conorwynne
New member
Very nice work.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
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stugray
Premium Member
AlgaeNator,
"Nice solid build there stu,"
Thanks and no pics, but i'll try tomorrow.
wmilas,
"How does the 1"x1" aluminum stock do for heat dissipation?"
I dont know in the long run, but one 8' piece has ~580 sqin of surface area ( any thermal engineers viewing the thread? )
As I said, after running for hours, the AL wasnt more than "warm" to the touch on the end.
I put the tube on expecting the LFS owner to put fans on.
If I were to build with the intention of no fans, then I would cut slots or notches in the back to increase convection.
"I could then cut the tubes (if I wanted to use them at all) along one side and bend them apart and "clip" them on the channel."
I tried this for another light I built for him and I could "clip" the tube on Four widths of this stuff but it was a little tight.
If you did three widths of 1X1 clamped tightly, you could easily still use the cut tube as a cover with the back open to convection.
kcress,
"Was that thermocouple attached to the aluminum or in the air near the aluminum?"
The TC is in mid air in the middle. I was going for the ambient air temp.
I should have put one of my hair-fine TCs under the middle star, but wasnt willing to sacrifice it.
"Stu's configuration is really quite good."
Thank you
I thought I had found the "holy grail" but got so little response, I just sulked for a while ;-)
conorwynne,
"Very nice work. "
Thanks
I figured that this can be done at this scale by anyone.
My 13 yr old son did a lot of the drilling & tapping, so it is not extremely difficult.
However, IF we ever decided to do a lot of "standardized LED rails" I am sure we could do a group buy & have all the channels drilled at a machine shop in quantity
I would do a LED pad every 4" and let the user decide how densely to put the LEDs ( then tap them yourself ).
I tapped them with a 8-32 loosely chucked into a screwgun.
you MUST clean the tap after EVERY hole if you do it that way.
Stu
"Nice solid build there stu,"
Thanks and no pics, but i'll try tomorrow.
wmilas,
"How does the 1"x1" aluminum stock do for heat dissipation?"
I dont know in the long run, but one 8' piece has ~580 sqin of surface area ( any thermal engineers viewing the thread? )
As I said, after running for hours, the AL wasnt more than "warm" to the touch on the end.
I put the tube on expecting the LFS owner to put fans on.
If I were to build with the intention of no fans, then I would cut slots or notches in the back to increase convection.
"I could then cut the tubes (if I wanted to use them at all) along one side and bend them apart and "clip" them on the channel."
I tried this for another light I built for him and I could "clip" the tube on Four widths of this stuff but it was a little tight.
If you did three widths of 1X1 clamped tightly, you could easily still use the cut tube as a cover with the back open to convection.
kcress,
"Was that thermocouple attached to the aluminum or in the air near the aluminum?"
The TC is in mid air in the middle. I was going for the ambient air temp.
I should have put one of my hair-fine TCs under the middle star, but wasnt willing to sacrifice it.
"Stu's configuration is really quite good."
Thank you
I thought I had found the "holy grail" but got so little response, I just sulked for a while ;-)
conorwynne,
"Very nice work. "
Thanks
I figured that this can be done at this scale by anyone.
My 13 yr old son did a lot of the drilling & tapping, so it is not extremely difficult.
However, IF we ever decided to do a lot of "standardized LED rails" I am sure we could do a group buy & have all the channels drilled at a machine shop in quantity
I would do a LED pad every 4" and let the user decide how densely to put the LEDs ( then tap them yourself ).
I tapped them with a 8-32 loosely chucked into a screwgun.
you MUST clean the tap after EVERY hole if you do it that way.
Stu
I'm trying to figure out the density I need. Lets say for the sake of argument I'm going with the XR-E's for both white and blue, driving both at 1000ma. Tank is 10x3 feet, 30 inches deep. I'll use 40 degree optics. I want even coverage over the whole tank, enough to grow high light SPS at the bottom if needed. using a 1 to 1 white/blue ratio.
I wont have to light how many inches inward from the outside of the tank? 4 inches? 6 inches?
When using the 1 led per 10 sq inches of the tank is that for the entire tank and then make the density of them tighter by just moving them in, or is it 1 per 10 of the inner lighted area?
I tried doing some math but I'm confused about the size of the stars. I know they are 20mm but 20mm what? Radius?
For instance if I were to place them 4 inches apart from the center of each star in only the area of 112x28 inches (120 inchesx36 inches subtracting 8 off for the curtain) that should be 28x7 junctions which equals 196 leds. That doesn't sound right and seems WAY too low. Same exercise 3 inches apart yields ~333 leds. sounds closer but not right. 2.5 inches yields ~500. That seems a bit high. Any idea on the correct amount of leds to use for a no compromise lighting setup?
I wont have to light how many inches inward from the outside of the tank? 4 inches? 6 inches?
When using the 1 led per 10 sq inches of the tank is that for the entire tank and then make the density of them tighter by just moving them in, or is it 1 per 10 of the inner lighted area?
I tried doing some math but I'm confused about the size of the stars. I know they are 20mm but 20mm what? Radius?
For instance if I were to place them 4 inches apart from the center of each star in only the area of 112x28 inches (120 inchesx36 inches subtracting 8 off for the curtain) that should be 28x7 junctions which equals 196 leds. That doesn't sound right and seems WAY too low. Same exercise 3 inches apart yields ~333 leds. sounds closer but not right. 2.5 inches yields ~500. That seems a bit high. Any idea on the correct amount of leds to use for a no compromise lighting setup?
AlgaeNator
New member
WM- This image below, might you visulize how they measure the stars, from the pre-cut luxeon Star thermal tape backings jpg. They show the measurement from flat side to flat side of the hexagon backing. Assuming the star star itself will be a bit less than this it turns out .8" = 20.32mm for the backing itself. Star base should be slightly less than this. (in mm)
As for spacing from the side, I think only testing real life rigs over your tank will give you that answer. But worse case scenario, you dont have enough on the edges, you can ALWAYS add more after the fact to get good coverage? Again as you read below you will see that Viewing angle of each emitter varies, and also the use of Optics could help here. (there have to optics available that also defract the light increasing viewing angle, most think they only "focus" the light, I differ in this belief) I will do more research on the optics portion of LED's and see what's really what.
As most of us already know, Adding (typical) optics will reduce the spread of the light from the emitter (in most case IMHO), thus focusing it more downward. Due to this fact, I would think the Stars would need to be closer when using narrowing spread optics, but not adding optics option, and then the actual choice of emitter's spread angle (it differs) might help spread the light out more and give you more distance between each emitter w/out the "spot light effect". However, in doing so, you may lose some penetration that optics will give you. For a shallow tank 24" or less this wont be THAT much of an issue I would think, LED's by their nature are VERY directional on their own, optics only help focus the light even more intensly downward vs sideways.
An idea would be to ADJUST the distances depending on location of the emitters... ie... U might consider using optics on the fringe of your array's as others have suggested to not "waste" the LED light on the sides of the tank, by doing so, you place these closer together.. (say 2" apart) Then spread out the interior ones... to may 3" Why? Logic would say leave the center emitters optic free an a bit more spread out allowing the light to "spill" into the tank, When you put optics on the outer fringes (near tank sides) of your array's, it will tend to foucus the light where you want it.. which is insidie the tank VS spilling out the sides of the tank.
Im not sure what the limitations on space between each emitter is before you get spotting, I think it could vary a bit, and EXACLTYL where soundwave (the originator) took his 2" measurement from? Was it between each emitter?? (from (center of emitter, or SIDE of the star's base?) Thats a good question to get an answer to I suppose, someone probably knows it on here.. (feel free to chime in if you do)
I would think the actual spacing all depends on some other factors, like:
1. The emitter's viewing angle of spread itself 90deg? 125deg? 160deg? 180deg? (they differ)
2. Type of optics you choose, assuming you can focus the light with optics, I bet you could also choose optics that SPREAD the light?... research it.
3. Intensity of the emitter itself. Assuming again, that the brighter the emitters, then more you could be theoretically space them further apart without "spotting"
I myself want to test this out using some XPG Cree's to see what the limitations really are before spotting occurs. For me it will come down to trial and error, I will temp mount them on some alum strips using the adhesive backing, and fire them up to give a proof of concept test to the spacing using NO optics. Im not sure there is a better way to test your particular emitters than to actually mount them, and then fire them up and check to see how far you can spread them out before spotting occurs.
This is a pretty important point and issue to figure out too, using 13 emitters in an array VS using 14 could mean a BIG the difference in your driver capabilites and needs. ONe driver I am looking at can ONLY support 26 700mA 3W Crees. To attemp to drive 13 in one array over a 48" Tank I would need 3.7" between them. Spacing really starts to matter here.
One last thing, some of the newer emitters like the XPG Cree's are quite a bit BRIGHTER than what SoundWave was using. Using the newer emitters available today it might allow us builders to space them a bit further apart than he did with little or no spotting issues.
According to this spec sheet, soundwave's WHITE emitters have a viewing angle of 90deg.
http://ledsupply.com/docs/cree-xre.pdf
Again the Viewing angle varies/emitter.. ie.. My choice for white emitters is going to be the CREE XPG... the XPG's light angle is 125deg
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf
This is a full 35 degree difference in viewing angle/light spread... How much this effects the spotting effect? I guess we will see.
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kcress
New member
wmilas; Perhaps you should re-think your setup.
You seem to be heading down the old path of intense uniform lighting.
Here we finally have a lighting method that allows precision illumination area by area and it seems you want 'uniform intense everywhere'.
From reading the growing body of knowledge this thread represents you will see that you can't generally apply optics to all the LEDs and not suffer from noticeable spot-lighting. You can, possibly, not have bottom spot lighting but you may see light columns at the top as these focused beams are first entering the water column.
Setting up for a bazillion LEDs that are going to be drawing power and money out of one's pocket day after day and who's initial outlay will be large dollars, not to mention, the hassles of the shear number of wires you could be looking at, should give you pause..
Because you have such depth perhaps you should not use a standard array at all. Customize the optics and the very arrangement to specifically address your aquascapes needs. Group spot lights to light up deep growing spots. Run no optics for the higher locations. Place LEDs only where you need them. Use dimmable drivers to allow fine tuning. Don't over illuminate any spots. Don't start counting LEDs. Just put in what is needed to do a spectacular job.
Doing it in a customized manner could have you lighting the tank perfectly for far fewer LEDs than otherwise.
I think uniform lighting is going to be going out of vogue soon. Like Pink Floyd was the first classic band to recognized that silence was effective and artistic, with pauses bringing increased emphasis on what sound follows, I think non-uniform lighting in our displays can be important to highlighting the brighter locations in a far more spectacular way than previously available to us.
Food for thought, I hope.
You seem to be heading down the old path of intense uniform lighting.
Here we finally have a lighting method that allows precision illumination area by area and it seems you want 'uniform intense everywhere'.
From reading the growing body of knowledge this thread represents you will see that you can't generally apply optics to all the LEDs and not suffer from noticeable spot-lighting. You can, possibly, not have bottom spot lighting but you may see light columns at the top as these focused beams are first entering the water column.
Setting up for a bazillion LEDs that are going to be drawing power and money out of one's pocket day after day and who's initial outlay will be large dollars, not to mention, the hassles of the shear number of wires you could be looking at, should give you pause..
Because you have such depth perhaps you should not use a standard array at all. Customize the optics and the very arrangement to specifically address your aquascapes needs. Group spot lights to light up deep growing spots. Run no optics for the higher locations. Place LEDs only where you need them. Use dimmable drivers to allow fine tuning. Don't over illuminate any spots. Don't start counting LEDs. Just put in what is needed to do a spectacular job.
Doing it in a customized manner could have you lighting the tank perfectly for far fewer LEDs than otherwise.
I think uniform lighting is going to be going out of vogue soon. Like Pink Floyd was the first classic band to recognized that silence was effective and artistic, with pauses bringing increased emphasis on what sound follows, I think non-uniform lighting in our displays can be important to highlighting the brighter locations in a far more spectacular way than previously available to us.
Food for thought, I hope.
AlgaeNator
New member
Kcress has some vaild points there.. There are a LOT of variables to consider when figuring out your array's and use and type of optics, and emitters. I have been pondering this EXACT thing today as a matter of fact. How many emitters do i need?
He is also right stating that LED's allow us MANY options for placement vs fixed tubes or bulbs. OF course each tank is different, but it is good food for thought... Layouts can vary from individual tank's needs depth's and rock layouts, and type of animals/corals you wish to grow now and IN the future too. (no use putting a row near or at into the back of your tank/ heatsink, that only shoots that LED light behind your Live Rock, where nothing is placed or growing?)
Which is why I think is another good Argument in the PRO column, for using the "Bond Ply" backing tape from the link below, because it will ALLOW the tester/installer/fabricator, test the emitter setup and emitter placements, BEFORE comitting and permanently adhering your stars to your heat sinks. Why spend all that time drilling, gluing something only to have to chip/re-drill/tap and mount again, until you are SURE the emitters are where you want them?
I plan on using those Luxeon Adhesive backings backings during my proof of concept ideas and initial placment of the STARS on my heatsinks. You get 12 of them for like 8$ if you dont like your setup, just break out the Water Based Goof Off, remove them, re wire as necessary, and start over. It allows you to TEST your spacing and placement of the stars and emitters/optics you choose before COMMITTING as you would drilling them or cementing them in place (that's my thinking anyways)
http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php
During testing I will have an acrylic sheet between the water and the stars incase a castrophic failure of the backing occurs and they break free, they will fall on the Acrylic vs into the water. Not likely but possible... Even then, my thinking is, unless ALL of them release at the same time, the next nearest emitter should hold it in place with the wiring if ONE or two was to give way.
One thing that kinda calms my nerves is the following quotes on the page....
"Bond strength increases over time when repeatedly exposed to high continuous-use temperature"
"Benefits
•Provides an excellent dielectric barrier
•Can be used instead of heat cure or two part adhesives, mechanical fasteners or mounting clips
•Easy to use double-sided, pressure sensitive adhesive tape that bonds immediately
•High bond strength to a variety of surfaces"
Over time once I am happy with placement of my emitters and experimenting with different optics, I can mount/glue them permanently and sleep better at night?
heheh
He is also right stating that LED's allow us MANY options for placement vs fixed tubes or bulbs. OF course each tank is different, but it is good food for thought... Layouts can vary from individual tank's needs depth's and rock layouts, and type of animals/corals you wish to grow now and IN the future too. (no use putting a row near or at into the back of your tank/ heatsink, that only shoots that LED light behind your Live Rock, where nothing is placed or growing?)
Which is why I think is another good Argument in the PRO column, for using the "Bond Ply" backing tape from the link below, because it will ALLOW the tester/installer/fabricator, test the emitter setup and emitter placements, BEFORE comitting and permanently adhering your stars to your heat sinks. Why spend all that time drilling, gluing something only to have to chip/re-drill/tap and mount again, until you are SURE the emitters are where you want them?
I plan on using those Luxeon Adhesive backings backings during my proof of concept ideas and initial placment of the STARS on my heatsinks. You get 12 of them for like 8$ if you dont like your setup, just break out the Water Based Goof Off, remove them, re wire as necessary, and start over. It allows you to TEST your spacing and placement of the stars and emitters/optics you choose before COMMITTING as you would drilling them or cementing them in place (that's my thinking anyways)
http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php
During testing I will have an acrylic sheet between the water and the stars incase a castrophic failure of the backing occurs and they break free, they will fall on the Acrylic vs into the water. Not likely but possible... Even then, my thinking is, unless ALL of them release at the same time, the next nearest emitter should hold it in place with the wiring if ONE or two was to give way.
One thing that kinda calms my nerves is the following quotes on the page....
"Bond strength increases over time when repeatedly exposed to high continuous-use temperature"
"Benefits
•Provides an excellent dielectric barrier
•Can be used instead of heat cure or two part adhesives, mechanical fasteners or mounting clips
•Easy to use double-sided, pressure sensitive adhesive tape that bonds immediately
•High bond strength to a variety of surfaces"
Over time once I am happy with placement of my emitters and experimenting with different optics, I can mount/glue them permanently and sleep better at night?
heheh
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
AlgaeNator,
One comment about mounting. The tape you've posted is pretty strong stuff - I wouldn't really want to go through the hassle of trying to un-adhere it, clean it off, and use another piece ($$) every time I wanted to move LEDs in a prototype - vs. just drilling two more holes and screwing the LED down in a new spot, which takes about 8 seconds if you've got a drill press, and doesn't cost anything. Plus, depending on the thermal paste you use, the heat transfer is likely to be much better with screwed down LEDs vs taped or glued LEDs.
I'm curious to know what driver you're considering that can do 26 LEDs per string.
One comment about mounting. The tape you've posted is pretty strong stuff - I wouldn't really want to go through the hassle of trying to un-adhere it, clean it off, and use another piece ($$) every time I wanted to move LEDs in a prototype - vs. just drilling two more holes and screwing the LED down in a new spot, which takes about 8 seconds if you've got a drill press, and doesn't cost anything. Plus, depending on the thermal paste you use, the heat transfer is likely to be much better with screwed down LEDs vs taped or glued LEDs.
I'm curious to know what driver you're considering that can do 26 LEDs per string.
AlgaeNator
New member
As for the tape: Welp, I dont plan on having to move mine around that much for my design, I will build only ONE of my array's to prove the concept and check for spacing/spotting before I build the others. Not only that, another better idea for my self and others, for placement before comittiment to test the spotting etc.. Could be done, by simply by turning them on for just a second or two, to check spread, then quickly turn them off to prevent damage, To hold them in position, by masking/duct taping the connecting wires to some object or even the heat sink placing over the tank firing them up for a few seconds only to prevent damage to the emitters.
But if I ever had to remove one or replace one, I am hoping the goof off will do it simply by soaking it for a moment, I am hoping it will peel off like butter but One never knows until one tries hehehe. Or by using some other spray on, chemical label removing liquids that aren't harsh enough to damage the emitters (keep them dry). I may end up drilling and using the sheet metal screws like everyone else in the end. Hey, it sounds like you have used the tape stuff? If you have, then I'm glad to hear its very strong. The heat transfer is a concern I have had though, but they "claim" it does a good job of that too, being designed for LED's, I would hope and think it does,
The temperature transfer to the heatskink with the tapes can be tested I suppose to see how "good" they actually do compared to other methods by testing temps of similar LED's over time on the heatsinks directly above the LED's when mounted with tape, then compare thermal grease and screws. Maybe you have already done such tests? I would be interested in your results if so, please post it in a reply.
As for the driver, Its an industrial driver Called a "LumiDrive" made by Dialight,
http://www.dialight.com/
Model Number PW-60-1-70 P, (60W max) is the 700mA model, which I am talking about, and it aint Cheap. There are a few versions of it too.. a 350 mA (model number PW-60-1-35 P) and the 700mA. It appears the 700mA can also be "preset" for 350mA or 700mA.
What I liked about it was that, it can power 8-26 "3W LED's" at 700mA, or 17-48 "3W LED's" @ 320mA. And what seems to be the case is you can pre-set the driver for one or the other mA, with this model, appears to be able to both? Which is pretty cool in itself.
Here is spec sheet on both models:
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/DIALIGHT/PWD-60-1-70-P.pdf
I found one purchase site in AUS? Cutter Cutter electronics Price at around $157.00 USD here.
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Lumidrives
I am in the process of trying to find a supplier in the US for it, I found a few that could probably can get it if they dont carry it, in the US by using the "where to buy" button on Dailight.com
http://www.dialight.com/WhereToBuy.aspx
Though the one site I checked, didnt have it listed in their products by part number (digikey) The other didnt give price only SPEC's
http://www.futurelightingsolutions.com/products/Power.asp ,
So I will have to call around see how much in USD it will be.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-5962-1-ND&enterprise=12
Finally these "Powerlight Strips" they mentioned on the LimiDrives Spec sheet? I find kind of interesting too, though they seem underpowered for our needs, 80m Luxeon and have the wrong optics options for us, but.... maybe....they could be ehheem.. ramped up a bit with some HO emitters possibly, but it appears they only have internal 350mA drivers.. so that could be a problem not worth investing in it only to re-engineer it, Not only that how much $$ are they charging for it? They might have a niche market with Reef'ers if they would produce longer more powerful ones with newer emitters and the larger external drivers700mA.. IMHO. Looks like they can be connected in "modular" form between each module so it seems you can add as many as you want with these as they have internal drivers.
http://www.dialight.com/Assets/Brochures_And_Catalogs/Illumination/MDEXLUMPWMLV.pdf
But if I ever had to remove one or replace one, I am hoping the goof off will do it simply by soaking it for a moment, I am hoping it will peel off like butter but One never knows until one tries hehehe. Or by using some other spray on, chemical label removing liquids that aren't harsh enough to damage the emitters (keep them dry). I may end up drilling and using the sheet metal screws like everyone else in the end. Hey, it sounds like you have used the tape stuff? If you have, then I'm glad to hear its very strong. The heat transfer is a concern I have had though, but they "claim" it does a good job of that too, being designed for LED's, I would hope and think it does,
The temperature transfer to the heatskink with the tapes can be tested I suppose to see how "good" they actually do compared to other methods by testing temps of similar LED's over time on the heatsinks directly above the LED's when mounted with tape, then compare thermal grease and screws. Maybe you have already done such tests? I would be interested in your results if so, please post it in a reply.
As for the driver, Its an industrial driver Called a "LumiDrive" made by Dialight,
http://www.dialight.com/
Model Number PW-60-1-70 P, (60W max) is the 700mA model, which I am talking about, and it aint Cheap. There are a few versions of it too.. a 350 mA (model number PW-60-1-35 P) and the 700mA. It appears the 700mA can also be "preset" for 350mA or 700mA.
What I liked about it was that, it can power 8-26 "3W LED's" at 700mA, or 17-48 "3W LED's" @ 320mA. And what seems to be the case is you can pre-set the driver for one or the other mA, with this model, appears to be able to both? Which is pretty cool in itself.
Here is spec sheet on both models:
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/DIALIGHT/PWD-60-1-70-P.pdf
I found one purchase site in AUS? Cutter Cutter electronics Price at around $157.00 USD here.
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Lumidrives
I am in the process of trying to find a supplier in the US for it, I found a few that could probably can get it if they dont carry it, in the US by using the "where to buy" button on Dailight.com
http://www.dialight.com/WhereToBuy.aspx
Though the one site I checked, didnt have it listed in their products by part number (digikey) The other didnt give price only SPEC's
http://www.futurelightingsolutions.com/products/Power.asp ,
So I will have to call around see how much in USD it will be.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-5962-1-ND&enterprise=12
Finally these "Powerlight Strips" they mentioned on the LimiDrives Spec sheet? I find kind of interesting too, though they seem underpowered for our needs, 80m Luxeon and have the wrong optics options for us, but.... maybe....they could be ehheem.. ramped up a bit
with some HO emitters possibly, but it appears they only have internal 350mA drivers.. so that could be a problem not worth investing in it only to re-engineer it, Not only that how much $$ are they charging for it? They might have a niche market with Reef'ers if they would produce longer more powerful ones with newer emitters and the larger external drivers700mA.. IMHO. Looks like they can be connected in "modular" form between each module so it seems you can add as many as you want with these as they have internal drivers.http://www.dialight.com/Assets/Brochures_And_Catalogs/Illumination/MDEXLUMPWMLV.pdf
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AlgaeNator,
Heres how I planned my led layout. A scale diagram on the ground and a measuring tape, and in the end solidworks lol
I worked out the aquascape I wanted and then calculated the spread of each led with various optics. I ended up using 20 deg and 40 deg optics in the end.
I totally agree with Kcrees
"Here we finally have a lighting method that allows precision illumination area by area and it seems you want 'uniform intense everywhere"
My spot light tank
Heres how I planned my led layout. A scale diagram on the ground and a measuring tape, and in the end solidworks lol
I worked out the aquascape I wanted and then calculated the spread of each led with various optics. I ended up using 20 deg and 40 deg optics in the end.
I totally agree with Kcrees
"Here we finally have a lighting method that allows precision illumination area by area and it seems you want 'uniform intense everywhere"
My spot light tank
Please review my design.
Please review my design.
I have been lurking around this thread and others for a while, looking at the various designs and would like to get some feedback on this design. My tank is a 90 Gallon - 48 x 18 x 24 deep. I was looking at building a modular array w/ 24 LEDs per block. XR-E Q5 for whites and XR-E for royal blues. The light cones / circles reflect using 80 deg. optics on everything except the perimeter LEDs which are 60 deg. This also reflects 10 inches from the Light Source. I intend to place the arrays 4 inches above the water surface and this should be the coverage at appox. 6 inches below. I will use dimmable Meanwell Drivers and control them w/ a Reef Keeper Lite controller. I will use a Heatsink USA heatsink and fans, but will probably do some acrylic work to shield the LEDs and Optics. I want to maximize the intensity, while avoiding the light columns some speak of. At first I had the modules flipped 90 deg. (Like the Aqua Illumination Modules), but opted for this arrangement, thinking I could move it forward or backward to better illuminate the front of the aquascape. This is a new aquarium. I am down to building the lights to get it ready to set up. You guys that have built these, I would appreciate your comments or recommendations on the layout, optic choices, etc.
Thanks,
Tommy
Please review my design.
I have been lurking around this thread and others for a while, looking at the various designs and would like to get some feedback on this design. My tank is a 90 Gallon - 48 x 18 x 24 deep. I was looking at building a modular array w/ 24 LEDs per block. XR-E Q5 for whites and XR-E for royal blues. The light cones / circles reflect using 80 deg. optics on everything except the perimeter LEDs which are 60 deg. This also reflects 10 inches from the Light Source. I intend to place the arrays 4 inches above the water surface and this should be the coverage at appox. 6 inches below. I will use dimmable Meanwell Drivers and control them w/ a Reef Keeper Lite controller. I will use a Heatsink USA heatsink and fans, but will probably do some acrylic work to shield the LEDs and Optics. I want to maximize the intensity, while avoiding the light columns some speak of. At first I had the modules flipped 90 deg. (Like the Aqua Illumination Modules), but opted for this arrangement, thinking I could move it forward or backward to better illuminate the front of the aquascape. This is a new aquarium. I am down to building the lights to get it ready to set up. You guys that have built these, I would appreciate your comments or recommendations on the layout, optic choices, etc.
Thanks,
Tommy
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bobbyrocco
In Memoriam
Hey Titan I recently just finished my LED build for my 120 which has similar diminsions to your tank. My array is really one big heatsink that hangs over the middle of my tank. There are no lights over my euro brace which is 4" around the entire tank. I also didnt put leds over my overflow but other than that the led's are spaced just over 2" apart length wise and 3 inches between rows. I have 60 degree optics over most of the leds with some 40 degree optics over the sand where there is no rocks. I am running all the LED's at 900mA and right now I have the blues dimmed to 90% and the whites at 70%. That is what is so cool about these lights is you can change the look of the entire tank every hour if you want just by adjusting a button. I do have some shadows around the front and sides of the tank but thats what I was going for and I can get better coverage if I take the optics off. Here are some pics so you can see for yourself.
This is no optics
This is all optics
And the actual light
This is no optics
This is all optics
And the actual light
Reef_Matrix29
Water Lover
Nice looking tank, what's your wall made of....argonite?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Yes, I've used it. It's pretty strong. Let's say I wouldn't want to pull it off and clean it up even once. But then again, I'm lazy and I have a drill press.
Most manufacturers of thermal products publish heat transfer rates (C/W) so you can just look it up, instead of testing. Good thermal paste, when the LED is screwed tight and the surface is prepped properly, has a very good transfer rate compared to most methods where there isn't clamping (i.e. adhesive tapes or epoxies) purely because the clamping force of the screws makes for pretty good contact.
That's a really nice looking driver, though I've never used it. It's really expensive as you noted earlier. You could use the common meanwell drivers instead - the ELN60-48 can drive 12 LEDs, has an internal trimpot to adjust max current, and you can get it dimmable via 0-10V DC or PWM. So pretty much the same featureset you're looking at, but they're around $30 a pop (so, $60 for two) which makes them about half the price of that Dialight unit.
If you really want the dialight unit, I'm pretty sure ledsupply.com carries their products, so they might be able to get it even if it's not on their website.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Finally these "Powerlight Strips" they mentioned on the LimiDrives Spec sheet? I find kind of interesting too, though they seem underpowered for our needs, 80m Luxeon and have the wrong optics options for us, but.... maybe....they could be ehheem.. ramped up a bit
http://www.dialight.com/Assets/Brochures_And_Catalogs/Illumination/MDEXLUMPWMLV.pdf
The powerbright strips are meant for office and home lighting, and they're really good for that purpose (I helped influence my previor employer to install them in a remodeled conference room over the summer). But, by the time you modded them to the point that they met the longerm price/performance ratio of a scratchbuilt array, you might as well just start from scratch. You're going to have to upgrade the LEDs themselves, and likely the drivers (or at least whatever components in the driver make up the current feedback). And then there's heatsinking, etc.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I've never used that unit, but I can 99% guarantee that it'll be fine providing signal to multiple drivers, there's really almost no load on the dimming circuit of most drivers.
If you were really concerned, you could ask the manufacturer of the driver for the current draw on the dimming circuit, then ask the manufacturer of the controller for the max current per ALC unit. If it somehow turned out that you were going to have trouble (you might, if you tried to dim a dozen drivers from one unit, for example), then you could build a pretty simple circuit that would solve the problem - there would really be no need for more channels of control just to handle more drivers, if you want a bunch of drivers to behave the same.
kcress, algaenator, stu, thanks for your informative comments. I'm not looking for 100% coverage. For instance I have no plans to light the back, sides, and very front. I have 2 rock islands, with another clump of rock nestled into a corner. These will get the primary light. However as the coral grows out I plan on putting individual corals down on the sand. I don't want to gimp myself by not adding light in those areas.
Granted if I do it in a modular enough way I could add more light later as I fill out parts of the tank. Hum. As resistant as I was to the idea at first the more I think about it, the more it grows on me.
So what I need is a basic grid that covers the entire tank. This secondary grid would have higher spread optics. I would then have a "primary" grid that has tighter optics, and is higher density. It would spotlight my SPS.
How to make these two grids with practicality though. The first impulse is to just "mesh" them together but I think that would be a mess in the long run. If I use the channel aluminum idea I could build a grid for the secondary grid. Then add new channels in places where I need the primary and pack those channels denser.
Is this making any sense? The secondary grid would have high spread optics in the "middle" of the tank and tight optics along the sides so as to not leak light on the glass. Either that or tune it so that the light throw from the middle ends up just at the sides.
The primary grid would be picked tight with its own drivers. As I need to add to it I can fill out the channels with more LEDS/driver and /or add new channels.
I need to figure out a good way to attach teh channels to a frame so they can be easily lifted out and unwired.
I'll post a few shots of my tank tomorrow if I get the time to take a few shots
Granted if I do it in a modular enough way I could add more light later as I fill out parts of the tank. Hum. As resistant as I was to the idea at first the more I think about it, the more it grows on me.
So what I need is a basic grid that covers the entire tank. This secondary grid would have higher spread optics. I would then have a "primary" grid that has tighter optics, and is higher density. It would spotlight my SPS.
How to make these two grids with practicality though. The first impulse is to just "mesh" them together but I think that would be a mess in the long run. If I use the channel aluminum idea I could build a grid for the secondary grid. Then add new channels in places where I need the primary and pack those channels denser.
Is this making any sense?
The secondary grid would have high spread optics in the "middle" of the tank and tight optics along the sides so as to not leak light on the glass. Either that or tune it so that the light throw from the middle ends up just at the sides.The primary grid would be picked tight with its own drivers. As I need to add to it I can fill out the channels with more LEDS/driver and /or add new channels.
I need to figure out a good way to attach teh channels to a frame so they can be easily lifted out and unwired.
I'll post a few shots of my tank tomorrow if I get the time to take a few shots
- Status
