DIY LEDs - The write-up

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TheFishMan65 said:
Gee I expected more pages since I have been gone. Come on DFason what did you fix? Here is what I got working - finally.
picture.php
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Don't know how I missed this until today, I've been playing with the idea of building something very similar for my next tank. So maybe before building it I'll just ask you how it's working out :lol:

So how is it working out so far? I'm thinking at this point I might just have my next fixture rotate the LEDs by one axis instead of two just like my original fixture, due to the fact that the next fixture will be on the ceiling as well, and I don't know if the effect would really be worthwhile when it's projecting from a few feet away. Of course with your fixture being closer to the tank, you can work with many more angles of light entering the water..
 
And for a topic this thread hasn't seen yet:

Can anyone point me toward a good LED that could be used in a small UV sterilizer? This is for a non aquarium related project. I've never had a UV sterilizer, so I don't even know what wavelength they generally operate at...
 
widmer said:
And for a topic this thread hasn't seen yet:

Can anyone point me toward a good LED that could be used in a small UV sterilizer? This is for a non aquarium related project. I've never had a UV sterilizer, so I don't even know what wavelength they generally operate at...
Click to expand...

At this point in time you won't find anything suitable. There are some long wave UVA emitters available (generally in the 395-405nm range) but nothing even approaching the short wave (UVC) end of the spectrum. UV light is harmful to biological tissue at the short wave UVB and UVC ranges but UV sterilisers make use of the UVC range (100-280nm) which is most effective in germicidal and algicidal applications.
 
It is working fine, about 18 inches above the water. But they are mostly flat, most don't have lenses and are running about 500ma. But the few corals I have seem happy. I am waiting for a man made rock to finish soaking and then I am going to arrange my corals and brighten the fixture some.
 
Drivers for large apps: Differences? What have you used? Where do you get yours?

I am having some trouble understanding the differences between the potential drivers for my build. My calculations indicate the need for a minimum 134.4w driver (7Amps X 4 (strings of 12) = 2.8Amps. 48V x 2.8A = 134.4W). A 150w driver would leave me room to run some at .8Amps if desired.

So I was looking on the following Mean Well site to pick and I don't get the differences between the CLG-150, HLG-150, and HLG-150H
http://www.meanwell.com/webnet/search/seriessearch.html

Can someone explain? Thanks.
 
Only diff I can see on the HLG-150 and HLG-150H datasheets are the 'H' series has a higher "Input High". Guess that what 'H' means "High" maybe.
 
Only diff I can see on the HLG-150 and HLG-150H datasheets are the 'H' series has a higher "Input High". Guess that what 'H' means "High" maybe.
 
I remember ready a while back, don't know how long or how many pages ago, about the LED's run on the ELN-60-48D would flash after they were dimmed all the way down and the power turned off. I've looked through probably 100 pages and can't find it. Does anyone know if why this happens and was there a solution? It's happening to me.
 
chris023 said:
My calculations indicate the need for a minimum 134.4w driver (7Amps X 4 (strings of 12) = 2.8Amps. 48V x 2.8A = 134.4W). A 150w driver would leave me room to run some at .8Amps if desired.
[/url]

Can someone explain? Thanks.
Click to expand...
You mixed the characteristics of several models.
To obtain 700mA per string you need this model: HLG-150-54
The output is 2.8A and 54V max. So each string can contain 10 (min) -17 max LEDs.
2.8Amps per string will toast your LEDs.
 
Mike now you have me confused. Assuming they make it an HLG-150-48 would work. A HLG-150-54 might work 54 volts * 2.8 amps is slightly over 151.2 watts. Yes 2.8 is bad, but he already said 4 strings.
 
Leds

Leds

widmer said:
Don't know how I missed this until today, I've been playing with the idea of building something very similar for my next tank. So maybe before building it I'll just ask you how it's working out :lol:

So how is it working out so far? I'm thinking at this point I might just have my next fixture rotate the LEDs by one axis instead of two just like my original fixture, due to the fact that the next fixture will be on the ceiling as well, and I don't know if the effect would really be worthwhile when it's projecting from a few feet away. Of course with your fixture being closer to the tank, you can work with many more angles of light entering the water..
Click to expand...

So i was talken to the Fishman. I REALLY like his setup so, i too, am going to try something simular. The frame for my new fixture is 6` long 18" wide, made of 2" Aluminum flat stock, 1/4 ' thick and weilded. I had each end bent at a 15 degree angle at the 2` mark. I will fabricate 6 of these channels,(since they are approx 18" long anyway), and use 8 leds per channel,( 6 XR-E RB@700MA and 2 MX-L White@1500MA). This will give me a 3:1 mix and 48 leds per section for a total of 144 LEDs. So, by the time i actually do it, a newer LED wil lbe out and i`ll start over whereby i`m functionally DOOMED.:D
 
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GEORGEDOPE said:
I remember ready a while back, don't know how long or how many pages ago, about the LED's run on the ELN-60-48D would flash after they were dimmed all the way down and the power turned off. I've looked through probably 100 pages and can't find it. Does anyone know if why this happens and was there a solution? It's happening to me.
Click to expand...

On my first rig i did a rather poor job soldering some of the LEDs which was causing some of the LEDs to not light up and the "flash" on power down. I noticed one of the frays on one of the wires was touching the heat sink. Once fixed all issues resolved. You might have a short or something somewhere in your soldering job. I would inspect that first, but I am by no means an expert, just an guess.

MosMike said:
You mixed the characteristics of several models.
To obtain 700mA per string you need this model: HLG-150-54
The output is 2.8A and 54V max. So each string can contain 10 (min) -17 max LEDs.
2.8Amps per string will toast your LEDs.
Click to expand...

2.8 amps spread over 4 strings of 12 LEDs being run in parallel is 700ma per string. 4 string of 12 at 48 volts: 48V (driver voltage) / 3.3Vf (froward voltage per LED) = 14.5 LEDs per string (I am going with 12).
Sound right.
 
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GEORGEDOPE said:
I remember ready a while back, don't know how long or how many pages ago, about the LED's run on the ELN-60-48D would flash after they were dimmed all the way down and the power turned off. I've looked through probably 100 pages and can't find it. Does anyone know if why this happens and was there a solution? It's happening to me.
Click to expand...

Turn off the power to the LEDs before dimming them down all of the way.

CJ
 
Would someone be so kind as to check my calculations to make sure I'm on the right track?

I'll be using 72 LEDs (48 XPE RB, 16 XPG CW, 8 XPG NW). I plan on putting all 72 on 1 driver (6 strings of 12). My calculations come out to a required 190 watts at .8amps. Looks like the driver I'll need is the HLG 240-48B.

I'm only interested in dimming for the acclimation period, after that, they will stay at what ever setting makes the corals happy. Would this driver afford me the opportunity to manually dim during the acclimation period?

Assuming I use the necessary fuses, resistors, AND match all strings by Vf as closely as possible, will this be a wise way to go about operating this number of emitters? My other thought would be to use one driver (HLG 150-48B) to run the 48 RBs, and one driver to run the 24 whites (ELN 60-48D). The advantage I see with this is that I could have the blues come on a little earlier than the whites. Could I efficiently run 24 XPGs on a single ELN 60-48D in 2 strings of 12?

Am I on the right track, or am I missing something critical?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEORGEDOPE
I remember ready a while back, don't know how long or how many pages ago, about the LED's run on the ELN-60-48D would flash after they were dimmed all the way down and the power turned off. I've looked through probably 100 pages and can't find it. Does anyone know if why this happens and was there a solution? It's happening to me.

chris023

On my first rig i did a rather poor job soldering some of the LEDs which was causing some of the LEDs to not light up and the "flash" on power down. I noticed one of the frays on one of the wires was touching the heat sink. Once fixed all issues resolved. You might have a short or something somewhere in your soldering job. I would inspect that first, but I am by no means an expert, just an


I used solderless connectors, which was very easy and quick. All of the LEDs light up and dim evenly with the pot's I'm using. So if there was a short wouldn't some of the LED's not light up?

CJO
Turn off the power to the LEDs before dimming them down all of the way.


This will finally be connected to a Profilx and be dimmed at night and then the power turned off to the drivers. I just don't understand the flash of light about 10 seconds after the power is cut.

Here's a couple of pictures of my prototype.
 

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georgedope, i believe this is normal???? i have the same case on mine, both on blue and white. only happens when dimming all the way down. Something like power being stored on capacitors. Nice rig btw.
 
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