TheFishMan65
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I remember his post. I forgot the reason. I thought it was just something we did not need and likely to cost more.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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hey, i must say that this diy led thread has gotten me thinking about redoing my lighting. i just have one question, im planning on a 36 LED on 3 seperate heatsinks, and 2 t5 with a Fiji purple and an aqua blue special or something like that. do u think 36 LEDs would be enough for my 75 gal tank, its a standard 75 gal, it only has LPS, shrooms no SPS thanks
kcress
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Yeah! What? Oh.
The "H" version is just to allow someone to run the drivers on commercial 3 phase power of an industrial voltage. It generally comes at a slightly higher cost because they have to use higher voltage semiconductors and capacitors in their construction. We don't need this. But. If that's all that's available go right ahead and use it. It's not bad. It's actually a teeny bit heavier duty. They've obviously decided the hassle of two different build recipes aren't worth it to them. They can pay a little more for parts while saving production costs.
TheFishMan65
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I think it was th higher wattage HLG that don't dim will.
I've got a string of 11 Cree LED's running on a Meanwell LPC-35-700. The string has been running for about 6 months just fine. I just noticed today that the 3 LED's in the middle are very dim, barely glowing, but the 4 before and the 4 after appear fine and glowing brightly. They are mounted on aluminum channel with active fan cooling. The aluminum is barely even warm to the touch when LED's are on. Any suggestions on what to check?
TheFishMan65
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Look for a hairline wire going to the heat sink. Check each pad to heatsink with your meter and make sure there is not contact. What is the voltage of the LPC. For 11 LEDs it should be around 33 probably higher depending on the model. If it reads closer to 24 then they are shorted. If near 33 then they may have gone bad.
Thanks. I think I found a short in 2 places. I changed the mounting of the bar last week and must have disturbed something in the process. I guess I didn't expect the other LED's to work if one was shorted to the heatsink.
TheFishMan65
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You probably had 2 shorted so the three LEDs got bypassed. You got one so the short is broken, but I expect there was/is another.
IIRC the Typhoon only does PWM. What is your driver? The ELN D will work with a PWM. Chec k the Typhoon Thread (I think) someone just posted the values to use for 10% changes in dimming.
IIRC the Typhoon only does PWM. What is your driver? The ELN D will work with a PWM. Chec k the Typhoon Thread (I think) someone just posted the values to use for 10% changes in dimming.
Great Thread here! I just swapped out all of my VHO super actinics over my 450g reef to RB Crees, a DIY job for sure. I was not as interested in PAR with the blue, it was more just for the actinic pop. I added 96 of them over the tank, and the results were awesome. Now I am considering going and swapping out the 250watt halides for white/blue LED's. I read through many pages of the thread, and can't seem to find if there is PAR data for these CREE LED's...I realize the combination of lenses and drivers can change PAR, so I am looking for a general starting point to try and get similar PAR to a depth of 30" that I get with my 12k reeflux halides. Any PAR data will help! Thanks!
katchupoy
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Try reading Taqpol's build... Par readings start at page 3
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1826521
Santokis' Build...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1761942
Soundwave's Build (which is the very beginning of this thread)
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587273
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Has anyone seen the latest module from Profilux for controlling LED's? They have one they call Active and one that is passive.
If I see it correctly, does the active version allow me to run via drivers built into the module? How do I tell how many can be run...I know it says 3 Amps per channel with 4 channels.
Apparently this is to allow the DIY LED lamps to have the fancy lighting effects of those provided by some of the manufactured systems.
If I see it correctly, does the active version allow me to run via drivers built into the module? How do I tell how many can be run...I know it says 3 Amps per channel with 4 channels.
Apparently this is to allow the DIY LED lamps to have the fancy lighting effects of those provided by some of the manufactured systems.
lpsouth1978
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I have read basically every page of this thread and have to say I find it facinating. I have already attempted one DIY LED Setup for one of my pico tanks. It worked well and I am now looking to finish a larger setup, but need a little help. I have already soldered all of the LED's, screwed them onto the heatsink, and built the light and stand. All I need now is power. Originaly, I was going to use two seperate power supplies, one for the whites and one for the blues. I am now looking to add nighttime LED's to the mix and do not want a third power supply. Will a 24W 6A power supply power all of the whites and blues, or do I need to stick with the seperate 2.5A power supplies I already have? I am running 12 Cree XRE Cool white, 6 Cree XRE Royal Blue, and 6 Cree XPE Royal Blue. All are using 1000mA Buck Puck's with pot. I know that the amps are good, but I am not understanding the voltage forward concept. Any help is appreciated.
TheFishMan65
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One power supply will work. The pucks may get warm so make sure they are properly cooled.
TheFishMan65
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mseepman, Sorry my eyes are going. Do you have a link?
nuclearheli
Member
I will be using my Neptune Apex when my LED build is complete. They have programming functions to manipulate your 0 - 10 Volt output. Basically they use a ramp technique. You specify the start time, the end time and the intensity (start and finish if I am not mistaken), then it ramps the signal to meet your requirements.
Have not tried it but that's what they say.
Garage1217
GET OFF MY LAWN
Correct, the apex works that way. I have been testing mine / prior to my build completion to make sure it is stable and all is working fine. You can actually do quite a bit with it, even weather but takes a little bit of annoying, but simple programming.
nuclearheli
Member
Excellent, thanks for the information. I have been counting on it working. Been a few times while I build this LED for my 210g that I wondered if that thing was going to work. Perhaps when the time comes you might share your experiences and programming with me.
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