XSiVE
New member
You nailed it.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
You nailed it.
TenKreefer
New member
Don't know if anyone has tried using Car amplifier housings. They look very similar to what Sammy posted. I haven't been able to find any gutted housings available on the internet, but I'm sure you could post an ad in craigslist to buy a broken amp for $10
TenKreefer
New member
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Has anyone else seen the preliminary material on the new Meanwell HLG series?
http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-320h/default.htm
They get much bigger than the ELNs and offer similar/better features (good efficiency, power factor correction, and so on).
If you didn't mind parallel/matrix arrays, the biggest one could run something like 100 LEDs!
http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-320h/default.htm
They get much bigger than the ELNs and offer similar/better features (good efficiency, power factor correction, and so on).
If you didn't mind parallel/matrix arrays, the biggest one could run something like 100 LEDs!
Reef_Matrix29
Water Lover
der_wille, I looked at the link, but how do these really differ from what we are currently using? Are the benefits worth swapping out power supplies you think once these come out if the price isn't too high? I'm not really following the electrician jargon, so I need a little help understanding the bottom line of that pdf...
TheFishMan65
New member
I had looked at them and thought they might be good for a large tank. PWM and 0-10v is listed as dimming options, but no charts. I wonder if they have a better range yet.
TheFishMan65
New member
I don't think swapping, but for new builds it might save some money. IIRC the 48 volt verson was capable of 7.5 amps or so. If it only cost twice as much you could save the driver cost of 5 strings (more if you run at less current).
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
FishMan has it right. If you have ELNs, no reason to swap. If you're planning a smaller build, no reason to look at these (unless they end up cheaper than similarly-sized ELNs, which I doubt). The main advantage is just that they're available in vastly larger sizes. The ELN range tops out at 60w, these products can do 320 or 350w (I forget and don't have it open now).
akindbro4u
New member
where is currently the best place to buy leds. I noticed the prices have gone way up in the time between my builds, and I currently need in excess of 400. Can't justify it at almost $8 a piece for xpg.
OK I lied, LED's just came in the mail and brought up some more questions:
1: for electrical cable connections, especially where the power cable needs to be connected to the meanwells, I can just strip that cable back, twist them, apply a little solder and wrap in electrical tape correct? Anything special I need to know as to not burn down the house?
2: I have some solder I used years ago for motherboard work, its radioshack .063 dia 60/40 clear flux solder, this will work right? My iron is only 30w so I guess I'll need to upgrade that
3: Why are there 6 contact points on each LED, shouldn't they only need 4?
4: They bundled in 4 waterproof caps, are those supposed to go over the wires to the LED strings? why wouldn't they include extras for the dimming wires if so ?
5: Should the thermal compound coat the entire star board or just a small dab in the middle?
bonus question: do i need to run a ground wire for this? the meanwell cable doesn't have it, would I run a wire from the heatsink to the ground of the power cable? is this even needed?
Thanks you guys have been a HUGE help
1: for electrical cable connections, especially where the power cable needs to be connected to the meanwells, I can just strip that cable back, twist them, apply a little solder and wrap in electrical tape correct? Anything special I need to know as to not burn down the house?
2: I have some solder I used years ago for motherboard work, its radioshack .063 dia 60/40 clear flux solder, this will work right? My iron is only 30w so I guess I'll need to upgrade that
3: Why are there 6 contact points on each LED, shouldn't they only need 4?
4: They bundled in 4 waterproof caps, are those supposed to go over the wires to the LED strings? why wouldn't they include extras for the dimming wires if so ?
5: Should the thermal compound coat the entire star board or just a small dab in the middle?
bonus question: do i need to run a ground wire for this? the meanwell cable doesn't have it, would I run a wire from the heatsink to the ground of the power cable? is this even needed?
Thanks you guys have been a HUGE help
Okay, so considering your thoughts on these...would you suggest the use of 2 or so of the 150-48 versions if I'm looking at doing a 290g with about 144 LED's?
How careful would I have to be about balancing bins and or keeping the current low? I would like to use XP-G's and XP-E's and push their current up to being useful rather than half.
wld1783
Premium Member
Depending on where you shop the prices have been dropping quicker than Al Gores pants during a hotel massage....
You sure you want the XP-G? The Cree XR-E with the right optics does quite well. Two sites have them for $5.75...rapidled.com and reefledlights.com
I did an optics test and the 70 degree optics doubled the PAR. Here is a link.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1902716
Bill
Last edited:
The best place I found was reefledlights.com the guy there answered all my emails and since I had so many questions he told me just to call him. I bought the strips for my sump and plan to convert my whole tank as soon as I get the cash. I need at least 150-200 LEDs for my display so it's not in the budget until after Xmas. He quoted me an awesome price for 144 LEDs but I think I want to closer to 190. Give him an email or call and let him know you need a bulk order discount.
akindbro4u, how big is your build that you need over 400 XPG's? I have a 540g and I'm going to use 192 to start, then maybe jump up to mid 200's if I need to....
kcress
New member
1) Yes. Just make the tape tight and well done and don't use cheap cr@p tape. Use Slipknot Grey,(the finest electrical tape made), or 3M or some other quality tape.
2) That solder should be fine. The iron sounds lite but without a picture showing the tip it's hard to say.
3) The multiple points are for various configurations. You only need 2 not 4. If you don't know why you need to read more and understand series connections.
4) Beats me?
5) It needs to cover the whole base but only about 1/10,000 of an inch thick. That means a tiny dot of it in the middle of the star base should ultimately cover the whole base once it's screwed down.
Bonus) I believe the MeanWells do not have a ground connection. A sound design, would have you grounding your heatsink with the power cord's ground. Use a ring terminal and screw it to the heatsink.
I'm a big fan of just using heatshrink tubing, or wrapping a joint in teflon tape and some cherry tape...
With the thermal paste, you want to put just a dab on the bottom and sorta twist the star around a little when you put it down on the heatsink.
With the thermal paste, you want to put just a dab on the bottom and sorta twist the star around a little when you put it down on the heatsink.
Last edited:
TheFishMan65
New member
I was quoted these prices by Anna at ETG back in the middle of July - sorry about the formatting.
**All mounted on star board**
XRE White Q5 10pcs $6.00 50pcs $5.75 100pcs $5.60 500pcs $5.30 1000pcs $4.95
XRE Roy 10pcs $5.00 50pcs $4.75 100pcs $4.60 500pcs $4.30 1000pcs $3.95
XPG R5 10pcs $6.50 50pcs $6.25 100pcs $ 6.00 500pcs $5.75 1000pcs $5.35
XPE ROY 10pcs $5.00 50pcs $4.85 100pcs $4.25 500pcs $3.95 1000pcs $3.50
XRE Lenses: 40, 60 and 80 degree TY series $1.00ea for 10-200 $.90ea 201-500 $.80ea for 501 or better
XPG Lenses: 40 & 60 degree LL series $1.25ea for 10-200 $1.10ea 201-500 $.95ea for 501 or better
Prices have probably dropped.
**All mounted on star board**
XRE White Q5 10pcs $6.00 50pcs $5.75 100pcs $5.60 500pcs $5.30 1000pcs $4.95
XRE Roy 10pcs $5.00 50pcs $4.75 100pcs $4.60 500pcs $4.30 1000pcs $3.95
XPG R5 10pcs $6.50 50pcs $6.25 100pcs $ 6.00 500pcs $5.75 1000pcs $5.35
XPE ROY 10pcs $5.00 50pcs $4.85 100pcs $4.25 500pcs $3.95 1000pcs $3.50
XRE Lenses: 40, 60 and 80 degree TY series $1.00ea for 10-200 $.90ea 201-500 $.80ea for 501 or better
XPG Lenses: 40 & 60 degree LL series $1.25ea for 10-200 $1.10ea 201-500 $.95ea for 501 or better
Prices have probably dropped.
Yeah sorry I meant 2 not 4, so I can use any pad from either side of the polarity, they dont match up to the pad on the opposite side? The reason I'm asking is because I tried the AA battery test and didnt get any light on any of them, tried with 1 battery and 2 linked up (+ to -) and no go....tried it with my regular LED's I had laying around and they wouldn't light up either...battery tests good with my ammeter and when I use my continuity test on the ammeter I don't get a reading across any of the - or + pads but I do on the regular LED (can even get them to slightly light up on the 10kohm one)
Not really sure what I'm doing wrong, they can't all be bad can they
- Status
