This means that they don't care about their customers. When I was shopping for CWs I asked several suppliers which bins they had in stock and picked the best one. Of course the pleasure of selecting the exact bin costs $$$.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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You mean I should have put a resistor in the string ?Mike you must be like me and build before we knew/thought about the 1 ohm resistors, but hey congratulations on being the first real life example,
Well, that Noname driver was promising - 20-30W output, dimmable with a pot already installed! So I didn't need an external power supply for this driver.
Maybe this efficiency problem is due to the fact that I run this driver below the "top efficiency band"
spamreefnew
New member
spamreefnew
New member
alright!! IT WORKED!!! ok that's an older pic I will update soon as I made some changes to the fixture and tank.
IT WORKED!!! ok that's an older pic I will update soon as I made some changes to the fixture and tank.
TheFishMan65
New member
Any comments on this driver. Is now being sold at NT for $37. 15 LEDs and active power factor correction. The 40 watt version.
Thomas Research Products
Thomas Research Products
TheFishMan65
New member
I just noticed that you would need a pot for each one or a separate 10v supply.
widmer
Drug Enthusiast
Anyone seen this yet?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8Ucbqh6GhY&feature=player_embedded#
Who knew Cree was into doing adorable homemade commercials?
Kind of interesting though at 1:14 where it shows they are using "remote phosphors" - sounds quite a bit like the way an fluorescent is made. When they roll out an affordable bulb where you can adjust the exact warmness/coolness, they will probably take over the world.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8Ucbqh6GhY&feature=player_embedded#
Who knew Cree was into doing adorable homemade commercials?
Kind of interesting though at 1:14 where it shows they are using "remote phosphors" - sounds quite a bit like the way an fluorescent is made. When they roll out an affordable bulb where you can adjust the exact warmness/coolness, they will probably take over the world.
Available long ago in the shape of RGB bulbs with remote control.
It would be more interesting to see LEDs with narrower angles, so no optics would be required.
widmer
Drug Enthusiast
MosMike are you telling me that while me and the rest of the world has been using compact fluorescents, we have for a long time had the option of picking up an affordable and reasonably bright bulb to put in our table lamps that allows us to adjust the exact warmness/coolness?
Link please. :lol:
Link please. :lol:
cato
New England
Any pics of your unit? Your LED unit that is.
BTW just spent 2 days going through this thread from beginning to end. My head aches lol.
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http://www.dealextreme.com/p/e27-60...ir-remote-control-light-bulb-ac-85-265v-42285
I use it as a night light in the bedroom
Several bulbs can be controlled by 1 remote.
For a car it's better to use an RGB flexible string - they run from 12V.
Did anyone encounter dimming pots with wire leads ?
Edit: found such stuff!
http://www.surplussales.com/potentiometers/WireLead/WireLead-2.html
(RCV) 3250L-C10-103
Wire lead, multi-turn, trimpot. 10k ohm, 1w, 5%. Surface mount, side adjust, 25 turn. 1/2" x 1/2" x 0.2". Made by Bourns.
Should be excellent stuff!
S2minute
New member
Led Fixture
Led Fixture
Ok Fishman! I have all the U channels cut All i have to do is cut the HS sections to 2" each and smooth the edges. BOY that`s alot of cuttung! lol. If you don`t mind, i have some questions.
I`ve been figuring a new layout for each of the 3 sections over my tank. Each section will have this:
48 LEDS total
36 will be XP-E RB Group 16
8 will be XP-G White,(4 OW R4 bins 3A and 3D), (4NW R3 bins3C and 4B)
4 will be XM-L cool white @1500MA
Now since the XM-Ls will run @ 1500MA for a total of 12 over the entire tank, i`ll have to run them on their own HLG-B driver.
The XP-Gs since thy have a max MA of 1500, i can either drive them at 700MA and run them with the rest of the RBs OR drive them @ 1000MA in which case i`d have to run all 24 over the entire tank with ITs own HLG-B.
Then i`d have to run the 108 RB XP-Es @ 700MA on it`s own HLG-B as well.
SO, that route would leave me with 3 HLG-B drivers, which is good BUT,
do you think it be better to run each of the 3 sections independent of the other,(each with their own sets of drivers)?.
Should i run the XP-Gs and XP-Es all @ 700MA and run them on the same driver?
I`m not to concerned about dimming seperate colors to get an effect. I hope to do that with the ratio i`m working with. I DO however want to sim that sunrise/sunset and lunar cycle in my tank. I also whould like it to be as realistic as possible. My tank already is east/west orientation. What i`d like to see is that gradual fade UP of the LEDS from east/west just like the sun as it progresses throughtout the day as well as the moon.
Now, with the amount and type of LEDS i mentioned above, how would i best be able to do this while haveing the most efficiency?
Led Fixture
Ok Fishman! I have all the U channels cut
All i have to do is cut the HS sections to 2" each and smooth the edges. BOY that`s alot of cuttung! lol. If you don`t mind, i have some questions.I`ve been figuring a new layout for each of the 3 sections over my tank. Each section will have this:
48 LEDS total
36 will be XP-E RB Group 16
8 will be XP-G White,(4 OW R4 bins 3A and 3D), (4NW R3 bins3C and 4B)
4 will be XM-L cool white @1500MA
Now since the XM-Ls will run @ 1500MA for a total of 12 over the entire tank, i`ll have to run them on their own HLG-B driver.
The XP-Gs since thy have a max MA of 1500, i can either drive them at 700MA and run them with the rest of the RBs OR drive them @ 1000MA in which case i`d have to run all 24 over the entire tank with ITs own HLG-B.
Then i`d have to run the 108 RB XP-Es @ 700MA on it`s own HLG-B as well.
SO, that route would leave me with 3 HLG-B drivers, which is good BUT,
do you think it be better to run each of the 3 sections independent of the other,(each with their own sets of drivers)?.
Should i run the XP-Gs and XP-Es all @ 700MA and run them on the same driver?
I`m not to concerned about dimming seperate colors to get an effect. I hope to do that with the ratio i`m working with. I DO however want to sim that sunrise/sunset and lunar cycle in my tank. I also whould like it to be as realistic as possible. My tank already is east/west orientation. What i`d like to see is that gradual fade UP of the LEDS from east/west just like the sun as it progresses throughtout the day as well as the moon.
Now, with the amount and type of LEDS i mentioned above, how would i best be able to do this while haveing the most efficiency?
TheFishMan65
New member
Well for 144 LEDs you could do 12 string of ELN and have dimming at a very fine level, BUT what are you going to drive these with? IMHO East to West may look cool, but the fish and coral won't care - so how often will you be home to see it? I think the driver is the bigger issue.
I think I would drvie the XMLs with and ELN at 1.3 amps. I believe the HLG are $00+, but he LN are $34 or less. Maybe with the lower voltage you might even be able to driver 13-14 with the ELN (note 2 LEDs are cheaper than the driver difference).
XP-G same thng use 2 ELN rather than one HLG.
No if you controller has the output. Maybe do an east to west with the RBs. I believe Typhoon has 4 signals so Whites, East, Central, and West. If you have more control lines then sure use ELN and have finer control.
Another thought would be to use the CAT4101 driver. Since it drives 6 LEDs you would have even finer control. It will also be cheaper than HLG and ELNs.
I think I would drvie the XMLs with and ELN at 1.3 amps. I believe the HLG are $00+, but he LN are $34 or less. Maybe with the lower voltage you might even be able to driver 13-14 with the ELN (note 2 LEDs are cheaper than the driver difference).
XP-G same thng use 2 ELN rather than one HLG.
No if you controller has the output. Maybe do an east to west with the RBs. I believe Typhoon has 4 signals so Whites, East, Central, and West. If you have more control lines then sure use ELN and have finer control.
Another thought would be to use the CAT4101 driver. Since it drives 6 LEDs you would have even finer control. It will also be cheaper than HLG and ELNs.
TheFishMan65
New member
I forgot to mention. Another choice is to make 3 seperate fixture each with its own controller. Which maybe another way to do east to west.
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