DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Measure the voltage of just the string and the current of the string.
I measured the voltage - 33.7V, (the wires are solderes, so I can't measure

current) so the LEDs consume 23W
The Kill-a-watt shows 44W
So this NoName driver efficiency is 52% !
 
Thanks kcress, I couldn't remember the catches for measuring AC power.

Mike you must be like me and build before we knew/thought about the 1 ohm resistors, but hey congratulations on being the first real life example :),

Sure sound like you want a new driver.
 
FYI: My 50/50 mix of RB&CW XPG&XRE are still going strong after a month and corals and colors all look great so far. hope this helps some skeptics out there:)
 
Ddecker...
skim here if you want to see a variations of different LEDs being used, specially on the last part of the thread. It might give you some ideas.

Also like other have noted, you can mix and match it in one string but will loose the control of white against blue. But what others did was add another string of blue. So 2 string will be mixed and the 3rd will be all blue, to make the dusk and dawn effect.

With Rapidleds CWs, they told me before, they dont have control of what BIN they receive from supplier with regards to LEDs. My CWs from them were a little on the 5k or even lower, and not 6.5K.

Spamreefnew...
You finally did it. Do you have a build thread? or can you show us a pic of your rig and tank? awesome...
 
sq 110 sunlight with any cheap meter works great i have had mine for 3 years.
Advanced aquarist has done some great work a while back on sensors.
The sunlight was very good with all of the MH they tested them with the spectrum of leds are the same as alot of mh so i would get the sunlight.
If you have a very blue setup it is about 5 percent low which is easy to adjust for.
 
I would LOVE to post pics but I can't for the life of me figure out how to re-size them :( If someone could send me a pm with step by step instructions that would be great.

fujifilm camera w/h sd card HP computer
 
With Rapidleds CWs, they told me before, they dont have control of what BIN they receive from supplier with regards to LEDs.
This means that they don't care about their customers. When I was shopping for CWs I asked several suppliers which bins they had in stock and picked the best one. Of course the pleasure of selecting the exact bin costs $$$.
 
Mike you must be like me and build before we knew/thought about the 1 ohm resistors, but hey congratulations on being the first real life example :),
You mean I should have put a resistor in the string ?
Well, that Noname driver was promising - 20-30W output, dimmable with a pot already installed! So I didn't need an external power supply for this driver.
Maybe this efficiency problem is due to the fact that I run this driver below the "top efficiency band"
 
I would always put in a resistor so I can check the exact string current anytime I want to and with the string hot and running steady state.

What's the name of this 'no-name' driver. Or is there really no label on it anywhere?
 
ok lets try a pic
 

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When they roll out an affordable bulb where you can adjust the exact warmness/coolness, they will probably take over the world.
Available long ago in the shape of RGB bulbs with remote control.

It would be more interesting to see LEDs with narrower angles, so no optics would be required.
 
MosMike are you telling me that while me and the rest of the world has been using compact fluorescents, we have for a long time had the option of picking up an affordable and reasonably bright bulb to put in our table lamps that allows us to adjust the exact warmness/coolness?

Link please. :lol:
 
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