DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Mike,

That's probably fine. It's really dictated by the ratings on the hardware you use (cable, plug, connection method, etc.) plus of course the rating on whatever you're going to plug them in to. So if you want to be 100% sure, find the specs for the components you'll use and double check. FWIW an ELN-60-48 running at full blast (which we're not likely to do anyways) is in the range of 60w, so it's not a very big load.
 
Dang Sammy, those are sweet on many levels. Plenty of surface area/mass, good shape, and it would be easy to duct a fan to blow down the "inside" of the extrusion if you needed it. Could also hide electronics in there and make an all-in-one unit that just had a regular 120v plug hanging off it.

Plus you could just attach a hanger and have a neat "industrial look" pendant.
 
I am wiring up 5 meanwells and was wondering if it is possible to wire 3 into one plug and 2 into another plug then I only have to buy 2 timers.

Yes you can, if you have the right power cable. Each menwell draws 1.3A so use a cable able to manage at least 5A
 
3.jpg

Almost needs no work at all to house LEDs in there. Just wire it, fan and slide in an acrylic sheet :)

wow those are slick! where did you find them?
 
Sammy, this is something I been looking for such a long time without any joy ;( .... Looks great and would appreciate if you could PM me the link where you got these profiles from..

Many thanks....
Tahir
 
These extrusions are distributed by Signcomp. Google it and download the PDF Catalog. They're 24' extrusions for signs, billboards and architectural applications. They're common in those maps at the mall and parks. I have a local store that has them but unfortunately they don't cut to size. You have to buy the entire 24' and costs ~$350
Pics were taken with demo cuts they had
 
Yeah is not bad when you have to buy a heatsink + shipping, designing a housing and making it adds some more $ and you end up with something that may not look as cool.
I can imagine these anodized! if there were a few people to buy in group is a good deal
 
Can you use 1 wall wart to control 2 pots into 2 Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable drivers? or would each driver need its own wall wart and pot?
 
Yup. The dimming port in meanwells require very low mA so a single wall wart can handle more than one driver. I've installed 4 meanwells on a single wall wart
 
Just to clarify you only need one potentiometer also. The center pin (usually) of the potentiometer can go to multiple meanwells. So you only need one potentiometer for each color. The same wall wart can drive multiple potentiometers.
 
Sweet, anyone know for sure if a 12v will be fine even if a kid accidently rams its up to max? Would it be better to go with a 9v? Last question: it has to be 1000MA exactly correct?
 
I would go with the 9 volt. I have read the max is 10.5. People have run them higher with no reported error, but there could be a life expectancy issue we might not see.

1000ma for what? LED current - can be whatever you want to get the color you want. Less than 1000ma will be dimmer, run cooler and may last longer.
 
Sweet, anyone know for sure if a 12v will be fine even if a kid accidently rams its up to max? Would it be better to go with a 9v? Last question: it has to be 1000MA exactly correct?

Some people have reported anecdotal evidence to suggest that you'd be fine at 12v, but meanwell is pretty adamant about limiting voltage so I'd try to stick with the spec.

Using a 9v wall wart is perfectly safe FWIW and essentially the only "issue" is that you'll loose a few percent of the dimming range thanks the the cutoff at the bottom occuring "sooner" if that makes sense. This is assuming you set the internal current trimpot to give your desired max current when running at 9v. In other words, you want to set the current trimpot under real-world conditions when your dim signal (whatever it is) is at it's max.

So, I'd either go with a 9v wall wart (check it to make sure it's actually 9v, many unregulated wall warts will be way above their rated voltage at low loads), or I'd use the 12v with a voltage regulator set to produce 10v.

Regarding your last question - not sure what you're asking about. There really isn't a strict current requirement for the wall wart supplying the dimming signal, if that's what you meant. The meanwells draw only a few mA each on that port, so you can use a wall wart with virtually any current rating.
 
I think I got it. When the potentiometer is supplying the maximum voltage (9 or 10) you want to set the internal trim pot to the maximum current you want to allow. It should not exceed 1000ma for XR-E (and I think XP-E) and 1500ma ((i believe) for Xp-G. Check the data sheet I don't recall maximum currents. If for some reason you want a maximum current less than the LED specify that is OK.
 
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