kcress
New member
Why recommend ELNs? Twelve ELNs are unacceptable!
It needs to be done some other way. Either figure out how to do it with 2 strings per ELN (6 total), or use PFC drivers, or use the DIY controllers.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
Why recommend ELNs? Twelve ELNs are unacceptable!
It needs to be done some other way. Either figure out how to do it with 2 strings per ELN (6 total), or use PFC drivers, or use the DIY controllers.
TheFishMan65
New member
kcress, pleae correct me I am wrong. I thought the problem was turning them all on at the same time. I figured since these would be turned on at different times it would be alright. Does PFC make that much difference?
S2minute, well from what kcress says it limits your options. I would still consider running the whites off of 3 ELN and the blues off of the HLGs. kcress does that work?
S2minute, well from what kcress says it limits your options. I would still consider running the whites off of 3 ELN and the blues off of the HLGs. kcress does that work?
S2minute
New member
Light Fixture
Light Fixture
12 ELNs does not sound good however, producing the effect i would like to see will stagger the times they fade up and down still, I think i`d rather stay away from large #s of ELNs.
I may have read this somewhere but, say if i made each section independent, multipal DIY controllers could run different strings off the same driver? Man , i think i`m making this deeper than it should lol. It`s to bad i don`t know of a like central controller that could tell each driver, "ok, driver 1 start fading up your 1st of 8 strings and, it`ll do it gradually till it gets to the max you set it for. Then fade up the next string on the driver...as the sun progresses through the day. Yeah, i know, that`s prob a pipe dream but, hey if i had the knowlege to make one do just that, i`d jump on it.
WILLE any input to post #6046? Or anyone for that matter hehe :rollface:
I just got home from work and i`m fried. Not thinking clearly atm. I have this gut feeling that the amount of LEDs i`m using per section and the type will make for a very good blend. I just have to get my ducks in a row with the right type of drivers before i do that group order.
Light Fixture
12 ELNs does not sound good however, producing the effect i would like to see will stagger the times they fade up and down still, I think i`d rather stay away from large #s of ELNs.
I may have read this somewhere but, say if i made each section independent, multipal DIY controllers could run different strings off the same driver? Man , i think i`m making this deeper than it should lol. It`s to bad i don`t know of a like central controller that could tell each driver, "ok, driver 1 start fading up your 1st of 8 strings and, it`ll do it gradually till it gets to the max you set it for. Then fade up the next string on the driver...as the sun progresses through the day. Yeah, i know, that`s prob a pipe dream but, hey if i had the knowlege to make one do just that, i`d jump on it.
WILLE any input to post #6046? Or anyone for that matter hehe :rollface:
I just got home from work and i`m fried. Not thinking clearly atm. I have this gut feeling that the amount of LEDs i`m using per section and the type will make for a very good blend. I just have to get my ducks in a row with the right type of drivers before i do that group order.
TheFishMan65
New member
You could do that with multiple Typhoons. Only hard part would be keeping them sychonized. Have one start at 8:00 and start ramping up 4 strings. Then have the second start at 8:15 (or whatever) and ramp the next 4 strings. Etc. There is probably an open input/output that you could probably syncronize them with.
If you are set on East to West. This is what I would do. Build three identical fixtures. Save the driver money and use the CAT4101s. The drive 6 LEDs each. So have 8 strings of 6. Then place 3 typhoons in each fixture. Have them run the exact same program with a 15-30 minute offset in times,
If you are set on East to West. This is what I would do. Build three identical fixtures. Save the driver money and use the CAT4101s. The drive 6 LEDs each. So have 8 strings of 6. Then place 3 typhoons in each fixture. Have them run the exact same program with a 15-30 minute offset in times,
kcress
New member
No not at all. That is only an occasionally tripped breaker.
It's the harmonics. All of them sucking in tiny gulps at the same time. Death by a thousand bites.
S2minute; I haven't been closely following this thread but if you want a bazillion strings all independently controlled the DIY drivers and one or two large PFC power supplies to power it all would be the most reasonable setup.
An alternative to your madness would be to break your setup into three identical large-ish fixtures. Go to the effort of testing and arriving at the correct mix so you don't need to separate the colors on their own drivers. That's pretty crazy anyway since once you have the color the way you want it you shouldn't be jerking with it anyway for your tank's sake. Plus doing it with separate drivers is really inefficient since you will end up turning one color down some amount forever.
Anyway with matched percentages running on say three HLGs you would then need to only run the dimming sequence across three. One end comes on, then gets brighter, and brighter, then the middle comes on, and does the same thing staggered, then the other side. It's all setup to have them all on fully for 2 or 3 hours around noon then the first starts dimming followed by the middle.. etc etc.
I believe that would be more than adequate to provide a very respectable daily isolation pattern and look. The sun is not going to be a narrow line of light traversing across like a Xerox machine. mwahaahahaha.
Last edited:
kcress
New member
Yes three.
XMLs.. All I can say is if they are going to dramatically raise the cost of the project by costing more AND requiring additional drivers they may be the wrong choice for the build.
Most builds wouldn't require separate dimming of three different zones. If you then need to run LEDs with a bunch of different current needs you end up needing a larger driver count.
For a design whose main purpose is simulated motion, I'd try to focus on getting that done reasonably with the fewest drivers. Since that will be the most cost effective result.
XMLs.. All I can say is if they are going to dramatically raise the cost of the project by costing more AND requiring additional drivers they may be the wrong choice for the build.
Most builds wouldn't require separate dimming of three different zones. If you then need to run LEDs with a bunch of different current needs you end up needing a larger driver count.
For a design whose main purpose is simulated motion, I'd try to focus on getting that done reasonably with the fewest drivers. Since that will be the most cost effective result.
TheFishMan65
New member
I just talked with Jill at CDIWEB.com. She told me that the HLG-185-48D are obsolete. They are being replaced with the H version. The H version is the high input voltage version. IIRC rather than being 90-240 it is 90-310. So those of you planning on using this may need to look for the new version. PS they have none in stock, but they will be $90.82.
I just ordered some ELN-60-48D for about $26. Shipping is estimated at $6.00.
Even with shipping one is cheaper then most of the sources I have seen posted here ($34).
The catch is they don't regularly stock them, but apparently one of you guys has called, because she remembered talking to you. It sound like they would be willing to stock them if there is enough interest. So guys make some calls, get some orders in. This can save everyone a few dollars. CDIWEB's number is 1-800-777-7334.
I just ordered some ELN-60-48D for about $26. Shipping is estimated at $6.00.
Even with shipping one is cheaper then most of the sources I have seen posted here ($34).
The catch is they don't regularly stock them, but apparently one of you guys has called, because she remembered talking to you. It sound like they would be willing to stock them if there is enough interest. So guys make some calls, get some orders in. This can save everyone a few dollars. CDIWEB's number is 1-800-777-7334.
I spoke with Jill last week to inquire on hlg18536b. I happen to ask if she had alot of requests but to my suprise she said no. Ill have those drivers by the end of the month. Very helpful people there.
TheFishMan65
New member
Just curios as to why the 36 rather than the 48. Seems like it will require shorter strings.
Im doing 6 strings of 9 so your correct in your assumption. Three fixtures of 36 leds on each 18blue 18white.
TheFishMan65
New member
I remember his post. I forgot the reason. I thought it was just something we did not need and likely to cost more.
hey, i must say that this diy led thread has gotten me thinking about redoing my lighting. i just have one question, im planning on a 36 LED on 3 seperate heatsinks, and 2 t5 with a Fiji purple and an aqua blue special or something like that. do u think 36 LEDs would be enough for my 75 gal tank, its a standard 75 gal, it only has LPS, shrooms no SPS thanks
kcress
New member
Yeah! What? Oh.
The "H" version is just to allow someone to run the drivers on commercial 3 phase power of an industrial voltage. It generally comes at a slightly higher cost because they have to use higher voltage semiconductors and capacitors in their construction. We don't need this. But. If that's all that's available go right ahead and use it. It's not bad. It's actually a teeny bit heavier duty. They've obviously decided the hassle of two different build recipes aren't worth it to them. They can pay a little more for parts while saving production costs.
TheFishMan65
New member
I think it was th higher wattage HLG that don't dim will.
I've got a string of 11 Cree LED's running on a Meanwell LPC-35-700. The string has been running for about 6 months just fine. I just noticed today that the 3 LED's in the middle are very dim, barely glowing, but the 4 before and the 4 after appear fine and glowing brightly. They are mounted on aluminum channel with active fan cooling. The aluminum is barely even warm to the touch when LED's are on. Any suggestions on what to check?
TheFishMan65
New member
Look for a hairline wire going to the heat sink. Check each pad to heatsink with your meter and make sure there is not contact. What is the voltage of the LPC. For 11 LEDs it should be around 33 probably higher depending on the model. If it reads closer to 24 then they are shorted. If near 33 then they may have gone bad.
- Status
