DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Is anyone trying to use Mean Well LPC-35-700W for XPG ?
What is min and max number per string if XPG?


I haven't heard of anyone using one of those but there's no reason not to if you can buy them somewhere.

48V is the maximum so how many 3.3V LEDs add up to a number below 48?

9V is the minimum voltage But you better not crowd that so I'd say no less than 4 LEDs.

Note, there is no dimming and no current adjustment. 700mA is what your string will be running at.
 
Argh... I can't decide if I want to drop the $500 for a 36 led fixture or $170 to replace my old t5 bulbs and reflectors... I've been digging up some research that makes me a little hesitant on LED's at the moment...

What's the longest people have been using them while still getting visible growth?
 
Argh... I can't decide if I want to drop the $500 for a 36 led fixture or $170 to replace my old t5 bulbs and reflectors... I've been digging up some research that makes me a little hesitant on LED's at the moment...

What's the longest people have been using them while still getting visible growth?

It sounds like someone is saying that growth stopped or will stop, where did you get that information? I would put the burden of proof on that claim not on people who are seeing growth (it sounds a bit hokey to me). I do know of someone locally who is running a solaris fixture and has been since they were available so that is quite a while.
 
Thanks!
I am using 24 XPG and 24 XPE- Royal Bule on two 23x4.25 heat sinks. Each heat-sink has
12 XPG cool White and 12 XPE - Royal Bule. XPEs are using LPC-35-700. XPG are using 48D but current 48D is out of stock. I am template using LPC_35_700 for XPG until the 48D arrivals.
After I finish the first 24 LEDS on one Heat-sink.
12 XP-G leds are drove at 700MA same as 12 XP-E. After I put it over the tank, The colors look very white and yellow for me. Looks the same XP series, the XP_G has much more output than XP-Es.
 
Thanks!
I am using 24 XPG and 24 XPE- Royal Bule on two 23x4.25 heat sinks. Each heat-sink has
12 XPG cool White and 12 XPE - Royal Bule. XPEs are using LPC-35-700. XPG are using 48D but current 48D is out of stock. I am template using LPC_35_700 for XPG until the 48D arrivals.
After I finish the first 24 LEDS on one Heat-sink.
12 XP-G leds are drove at 700MA same as 12 XP-E. After I put it over the tank, The colors look very white and yellow for me. Looks the same XP series, the XP_G has much more output than XP-Es.

Yes that is why people recommend at least 60:40 ratio of blue to white when using XP-G's.
 
As with any change in lighting, different corals respond differently. I've had a very small number that did poorly under LEDs, but the vast majority thrive. The number that did poorly has been low enough that it could easily be attributable to other causes.

Some change colors, but IMHO that's often a "neutral" change, not a negative one (i.e. I had an acro that changed from pale purple to baby blue. I had a monti that changed from drab orange to dark purple. And so on.)
 
Looking for some feedback on a design
LED count/color mix.
LED placement spread/height.
Drivers - is this the right one? Not sure on the 'H' in HLG-150 vs. HLG-150H. Definitely what dimming capability. Think I need a 'B' type (mentioned by kcress in previous post). Where is a good place to buy the drivers?

LEDs will be mounted on u-channel.
Planned on 60 degree optics. Not sure on a good height above the water, as you can see by the below photo of the tank that I have some coral fairly high up in the tank (current T5 setup). Planning on driving a parallel series setup like kcress advised.

Let me know what you think... thanks.

LEDDesign.jpg


ParallelLEDs.gif


014-1.jpg
 
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Looking for some feedback on a design
LED count/color mix.
LED placement spread/height.
Drivers - is this the right one? Not sure on the 'H' in HLG-150 vs. HLG-150H. Definitely what dimming capability. Think I need a 'B' type (mentioned by kcress in previous post). Where is a good place to buy the drivers?

Planned on 60 degree optics. Not sure on a good height above the water, as you can see by the below photo of the tank that I have some coral fairly high up in the tank (current T5 setup). Planning on driving a parallel series setup like kcress advised.

Let me know what you think... thanks.

LEDDesign.jpg


ParallelLEDs.gif


014-1.jpg

Nice tank, what size is it?
 
Looks pretty good to me.

You might consider doubling the number of U-channels and running twice the LED to LED spacing. Otherwise pay attention to forced air cooling aspects. You might not need it but don't paint yourself into a corner where it would be hard to add.
 
Actually I wouldn't add more channels and increase LED to LED spacing and have 2" Row to Row. It might end in a spot light party just trying to cover more the footprint. But that's just me... Obviously it will depend on optics and lamp height from water surface
 
Sammy if you visualize kcress' suggestion, the LEDs are effectively the same distance from each other, there's just more heatsinking surface area.
 
Very true. My bad. Instead of having four lines 4" apart horizontally it will look more like vertical alignment of the LEDs in a horizontal channel right? Don't know if that makes sense, my english most of the time fails :lol:
 
Looks pretty good to me.

You might consider doubling the number of U-channels and running twice the LED to LED spacing. Otherwise pay attention to forced air cooling aspects. You might not need it but don't paint yourself into a corner where it would be hard to add.

I'm working on a similar design and have planned just that; more 'U' channel. I am, also, planning to use the new XM-L LED, which will give considerably more light. I hope to find an optic with a 70°-90° angle, as the spacing will need to be considerably wider, due to the increased intensity. This new serie from LED may well prove to be most efficient between 1500mA - 2000mA, which will increase the light level well beyond what we have yet experienced. New ratios between white and blue will need to be considered. Possibly 3 or 4 to one!

While on this topic, does anyone know if Cree plans other colours for the XM-L series? I recently saw a science report on royal blue spectrum becoming a new application for fresh fruit preservation. Apparently, most of the typical molds responsible for short shelf-life do not grow under 450nm light! Interesting.
 
This new serie from LED may well prove to be most efficient between 1500mA - 2000mA, which will increase the light level well beyond what we have yet experienced.

All LEDs are more efficient at lower currents - even the mighty XM-L will produce more light per watt consumed at 350mA than at 1500 - 2000mA. Of course, that doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't run it in that range, but calling that range the "most efficient" is misleading. Depending on your criteria, it might be the optimal range, but it isn't the most efficient.
 
All LEDs are more efficient at lower currents - even the mighty XM-L will produce more light per watt consumed at 350mA than at 1500 - 2000mA. Of course, that doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't run it in that range, but calling that range the "most efficient" is misleading. Depending on your criteria, it might be the optimal range, but it isn't the most efficient.

Take a look at the curve! It is almost a straight line. Their efficiency is considerably higher than previous classes and from what I can read, its efficiency really starts at 750mA. Under this they appear to be less efficient. Check it out, maybe I'm misreading something.
 
Optimal range is really what your corals like. Which brings up a question that will probably spark lots of discussion. I have read of numerous people that had to turn the LEDs down because it was too much light for the coral. Then they slowly increase the level over the next few months. So is this a good idea?

If the corals don't need the light (they were happy before) why waste the electricity? do they grow faster?
Will the make propagating to others harder? They may not have enough light for what your corals have become accustomed to.
Does it make acclimating new corals harder since they are used to less light?

Is this the right place for this discussion? I will start a new thread if deemed appropriate.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
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