue and 3 white per strip. This would have me using 9 of the XP-G's and 12 of the XR-E's.

I still do not like the wat these are laying out for me, but this is what I have come up with at this point.

B W B W B W B

B W B W B W B

B W B W B W B


Can I get some opinions as to how you guys think this will look and maybe even some suggestions as to how to lay these things out?

Thanks

 

[tahiriqbal]

I got the choice to choose Cree LED from the follwing BINs, what would be your choice?

For the Cree XPG white

XPGWHT01000000H51
XPGWHT01000000H53
XPGWHT01000000H50

For the Cree Royal Blue

XPEROYL1000000A01
XPEROYL1000000A02
XPEROYL1000000A03

Thanks for your kind input..

 

[tahiriqbal]

Thanks to all for the replies, it is appreciated.

I did go out and get different channel for the heat sink which is 1" wide and is 1/8" thick so it should do better with the cooling. It is 1" x 1/2" x 1/8".

I was thinking about trying to use 8 of the white XP-G's and all 12 of the blue XR-E's but for whatever reason I cannot seem to get them layed out where they look OK to me.

So now I am thinking about 3 16" long strips with 7 leds on each strip using 4 blue and 3 white per strip. This would have me using 9 of the XP-G's and 12 of the XR-E's.

I still do not like the wat these are laying out for me, but this is what I have come up with at this point.
--------------------------------------------------------
B W B W B W B

B W B W B W B

B W B W B W B
-----------------------------------------------------------

Can I get some opinions as to how you guys think this will look and maybe even some suggestions as to how to lay these things out?

Thanks

Above setup would give you spotlight effect.

change to....

B W B W B W B

W B W B W B W

B W B W B W B

 

[sandrsReef]

just chiming in to say that this thread has been very informative!!

thanks for the updates and the educational responses.

 

[stugray]

Here's my latest build!

50/50 XP-G cool whites & XP-E royal blues all mounted on 3-ups.
Attached to 2" heatsinks using screws & thermal grease.
Driven by ELN-60-48s.

Here is a pic of a finished pendant (on right) with optics & acrylic cover.
The pendant on the left does not have optics or cover.

Here is the "finished" product with 3up optics (43 degree) and acrylic cover.

Here is the pendant before optics.

Here is the 3up with optics

and the star without optics. You can see the whites are kind of yellow while the blues are clear.

They should put out: 12(LEDs)*3Watts*4strings= 150 watts each for an equivalent of about ~400 Watts equivalent MH.

They are for a LFS in my area (AI).

I'll post pics once I get them hung.

Stu

 

[dwl]

Above setup would give you spotlight effect.

change to....

B W B W B W B

W B W B W B W

B W B W B W B

Thank you very much!

I don't know why I went totally brain dead when trying to lay this thing out, it is not nearly as difficult as I am making it. This uses 10 Whites and 11 Blues though...

If I go:

B W B W B W B

W B W B W B W

B W B B B W B

How bad will that end up being?

Thx.